Getting the right hot tub vacuum for your spa isn’t about the price alone. It’s also about the power source, whether it’s cordless, and attachment and nozzle options. With those things in mind, we recommend the following hot tub vacuums:

• Pool Blaster Cordless Spa Vacuum (Battery Powered)
• Aura Spa Vacuum (Siphon Powered)
• Intex Handheld Vacuum (Rechargeable Batteries)

Keep reading to learn more about each type of vacuum and what to consider when looking for the right spa vacuum for your hot tub.

Best Hot Tub Vacuums

We find that the most convenient way to vacuum a hot tub is with a cordless vacuum, like the ones listed below. Here are three great options for battery-powered, rechargeable, and manual siphon-powered vacuums.

Best Battery-Powered Vacuum: Water Tech Pool Blaster Cordless Spa Vacuum

POOL BLASTER Cordless Spa Vacuum (Battery-Powered)

This battery-operated hot tub vacuum is powerful enough to capture and trap debris and dirt missed by other manual vacuums. It's designed to run up to 3 hours and is powered by five D-cell batteries. Powerful enough for smaller pools.

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Water Tech’s Pool Blaster handheld vacuum makes short work of cleaning your pool or hot tub. This versatile device can clean up leaves, dirt, and debris from your pool or hot tub in a snap. And the Pool Blaster is extremely easy to use. Just aim the powerful suction head at the dirt and debris you want to suck up and watch it disappear. The large capacity bag means you can clean your pool or hot tub without having to stop and empty it constantly.

This vacuum is the perfect solution if you’re looking for an easy way to keep your pool or hot tub clean. Because it’s so quick and efficient, it’s our top pick for functionality and will save you hours of tedious scrubbing. However, keep in mind that it’s the heaviest unit and you’ll need to replace the D batteries often. You can use rechargeable D batteries if you don’t want to keep buying and replacing them.

Best Siphon-Powered Vacuum: Aura 6250 Spa Vacuum

Aura Spa Vacuum (Siphon Powered)

$79.99

This simple spa vacuum utilizes a simple siphon action to remove dirt and debris from your spa. No pumping, no batteries, and no water hook-up are required.

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01/27/2023 07:02 pm GMT

The Aura 6250 Paradise Power Spa Vacuum is specifically designed to clean hot tubs and does not need a power source to operate. Instead, this spa vacuum uses siphon power to pick up dirt and debris. No batteries are required! And there’s zero setup.
But because it’s not powered by any batteries or electricity, it can take longer to work, and it’s the least powerful option on the list.

By the way, if you need more help keeping your hot tub clean, check out our Hot Tub Care Video Course!

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Best Rechargeable Vacuum: Intex PureSpa Handheld Vacuum

Intex Handheld Rechargeable Spa and Pool Vacuum

This vacuum's rechargeable batteries provide ongoing, powerful suction capability. Suitable for use with most hot tubs and above-ground pools up to 18 feet in diameter.

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This Intex Handheld Spa and Pool Vacuum is specifically designed for use with inflatable hot tubs and smaller above-ground pools. It has a three-foot-long detachable hose and a reusable debris bag. This vacuum also has an attachment for cleaning spa jets.

It’s also rechargeable, saving you from constantly replacing batteries in your vacuum. But the Intex PureSpa works best on small debris. So if you have larger pieces of debris in your pool or hot tub, you may want to consider a different option.

How to Choose the Best Hot Tub Vacuum for You

Portability and power all play a part in buying the right hot tub vacuum. But you’ll also want to make sure there are enough brush attachments and nozzle options to clean every crevice of your hot tub. Here’s what to consider when buying a spa vacuum:

1. Power Source

You can choose between battery-powered, siphoning, manual power (siphoning or pumping), or pressurized water from a garden hose. If you want longer run times and don’t want to wait for a lithium battery-powered vacuum to recharge, you might prefer a manual pump, siphon, or water pressure-powered option.

2. Corded vs. Cordless

If you have a small tub, a cordless vacuum is best because it doesn’t have to cover a large area and has enough power to pick up small pieces of debris. But, if you have a bigger hot tub, you might need something more powerful to pick up larger pieces of debris.

The size of the debris is also a factor to consider when choosing a vacuum. If the debris is small like sand, dirt, or small pebbles, then a cordless handheld vacuum will be able to pick it up easily. However, you’ll need a corded vacuum with more suction power if dealing with larger debris like leaves, plants, and insects.

3. Telescoping Pole

Getting a hot tub vacuum that comes with a telescoping pole or multi-section pole makes it easier to use. The aluminum pole makes it easier to reach tough places in the spa, like corners and steps. If you already have a manual pool vacuum cleaner for your swimming pool, you might already have a pole.

4. Brush Attachments

A good spa vacuum should not only have strong suction to pull in the debris but also a brush set for scrubbing surfaces. An extra brush that slides on to your spa vac or a brush that is permanently attached to the vacuum head can be helpful.

5. Sponge Included

A sponge can help a vacuum cleaner to remove thick liquid substances from surfaces such as walls. This can be useful for taking out things like lotion residue which may be stuck on the tub’s walls. This isn’t a universal feature, but if you find one that includes a sponge, it may be worth considering.

6. Nozzle Variety

Different types of nozzles are designed to collect various kinds of debris. Having more nozzles gives you more options for cleaning up different messes. Some desirable nozzle types include those designed for spot cleaning and for cleaning in tight corners. More nozzles mean more flexibility in cleaning ability.

7. Filtration System

Spa vacuums come with different filtration systems, and the size of the filter bag is an important factor to consider. A larger filter bag means you won’t have to empty it as often. Microfilters are especially effective at trapping dirt and debris. If you have many people using your spa regularly, choosing a vacuum with a good filtration system is important.

8. Warranty

Most spa vacuums from reputable brands come with a one- or two-year warranty. But check your protection options before you make a vacuum purchase, especially when purchasing from third party sites like Amazon.

How to Keep Your Hot Tub Clean

Using a spa vacuum cleaner is important to keep things clean, but it’s not the only thing you should do. To make things easier:

• Rinse off quickly before getting in. Lotions, cosmetics, and oils on our skin can disrupt your hot tub’s water chemistry. And it’s easy to bring dirt, grass, stones, and debris into the water on the soles of our feet.
• Keep it covered. When the hot tub isn’t in use, keep your cover on to prevent debris from falling into the water.
• Clean your filter. If you use your spa regularly, rinse off your filter once a week with a garden hose or a hot tub filter cleaner. And replace the filter cartridge if it’s become too dirty.
• Clean your surfaces. Use a hot tub cleaner or diluted white vinegar to remove any scum build-up on the surface or water line of your hot tub.
• Drain and clean your hot tub every 3 months. This helps remove any biofilm buildup in your pipes. For more help, check out our guide on How to Drain and Clean a Hot Tub.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hot Tub Vacuums

Need more help with hot tub vacuums? Here are some common questions and answers.

What is the best way to vacuum a hot tub?

The best way to vacuum a hot tub is to start with a clean floor attachment and then use short bursts with the brush roll on high. This will remove any dirt and debris that may be stuck in the crevices of the tub. If you want to thoroughly clean the inside of the tub, you’ll need to drain and clean your spa. And the hot tub surfaces should be cleaned using a damp microfiber cloth.

Do you need a vacuum for a hot tub?

Yes, you will need a vacuum for a hot tub to pick up small debris like dirt or sand. The vacuum can also help circulate the water, which can help keep the water clean and free of any build-up.

What’s the best vacuum to clean the bottom of a hot tub?

A handheld spa vacuum is a great choice for small jobs and most debris found in hot tubs. It’s also great for cleaning the bottom of your hot tub, as it will be much more portable than a powered vacuum.

Another great choice for cleaning the bottom of your hot tub is a cordless vacuum cleaner. It’s much easier to move around than a power vac, and you won’t have to worry about turning it on and off.

Finally, a corded vacuum cleaner is the last option for cleaning the bottom of your hot tub. This is the most powerful type and is best for large spaces.

Is there a vacuum for a Swim Spa or Jacuzzi?

Yes, most hot tub vacuums can be used with swim spas or jacuzzi-brand hot tubs. A battery-operated, handheld vacuum is the best option. But check your manufacturer’s warranty before using.

Can I use a hot tub vacuum in my pool?

Many battery-powered, cordless, handheld pool vacuums can be used in hot tubs as well. And spa-specific vacuums can be used in most inflatable small pools or smaller above ground swimming pools. But they’re likely not powerful enough for inground pools. Look for a pool-spa combo vacuum made for both hot tubs and swimming pools.

Need More Hot Tub Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Hot Tub Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep your hot tub clean and clear.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials about hot tub care.
• Check out our Hot Tub Video Course. You’ll get step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about hot tub maintenance.

The post Best Hot Tub Vacuums and How to Use Them appeared first on Swim University®.

We’re not talking cup holders and cute bathing suits. We mean the hot tub supplies that will help you take the best possible care of your hot tub, from the water, to the shell, to the (spoiler alert!) cover. If not, there’s no time like the present to stock up.

Hot Tub Supplies: More Than Just Chemicals

Of course you have a full complement of spa chemicals on hand to keep your hot tub water clean, clear, and sanitary. But it takes a lot more than that to keep your spa clean and running smoothly.

Suck It Up!

You know you need to drain and clean your hot tub at least once a quarter. But what about those times when debris falls into your spa, but it’s not enough to warrant a full deep clean?

That’s when it’s time to break out the spa vacuum. Use it to pick up sand, leaves, or whatever else might’ve made its way into the water, and save yourself a lot of work and time.

GAME 4855 Manual Pool and Spa Pump Action Vacuum

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Cover It Up!

If you’re leaving your hot tub uncovered when you’re not using it, you’re losing four important things. First, water, chemicals, and heat, all of which disappear through evaporation. And those three losses add up to the fourth: money.

Keep the first three things in your hot tub, and the fourth one in your wallet, by using a hot tub cover. It has other benefits, too, like keeping things out of your spa that don’t belong there, and keeping you from having to wait for the water to heat up before a soak.

MySpaCover Hot Tub Cover, Fits Any Shape Any Size Up To 96" - 5-inch taper

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Lift It Up!

You know what? Hot tub covers are heavy. They get heavier with time, too, as the core accumulates and holds water. Sure, you could ease your aching back with a nice, long soak. But you could go one better by treating yourself to a spa cover lifter.

Choose one that relies on manual power, or one that’s fully automated. Either way, you’ll be saving effort, energy, and a pulled muscle or two.

Blue Wave Low Mount Spa Cover Lifter

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Soak It Up!

Eeeeewww! What is that stuff floating on top of your hot tub water?! What you take into the water stays in the water, including body oils, hair conditioner, and makeup. Mix all those things together in a warm tub of water, and you’ll eventually get a layer of hot tub scum floating on the surface. Blech!

After it’s there, your spa will need a good cleaning. But to keep it from accumulating and turning your hot tub into a grimy soup, soak up that scum and grime with floating sponges. Don’t have any? Tennis balls work too. And don’t forget to at least rinse off before you step into the hot tub to keep as much of that icky stuff out as you can.

Swimables Floating Sponges for Pools and Spas - 2 pack

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Seal It Up!

Any time you have a large volume of water putting pressure on, well, anything, the potential for leaks increases. Your spa is no exception. Even if you take the best care of it, you may still encounter a hot tub leak at one point or another.

The key to keeping a small leak from turning into a gusher is to seal it up as soon and as quickly as possible. To do this, make sure you keep hot tub leak sealant on hand, and replace it as soon as the materials are used up.

Marlig Industries Fix a Leak for Pools and Spas - 32 oz.

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Buff It Out!

What if it’s not an actual leak, but just cracks or scratches in your hot tub shell? Depending on the severity, you’ll either need to fill it and buff it out, or just buff it out.

What you use to fill a crack will depend on what your hot tub shell is made of. They’re usually composed of acrylic, vinyl, or rotomolded plastic. When buffing out a scratch, be sure to use fine-grit sandpaper. You want to smooth it out, not create a whole bunch of new scratches.

3M Sanding Sponge - Extra Fine Grit - 6 Pack

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Test It Out!

How do you keep your water balanced, prevent algae, and make sure there’s enough sanitizer in the water to prevent illness? You must test your hot tub water on a regular basis. No, actually, it’s best to do it frequently.

How you do this is really a matter of preference. You can use test strips, which are quick and easy. But if you’re a Bill Nye fan, and want to feel like a scientist in a lab, you can try a liquid test kit. Either way, stay on top of water balancing to keep everything—and everyone—clean and healthy.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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Filter It Out!

Sometimes, all spa filters need is a good hosing off. When they’re really dirty, you can clean hot tub filters with a special cleaner. But when the filter is just worn out and isn’t doing its job anymore? It’s time to replace it.

Filters don’t spoil, so keeping one or two in your spa care toolkit means as soon as you find your filter failing, you can fit a new filter in fast.

Spa Filter Cartridges - Replace Unicel, Pleatco and Filbur - 2 Pack

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Do It Up!

Don’t get caught with your bathing trunks down. Even if you only use them once in a while, having all the hot tub supplies you may need readily available will save you trips to the store, allow you to address potential problems as soon as they arise, and help you keep your spa cleaner than it’s ever been.

And if you only use your bathing trunks once in a while, well, that’s up to you. No judgment.

Happy Soaking!

The post 8 Hot Tub Supplies You Absolutely Need appeared first on Swim University®.

Ready to click your heels together and get ozonating? Once you understand how your ozonator works, which style is right for your spa, and how to install and maintain it properly, it might just whisk you away to a new land of hot tub satisfaction.

How Much Sanitizer Do I Need With An Ozonator?

If you’re using a hot tub Ozonator, maintain your chlorine levels at 0.5 PPM (compared to the typical 1-3 PPM) and your bromine levels at 1.0 PPM (compared to the typical 3-5 PPM). Because ozone frees up your sanitizers and breaks up the chlorine and bromine molecules bonded to contaminants, you need less sanitizer in your spa.

However, a little sanitizer is a good backup to prevent severe water chemistry issues. Be sure to test your water regularly to help maintain the right chlorine and bromine levels.

What Is a Hot Tub Ozonator?

While it sounds like a frankly amazing modification to a hot tub balloon basket, a hot tub ozonator is actually a device used to generate and inject ozone gas into your spa water.

Doing so helps scour impurities from the water and reduce the amount of chemicals you need to keep your hot tub running clean and serene.

Now You’re Cleanin’ with Gas

You’re probably familiar with good old oxygen, or O₂. It’s abundant in our air supply, and our bodies need it to do fun stuff like transfer nutrients and, y’know, stay alive. Think of ozone, or O₃, as oxygen’s burly big brother.

This gas has serious sass. Ozone kills bacteria and other contaminants in your hot tub, even without strong chemicals. It has three oxygen atoms per molecule instead of two, and it’s a real social butterfly.

It’ll attach itself to all sorts of gross and grimy contaminants in hot tub water, including lotions and potions like soap, makeup, cologne, sunscreen, and hair spray. It even tackles bodily fluids like saliva and urine.

What Does Ozone Do?

When used in conjunction with your regular hot tub sanitizer (e.g., chlorine or bromine), ozone helps kill pathogenic bacteria, germs, and viruses. That means you can use less sanitizer, cutting your spa spending while making your hot tub a happier place for anyone with chemical sensitivities.

Ozone not only destroys microorganisms, but also breaks down harmful chemicals, and causes total dissolved solids to clump together for easier removal by your filter cartridge. You get cleaner and clearer water that feels smooth and silky on your skin.

Because it’s so reactive, ozone also breaks up chlorine and bromine molecules that have bonded to contaminants. You won’t have to shock your hot tub as often, since the ozone frees up the sanitizers and allows them to be reused continuously. This can boost your savings even further.

Note: Despite its many virtues, ozone’s reactivity can wreak havoc on the vinyl interior of your hot tub cover. Add a hot tub thermal blanket, and you’ll not only protect your cover, but boost your energy savings by further reducing heat and moisture loss.

Hot Tub Thermal Cover 7 ft. x 6 ft. x 3/8 in.

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How Ozonators Work

It might seem like sorcery, but there’s no dark magic involved in making O₃. Ozonators split oxygen molecules into two free oxygen atoms in one of two ways: intense ultraviolet (UV) light or by using what’s known as a corona discharge (CD) unit.

When these freed oxygen atoms collide with existing oxygen molecules present in the water, they create ozone.

Ultraviolet Light or Corona Discharge?

While their functions are identical, UV and CD ozonators each bring their own set of pros and cons to the table.

Ultraviolet Light Ozonators

These bad boys are the OGs of O₃. They use ultraviolet light to split oxygen molecules into free oxygen atoms that recombine with ambient oxygen to create ozone.

They’re not as powerful as CD units, have a shorter functional life, and may cost more to run if you’ve got a large hot tub. Also, their bulbs inevitably succumb to solarization, or reduced UV output over time, and have to be replaced every two to three years to regain their ozone-making power.

On the plus side, UV systems aren’t affected by ambient humidity, and will produce ozone as efficiently in the swampy Florida summer as they do in an arid Colorado autumn. They’re also easier to clean than their CD counterparts.

UltraPure 1006520 UPS350 115V Spa UV Ozone Generator With 4-Pin AMP Cord

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Corona Discharge Ozonators

These models use much newer technology than their older cousins. The “corona” in “corona discharge” is a sheet of plasma created when a conductor is ionized by electricity. This purplish curtain resembles a halo or a crown (corona is the Latin word for crown).

CD ozonators have a long working life, high efficacy and efficiency, and lower costs than UV units. They can also handle much larger volumes of water, despite being generally smaller than UV models. They don’t have cartridges, chips, or bulbs to replace, and their plate ionizers can last as long as ten years.

The drawback is that, much like static electricity, conductor ionization is hampered by high humidity. So if you live in an area with very high humidity (60% or higher) during the season(s) you’ll be using your spa, a CD unit might not be the best option for you.

Hot Tub CD Ozone Generator

$119.95

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01/27/2023 10:27 pm GMT

When Should You Run Your Ozonator?

Depending on bather load (the number of people your hot tub using your hot tub, and how frequently), you’ll need to run your ozonator anywhere from 3 hours during a 12-hour period to 24 hours a day to see maximum performance.

For best results, turn it on and leave it running, especially if you use your hot tub on a regular basis.

What You Need to Add an Ozonator to your Spa

You’ll find that many of today’s spas are sold as “ozonator ready,” which means they already have a hook-up for the unit of your choice. All you really need is your ozonator and a properly primed hot tub.

Note: While adding an ozonator is straightforward for most, we recommend you consult a professional if you’re uncomfortable with installing hardware, don’t have time, or just want a little extra quality assurance. Water and electricity might be a recipe for success when making ozone, but it’s as bad for humans as it is Wicked Witches.

To get your hot tub ready for your ozonator:

• Verify that your hot tub will accept an ozonator by consulting your owner’s manual. If there is room and a power hook-up for your device, you’re good to go.
• Determine the proper voltage (120v or 240v).
• Check your electrical system to make sure your timer works properly and your entire hardware system is protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
• Find and repair any leaks in your spa plumbing.
• Check the filters, and clean them if necessary.
• Drain your hot tub and fill it with fresh water to give your ozonator a clean start.
• Balance and sanitize your hot tub water. Remember: ozone reduces the amount of chemicals needed and improves water quality, but it won’t replace your sanitizer.
• Verify the plug type you will need to connect the ozonator to your hot tub’s control pack.

Del Ozone Universal Hot Tub Ozonator

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Ozone-ready hot tubs usually have a small ozone jet near the bottom of the tub. This jet will have a water port, and an air (ozone) port. When no ozonator is present, the jet acts as a water jet only.

You’ll often find a capped, clear, ¼” interior diameter (ID) air suction tube hanging in the equipment bay of your spa if it doesn’t already have an ozonator.

How to Install an Ozonator in Your Hot Tub

You might be surprised by just how easy it is to add an ozonator to your spa. Gather your courage, heart, and ruby slippers, and get to it.

1. Mount the Ozonator

Physically install the unit under the spa cabinet or near the hot tub depending upon your tub and your setup. Mount the device firmly, and make sure it has plenty of room for airflow.

2. Install The Check Valve and Connect it to Your Spa

If your hot tub has an ozonator jet, simply connect it to your unit. If not, you may need to do a bit of plumbing. Consult your hot tub manual (or hire a pro) before you proceed.

Locate the ozone suction connection. This is typically ¼″ inner diameter (ID) × ⅜″ outer diameter (OD) vinyl air tubing. If the tubing has a cap, you can snip it off to accommodate the one-way check valve included in the ozonator kit

Note: The check valve is designed to prevent water backflow from ruining your ozonator. After you connect your ozonator to your hot tub, cut the tubing at around six inches, and install the check valve. Remember, you want air to be able to travel from the unit to the spa, but water needs to be stopped before it reaches the ozonator.

Attach the ozone check valve to one end of the vinyl tubing supplied with your ozonator kit. Attach the check valve’s other end to the hot tub’s suction tubing.

Set the air (ozone) to flow away from the ozonator and toward the hot tub. The valve may have a directional indicator for easy setup. If it doesn’t, determine the flow direction by blowing into one end of the valve. Be extra careful with this step, as installing the check valve backward will keep your ozonator from working properly.

3. Create a Hartford Loop

Your check valve is the first line of defense against backflow destroying your ozonator. But you can add another layer of protection by arranging your ozone tubing into a special fault-protection configuration known as a Hartford Loop.

Originally designed to protect steam boilers from failing if a line ruptured, the Hartford Loop protects your ozonator by keeping water from flowing into it.

Create a Hartford Loop by looping the ozone tubing up as high as you can before you connect it to the ozonator. Make sure the loop of tubing is above the water line, and it will help prevent water from reaching your ozonator in the event of a line failure or other problems.

4. Choose Your Power: Plug and Play or Hardwiring

Depending on your handiness and ambition, you can either plug the ozonator into a wall outlet for maximum convenience or hardwire it to your system so it turns on and off when you power on the main breaker for your hot tub.

Important: Again, if you don’t feel comfortable performing electrical work, be sure to consult or hire an electrician if you want to hardwire your system.

5. Set the Timers

With your system installed, the only step remaining is to set the timers. Configure the timers on your ozonator and hot tub so the system turns on and off automatically so you don’t have to play watchman.

For peak performance and efficiency, you may have to experiment with the run times of your ozonator based on your water quality and bather load. Start with three hours and increase it as needed.

Maintaining Your Hot Tub Ozonator

You’ve installed your system. You’ve powered it up. Oxygen molecules are being ripped to shreds like so many flying monkeys. All that’s left is to keep things running smoothly.

Regular ozonator maintenance is easy. Ensure it’s making ozone, the ozone is reaching the hot tub, and your check valve is holding down the fort.

1. Make Sure It’s Generating Ozone

No need for divination to see if your system is creating enough ozone—instead, test your hot tub water with ozone test strips or a meter.

You’ll get an instant snapshot of the ozone in your water, and adjust (or replace) your hardware or boost your run time accordingly.

2. Check the Ozone Delivery System

Like a farmhouse dropping on an unsuspecting sorceress, a faulty ozone injector can really put a cramp in your style. No matter how much ozone your unit’s generating, it won’t matter, because none of it reaches the water without a working injector.

If you find your water has low ozone levels, check your ozone injector before you replace the whole system.

3. Inspect the Check Valve

Keeping water out of the ozonator is essential, and your check valve is a key part of preventing backflow from ruining your day. If this valve begins to leak or (eep!) fails completely, your hot tub could quickly destroy your ozonator. Make checking this valve a regular part of your hot tub maintenance so you can stop a leak before it starts.

Industrial Test Systems 481234 Sensafe Ozone Test Strips

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Replacing Your Ozonator

Most UV ozonators last between two and three years before they need replacement. In some cases, you might need to change a solarized bulb before the system itself needs a full replacement. CD ozonator plates can last for a decade, but be sure to keep it clean and run it when the ambient humidity is low for optimal performance.

How will you know when to repair or replace? Check your water quality. Use ozone test strips or a test kit to help you identify problems with your ozonator and determine if it’s time for a new part or a whole new unit.

Now You’re the Wizard of Oz(one)

Sure, you could settle for soaking without that mighty molecule we call ozone. You’d spend more on chemicals, and probably have to shock more often, too. Add in the stress of extra upkeep, and you might as well be living in a monochrome dust bowl farmhouse.

Life with an ozonator? Now that’s a horse of a different color. With one of these handy units installed, you’ll save money on chemicals, enjoy cleaner, healthier soaks in your spa, and be able to say without a trace of irony, “There’s no place like home!”

Happy Soaking!

Image courtesy SpaDepot.com. Used with permission.

The post A Quick and Easy Guide to Hot Tub Ozonators appeared first on Swim University®.

Good things may come to those who wait, but we say it’s no fun waiting longer than necessary. Every hot tub is different, but you can find ways to get your tub a-bubblin’ quickly with the right hot tub heater, and then regular maintenance and a few strategic upgrades.

Wait, I Can Replace My Hot Tub Heater?

Yes! While all spas come with a heater installed, it’s a component that can be replaced when necessary, or upgraded when desired. It’d be ridiculous if you had to get a new hot tub every time the heater went out.

Sometimes, it’s sort of like the stock stereo that comes with a new car. It works and it sounds OK. But you can upgrade to something that rocks your car on its tires.

Upgrading your hot tub heater can mean your water heats up more quickly, and that the heater itself works more efficiently, thereby using less energy and costing you less money.

Factors That Can Affect Hot Tub Heating Efficiency

Your hot tub might heat up more or less quickly depending on a number of factors, including:

• Ambient temperature, or the temperature where your hot tub is located
• hot tub cover placement (on/off, secure/loose)
• Condition of your hot tub’s hardware

Ambient Temperature

The warmer the water and surrounding air, the less time your hot tub will need to heat to the proper temperature. What’s the proper temperature? For adults, health experts suggest that 104°F (40°C) is the upper limit for hot tub temperature. You’ll probably find your spa is most comfortable somewhere between 100°F (38°C) and 102°F (39°C).

For example, let’s say it’s 76°F (24°C) outside, and your water is at the same temperature. Heating your hot tub to 100°F (38°C) will take 4 to 8 hours. If, on the other hand, it’s a frosty 52°F (11°C) outside, and your water is the same temperature, it’ll need 8 to 16 hours to reach 100°F (38°C).

ProTip: As the temperature climbs, monitor it with a floating spa thermometer. Compare the readings with your system temperature to make sure the thermometer built into your hot tub control panel works properly.

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Cover Placement

Another way to speed up your hot tub heating is to leave the hot tub cover on while you wait.

Most of the heat lost from your hot tub disappears into the air above it. Leaving the cover in place traps heat and helps warm things up more quickly.

ProTip: An old, damaged cover can reduce efficiency and harbor all sorts of funky grime and microbes. If yours has seen better days, consider replacing it to improve not just your hot tub’s heating efficiency, but the overall health and safety of your spa.

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01/27/2023 03:29 pm GMT

Hardware

A malfunctioning hot tub heater or pump, or defective jets can throw a monkey wrench into your plans for a relaxing soak. Regular hot tub maintenance helps keep everything working at peak efficiency.

How to Heat a Hot Tub Even More Efficiently

Beyond leaving your cover on and performing regular maintenance, you can help your hot tub heat up more quickly with a few upgrades to your spa and its surroundings.

Warm Up to Spa Landscaping

It can be all too easy to overlook the importance of not just beautiful but functional landscaping when you’re setting up your hot tub. In addition to keeping heat in, you can help keep cold out by blocking wind and weather from your hot tub.

Wind can increase evaporation and cooling, making your hot tub work harder to reach the right temperature, and maintain it once it’s reached. Planting trees in your yard can cut wind considerably. You can also make a smaller, more localized windbreak around your hot tub area by planting shrubs. Single, double, or even triple rows of the right plants will cut noise and precipitation as well as excess wind. They’ll also provide more privacy, not to mention beauty.

You can also install special screens around your hot tub to block the wind and help keep your hot tub warmer longer. Like landscaping, these panels help keep your hot tub more private and comfortable, too.

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01/27/2023 07:04 pm GMT

Improve Your Hot Tub’s Insulation

While the bulk of heat is lost from your hot tub through the open surface of the water, you might also be losing some heat due to tiny leaks in the cabinet.

Bulking up the insulation can help keep cold air out, making it easier to heat your spa. It will also help keep it warm, so you won’t need as much time or energy to bring your hot tub to the right temperature if you haven’t used it in a few days.

You can install wall or attic insulation on the inside of your hot tub cabinet panels to boost warming power. Or, if you’re more of a DIYer, you can build a cabinet surround—basically, a cabinet for your cabinet—and fill it with insulation.

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Power Up the Cover

Trapping ambient heat and reducing evaporation by leaving a well-maintained hot tub cover in place while you heat your spa is a good start. But if you’re looking for Buster Poindexter levels of hot, hot, hot, consider adding a floating spa cover in addition to your main hot tub cover.

Adding a blanket cover can boost your spa’s R-value, or insulation efficiency rating, by nearly a third. That means less heat loss, and faster heating when you’re ready for some tubbin’.

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Should You Leave Your Hot Tub Running?

The answer to this question depends on how and when you use your spa.

If you live in a colder climate and you like to use your hot tub a few times a week, you’ll save time and money by leaving it running, and keeping the hot tub heater on. You won’t have to use extra energy or wait for hours and hours to heat things up whenever you want to take a soak.

On the other hand, if the climate is milder in your area, and you only use your hot tub occasionally, shutting it down between uses makes sense.

If you have sub-zero winters where you live, and your hot tub is outside, you’ll have a different choice to make. If you plan on hot tubbing while the snow flies, you’ll definitely need to keep your hot tub running all winter.

If you’re not a member of the Polar Bear Club and are more worried about hot cocoa than a hot soak, you’ll need to know how to winterize your hot tub.

How to Troubleshoot a Hot Tub Heater

There are few things worse than stepping into a cold hot tub. If your hot tub isn’t heating properly, you’re likely experiencing one of three symptoms.

The Hot Tub Isn’t Staying Hot

If your hot tub heats up with no problem, but then seems to just fizzle out and cool just like a regular bath, the first thing to check is the filter to make sure it’s not clogged. If you do find debris, clear it out, and then give the filter a good cleaning.

If the filter’s not the problem, check the thermostat and heat sensors. Electrical components can sometimes burn out or go bad, and will need to be replaced.

Finally, check the spa’s circulation. If the plumbing is clogged, and the water can’t circulate properly, it will begin to gradually cool down after it’s heated. If this is the case, you’ll need to drain and clean the hot tub, and use a line flush product to clear the plumbing.

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The Hot Tub Temperature Fluctuates

This can be a difficult problem to identify because it fools you into thinking nothing’s wrong.

You turn on your hot tub and slide into nice, warm water. Five minutes later, you’re shivering because the temperature has dropped even though you haven’t touched the controls.

But then it heats up again, so you figure it was a fluke and go on about your soak until the water becomes so hot, you feel like you’re stew on the dinner menu.

Fluctuating temperatures are most often caused by a temperature sensor that has started to die. If the sensor is in good working order, it may be the thermostat or heat sensors.

Whichever of those three things is the problem, it’ll have to be replaced.

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The Hot Tub Isn’t Heating at All

You turn on your hot tub, wait a little while for it to heat up, then step into ice-cold or at least room-temperature water. Yikes! Oddly enough, this can be caused by low flow from your hot tub pump. If that’s the problem, you’ll have to replace the pump.

The lack of heat may also be due to a bad heating element. When a heating element goes bad, there’s no fixing it. You’ll have to replace it. Luckily, heating elements aren’t expensive, and aren’t too difficult to replace.

Understanding the Heating Element Assembly

In a typical hot tub, the heating element is contained within the heater assembly housing. This housing exchanges the heat produced by the heating element to the water as it flows through the tube.

Some heating assemblies also use sensors such as a thermostat to control the temperature, and a high limit switch to keep the water from becoming too hot.

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01/27/2023 06:51 pm GMT

How to Replace the Heating Element

Replacing the element in your hot tub heater is easier than you may think.

Important: Before you begin any kind of work on your hot tub, disconnect all power leading to it.

1. Locate the heating element assembly inside your hot tub cabinet.
2. Disconnect the electrical wires.
3. Remove the heating element.
4. Place the new heating element in the now-empty space.
5. Reconnect the electrical wires.
6. Test the element by setting your hot tub to the usual soaking temperature, and waiting the appropriate amount of time for it to heat up, depending on current water temperature, and ambient temperature.

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Keep the Heater Element from Going Bad

You can save yourself some money and time by keeping your hot tub heater element in good condition with regular maintenance.

Keep the Water Balanced

Balanced water chemistry can help prevent corrosion inside your hot tub and extend the life of the heating element and the hot tub heater in general.

Keep Air Out of the System

After every maintenance session, be sure to flush all the air out of the system. Air in the lines can lead to the heating assembly’s premature failure.

Clean the Filter Regularly

Clogged filters can prevent water from properly flowing to the heater, which can eventually cause the heating assembly to essentially burn out. Check your filter regularly, and clean or replace it whenever necessary.

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Call a Pro if You Need To

If any of this maintenance or repair work makes you uncomfortable, or if any of these remedies don’t work, don’t hesitate to call a professional.

Water and electricity don’t mix, so if you’re not confident in your DIY abilities, or you simply can’t identify and fix the problem, better to have a pro come in than to put yourself in danger.

Three Hot Tub Heaters to Get Things Cookin’

That’s just an expression. It shouldn’t need to be said, but please don’t cook in your hot tub. We don’t care what the trend is. Blech.

But to keep your hot tub nice and cozy, try upgrading to a new hot tub heater.

1. Hayward CSPAXI11 11 Kilowatt Electric Spa Heater

With a 304 stainless steel tank and threaded head safety sensor heating element, this hot tub heater from Hayward heats quickly and efficiently. It’s small enough to fit into compact spaces, even under your spa steps or skirt, yet it boasts the capabilities of heaters twice its size.

This 11-kilowatt model operates at 240 volts, and features a heater on indicator light. It’s also designed to give easy access to internal controls, making maintenance and repair a breeze. It comes with a one-year warranty.

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2. EcoSmart US Smart SPA 5.5 Electric Spa Heater

This efficient, on-demand hot tub heater saves space, energy, and water. It features a digital thermostat control for precise settings, and an activation flow of 10 gallons per minute. EcoSmart heaters use state-of-the-art flow sensor technology rather than traditional pressure switch activation and contactors. This reduces the risk of burned out elements, and increases functionality and reliability.

The Smart SPA is compact, so it won’t take up much space no matter where you place it. It’s also easy to install either as a new system, or as a replacement heater. It comes with a two-year warranty.

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3. Raypak Natural Gas Pool and Spa Heater

Its compact size makes it ideal for above ground and inground pools as well as hot tubs. The Raypak features a digital thermostat dial and a thick-walled copper heat exchanger is corrosion resistant and features a built-in bypass valve that balances the flow and adjusts for a wide range of pump sizes and flow rates. A soft opening gas valve makes lighting the pilot easy and safe, and the system delivers reliable and fast heat. It comes with a one-year warranty.

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No More Lukewarm Soaks For You!

Until science finds a way to give humankind Superman’s heat vision, we’ll have to rely on hot tub heaters.

The good news is, as long as you invest in good equipment, keep up with your hot tub maintenance, and address problems as soon as they occur, you can keep your heater running—and enjoy your hot tub—for years to come.

Happy Soaking!

The post The Complete Guide to Hot Tub Heaters appeared first on Swim University®.

It’s important to know how to spot signs of trouble, what steps to take to circumvent preventable problems, and what to do when they crop up.

What’s in a Hot Tub Pump?

Before you try to fix or replace a malfunctioning pump, familiarize yourself with the specifications of your hot tub pump. Most pumps have a label on the side listing the most important technical aspects, such as horsepower (HP) and speeds. Other specs, such as discharge type and size, can be determined just by looking at your pump.

Variable or Single Speed

Every hot tub needs a pump that can power the jets and circulate the water. This means it needs both high and low speeds, which are measured in revolutions per minute (RPM). When a single pump can switch between high and low speeds, it’s called a variable-speed or two-speed pump.

Some hot tubs have single-speed pumps, but in those cases, there are two pumps. One is called the circulation pump, which runs at a much lower speed and uses less energy than any other pumps. Circ pumps, as they’re commonly called, only move between 25 and 35 gallons per minute (GPM).

Even small variable-speed pumps typically move 100 GPM or more. The most powerful variable-speed hot tub pumps can move as much as 260 GPM.

The second pump would function at a higher speed to power the jets in your tub. These can be single or variable speed. Some two–speed pumps can even be configured for single-speed use in a spa that has a circ pump.

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Wet and Dry Ends

If water were to enter the motor portion of your spa pump, it could destroy the pump completely. In order to keep it moving water without frying the motor parts, every pump has a wet end and a dry end.

As you can surely guess, the wet end houses the impeller which pushes water through your spa circulation system. The dry end contains the motor in a sealed housing that protects it from moisture. Each end contains parts that can malfunction and cause pump problems.

For example, if your impeller gets stuck due to residue, you’ll see flow problems. If there is a short in the motor wiring, it could cause your breaker to trip, seemingly at random. When one component has a problem, it’s possible to repair each end separately. But most of the time, it’s less expensive to just replace the broken pump entirely.

Voltage

The motor in your spa pump needs power to function. It’s important to determine whether yours requires 110–120 volts or 220–240 volts. If your pump has only two wires powering it, it’s 110–120 volts. The two wires are typically green and white.

If it has four wires, then it’s 220–240 volts. The wires would be green, white, black, and red. If your pump has a label on the side, the voltage should also be listed there.

Tip: When replacing your hot tub pump, save the power cord from your old pump (if it’s operational) to use on the new one. Even if your new pump comes with a power cord, it’s always good to have a spare.

Horsepower

Just like the imaginary horses in your car engine, the horsepower (HP) in your hot tub pump refers to how much power it provides. Spa pumps vary widely from ¾ HP all the way up to 5 HP.

However, you can’t just pop a 5 HP pump into any spa and expect stellar jet action. That power must be accommodated by appropriate plumbing. Too much power through too-small pipes will limit power and could even cause leaks.

You’ll also find that the HP rating on pumps can be a bit bloated, especially if yours is marked with SPL, which means it has a special (read: inflated) rating. This process of noting the HP a pump can achieve in the factory—but not in your spa—is called up-rating.

Discharge

The location on your pump where water exits is the discharge orientation, and it will either be in the center (on top) or on the side. Most pumps let you turn discharge to orient it however your spa requires. You’ll be able to tell which one your pump is just by looking at it.

Tip:Some pump brands use non-universal fittings for the discharge. If this is the case with your new pump, you’ll need to replace the unions when you install the pump.

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Frame Size

The housing around your pump includes pre-drilled holes where it will be bolted into place inside your spa. The holes are farther apart or closer together depending on the size of the frame, so if you choose the wrong size frame, you won’t be able to attach it properly.

Hot tub pump frames are either 48 or 56. You should be able to find one of those numbers on your pump’s sticker. If not, you can simply measure between the bolts on the frame, or on the motor. If the bolts are closer than 4 inches, it’s a 48 frame. If the distance is more than 4 inches, it’s a 56 frame.

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How to Prime Your Hot Tub Pump

When you add water to an empty spa, air can get stuck in your circulation system. Priming your pump pushes that air out so water can circulate correctly. You’ll need to prime your pump before using it the first time, after refills, and as needed in between.

Even self-priming pumps may sometimes need a helping hand. As the priming process differs slightly from model to model, you’ll want to check your manual for specifics. The two basic methods are easy to do.

Control Panel Priming

With the push of a button (or a few pushes of a few buttons, really), you can get your pump ready to rock.

1. Find priming mode on your control panel (if it’s available).
2. Turn your jets on low for 10–20 seconds.
3. Switch your jets to high for another 10–20 seconds.
4. Repeat until the water pressure is normal and jets are working without any gurgling or air bubbles.

Manual Priming

If the first method didn’t work, you can use your pump’s bleeder valve to get rid of air.

1. Flip your circuit breaker to avoid accidental contact with electricity from your pump.
2. Access your hot tub pump and close the gate valve on the discharge side.
3. Slowly turn the bleeder valve until you hear air hissing out.
4. Once the sound stops, tighten the valve back up. If you don’t tighten it, water can leak here and cause problems, so be sure to replace it properly.
5. Turn your breaker and spa back on to check the jets.

More Priming Tips

If you’re still having problems after priming your pump, you can try a few other tactics:

• Give your filter a good cleaning and check for other water flow issues such as clogs or possibly even leaks.
• Double check your water level to make sure the tub is filled properly. If the water level is too low, you may have problems with water flow.
• Don’t give up after one priming try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries through each of the priming steps to properly prime the pump.
• Never run your pump for more than 2 minutes if you aren’t sure that it’s filled with water. This could damage the pump.

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Troubleshooting Your Hot Tub Pump

When something is clearly going awry with your pump, you can try a few simple things to narrow down—or even fix—the problem on your own.

Pump Won’t Prime

If you hear gurgling, bubbling noises, it may indicate trapped air trying to escape your jets. This most commonly occurs right after refilling your spa. If you don’t hear those noises, the more likely cause is debris in your filtration system, leaving your hot tub gasping for air.

Clean your leaf trap and filter first, then try priming the pump. If the problem persists, you can “burp” the rest of the air out of your spa by turning the jets on and off.

1. Turn down the heat so it won’t keep trying to run.
2. Open all the jets fully.
3. Run the jets on high for about 15 seconds.
4. Repeat the jet bursts three times, increasing the run time by 10–15 seconds each time.
5. When air bubbles out of the jets, leave them on until the bubbling stops.

No Water Pressure

Water not moving properly? Trapped air, lack of pressure, or a pump that won’t prime may be the culprit. All of those problems can sometimes be solved by simply making sure nothing is physically impeding your circulation system.

First, clean your filter and leaf traps. If you’ve noticed seriously poor pressure, fully drain and clean your hot tub. Be sure to start with a line flush product to purge your circulation system of any gunk. Also, make sure all the jets are fully open before you begin the cleaning process.

Fresh water, a deep clean, and dedication to water maintenance and hot tub cover use can go a long way toward preventing spa problems and solving water pressure issues. But if you haven’t found any physical reason for your water pressure to struggle, your pump might need further inspection.

Motor Turns On and Off

A common symptom of a motor in its death throes is random power loss. If the temperamental motor doesn’t start behaving with a simple breaker reset, it could be faulty wiring or the motor itself.

If you’re comfortable doing so, you can use a multimeter to check whether the wiring is actually delivering steady power to the motor. If it’s not, you’ll need to clean off any corrosion, or possibly even replace the wiring. If the wiring is corroded, look for leaks.

If the problem appears to be internal, you’ll may need to replace the motor entirely. As always, if you’re not experienced in handling electrical repairs, have a pro test your motor and replace the wiring for you.

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Motor Runs, But Nothing Happens

If you can turn everything on, but your water isn’t circulating, you could have a stuck impeller or a clog somewhere in your circulation system. Grinding noises are a hallmark sign your impeller isn’t rotating properly due to residue or electrical issues.

Clean your filter and leaf traps. Flip your GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) to cut off all power to your pump, then check out your impeller. If you find anything gunking it up, clean it off, and try your pump again.

A damaged impeller may also fail to turn properly, which may require you to replace the impeller itself. Otherwise, your motor may be irreparable and need to be completely replaced.

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Pump Doesn’t Operate

If you can’t turn your pump on, you can’t enjoy your spa. Is your control panel inoperable, too? You’ve got no power coming to your spa.

Simple. Reset your breaker!

1. Locate your breaker box (usually a metal box mounted on a post or the side of your home, a few feet away from your spa).
2. Open it up, and note whether the hot tub breaker has tripped on its own already, as this could indicate other problems in your spa or with the breaker itself.
3. Flip it off, then back on again.
4. Try to start up your pump. If you’re lucky, this might be all you need to do.

If the breaker flips when you start up your pump, disconnect the pump and reset the breaker.

If it does not trip without the pump connected, you know the problem is caused by the pump.

If it does trip, your pump is probably fine, but you’ll need to troubleshoot the breaker itself or call a pro to take a look at your spa’s electrical components.

Water Leaks

Of course you want water inside your hot tub. But water inside your spa cabinet or near your GFCI is far less of a good thing. Leaks may cause your hot tub pump to malfunction. They can also trip the hot tub breaker, fry your motor, and rust or corrode electrical components.

Leaks can start out slow inside your cabinet and remain unnoticed until they’re a huge problem. Make a habit of looking for moisture around pump seals before the problem grows.

Grab a flashlight, open your spa cabinet and take a look around. If you see any moisture, locate the source. It could be as simple as a worn out union. You may also find a crack in the spa or your impeller housing. Cracks are more likely if your hot tub has recently experienced a freeze.

You’ll not only want to repair the source of the leak, but check to see whether water has destroyed any electrical components inside your spa. You may need to clean off some corrosion or replace wiring to get your pump working properly again.

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Pump it Up!

If your hot tub pump is beyond repair, a replacement will get your hot, bubbly spa water pumping once again. Not all pumps are created equal. In fact, some won’t even fit where your old pump did. Others have brand-specific connectors.

Make sure you know what to look for to choose the best replacement hot tub pump.

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What Size Hot Tub Pump Do I Need?

If you’re wondering how you’ll determine which size spa pump you need just by looking at the old one, don’t sweat it. First, look for the sticker on your old pump to determine the specifications. If there isn’t one, you can get the information yourself.

• Frame Size: Measure between the bolts. Remember, fewer than 4 inches is a 48 frame, and greater than 4 inches is a 56 frame.
• Speed: Determine how many GPM you need for your jets to function optimally by multiplying the number of jets your spa has by their flow rating. You may also contact your spa manufacturer for these details.
  • If you can adjust jet intensity and circulation you have a variable-speed pump. These pumps will also show two different amperages on the data sticker.
  • If you have separate circulation and jet settings (two pumps), your pump is likely single speed.
• Voltage: If your pump has two wires in the power supply, it’s 110–120 volts. If it has four wires, you need a 220–240 volt pump.
• HP: Overdoing it with HP can cause trouble, so stick closely to your original pump’s horsepower. The general rule of thumb is not to increase by more than 1 HP over the original.
• Plumbing Size: Measure the diameter of the PVC pipes going to your pump discharge and intake to determine which size unions you need.

Installing Your New Spa Pump

If you make sure you buy the correct replacement pump, and you don’t have any other problems with your spa, installing the replacement pump is fairly simple.

Important: Be sure to flip the breaker before you begin so you won’t get shocked. Safety first!

1. Close the valves or drain your spa, so all the water won’t run out when you remove the pump.
2. Be prepared with some towels or a Shop-Vac because a few gallons from the pipes will flow out.
3. Detach the copper grounding wire.
4. Loosen the intake and discharge fittings.
5. Remove the bolts in the frame.
6. Gently move the pump so you can reach the wires and detach them.
7. Wire the new pump properly.
8. Tighten the fittings, first replacing unions and O-rings if necessary.
9. Bolt the frame in place
10. Refill your spa and test out your new pump.

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Don’t Be A Chump, Take Care Of Your New Pump

Your hot tub pump is the thing that makes your spa a spa, rather than just a big bathtub you share with others—awkward. It’s natural for them to wear out and need to be replaced over time, but if you take care of your pump, it’ll keep your jets massaging for a good, long time.

Also remember to keep up with cleaning debris from your spa and leaf basket, balance your water chemistry regularly, and avoid ever letting your hot tub freeze up. When you notice something amiss, repair it right away so problems won’t have the chance to compound. Make those simple practices part of your routine and you’ll enjoy worry-free soaking for years to come.

Happy Soaking!

The post The Complete Guide to Hot Tub Pumps appeared first on Swim University®.

But it doesn’t have to be. Maybe it’s time to do yourself—and your back—a favor and invest in a spa cover lifter. And maybe not have to visit your chiropractor as often.

Why Buy a Spa Cover Lifter?

Sure, you could probably manage moving a brand-new hot tub cover by hand. They’re only about as heavy as a large bag of dog food. But it’s not just about the weight.

The size and shape of your hot tub cover can make it difficult, or at least awkward to remove and stow without someone to help you. Bending and lifting large, heavy things can also put your back at serious risk of injury.

If you want don’t want to call for backup every time you need to remove or replace the cover, a hot tub cover lifter is just what you need. Even the simplest models enable you to uncover and cover your spa on your own with little effort.

Over time, even with the best vapor barrier money can buy, your cover will start to absorb water that evaporates from your spa. Over time, your cover’s weight will start to creep upward as it retains more water. When your cover is irreparably waterlogged, you’ll need to replace it, but until then, a little mechanical help in moving it will make your life easier.

Using a spa cover lifter is like having an extra pair of hands to help you open and close your hot tub. Making this task easier means you can pop your spa open for quick water chemistry checks, easy hot tub cover cleaning, and solo soaks without hurting yourself.

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hot tub cover Lifter Types

You won’t find a mind-boggling variety to choose from, but it helps to know the three standard styles of lifters, how they work, and how they help you care for your spa.

Shelf Cover Lifter

Want a simple, cost-effective way to manage your hot tub cover? This is it. It’s a shelf that mounts on the back or side of your spa. We did say simple, right? All you’ll need to do is fold your cover then slide it onto the shelf. Some feature rollers that make it even easier to push your cover onto the shelf.

Most shelf hot tub cover lifters take up quite a bit of space, so make sure you have the clearance available next to your spa to fit it. Some models fold down when not in use, which may be nice if your shelf will make your spa area a tighter squeeze.

Shelf cover lifters don’t do any of the actual weight-bearing work of removing your cover. They just make it less difficult than fully removing and stowing the cover somewhere. If you struggle with the weight of your spa cover, a shelf cover lifter is probably not the best option for you.

Manual Pivot Cover Lifter

If you’re on a budget, but you need some help with actually lifting your hot tub cover, consider a manual pivot cover lifter. It works similarly to the way you slip a pair of slacks over a hanger.

A long, metal bar fits across the middle of your spa cover. Each end of the bar is mounted to your spa on a bracket that pivots. You’ll fold your cover in half (with the bar secured in the middle), then lift it upwards and push back. It will hang on the bar vertically, just like slacks on a hanger, until you pull it back into place.

The downside of this style of spa cover lifter is when your cover is off the hot tub, it will stick up past the top of the hot tub, blocking your view on that side. If you choose this style, choose where to install it with that pitfall in mind.

Hydraulic Cover Lifter

The most helpful option is also the most expensive, but with good reason. This type uses hydraulic pistons incorporated into the arms of the lifter to carry all the weight of your cover for you.

The way you use it is nearly identical to the manual pivot lifter. You install brackets on your spa cabinet, then attach an arm that will lie across the middle of your cover. You’ll fold the cover back, then guide it up and back, allowing the hydraulic arms to bear the weight of the cover.

You’ll likely be able to operate this lifter one-handed. While most models have the same drawback of obstructing one side, you’ll find a few hydraulic spa cover lifters on the market that preserve your 360-degree view by bringing your cover down to ground level for storage.

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How to Install a hot tub cover Lifter

Given the three styles available, exact instructions for installing your cover lifter will be determined by which type and specific model you buy. However, the main points are nearly universal.

Shelf Cover Lifter Installation

This is the easiest lifter to install, and requires just a few tools you probably already have available.

1. Measure and mark the places you’ll need to drill on your spa cabinet. You’ll have at least four screw holes to make, two for each bracket. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for proper placement.
2. Carefully drill guide holes so you won’t crack your cabinet.
3. Install the mounting brackets using a screwdriver and the included bracket hardware.
4. Insert each shelf arm securely into a bracket.
5. Check that the arms can be folded in or down as they should per the manufacturer’s instructions, and that they support your cover properly.

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Manual Pivot Cover Lifter Installation

You may have an easier time with this one if you can get someone to help you. Wrangling that bar and the slider arms by yourself can be challenging.

1. Place your cover on your hot tub, making sure the corners are properly aligned.
2. Measure, mark, and drill guide holes for the brackets per the manufacturer’s specifications.
3. Install the brackets.
4. Attach the slider arm and pivot arm to each other per the product instructions.
5. Place your slider arm into the bracket.
6. Lay the long, center bar across your cover. Insert each end into the curved support arms.
7. Insert the support arms into the pivot arms.
8. Fasten all the sections according to the product instructions.
9. Check that everything works properly, and adjust as needed before finishing up.

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Hydraulic Cover Lifter Installation

An extra pair of hands is definitely helpful for this one. In fact, you may even find that hiring a pro to install it is the easiest way to go since this one involves an electronic mechanism.

1. Measure, mark, and drill guide holes, then install your brackets. If you’ve chosen a hydraulic lifter that doesn’t require you to drill into your spa cabinet, you’ll assemble the base and frame first.
2. Lay the long, center pole across your cover. Insert each end into the support arms.
3. Insert the support arms into the pivot arms, then secure them into the brackets.
4. Install the hydraulic arms per the manufacturer’s recommendations. This step can require maneuvering the assembly, so this is where you’ll probably need someone to help you.
5. Check that your lifter is working as expected, troubleshooting bracket placement if necessary.

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01/27/2023 08:38 pm GMT

Cover Lifter Maintenance

Because they’re manufactured to be used in hot, steamy environments around water and chemicals, cover lifters are typically made from stainless steel or composite materials.

Their components resist corrosion and are simple to care for. Just keep your eye out for a few potential issues, and you can enjoy your cover lifter for years.

Inspect the Lifter Components

Whenever you use your spa cover lifter, watch the arms to see whether they’re bending under the weight of your cover. If you’ve got a shelf lifter, be sure you inspect the arms occasionally.

As your cover becomes waterlogged over time, it will place undue strain on your lifter. You’ll need to replace your cover (or at least the foam core) when this happens, but if you allow it to damage your lifter, you’ll end up repairing or replacing that, too. This is part of why proper cover care is so important.

When it’s time to drain and clean your hot tub—every three to four months—be sure to inspect all the components of your hot tub cover lifter. Grab a screwdriver or socket wrench and tighten up brackets and hinges, if needed.

Clean the Lifter Parts

No matter what type of hot tub cover lifter you choose, you’ll need to keep it clean to keep it in good working order. There’s no need for any special type of cleaner. Just a mild multi-purpose cleaner on a soft cloth is enough to give the arms a wipe down to remove grit or debris that could inhibit their movement.

If moving parts are squeaking, a little spray of water-resistant silicone lubricant should eliminate the problem. Protect your spa cabinet and shell from overspray by holding a cloth under any part you spray.

Do-It-Yourself Cover Lifter

If you’ve got a small budget and you’re handy, you might want to try building your own cover lifter. You can build one using electrical metal tubing (EMT) conduit, elbows or a bender, conduit straps, nylon webbing, and screws. You’ll only need basic tools: hacksaw, level, drill, and screwdriver.

Note: You’ll find some online plans use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) instead of EMT, but we advise against that choice. Sunlight and heat can weaken PVC, warping it or potentially damaging your hot tub cover.

7 Best Spa Cover Lifters

Are you just not the build-it-yourself type? Too busy to take on another project? No worries. We’ve handpicked the best cover lifters across all price points, so you can buy the perfect one for your spa without blowing your budget.

1. The Slider Spa Cover Roller

Our lowest priced pick improves upon the basic cover shelf by adding wheels. Each arm has four rollers on top. When you fold your cover and push it over onto the arms, the rollers minimize resistance so it’s easier to move the cover. When not in use, the arms fold down flat against the side of your hot tub cabinet.

This model says you only need a screwdriver to install, but we recommend you use a drill to make pilot holes in your hot tub cabinet before installing screws to avoid damaging your cabinet.

The Slider Spa Cover Roller with Retractable Arms

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2. Blue Wave Low Mount Cover Lifter

Another affordable and simple cover lifter, this manual pivot style mounts at ground level so your cover will fold down behind your hot tub, preserving the full view around your spa. It’s made from corrosion-resistant, powder-coated steel, so rust won’t be a problem. However, this model isn’t for everyone, or every spa.

It’s designed for use with square or rectangular hot tubs up to eight feet with radius corners. The brackets won’t install properly on spas without rounded corners. You’ll also need about four feet of clearance on the side you want to store your cover so you have enough space to fold it back and down. If your spa fits within its limitations, it can make removing and stowing your cover a one-person job.

Blue Wave Low Mount Spa Cover Lifter

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3. Smart Spa Cover Classic Bottom Mount Spa Cover Lifter

This lifter is basically a powder-coated aluminum rectangle that attaches to the bottom, back side of your spa. It needs only 18 inches of clearance to work, so it’s a great solution if you’re on a budget and you don’t have a few feet to spare around your hot tub.

While it will impede your view a bit, only part of your cover will stick up past the side of the spa. This model is designed specifically for square or rectangular hot tubs up to 96 inches wide, and it will not work properly with sunken or inground hot tubs.

Smart Spa Cover Classic Bottom Mount Spa Cover Lifter

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4. Smart Spa Cover Max Bottom Mount Cover Lifter

This durable powder-coated steel model can withstand harsh outdoor environments. It’s pretty easy to install, mounting directly to the bottom sides of your spa. It only requires one foot of clearance, but won’t work with recessed hot tubs.

Instead of hydraulics, this model uses a lower bar you press with your foot to help offset the weight you need to lift with your arms. It also has padded foam corner grips, and fits square or rectangle hot tubs measuring up to 96 inches.

Smart Spa Cover Max Bottom Mount Spa Cover Lift

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5. Lovatic SpaEase 200 Hydraulic Cover Lift

This one’s a little on the pricier side, but for good reason. Lovatic touts the SpaEase 200 as “the only hot tub cover lifter that uses steel where it’s needed, and aluminum where it’s required.” It fits square or rectangle covers up to 96 inches, and it only needs 10 to 12 inches of clearance behind the hot tub.

The lifter has dual pistons that use “Reverse Pneumatic Technology” (RPT) to assist in raising the cover. Once the cover is halfway up, RPT takes over and does all the work. The RPT system also helps with closing the cover, and once closed, it applies a gentle downward pressure to keep the cover sealed, helping to minimize heat loss and evaporation.

Lift Your Spirits Along With Your Cover

Installing a hot tub cover lifter will make removing your cover faster and easier. Keeping it clean will be a bit less work. Making sure your spa cover is back on after a nice, long soak won’t be such a backbreaking task, either. All of which will make you happier.

Trust us. Once you start using a spa cover lifter, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without one.

Happy Soaking!

The post The Complete Guide to Spa Cover Lifters appeared first on Swim University®.

What you’re left with is the best—and really, the only—option for getting in and out of your hot tub: steps. OK, they may not be as much fun as a cannonball, but they’re infinitely safer. It’s just a matter of choosing the right set of steps for you.

How to Choose Hot Tub Steps

There’s really not much to it. Selecting a set of hot tub stairs is really about three key factors:

Weight Capacity

The hot tub steps you choose need to be able to safely accommodate the heaviest person who will be using your spa. Otherwise, they could break the steps. Even worse, they could fall and injure themselves.

Material

Those moving boxes you have lying around in the garage may seems sturdy, but they’re not made to handle the weight of an adult. You’ll need to look for hard plastic resin, which offers the added bonuses of being water resistant and easy to maintain.

Or you can buy or even make wooden steps, but they’ll need to be treated or coated with something to protect them from moisture. They’ll also need to be sanded and completely smooth. You don’t want anyone climbing them with bare feet and getting splinters.

Safety

Yes, weight capacity and material are also about safety, but you need to look for features beyond that. Non-skid tread on the steps. Handrails. Enough width to allow a person to climb them without losing their balance.

Luckily, it’s not too difficult to find hot tub steps that offer all of those features and look good while they’re doing it.

1. Confer Plastics Spa Step with Storage

This little set of steps packs a big set of features. They’re sturdy enough to hold up to 300 pounds, yet are also constructed of a lightweight, maintenance-free resin. At three feet wide, you and your guests should be able to comfortably—and safely—climb the steps in and out of your hot tub.

Flip up the top tread, and you’ll find a removable storage compartment where you can keep hot tub accessories, including chemicals. But note that the compartment is not lockable, so think twice about using it for chemicals if you have kids or pets in the house.

Confer Plastics Spa Step with Storage - Gray

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2. QCA Spas Storage Step

Made of lightweight but durable resin, these hot tub steps support up to 300 pounds, and measure 36 inches wide and 23 inches deep, offering plenty of space for entering and exiting. The steps come in a stylish two-tone finish to complement your decor.

This unit also has a storage compartment to keep your hot tub accessories handy. No more running across the room to get a towel!

QCA Spas LASS36R Spa Storage Step - 36-Inch - Red/Black

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3. Festnight Handi-Step for Round/Straight Sided Spas

Doesn’t matter whether you have a round or square spa, these steps will fit. The treads are reversible to accommodate either shape. Plus, the steps are non-skid, adding safety to your entry and exit. They’re made from a high-quality, sturdy plastic, making them durable but lightweight, so you’ll have no trouble placing them right where you want them.

Festnight Handi-Step for Round/Straight Sided Spas

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4. Confer Handi Step Spa Steps

These hot tub steps require a little bit of assembly, but the effort will be worth it. They can support up to 300 pounds. Between that and the 29-inch width and 24-inch depth, you could probably carry another person piggyback into the hot tub. (Note: Don’t carry another person piggyback into the hot tub.)

They’re made of molded plastic which is lightweight, water resistant, and easy to clean. The steps have a non-slip surface for added safety, and are available in seven colors. As a bonus, the steps can be swapped to fit either straight-sided or round hot tubs.

Confer Handi-Step Hot Tub Steps for Round and Straight-Sided Spas

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Step Right Up!

Whatever type of hot tub steps you choose, just make sure you choose some. No sense hurting yourself, or at the very least giving yourself a nasty wedgie trying to climb into your spa. No one wants to see that.

Just select a set that offers the kind of weight capacity you need, is made from material that’s durable but attractive, and above all is safe. After that, it’s just a matter of which ones you like the best. The important thing is, they’ll get you in and out of your hot tub with ease so you can enjoy your spa even more.

Happy Soaking!

The post 4 Best Hot Tub Steps for Everyone appeared first on Swim University®.