Why Type of Pool Filter Do You Have?

Depending on the type of pool filter you have—cartridge, sand, or diatomaceous earth (D.E.)—the proper filter cleaning method will vary. And this guide covers all three. Scroll down to the section that applies to your filter system .

However, if you’re unsure what type of filter system you have, check out our guide on pool filters. It also depends on the brand of filter you have. For example, if you have a Hayward D.E. filter, chances are you’ll be dealing with filter fingers instead of grids which you’ll find in a Pentair filter.

Just make sure you have the proper pool equipment on hand for your type of filter, and then set aside some time to make sure it’s done properly. A dirty filter makes for a dirty pool.

How Often Should You Clean Your Pool Filter?

You should clean your pool filter at least once a month. A good indication that your filter needs to be cleaned is when the pressure gauge reads 10 psi above the normal operating level.

Cloudy water can also be an indicator that the filter needs a good cleaning. And if you’re dealing with cloudy pool water, read our cloudy pool water guide.

But sometimes your filter needs a deep clean. We recommend deep-cleaning your filter at least once a year depending on the type of filter you have.

Before we get into cleaning your pool filter, if you’re in need of a complete video course on taking care of your swimming pool, check out our Pool Care Video Course so you have clean water to swim in all season long.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

How to Clean a Cartridge Pool Filter in 4 Easy Steps

This is an easy type of filter to clean because you can simply pull out the pool filter cartridge, clean it, and replace it. You’ll need to follow a few steps to make sure it’s done right.

Once you have all the supplies, set aside some time to clean the pool filter. The process may even extend overnight, depending on how dirty the filter cartridge is.

1. Turn Off The Pump And Depressurize The Filter Tank

First, turn off the pool pump. If you have a timer, make sure you remove anything that’ll trip the timer and turn the pump back on. You don’t want the pump to come back on when you’re cleaning the filter cartridge.

For your own safety, remove air from the system. Turn the air relief valve (usually located on top of the filter) slowly to remove any excess air from the system.

2. Remove The Cartridge Inside The Filter Tank

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Remove the top of the filter. Then, carefully remove the cartridge and set it aside. Inspect it for damage and wear. If you find any cracks or tears, or it’s past the point where cleaning will be effective, it’s time to get a new filter cartridge to replace it.

3. Clean The Pool Filter Cartridge

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the cartridge, making sure to get between the pleats. If you want a special spray nozzle built specifically for cleaning pool cartridge filters, click here. Otherwise, a standard garden hose nozzle will work fine.

If the cartridge is dirty, use a filter cartridge cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Our Top Pick

Pool Filter Cleaner

Spray or soak your pool filter in this powerful cleaner to make your filter perform like new!

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

If it’s been a while since you’ve cleaned the cartridge filter, it can be covered in algae, calcium build-up, sunscreen, iron, and other contaminants you don’t want in your pool. In this case, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. You can use the same filter cartridge cleaner to do this. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution.

Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a 5-gallon bucket. Place the filters in the bucket and allow them to soak overnight.

Check the O-ring on the filter tank. If it’s in good shape, lightly apply some lubricant to keep it that way. If it’s dry-rotted or appears worn out, replace it.

Our Top Pick

Teflon Lubricant for O-Rings

Use this stuff liberally on all rubber o-rings to get a tighter seal and it'll make them last longer too!

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Rinse the cartridge thoroughly with water before putting it back in the tank.

4. Replace The Filter Cartridge and Re-Pressurize

Return the cartridge to the filter, and secure it in place. Replace the filter top and close the clamps.

Turn the system back on, and open the air relief valve to release any excess air in the system. Keep the valve open until a steady stream of water sprays from it.

Check the pressure gauge to be sure it’s in the normal filter pressure range. If the pounds per square inch (PSI) is off, you may have put the filter back together incorrectly, or something else may be wrong with the system. Troubleshoot the pool filtration system to identify and correct the problem.

How to Clean a Sand Filter in 3 Simple Steps

You can backwash the sand filter, which you’ll need to do whenever it reaches 10 psi over the normal operating level. It may also be time to clean the filter if you start to notice cloudy pool water.

But at least once a year, you need to chemically clean your sand filter.

1. Backwash The Sand Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear.

If you need more help backwashing your filter, check out our complete guide on backwashing here.

2. Add Filter Cleaning Solution

Turn off the pump, and turn the valve to “Filter.” Remove the pump’s strainer lid and our sand filter cleaner into the strainer basket. Then, replace the pump lid.

Turn the pump on for about 15 seconds, just long enough to transfer the cleaner from the pump to the filter. Turn off the pump, and leave it off for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

Our Top Pick

Pool Filter Cleaner

Spray or soak your pool filter in this powerful cleaner to make your filter perform like new!

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

3. Backwash The Filter Again

Backwash the filter for 3 to 5 minutes again to remove the build-up of dirt and debris dislodged by the filter cleaner. Turn the filter system back on.

If you don’t already have a sand filter, you may want to consider investing in one. The time you’ll save in cleaning is time you can spend enjoying your pool.

How to Clean a D.E. Pool Filter in 5 Steps

You can chemically clean a D.E. filter or you can backwash a D.E. filter. Aside from those indicators, it’s a good idea to clean your D.E. filter at least once a month. And if you need more information on D.E. filters, check out our full guide here.

1. Backwash and Drain The D.E. Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” If you have a push/pull valve, make sure it’s in the backwash position.

Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear. If you need more help backwashing your DE filter, click here for our complete guide.

Then, turn the pump off and open the air relief valve. Finally, remove the drain plug, and let the water drain out of the filter tank.

2. Remove DE Filter Manifold

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Open the filter tank and remove the filter manifold, and take out all the grids or fingers.

3. Rinse and/or Soak Filter Grids or Fingers

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the manifold and grids/fingers, making sure to thoroughly flush all debris including the D.E. powder. If the manifold is really dirty, use a D.E. filter cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the manifold is really dirty, you may want to soak it overnight in a muriatic acid solution.

Important: The acid in muriatic acid is exactly that. It’s caustic, and can cause injury if you’re not careful. Take all the precautions necessary to protect yourself, and anyone else who may be around while you’re cleaning your filter. We recommend using this method if your filter is so filthy that regular filter cleaner isn’t enough. And if you use this method, do so sparingly.

Put on the safety goggles and acid-resistant gloves. We also recommend you wear long sleeves, pants, and closed shoes. Dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a large, plastic trash can with a lid can big enough to hold the acid solution and filter manifold. Place the manifold in the trash can, ensuring it’s completely covered with the diluted solution. Allow it to soak overnight.

Our Top Pick

Muriatic Acid for Swimming Pools

Used for lowering alkalinity and pH in your pool water. It's also used for cleaning pool filter grids, filter cartridges, and concrete pool surfaces.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

4. Put The Filter Back Together

Once the complete filter manifold is clean, rinse out the tank with the garden hose, and place it back into the filter tank.

Replace the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to close it, check the owner’s manual.

5. Add Fresh D.E. Powder

Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.

Make sure the pump is running and pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer. Then, run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids or fingers.

Our Top Pick

Diatomaceous Earth Powder (for D.E. Filters)

Filter media for backwashing and cleaning D.E. pool filters.

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning a Pool Filter

Keeping your filter clean will also help it run longer and more efficiently, saving you money, energy, and time. The longer you keep your filter in good working condition, the longer you can wait to replace it, and the more you can focus on enjoying your pool.

Can you use vinegar to clean a pool filter?

Yes, but only a cartridge filter (not sand or D.E.). Soak your pool cartridge filters in a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar). Allow the filters to soak for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours.

Can I soak my pool filter in bleach?

No. Bleach will damage the fibers of pool filter cartridges. You’re better off using a filter cartridge cleaner or a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar).

Can I use a pressure washer to clean pool filters?

No. A pressure washer is too powerful and will damage your filters. Your best bet is to soak your filters in a filter cleaning solution (specifically designed for pools) for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours (overnight).

How long do pool filters last?

If you take good care of your pool cartridge filters by cleaning them regularly, they can last 2-3 years. If you have a sand filter, the sand inside will last about 3-5 years.

How do you clean algae out of a pool filter cartridge?

If your cartridge filter is covered in algae, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution. Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the season for pool owners.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Clean a Pool Filter (Sand, Cartridge, D.E.) appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s our full in-depth guide to how to vacuum an inground or above ground pool quickly and effectively so you can get back to swimming.

What You Need To Vacuum Your Pool

• Pool vacuum head (also called a vac head).
• Telescopic pole to attach to the vac head.
• Pool vacuum hose long enough to reach every area of your pool.
• Skim vac or vacuum plate (optional if you want to use the skimmer basket).

If you’re looking for some more DIY pool maintenance video tutorials, invest in our Pool Care Video Course by Swim University®. We’ll show you the proper way to hook up your manual vacuum and vacuum your pool efficiently so you can spend more time swimming.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

A Step-By-Step Guide to Installing and Cleaning Your Pool with a Manual Pool Vacuum

Before you get started, make sure the pool pump and filter are running. You also want to check that you’re running at a good starting pressure. If you have a D.E. or sand filter and the pressure is high, backwash it. If you have a cartridge filter, make sure the cartridges inside are cleaned and ready to go. Here’s our full guide on cleaning every type of filter.

IMPORTANT: If you’re dealing with algae or cloudy water, change your filter valve settings to the waste setting if you have a multiport valve or push/pull valve. This will bypass your filter and send the dirty water out through the waste port. If you have a cartridge filter, just remove the drain plug and attach a backwash hose. Your pool water level will drop while you vacuum. Use a garden hose to add fresh water while you’re vacuuming.

1. Attach Vacuum Head and Hose to the Telescopic Pole

First, ensure the pump and filter are running. Attach the vacuum head to the open end of the telescopic pole. Attach one end of the hose to the vac head. If the hose is slippery, use a hose clamp to keep it in place.

Our Top Pick

Weighted Butterfly Pool Vacuum Head

The weighted triangle pool vacuum head is a great way to clean your pool. The weights on the bottom of the vacuum head help to keep it in place while vacuuming.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

2. Fill The Vacuum Hose with Water to Remove Air

Place the vac head, telescopic pole, and hose in the pool, making sure the vac head rests on the bottom of the pool. Place the other end of the vacuum hose against a return jet in the pool. This will push water through the hose and drive all the air out.

Triple-check to make sure the vacuum inlet is the only line open to the pump. If not, particles and debris will also be sucked in by the pump and undo all your hard work.

NOTE: You’ll see air bubbles rising from the vacuum head on the floor of the pool. Once the air bubbles stop, all the air is out of the hose.

Our Top Pick

Telescopic Swimming Pool Pole

Get those hard to reach places with your leaf net, vacuum, or brush. This professional-grade telescopic pole is what the pros use to clean pools thoroughly.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

3. Attach Vacuum Hose to Pool Skimmer

Attach the skim vac plate to the end of the hose you’d previously placed against the return jet, block the opening with your hand, and bring it over to the skimmer. Insert it in the skimmer on top of the basket and be sure to create a good seal or suction will be lost.

If you’re not using a vacuum plate, remove the skimmer basket inside. Use your hand to block the end of the water-filled hose. Then place the hose into the skimmer inlet, making sure it’s firmly inserted into the suction hole at the bottom of the skimmer.

NOTE: Whichever method you choose will create the suction that pulls material through the vac head, up through the hose into the skimmer, and then through the filter system. If your vacuum loses suction, just follow the prep steps again to restore it.

Skim Vac Pool Skimmer Plate

This optional plate allows you to keep your skimmer basket in place when you manually vacuum your pool. Without it, you'd have to remove the skimmer basket.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

4. Start Vacuuming

Now that you’ve built a powerful siphon using your filter system, you can vacuum the floor of your pool. Start at the shallow end (if you have one) and move toward the deep end of the pool. If you have a round pool, just start at one side and move left or right across the floor.

Use long, slow, sweeping strokes to clean. Make sure your strokes overlap slightly to avoid leaving any debris behind. Rushing will just kick up debris, which will reduce visibility and take hours to settle down again.

If the water does become cloudy, give it a couple of hours to resettle, then come back and vacuum again, repeating as necessary.

If the vac head becomes stuck, switch off the pump for a second to break the vacuum force and set it free. Also, be sure to monitor your pool filter’s pressure gauge as you vacuum. If the pressure rises above the levels recommended by the manufacturer, take a break, and backwash your filter.

5. Disconnect The Vacuum and Perform a Final Clean

Once you’ve finished vacuuming your entire pool, it’s time to clean up and get back to swimming.

1. Remove the vacuum head from the telescoping pole, and drain any water still in the vacuum hose. Attach your cleaning brush to the pole, and use it to scrub away any algae, dirt, and debris from the sides of the pool.
2. Clear any debris in your pump strainer basket, and backwash the filter if you have a multiport valve and used the “Filter” setting. Here’s our full guide on cleaning your pool filter after you’re done vacuuming.
3. If you used the “Waste” setting to vacuum the pool, make sure you switch the valve back to the “Filter” setting and keep adding fresh water to your pool until the water level is restored.
4. Once you’ve topped off your water, test your pool water, and adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine as necessary.
5. Rinse all your equipment with freshwater, dry it, and return it to storage. This will help keep it in top working condition and avoid unnecessary wear and corrosion.

You don’t have to dread the vac head! When it’s time to vacuum your pool—whether you’re just the hands-on type or waging war on invading algae—you can get the job done by hand with a little preparation, a lot of elbow grease, and a healthy dollop of patience.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vacuuming a Pool

Looking for more help with your pool vacuum cleaner? Here are some common questions and answers.

What setting do you put your pool filter on when vacuuming?

If you’re just doing a light debris vacuum, you can keep it on the “Filter” setting. But if your pool is really dirty, it’s best to put the filter on the “Waste” setting (not “Backwash”) to bypass the filter when vacuuming. The filter is now powerful enough to remove debris that quickly.

Do you vacuum a pool on backwash or waste?

If you’re vacuuming a lot of heavy debris out of your pool, your filter setting should be turned to “Waste.” Do not use the “Backwash” setting. The goal is the bypass the filter entirely which is what the “Waste” setting does. Backwashing reverses the flow of water through your filter to clean it out.

Do you leave skimmer basket in when vacuuming pool?

Don’t Like Vacuuming Your Pool By Hand? Here are our Favorite Automatic Pool Cleaners

First of all, welcome to the club! While some people find this to be a form of meditation, it’s still a chore. And thankfully, we live in a world of blossoming technology I can help you task this to a swimming pool vacuum that acts like a robot.

1. Robotic Pool Cleaners

Independent cleaners that vacuum your pool using electricity. You plug them in, drop them in your pool, and let them do all the hard work on their own. All you have to do is empty the built-in filter bag when they get full of debris. These are by far the best automatic pool cleaners on the market, but they can be a bit pricer. Hey, you get what you pay for.

We keep an updated list of our favorite robotic pool cleaners. But here’s one we highly recommend:

Our Top Pick

Dolphin E10 Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Grounds

$599.00

Designed for above ground swimming pools up to 30 feet. It takes less than 2 hours to clean your pool with built-in water filtering and scrubbing.

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/28/2023 03:02 am GMT

Our Top Pick

Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus Robotic Pool Cleaner

Ideal for swimming pools up to 50 feet. Cleans large pools in just 2 hours. Includes dual scrubbing brushes and a built-in schedule using 3 settings: every day, every other day, or every 3rd day.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

2. Pressure-Side Pool Cleaners

These cleaners hook up to your return line and use the water pressure from your filter system to power a self-contained automatic cleaner around the bottom of your pool to pick up debris into a filter bag.

We highly recommend investing in a Polaris Pool Cleaner. But here’s our favorite one:

Our Top Pick

Polaris Vac-Sweep 65 Pressure Side Pool Cleaner for Above Ground Pools

$288.99

Connects to the pressure side of your pool and uses a patented jet sweep assembly to loosen and remove dirt and other particles from hard-to-reach places. It also has a trailing all-purpose debris bag that scoops up some of the larger items that are blasted loose from the pool floor.

Buy On Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 11:50 pm GMT

Our Top Pick

Polaris Vac-Sweep 360 Pressure Side Inground Pool Cleaner

$579.00

The Polaris 360 automatic pool cleaner improves water circulation and helps mix chemicals and heat while it cleans the bottom and walls of your pool. It’s powerful enough to pick up larger items like leaves and pebbles, catching the debris in its own filter bag.

Buy Now On Amazon Buy Now On InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/28/2023 12:58 am GMT

3. Suction-Side Pool Cleaners

This is just an automatic version of vacuuming your pool manually. They hook up the same way you do when you vacuum your pool manually. The biggest difference, however, is that they move around the bottom of your pool by themselves. That way, you don’t have to stand there in the hot sun and do it yourself.

However, we recommend if you’re going to make this investment, that you go for a pressure-side or robotic cleaner. That said, here’s our favorite suction-side automatic pool cleaner:

Our Top Pick

Pentair Kreepy Krauly E-Z Vac Suction-Side Above Ground Pool Cleaner

$246.07

This Kreepy Krauly pool vacuum attaches directly to your pool skimmer line and is powered by your pool’s pump, using an internal free skimming valve to automatically regulate water flow, ensuring the unit is cleaning at the proper speed.

Buy Now On Amazon Buy Now on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 09:30 pm GMT

Our Top Pick

Kreepy Krauly Suction-Side Automatic Inground Pool Cleaner

$328.49

It connects directly to your pool filter system and includes 32 ft. of hose. It's powerful, balanced, and doesn't have any hammering noises (common in other suction-side pool cleaners) for quiet operation.

Buy On Amazon Buy On InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 06:43 pm GMT

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Vacuum Your Pool Super Quick appeared first on Swim University®.

When you know how your pool works, the best ways to care for it, and how to plan for it, you’ll be ready to solve just about any potential pool problem that floats your way.

Good Pool Maintenance Begins with Knowing Your Pool

Before you can properly enjoy or care for your pool, you might need to brush up on all the parts of your pool. Knowing the basic parts of your pool, and their functions, helps you keep everything running smoothly—and makes it easier to resolve issues when they occur.

Looking for a full in-depth video course on swimming pool maintenance? Check out The Pool Maintenance Video Course and become a pool care master so you can effortlessly keep your water clean and clear all season.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

The Basic Components of a Swimming Pool

Every type of swimming pool has four components that need regular care. These include:

1. Pool Water

It might seem like a no-brainer but the water in your pool is key to lasting pool happiness. Keeping it clean, clear, and balanced protects you and your family from contaminants and pollutants. It also helps you avoid costly hardware repairs due to corrosion or mineral build-up, and helps your whole pool last longer.

2. Pool Interior

The walls of your pool liner are in constant contact with pool water, and everything that enters it. Keeping these surfaces in good repair, and clear of algae, mold, and debris, will help keep your pool clean and safe.

3. Pool Filter System

The pumping heart of your pool is also its liver. OK, that sounds a little weird. But think about it: your pool pump draws water keeps your water circulating, like your heart does with your blood. Your pool filter clears dirt and other contaminants from your water just like your liver filters last night’s cheese fries from your blood.

Both protect you and your pool from harm. Without a functioning filter system, your pool will soon be a cloudy, polluted, and unswimmable mess.

Depending on your setup, you might have a cartridge filter, a sand filter, a diatomaceous earth (D.E.) filter. Or, if you have a salt water system, a salt water chlorinator.

4. Pool Skimmers and Returns

If your pool’s filter is its liver, then your skimmers and returns are its veins and arteries. Your skimmers—not to be confused with a net skimmer, the cleaning tool attached to a telescoping pole—pull water into the filter for cleaning, while the returns push the cleaned water back into your pool. And like your veins and arteries, they work best when they’re clean and clear of obstructions.

No two pools are alike, and you’ll no doubt encounter pool maintenance challenges specific to your pool as time goes on. But if you’ve got a firm grasp on these four pool components, you’ll be well equipped to face down most upkeep challenges.

The Three C’s of Proper Pool Maintenance

The foundation of effective pool care is built on three simple but important concepts: circulation, cleaning, and chemistry.

1. Good Water Circulation

In your pool, moving water is cleaner, clearer, and safer. Proper pool circulation is key to healthy and safe swimming.

A pool with good circulation rarely has issues like cloudy water or pool algae infestation. Keep your pump and filter system running daily to maximize circulation.

How long should you run your pool pump? Ideally, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. But since that’s not feasible for everyone’s budget or equipment, we recommend running your filter at least 10 to 12 hours a day. That’ll turn the water over a few times and help keep your pool safe and clean.

The other key component to good pool circulation is frequently backwashing your filter. Backwashing refers to reversing the flow of water through your filter and shunting the dirty water and built-up contaminants to the waste port, carrying them out of your pool.

If you’re not sure how to clean a pool filter, it’s imperative to learn and make it part of your regular pool care routine.

Tip: If your pool has a sand filter, add a cup of D.E. powder to boost its filtering power. Cloudy water will clear more quickly as the D.E. aids your sand filter in straining fine particles.

2. A Pool Cleaning Schedule

If it has proper circulation, you’ve already made cleaning your pool much easier. But you’ll still need to apply some good old-fashioned elbow grease. The basic tools you’ll need are:

• Net skimmer
• Pool brush
• Pool vacuum

Both Mother Nature and the folks using your pool bring all sorts of wild and wacky things into your pool, from leaves, mold, and the odd duck or frog to residues from shampoos, perfumes, and hair products. Add in the risks of bacterial contamination, and cleaning your pool becomes an absolutely essential part of safe swimming.

Skim, brush, and vacuum your pool weekly, at a minimum. This will keep debris out of your water, and your walls sparkling clean. Baking soda paste works particularly well as a basic scouring cleaner that won’t damage delicate tile or a vinyl liner when you brush.

An automatic pool cleaner can significantly cut your pool cleaning time. It won’t eliminate the need for regular skimming and brushing, but it’ll make both tasks easier, freeing you up to spend time enjoying your pool instead of cleaning it.

You can also make your cleaning life easier with a few unorthodox additions to your pool. Toss a few tennis balls into your skimmer basket, or even right into the pool, and they’ll absorb surface oils left behind by suntan lotion, cosmetics, etc. You can also wrap your skimmer baskets with pantyhose to create an extra-fine filter that’ll catch more contaminants than a skimmer alone.

Simply replace both the tennis balls and the pantyhose when they start to show signs of wear.

Tip: If you have an inground pool, the drains built into the bottom of the deep end will help pull water into the filter and make it easier to clear debris loosened during cleaning. Above ground pools don’t have these drains, but you can get the same water-clearing boost with a manual pool vacuum.

Simply attach your vacuum to your filter system and place it in the middle of your above ground pool, making sure the vacuum is upside down. Turn it on, and it’ll act as a main drain to help you clear cloudy water more quickly.

3. Balancing Your Water Chemistry

Step away from the Bunsen burner. Pool chemistry might sound intimidating and complicated, but you don’t have to worry. While it is an essential part of effective pool maintenance and water care, basic pool chemistry is surprisingly straightforward.

The most important tool in your bag of water care tricks is your water testing kit. You wouldn’t season your stew without tasting it. So before you reach for the chemicals, do some pool water testing. Understanding what’s in your water, and what isn’t, is the first step to balancing it.

The three most important parts of pool water chemistry are:

• pH levels: The measure of how acidic or basic your pool water is. Low pH levels are acidic, while high levels are basic. The ideal range for your pool is 7.4 to 7.6.
• Alkalinity: Works as a pH buffer and helps avoid huge spikes in basicity or acidity. The ideal range is 100 to 150 parts per million (ppm). And you can use baking soda to increase your pool’s alkalinity level.
• Sanitizer levels: The amount of chlorine, bromine, etc. in your pool water. Proper levels vary depending on which type of sanitizer you choose.

Once you know your pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels, you can start to add chemicals to tweak your water balance. Take your time, follow all the directions, and be sure you know what each chemical does and how it’ll affect the water, and the folks who swim in it, before you add it.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Don’t Forget to Add Pool Shock!

Every once in a while, your sanitizer will need a little help, especially after a rainstorm, or if a lot of people have been using the pool. To make sure your pool stays clean even when the sanitizer is maxed out, add pool shock on a regular basis.

Create a Maintenance Schedule

As you learn more about your pool and how to care for it, your to-do list might start to seem a little intimidating. Creating a pool maintenance schedule makes it easy to stay organized and make sure important tasks don’t slip through the cracks.

Not only will you be able to stay on top of basic upkeep, but you’ll be able to plan ahead for more advanced pool maintenance tasks like closing your pool, caring for it during the off season, or getting your swimming pool ready to roll when pool season returns.

Keep it Simple

Write down your pool maintenance schedule and tape it on the wall, fridge, or even somewhere near your swimming pool. If others in the household are available on certain days to do some of the simple maintenance tasks, jot down a name beside each task and share the workload.

3 Tips for Vacation Pool Maintenance

Being that most of our readers take summer vacations and own swimming pools, I figured I would share a few tips for vacation pool maintenance. I used to get asked this question a lot when I worked at the pool store. It’s not as hard as you might imagine.

1. Find a Neighbor or a Friend

This is the key to success when it comes to keeping your swimming pool clean while you’re away.

The ideal candidate is someone who owns a pool themselves. They should already know what to do. Tell your friend or neighbor to check on the pool once a day and provide them with a simple checklist, including:

• Empty the skimmer basket(s)
• Skim the surface of the pool
• Check the filter pressure (backwash if needed)
• Test the water with a test kit or test strips
• Add any necessary chemicals (only if they know what they’re doing)

2. Get A Pool Pump Timer

Hopefully, your pump already has a timer. If not, I would invest in one. They are a crucial part of proper pool care.

Set the timer to run the pool at least 8 to 12 hours a day. If you can split up the times, great! If not, it won’t be a problem for it to run 24 hours a day. Running your pump and filter is very important to keep your pool clear and it’s better to leave a timer in charge rather than a human.

3. Get Your Water Checked Before You Go

Take a sample of your pool water to your local pool store and get it professionally checked.

Make sure when you get it checked that you correct any issues before you go. You want to make sure that your pH and alkalinity are properly balanced and your sanitizers levels are correct.

• pH: 7.4 to 7.6
• Alkalinity: 100 parts per million (ppm) to 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal
• Calcium Hardness: 175 ppm to 225 ppm, or 200 ppm to 275 ppm for concrete and plaster pools
• For Chlorine Pools: 1 ppm to 3 ppm
• For Bromine Pools: 3 ppm to 5 ppm
• For Biguanide Pools: 30 ppm to 50 ppm
• For Salt Water Pools: 0.5 ppm of chlorine
• For Mineral System Pools: 0.5 ppm of chlorine

Also, make sure your pool is clean and crystal clear before you leave.

Come on In, the Water’s Fine—Thanks to You

Owning a swimming pool is one of the most rewarding ways to enjoy fun in the sun at home. Yes, it needs regular care, but that doesn’t mean you’ll spend your life shackled to a vacuum or fiddling with your chemistry set.

In fact, when you know how your pool works, understand the care it needs and plan ahead, you might find yourself taking pride in your pool care prowess. You’ll enjoy not just your swim, but the peace of mind that comes with regular and thorough pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Pool Maintenance appeared first on Swim University®.

What is Pool Shock?

Pool shock is a chemical that oxidizes chloramines in your pool water. “Shocking” your pool is also a process called superchlorination. By shocking your pool, you’re adding enough chlorine (or another chemical) to sanitize the water and destroy the buildup of chloramines.

Chloramines form when chlorine mixes with the nitrogen in sweat, oils, and urine. This is a natural chemical process, basically a byproduct of your chlorine doing its job.

Think back to the last time you walked past a hotel pool. The strong chlorine smell actually comes from chloramines, a sign of improperly sanitized water.

Shocking your pool can also help clear up cloudy water and kill pool algae growth if your pool is green.

Also, if you’re looking for more help on taking care of your pool, we’ve created a full video course covering everything you need to know about your pool, how to clean it properly, and strive to make water chemistry super easy for you. Check out our Pool Care Video Course and Handbook today!

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

Types of Chlorine

Before we dive into how to shock a pool, you first have to understand the difference between total and free chlorine, and combined chlorine and breakpoint chlorination.

• Free Chlorine (FC) is the amount of pool chlorine actively disinfecting your water. You want your water’s FC level to be between 1 and 3 parts per million (ppm) so the chemical can do its job.
• Combined Chlorine (CC) is the amount of chlorine that’s been used. It’s still in the water, but its sanitizing power is greatly diminished. You want to keep your CC level at less than 0.2 ppm.
• Total Chlorine (TC) is the sum of FC and CC in your pool. Pool water testing kits can measure the FC and TC of your water. To find the CC of your pool, simply subtract the FC from your TC.
• Breakpoint Chlorination is when you have enough FC to shatter the molecular bonds of chloramine. You need to add ten times the amount of CC to hit this point.

Try to reach the breakpoint every time you shock your pool. Not hitting the breakpoint can result in even more chloramines in your pool, and if the chloramine levels continue to rise unchecked, you may eventually have to partially or even fully replace your water to fix the issue.

If you want to learn more about the difference between free and combined chlorine, we wrote a full article about it here.

Types of Pool Shock

You generally can’t shock your pool using regular chlorine tablets, but you do have your choice of products when it comes to pumping up your chlorine levels.

1. Calcium Hypochlorite Shock

Also known as cal hypo, this chemical has been used to disinfect swimming pools and municipal water sources since 1928. It’s one of the most inexpensive and convenient ways to shock your pool.

• Most commercial versions contain between 65% and 75% chlorine.
• Calcium hypochlorite needs to be dissolved before you add it to your pool.
• It must be used after dusk.
• It will be roughly eight hours before you can safely swim again.
• It adds about 0.8 ppm of calcium to your water for every ppm of FC added, so use caution if your water source already has a high level of calcium.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

Buy Now On Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

2. Lithium Hypochlorite Shock

If your water has high calcium content, and you don’t mind paying a little extra, lithium hypochlorite is the way to go. It dissolves much more quickly than calcium hypochlorite, so you can add it directly to your pool without dissolving it beforehand.

• Commercial versions contain 35% chlorine.
• It must be used after dusk.
• It will be roughly eight hours before you can safely swim again.
• It can be toxic to aquatic life (making it a solid algaecide), so you must take care when disposing of recently treated water.

Note: You may have a difficult time finding lithium hypochlorite. Some pool chemical manufacturers have stopped producing it due to the rising cost of lithium, most of which is now used to make lithium batteries.

3. Dichlor Shock

The actual names of this swimming pool shock chlorine are sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione or dichloroisocyanuric acid. (Try saying either of those five times fast.) Dichlor shock is much easier to say and even easier to use. Depending on the brand, you may be able to add it directly to your pool. Also, you can use this type of shock for saltwater pools.

• It typically contains between 50% and 60% chlorine.
• You can use it for both regular chlorine doses and shock treatments.
• You typically don’t have to dissolve it ahead of time.
• It adds 0.9 ppm of cyanuric acid for every ppm of additional FC.
• It must be used after dusk.
• It will be roughly eight hours before you can safely swim again.

Clorox Dichlor Pool Shock XtraBlue (1 Pound Bags), 12 Pack

This multifunctional pool shock from Clorox comes in a 12-pack. The algae-fighting granules create crystal clear water by killing bacteria and organic contaminants. It works well for smaller pools and saltwater pools. As a dichlor-based stabilized cholorine shock, it does contain cyanuric acid.

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

4. Non-Chlorine Shock

If you’re looking to shock your pool and take a dip soon afterward, this is exactly what you need. Non-chlorine shock using potassium peroxymonosulfate is a fast, inexpensive pool shock alternative. This is the preferred shock for saltwater pools.

• You can add it directly to your pool water at any time.
• It will be roughly 15 minutes before you can safely swim again.
• Because it doesn’t rely on chlorine, it does not function as an algaecide.

Our Top Pick

In The Swim Chlorine-Free Oxidizing Pool Shock 24 x 1 Pound Bags

Powerful oxidizing agent that eliminates combined non-sanitizing chlorine (chloramines) and provides higher free chlorine levels. Helps eliminate algae growth as well as harmful bacteria. Ideal for use with chlorine or bromine sanitized applications, weekly maintenance, and will not affect other chemical levels

Buy Now On Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

When to Shock Your Pool

The instructions on chlorine shocks say they need to be used after the sun has gone down. This is because the sun’s uv rays burn off unstabilized chlorine, which means the shock won’t be as effective. Shocking your pool at night makes sure the chemicals work the way they were meant to.

How Often Should You Shock Your Pool?

We recommend shocking your pool once a week, or at least once every other week to properly maintain sanitized water chemistry. The more often you use the pool, the more often you should reach for the swimming pool shock. In addition to your weekly or semi-weekly treatments, you may want to perform an extra pool shock under certain circumstances, such as after:

• heavy pool use (like a pool party)
• a severe rainstorm or damaging winds (especially if your pool collected debris)
• a major water level change
• a bowel-related pool accident

Think of extra shocks as insurance against wayward algae and other contaminants. It’s better to take out any bacteria before it has a chance to affect the quality of your water or make anyone sick.

How to Shock a Swimming Pool The Right Way

Superchlorinating your pool is shockingly (sorry, we couldn’t resist) easy once you get the hang of it. Also, this process works for any type of swimming pool including inground, above ground, and small inflatable or quick-set pools.

Important: Remember, if you’re using chlorinated pool shock, wait until the sun goes down before adding it.

Supplies For Shocking Your Pool

• Protective eyewear
• Chemical-resistant gloves
• Pants and a long-sleeved shirt (that you won’t mind messing up)
• Closed-toe shoes
• Water test strips or liquid testing kit
• Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock
• 5-gallon bucket (if you need to dissolve the pool shock before adding it to the water)
• Wooden stick (for stirring to dissolve)

Before you start, you’ll need to calculate your pool’s volume. If you don’t already know how much water your pool holds, you can use this pool calculator to figure it out.

Pool Volume Calculator Click on your pool shape to calculate the volume of water.

Rectangle

Round

Get Pool Volume

Get Pool Volume

1. Test The Pool Water

Do a quick round of pool water testing. The Free Chlorine level should be lower than the Total Chlorine level. This means your Combined Chlorine level is off and it’s time to shock your pool.

Also, check the pH and alkalinity levels. Make sure your pH level is between 7.4 – 7.6 and your alkalinity level is between 100 and 150 parts per million (ppm). This will balance the pool water chemistry so the shock treatment is more effective.

You can also check your calcium hardness level to make sure it’s in balance with the pH and Alkalinity. If your pool has a vinyl or fiberglass liner, the calcium hardness level should be between 175 parts per million (ppm) and 225 ppm. If you have a concrete or plaster pool, keep the level between 200 ppm and 275 ppm.

2. Pre-Dissolve Pool Shock

Carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions on your shock product. Most packages include charts or steps to help you calculate the amount of shock you need. If you need to calculate it yourself.

If you need to dissolve the shock first, fill your bucket roughly ¾ full with warm water. Add the shock to the bucket, and slowly stir until the chemical is as dissolved as possible. Work in one-pound increments.

3. Add Pool Shock To Water

If you do not need to dissolve your shock, count how many containers of shock you need. Add one bag at a time until you reach your calculated breakpoint.

At this point, make sure your pool pump and pool filter are running at full speed. This will help mix in the shock more effectively. Keep the system running for at least 8-12 hours after adding shock.

Slowly pour the shock while walking around your pool for more even distribution. (If your shock-water mix has solid particles at the bottom, dip the bucket into your pool water, carefully swish around to dissolve, and keep pouring.)

Wait to use your pool based on when you added the shock and the manufacturer’s recommendations. You don’t want to irritate your skin and eyes or bleach your swimsuit.

How to Shock a Saltwater Pool

Is it okay to shock a saltwater pool? A lot of pool owners think saltwater pools are different from traditional chlorine pools. But the salt in the water passes through a generator which turns it into chlorine. All saltwater pools are actually chlorine pools. The only benefit is that you don’t have to add the chlorine yourself. It’s being generated by your filter system.

This means you can shock your pool using the traditional shock methods outlined in this article. However, we recommend only using Dichlor or non-chlorine shock for saltwater pools.

You don’t always have to shock the pool this way. Most saltwater generators include a “super chlorinate” button that ramps up the production of the chlorine it produces helping you get to breakpoint chlorination, thereby “shocking” your pool.

And just like a traditional pool, we recommend doing this one a week or every two weeks depending on weather and usage. For heavy rain and/or high usage, shock your saltwater pool once a week.

Pool Shock Safety

Shocking your pool is a necessary part of good maintenance, but please remember those chemicals can be extremely dangerous if they’re mishandled. We’re not exaggerating the danger—improperly stored chlorine can literally explode.

• Never add shock through your pool skimmer, especially if you have an automatic chlorinator. When the shock treatment mixes with the chlorine, it causes a dangerous gas, which can lead to your chlorinator exploding! We’ve seen it happen multiple times.
• Always wear protective gear—especially goggles and chemical-resistant gloves—when handling and dissolving chlorine. Pool shock, especially calcium hypochlorite, can sometimes release small amounts of chlorine gas. Wearing protective gear can help prevent eye and skin irritation.
• Do your best to avoid directly breathing from the containers. Exposure to chlorine gas can cause throat and lung irritation. You probably don’t need a dust mask, just try not to breathe too close to the container. If it makes you feel safer, though, you can use a chemical mask.
• Never, ever mix types of pool shock. We don’t want you to become a home science experiment gone wrong. Mixing liquid chlorine or even dry chlorine granules can cause a volatile reaction. Add each chemical to your pool separately.
• Do not add shock directly to the pool water unless instructed to do so. If the package says dissolve before adding, make sure to do just that.
• Only open one container at a time. If you need to use more than one container of shock, make sure you completely empty out each container before moving on to the next one.

Frequently Asked Questions About Shocking Your Pool

Looking for more help with shocking your pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

Are chlorine and shock the same thing?

No. There are versions of shock that have chlorine, like Calcium Hypochlorite. But some pool shock treatments have no chlorine. However, you can use a high dose of liquid or granular chlorine to shock your pool.

Can I shock my pool without the pump running?

We recommend running your pump and filter when you’re actively shocking your pool and for at least 8-12 hours after. If you don’t run your pump and circulate the water, you run the risk of bleaching your pool walls and floor if you’re using chlorine shock.

Can I swim 12 hours after shocking the pool?

It’s usually safe to swim after letting the shock circulate in the water for at least 8 hours. However, we recommend testing the water’s chlorine level before swimming. A high chlorine reading may be uncomfortable and dangerous to swimmers.

Does pool shock work in cold water?

Yes, but no matter what the temperature of your pool water, we recommend dissolving shock in a bucket of warm water before adding it. This will help dissolve the shock so it doesn’t sit on the bottom of your pool and cause bleaching. Plus, it helps it to mix into the water better and faster.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Shock a Pool The Right Way appeared first on Swim University®.

A solar cover can raise and hold the water temperature of your inground, above ground, or Intex pool. It’ll also reduce your energy costs, minimize water loss, increase heat retention, and in some cases, even decrease chemical needs.

What is The Best Solar Pool Cover?

There are three types of solar covers: blankets, rings, and liquid. Here are our top picks for all three.

NOTE: These solar pool covers are available to buy on either Amazon and InTheSwim.com. Check both sites for availability. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on

For a classic solar cover that’ll not only heat your pool but will also help reduce water and chemical evaporation at night, we like this lightweight clear solar cover. Perfect for both inground and above ground swimming pools.

Our Pick

Clear Solar Blanket for Inground and Above Ground Pools (14-Mil)

$136.77

This solar blanket will increase the water temperature by about 15 degrees and prevent up to 95% of pool water and chemical evaporation. This reduction of evaporation is environmentally friendly, save you time, and money. Comes with a 6-year manufacturer warranty.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 08:38 pm GMT

If you get a lot of sun during the day, but lose heat due to colder temperatures at night, then you can use a liquid solar cover. This chemical adds a microscopic layer on your pool water surface that you can’t see or feel. And if you keep your filter system off at night, it’ll help reduce water evaporation helping you to retain the heat you gain during the day.

Our Top Pick

Natural Chemistry Cover Free Liquid Solar Cover

$29.70

Yes, liquid solar covers actually work and quite well. While they don't attract the sun's heat to your pool water, they help reduce water evaporation at night to keep the heat in your water.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy at InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 08:00 pm GMT

And finally, if taking a full solar cover on and offer your large pool is too much of a pain (and you refuse to get a solar reel), then you can use solar rings. Just toss these round discs on your pool when you’re not using it to help gain and retain heat.

Solar Rings For Pool Heating

$221.94

Solar rings are perfect for quick pool heating during the hottest months. They're easy to take on and off your pool and help reduce water evaporation and chemical use.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy at InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 03:35 pm GMT

What is a Solar Pool Cover?

With no cover at all, pool water absorbs a substantial amount of sunlight. A white plaster pool averaging 4.5 feet in depth absorbs approximately 60% of the sun’s energy. This energy will heat the pool by about 0.7°F per hour under the noontime sun.

But this heat gain is counteracted by water evaporation, which is dependent not only on water and air temperature but also wind on the pool’s surface and humidity. Evaporation would cause the same pool to lose about 5°F for every ¼-inch of water evaporated.

Solar pool covers capture the energy of the sun and transfer it directly into your pool water to keep it warm. Depending on where you live, a solar cover may not keep the water as warm as an electric or gas heater, but the tradeoff is that it can actually save you money by reducing water evaporation.

Before we continue, are you tired of fighting with your pool? You’re not alone. Most people are frustrated by their pools because they don’t know what to do or how to fix it when something goes wrong. Our comprehensive illustrated guide and video lessons will show you exactly what to do so you can get back in the water fast. Click here right now and purchase our Pool Care Video Course today!

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

Do Solar Pool Covers Really Work?

Yes! Every time you lose water, through splashing or evaporation, you have to replace it. And new water takes energy to heat. Solar pool covers help retain the heat already in the water by reducing water evaporation. And they act as a magnifying glass to amplify the sun’s warming effect on your pool water.

What Is The Best Color for a Solar Pool Cover?

Solar pool covers are available in several thicknesses. They’re measured in mil, which is the standard United States unit of measure for one-thousandth of an inch.

• Blue solar covers can measure 4 mil (very weak – lasts about 1 year) and 8 mil (heavy-duty – lasts 1 to 2 years).
• Clear solar covers can measure 12 mil (heavy-duty – lasts 3 to 4 years) and 16 mil (strongest and most durable –  lasts 5 to 10 years).

What Is The Best Thickness for a Solar Pool Cover?

After testing, we found that any solar pool cover between 12-mil and 16-mil performed best for heat retention. Higher mil solar covers absorbed more heat and were found to be more durable against the sun damage, chemical resistance, and ripping.

Our Pick

Clear Solar Blanket for Inground and Above Ground Pools (14-Mil)

$136.77

This solar blanket will increase the water temperature by about 15 degrees and prevent up to 95% of pool water and chemical evaporation. This reduction of evaporation is environmentally friendly, save you time, and money. Comes with a 6-year manufacturer warranty.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 08:38 pm GMT

How Much Do Solar Pool Covers Cost?

Solar covers are usually fairly inexpensive, but you can spend a little more for a higher-quality option. Most solar covers cost between $75 – $225. And don’t worry if you have a unique pool shape—you can trim a solar blanket to perfectly customize it to your pool.

How to Use a Solar Pool Cover

The first time you unpack it, a solar blanket may be a little unwieldy, but it’s easily fixed. First, unfold it next to the pool. Spread it out bubble-side down on top of the pool water. The bubbles keep your cover afloat while, depending on the color and type of cover, acting as little magnifying glasses to heat up your pool.

Straight out of the box, the solar blanket will probably hang out over the sides of your pool, especially if you have a uniquely shaped pool. Use multi-purpose scissors to trim the excess so the blanket fits inside the pool.

Tip: Leave a flap 2 to 3 inches long where your skimmer is so you can tuck it under the edge of the skimmer. This allows you to push debris into the skimmer before removing the blanket.

Ideally, you’ll put your solar blanket on whenever the pool is not in use. Daytime is the best time for it to heat up your water, of course, since it relies on the sun. However, keeping it on through the night prevents water and heat loss via evaporation.

Tip: Running your pump while your solar blanket is on is completely safe.

If you’re in and out of the pool throughout the day, just be sure to put it back on when you’ve finished using the pool for the day. Obviously, you’re not going to want to swim with a solar blanket on the pool, so before you get in, you’ll need to remove it.

How to Remove a Solar Cover From Your Inground or Above Ground Pool

If you have a large pool, or if you swim often, removing the solar blanket every time you want to use your pool can be quite a chore. One solution is to cut the solar blanket into smaller panels so you can remove the pieces one at a time. If you’d rather not cut the blanket up, a convenient alternative is a solar cover reel.

Good for both inground, above ground, and Intex pools, the solar reel is placed at one end of the pool. You’ll attach one end of the solar blanket to the reel, and then turn the handle or wheel. The blanket will be spooled onto the solar reel, saving you a lot of hard work.

Some solar blanket reels are available with wheels, so you can roll up your cover and then move the solar reel aside. Others come with mounting hardware to install permanently in one location. Which version works best for you will depend mostly on how much space you have around your pool.

If you don’t have a solar reel, you can pull the cover off and “accordion fold” it. Pull about four feet out, then fold that section in half. Continue pulling two-foot sections, folding each one back and forth like an accordion. This method also lets you rinse off each small section before folding, if needed.

Important: It’s very important that you always remove a solar blanket from the pool before allowing anyone to swim, especially small children and pets. Partially removing it or folding it back isn’t enough. It’s possible for them to become trapped under the blanket. It must be completely removed to avoid this risk.

Tip: If you remove the solar blanket temporarily, be sure to keep it covered or in the shade to prolong its life.

How to Properly Store Your Solar Cover

At the end of pool season, it’ll be time to break out the safety cover, and store the solar blanket. But before you do that, you must make sure the solar blanket is clean and completely dry so you don’t get a nasty, moldy surprise when you open it up next season.

To clean your solar blanket, remove it from the pool, and lay it on a soft surface like grass. Concrete can damage the bubbles, making the blanket less able to float and do its job.

Once you have it spread out flat, use a soft push broom or soft scrub brush and clean water to scrub away dirt, algae or buildup, then rinse. Dry the blanket well by hand, using a leaf blower, or hanging it up to dry.

Tip: Don’t ever leave your solar cover out to dry on your lawn. It can burn your grass.

After you wash and dry your solar blanket, reel it up. Some pool cover reels come with a weather- and UV-resistant storage cover so you can store it outside if you don’t have any indoor space for it. If your reel didn’t come with a cover, you can always pick one up.

If you’re folding your blanket up, place it in a container with a sturdy lid to keep pests out. Then store the container somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight to prevent the cover from shrinking, and the plastic container from deteriorating.

The 5 Benefits to Using a Solar Cover on Your Pool

In addition to warming your pool water, solar blankets offer some money-saving benefits.

1. Solar Covers Transfer Heat

If you laid a sheet of plain bubble wrap on top of your pool water, all the little bubbles would act as magnifying glasses and would transfer some (not a lot of) heat to the water. But regular bubble wrap is too flimsy to use for this purpose. Enter the solar blanket.

Depending on the color, opacity, and type of solar blanket you use, you could very well get some actual heating benefit from it. A light-colored, clear cover will allow the sun’s UV rays to pass through to the water, thereby heating it. A dark, opaque cover may still let some through if the material is thin, but not as many as the light, clear cover.

To get the most heat transfer from a solar blanket, look for one that is white or clear on top, with dark or black bubbles. The dark color will absorb the sun’s heat and will transfer that heat to the water they’re touching.

If heat transfer is one of your goals in buying a solar blanket, keep these features and benefits in mind so you can choose the right one for your pool:

1. Clear, bubbled blanket: allows the most sunlight and UV rays to pass through, and retains heat very well.
2. Clear on top/Dark on bottom bubbled blanket: dark bottom absorbs heat and transfers it to the water, and it retains heat well.
3. Dark, opaque, thin solar cover (no bubbles): dark cover absorbs heat and transfers it to the water, but doesn’t retain much heat.
4. White or reflective bubbled blanket: doesn’t absorb much heat, but retains it well.
5. White or reflective thin solar cover (no bubbles): doesn’t absorb heat, and doesn’t retain much heat.

Important: While it may be nice to get some heat transfer from a clear solar blanket, remember that UV rays burn off chlorine, so it’s a tradeoff. If you’re not already using stabilized chlorine, you may want to add cyanuric acid to the water to protect the chlorine.

2. Retain Heat

When the sun sets and the night air cools, a lot of the heat your pool gained during the day is lost. A solar blanket floating on the water keeps some of that heat from dissipating. And if you couple a gas or electric pool heater with a solar blanket, the heater won’t need to run as long to keep your pool temperature steady.

3. Reduce Evaporation

A solar blanket can cut evaporation by about 95 percent.

4. Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Although it’s not one of their primary purposes, solar blankets do shield your pool from bugs and debris such as leaves and twigs. If your blanket does trap debris, use a hand skimmer to scoop it out before removing the cover.

The more debris you can keep out of your pool water, the less you have to run your pump on high to vacuum, and the more you can save in energy costs.

5. Lower Chemical Costs

When water evaporates from your pool, you don’t just lose water—you also lose some of the chemicals you use to treat that water. By using a solar blanket, you can prevent 35 to 60 percent of your pool water chemicals from disappearing into thin air.

Imagine spending half as much money on chemicals every year. That savings alone would likely more than cover the cost of a solar blanket.

Solar Sun Rings For Inground and Above Ground Swimming Pools

If a solar blanket seems like too much of a hassle to put on, take off, and store during the swimming season, you may prefer solar rings or squares. These can even be decorative because some of them have patterns and images such as palm trees printed on them, while others come in fun shapes such as flowers.

Solar rings are sold individually for around $25 to $35 each, or in sets for around $140 to $160 or more, depending on how many rings come in the set. The number you need to cover your pool’s surface will depend on the sizes of both your pool and the rings.

Solar Rings For Pool Heating

$221.94

Solar rings are perfect for quick pool heating during the hottest months. They're easy to take on and off your pool and help reduce water evaporation and chemical use.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy at InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 03:35 pm GMT

How to Use Solar Rings: They’re Not Just for Looks

Unlike the solar blanket’s air-filled bubbles, solar rings are flat and must be inflated before you place them on the water. You’ll inflate the inner portion only slightly, and the outer portion until it’s firm, the way you’d blow up a balloon. Then simply place them on the water and let them do their job.

Some solar sun rings have magnets around the circumference of the outer portion. This not only helps the rings stay connected to each other, thereby reducing gaps, it also keeps them from overlapping and leaving even more water exposed.

It’s important to note that neither solar sun rings nor squares will cover every inch of your pool water. There will be gaps, even when they’re connected by their magnets. It’s for this reason that solar rings and squares are not as effective as a solar blanket at either heating your pool water or preventing evaporation.

Tip: You can continue to run your pump while solar rings are on the pool.

How to Remove Solar Rings

This is where you’ll see an advantage over the solar blanket. Solar rings are extremely easy to remove from the pool, no reel required. It’s just a matter of detaching the magnets, scooping the rings from the water, and you’re done!

How to Properly Store Solar Rings

For temporary storage, such as when you’re swimming but you’ll be putting the rings back on the pool later, you can simply stack them near the pool. Keep them out of the wind, though, or they may end up all over the pool deck and yard.

Some rings and squares have loops on the outer portion so you can hang them up while you swim.

When the swimming season is over, long-term storage is easy, too. Once you have the rings out of the water, spray them off and, if necessary, use a soft push broom or brush to clear any debris from them. Do this before you deflate them to make sure nothing gets trapped in any folds or wrinkles.

Next, dry them completely. It will be easiest to do this by hand. Taking a leaf blower to solar rings may just blow them right back into the pool, or into the neighbor’s yard. While that might be entertaining, it won’t be efficient. (Actually, you’ll find a leaf blower can come in handy for a lot of pool-related cleaning tasks.)

Once they’re dry, deflate them, flatten them, and store them in their storage bag (if they came with one), or in a container with a lid. Keep the bag or container in a cool, dry place.

Regardless of how and where you store them, just be sure to keep them out of direct sunlight, and away from abrasive surfaces.

Solar Ring Benefits

In addition to having some of the same benefits as a solar blanket, and aside from being much easier to deploy and remove from the pool, solar rings and squares offer one major advantage over the blanket.

When they’re on the water, if a child or pet (or anyone) happens to fall into the water, solar rings will break apart on impact, and will not form a solid barrier that can make it difficult to come to the surface.

Reduce Water Evaporation

While they’re not as efficient as a solar blanket, they can still reduce pool water evaporation by about 50 percent, which can still save you money on water, chemicals, and heating.

Heat Retention and Lower Heating Costs

Even though they don’t cover the entire surface of the inground or above ground swimming pool, they do still help the water retain some heat overnight as well.

Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Finally, they may catch some bugs and debris here and there, but probably not enough to make a noticeable difference in your cleaning time. Take care to scoop debris out of them before removing the solar rings from the pool so the debris doesn’t fall into the water during removal.

Again, less debris in the water can save pump and vacuuming time, which saves money.

Lower Chemical Costs

You may still see some reduced chemical use with solar rings But remember that once again, the savings won’t be as large as you might get with a solar blanket since the rings don’t completely cover the surface of the water.

Note: A solar cover option very similar to rings and squares is solar mats. They’re flat and do not require inflation. Most of them spring open and twist closed, just like a windshield sun shade. Their use, care, and benefits are pretty much identical to solar rings and squares.

Liquid Solar Cover: The Future Is Now

Is it really possible that you could pour something into your pool water that magically warms it up? Yup. That’s basically how liquid solar cover works. Except it’s not magic; it’s more science!

Liquid solar cover contains aliphatic alcohols, which form a monolayer film on the surface of the water, thereby requiring upwardly escaping water molecules to expend energy in forcing adjacent molecular chains sufficiently apart to pass between them

In plain English? A one-molecule-thick layer of fatty alcohol sits on the surface of the water, inhibiting the water’s ability to evaporate normally. Preventing evaporation prevents heat loss, and voilà! Your pool stays warmer than if you had no solar cover at all.

Liquid solar cover ranges in price from about $10 to about $30 or more, depending on brand and whether you buy a single container or a pack of multiple containers.

Our Top Pick

Natural Chemistry Cover Free Liquid Solar Cover

$29.70

Yes, liquid solar covers actually work and quite well. While they don't attract the sun's heat to your pool water, they help reduce water evaporation at night to keep the heat in your water.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy at InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/27/2023 08:00 pm GMT

How to Use Liquid Solar Cover

In addition to bottles, you can also find liquid solar cover in special dispersal packets, sometimes shaped like a cute little fish. Usually, you’ll just make a small cut in the dispersal packet, and set it free in the pool. Follow the instructions to be sure you add enough packets for your pool.

For bottled liquid solar cover, simply measure out the appropriate amount according to the volume of your pool, and pour it in. That’s it. Really.

We like to add enough liquid solar cover to last for a month, but always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for optimal performance. If you have a lot of splashout, heavy rain, or extremely dry conditions you may need to add liquid solar cover more often.

Tip: You can run your pump as usual with liquid solar cover in the pool.

You Can Remove Liquid Solar Cover, But Why?

Although we can’t think of any reason why you’d want to, the only way to remove liquid solar cover from your pool water would be to drain the pool and refill it, and no one wants to do that if it can be avoided.

The thing is, if you decided to stop using liquid solar cover for any reason, all you have to do is wait a while. The chemical naturally dissipates over a certain period of time, depending on how large your pool is and how much liquid solar cover you have to use.

For this reason, for as long as you want to use it, liquid solar cover must be added to your pool on a regular basis, so be sure to add it to your swimming pool maintenance schedule.

Liquid Solar Cover Benefits

Just like any other chemical, you add to your pool water, liquid solar cover is completely safe for people and pets. It won’t irritate your skin (although there may be exceptions in those who have extreme sensitivities), and it doesn’t leave any residue on you or your swimsuit.

Note: While it’s not a good idea for your pet to drink pool water on a regular basis, liquid solar cover is safe for the occasional sip or two your dog might decide to take when you’re not looking. Always check the safety notes for the brand you choose before using it, and before letting your pets into the pool.

Reduce Water Evaporation

You can cut water evaporation by about 15 percent with a liquid solar cover. Does it really work? Absolutely. We even tested it.

Heat Retention and Lower Heating Costs

Liquid solar covers are about 75 percent as effective as solar blankets at retaining heat. But remember, it works constantly without your having to remember to cover the pool at night.

This may be a tradeoff for never having to reel in, clean, and store liquid solar cover, though.

Keep Bugs and Debris Out

Well, here’s one area where solar blankets and rings are the clear winner. Of course, liquid solar cover isn’t going to keep bugs, leaves, and other debris out of your pool.

If you opt to use this heating method, you’ll have to stay on top of things with your handheld skimmer and vacuum.

Lower Chemical Costs

Nope, we’re actually adding a chemical cost with this one. But it’s (we think) an affordable one that offers a good return on that investment.

How to Save Money While Heating Your Pool Water

Now you know how each type of solar cover works, a few benefits of using them, and the best way to do so. But wait! There’s more! We’ve got a few extra tips to help you save even more money.

• Run your filter during the hottest part of the day. This can help mitigate heat loss from evaporation. However, you’ll need to weigh this practice against power use during peak hours.
• Remove your solar blanket or rings before shocking your pool. The high concentration of chlorine will damage them.
• Prevent additional water evaporation due to wind by creating a windbreak around your pool. The higher the wind speed above your water, the more water will evaporate. Disrupt the wind with a pool cage, plants, patio furniture, or privacy screens.
• Run water features only when you’re around to enjoy them. Vanishing edge swimming pools and waterfalls can double your water evaporation rate because they create more surface area by constantly moving the water.

Invest in a Solar Pool Cover

While it won’t heat your inground or above ground pool as much as a traditional electric or gas heater will, any type of solar pool cover will keep more heat—and more water—in your pool.

But it doesn’t have to be a one or the other choice. You can use any kind of solar pool cover in tandem with an electric or gas heater, which will help you save money on utilities, water replacement, and pool chemicals. For such a modest upfront investment, you can’t afford not to have one.

Happy Swimming!

The post The Best Solar Pool Covers appeared first on Swim University®.

You’ll find a few robotic cleaners for less than $500, but most cost between $500 and $1,000. While the inexpensive models will get the job done, premium models have convenient features like waterline scrubbing, remote controls, and programmable cleaning cycles.

But how do pool owners choose the best robotic pool cleaner? What features do you need to look for? What do you need to know before you buy one?

The Best Robotic Pool Cleaner for Inground Pools

Our Top Pick

Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus Robotic Pool Cleaner

Ideal for swimming pools up to 50 feet. Cleans large pools in just 2 hours. Includes dual scrubbing brushes and a built-in schedule using 3 settings: every day, every other day, or every 3rd day.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

This cleaner continues to dominate and remains the king of robotic pool cleaners in our opinion.

Instead of relying on random patterns to navigate your pool, this robotic cleaner scans your pool to optimize its path around your pool floor and walls.

The Dolphin Nautilus has dual scrubbing brushes which provide more friction to pick up both large and small debris. It works best in pools up to 50 feet long, and the cord has swiveling technology to keep it from getting tangled. The filters are also simple to remove, empty, rinse, and reload.

The Best Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Ground Pools

Our Top Pick

Dolphin E10 Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Grounds

$599.00

Designed for above ground swimming pools up to 30 feet. It takes less than 2 hours to clean your pool with built-in water filtering and scrubbing.

Buy Now on Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

01/28/2023 03:02 am GMT

The Dolphin e10 pool cleaner not only looks cool, but it’s also affordable too!  It takes all the power of an inground robotic pool cleaner and puts it in a smaller package that’ll clean your entire pool in two hours or less.

And Dolphin cleaners are super energy efficient. The average operating costs are about $0.05 an hour.

NOTE: These automatic robotic pool cleaners are available to buy on either Amazon and InTheSwim.com. Check both sites for availability. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

How Does A Robotic Pool Cleaner Work?

These powerful little machines pick up debris of all sizes. Even better, they don’t attach to your pool circulation system at all, so they don’t rely on your pool filter. They run on good, old electricity. That’s right—you plug them in, and then put them in the water. Sounds counterintuitive, right?

They run on very low voltage, so they’re submersible. They have very long power cords that can only be plugged into ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. Those are the outlets that will automatically shut off if any electrical imbalance is detected, so you won’t get shocked.

Some models are also “double insulated,” which means they’re designed to work safely without the grounding prong plug. However, for safety’s sake, it’s best if you plug those into a GFCI outlet too.

A robotic pool cleaner drives around your pool, scrubbing the walls and floor with little brushes and vacuuming up everything from silt to acorns. Most models will clean your pool floor and walls, while some can even scrub the waterline around your pool. Because they’re not hooked into your filter system. Robotic cleaners have a filter bag or built-in cartridge for debris collection.

BONUS: Robotic Pool Cleaners also improve water circulation and act as a second filter to your pool. As water is pulled into the cleaner, debris is collected into a bag that can filter the water down to 2 microns for a really clean pool.

Why Robotic Cleaners Are Better Than Pressure-Side and Suction-Side Pool Cleaners

Suction-Side Pool Cleaners attach to your pool skimmer. It uses the suction of your pump and filter to power the cleaner around your pool and pick up debris from the floor. These are the least expensive of the automatic pool cleaners. But because they rely on your filter system, a lot can go wrong if you’re not around to watch it.

Pressure-Side Pool Cleaners (like a Polaris 360 or Polaris 65) attach to one of the return jets in your pool. They use water pressure from your pump and filter to move the cleaner around your pool. It also creates a water vortex vacuum to pull debris into its own filter bag. This cleaner also relies on your filtration system, but at least it has its own filter bag, so a lot less can go wrong.

Robotic pool cleaners are the best of both cleaners. They clean your pool without the use of your filter system. And they use suction instead of pressure and collect dirt and debris in its own filter bag inside.

If you wanna learn more about all the different types of automatic pool cleaners, when you use them, and which one will work best for your pool, invest in our pool maintenance video course. Not only does it include lessons on automatic pool cleaners, but it’ll also show you how to master pool chemistry, cleaning, and troubleshooting.

The 10 Best Features to Look For in a Robotic Pool Cleaner

1. Lightweight

While the size of a pool cleaner doesn’t matter, the weight does. Sure, the bigger the pool the bigger the robot, but you need to make sure you can lift it to get it in and out of the pool. If the pool cleaner is too heavy, you’ll have a hard time caring for it—and your pool—without a little help.

2. Wide Tires and Four Wheel Drive

No, you won’t be taking it off-roading. But a pool cleaner can’t do its job if it can’t get around your pool. We recommend four-wheel drive and wide tires made of rubber—not plastic—so the cleaner can easily get over bumps and won’t have any trouble navigating slippery surfaces along the sides and bottom of your pool.

3. Swivel Cord

Unfortunately, you can’t escape the need for cords with a pool cleaner. Because it’ll be moving around your pool and climbing vertical walls and even stairs, the cord can easily tangle, keeping the cleaner from moving. A swivel cord can help prevent tangles and give your robotic pool cleaner the freedom of movement it needs.

4. High-Quality Brushes

Removing the dirt and debris from your pool is hard work, and pool cleaners accomplish it with brushes. We recommend hard-bristle brushes or rotating rubber brushes that can scrub dirt from almost any surface in your pool.

5. Programmable Timer

The whole point of a pool cleaner is to make your life easier. If you have to go out and start it every time you want it to run, it takes away the automation and ease of use. The best cleaners come with programmable timers so you can set it and forget it. Just don’t forget to clean it out once in awhile. Even a cleaner needs to be cleaned!

6. Climbing Ability

Ideally, you want a robotic pool cleaner that’s good at climbing. The best ones can easily climb the sides of your pool, clean the waterline, and even climb your pool’s stairs (if you have them) to do a thorough job.

7. Deflecting Features and Sensors

One of the most frustrating things about robotic pool cleaners is that they can get stuck in corners from time to time. Some of them come with deflecting features that help prevent the robot from getting stuck in a corner or on other obstacles.

8. Efficient Pool Cleaning Cycles

Every pool cleaner has a different pool cleaning cycle, with some lasting longer than others. Ideally, you want one that can clean your pool as quickly and efficiently as possible while still doing a good job. Some cleaners come with multiple cycles for different levels of pool cleaning.

9. Durability

Pool cleaners can be expensive, so you’ll want one made from high-quality materials that will last. Eventually, you may have to repair it, but you shouldn’t need to do that for at least a few swimming seasons. Read your warranty before using your cleaner so you know what to do if it fails.

10. Energy Efficiency

The size of your pool cleaner will determine how much energy it uses. You can expect smaller cleaners to consume around 200 watts of power per hour. Larger units will use more, but try to avoid models that use more than 1,000 watts per hour as they’ll cost more to operate over time.

How Long Do Robotic Pool Cleaners Last?

Once you find the best pool cleaner for you, make sure to take good care of it. It’s the only way to avoid an eventual robot uprising. Oh, wait—different kind of robot.

But taking care of your machine will keep it running well so it can do its job for a good, long time. Always read any instructions that come with the device before you let it loose in your pool. At the very least, perform some general care to keep it functioning well.

• Take the cleaner out of your pool once its cycle is complete. It’ll help preserve the motor and make your pool a safer place to swim.
• Drain the cleaner of water according to manufacturer instructions.
• Wash your pool cleaner after every use. That means checking the brushes and wheels for debris as well as emptying and rinsing the filter.
• Keep an eye on the wear of your brushes, and replace them when they get worn down. Think of it as getting a new toothbrush for your swimming pool.
• Store your cleaner out of direct sunlight.
• If you notice the cord becomes kinked over time, wrap it in the opposite direction than you usually do when storing.
• Replace worn brushes promptly to ensure optimal cleaning power.

Caring for your cleaner doesn’t have to be hard. Some minor maintenance pales in comparison to the hours of cleaning it’ll save you.

Are Robotic Pool Cleaners Worth It?

Bottom Line: Yes! Robotic pool cleaners are 100% worth the investment. It’ll be the best money you ever spent on your swimming pool.

Any automatic swimming pool cleaner should be able to clean your pool within about three hours, depending on your pool’s size. Its performance can be affected significantly by routine maintenance, such as keeping filters clean and valve settings optimized.

Even if you check every element of your cleaner after every use, the time and work involved in keeping it in tip-top shape will be insignificant compared to the time you’re currently spending bent over your poolside, scrubbing with a brush.

The only thing you’ve got to lose by investing in an automatic pool cleaner is that pain in your back.

Happy Swimming!

The post The Best Robotic Pool Cleaners appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s a simple guide on how to get rid of hot tub foam. You can watch the quick video below or keep reading for a complete hot tub foam tutorial.

What Causes Foam in a Hot Tub?

Maybe you’ve seen seafoam for yourself. Seafoam is fundamentally the same as hot tub foam, just with a slightly different chemical makeup.

For foam to appear, it needs three things: water, air, and surfactants. If you’re not a chemistry geek, surfactants are basically super-sticky molecules that reduce the surface tension of a liquid, which makes it easier for substances like oil and water to mix.

Your hot tub contains water and some surfactants, even if you properly maintain your chemistry. But if you slip a little on your maintenance schedule or don’t clear the water after a big hot tub party, you might flip on your jets—unlocking that final ingredient—and find yourself with a foamy mess.

Because the surfactants often end up creating a thin layer of water in between themselves, they tend to push the water molecule into a ball, and suddenly you have a bubble. The more surfactants you have, the more stacking you get, and the more bubbles you get. The final result? Hot Tub Foam!

If you want to skip to solving foam in your hot tub, you can pick up some of our exclusive 3-in-1 hot tub water clarifier and conditioner called Weekly Cleanse. Not only will it help eliminate foam, but it’ll also keep your water crystal clear.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Weekly Cleanse: Water Conditioner & Clarifier

Keep it always feeling like new between Detoxes with our one-time-a-week treatment that combines hot tub cleaner, conditioner, and clarifier to give your hot tub water a soft & silky feel plus sparkling clean water!

Buy Now On Swim University

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The Main Surfactant Culprits In Your Hot Tub

If you regularly maintain your hot tub chemistry, your spa water is thoroughly mixed with sanitizing chemicals and calcium, which help neutralize surfactants and prevent them from creating bubbles.

But if you miss even just a couple of maintenance days, surfactants build up from three main sources.

1. Personal Care Products

Makeup, conditioner, shampoo, mousse, hairspray, lotion, and deodorant can make your sanitizing chemicals work overtime and eventually wreak sudsy havoc. The more of these products you use—say, you have long hair that requires more styling products—the more likely it is that surfactants will build up in your hot tub.

Laundry detergent and soap are also major culprits. Yes, we need to wash our swimsuits, but any leftover detergent in the fabric can really mess with your water’s chemical balance.

2. Beverages

You might enjoy a glass of wine, a beer, a fancy tropical concoction, or even just a soda with your weekend soak. Nothing wrong with that, but you may want to keep beverages away from the hot tub.

Spilling alcoholic or sugary beverages in your carefully tended water can lead to foaming. Plus, who wants to clean up a sticky mess on the edges of a spa, anyway?

3. Human Bodies

When you get down to it, the things the human body can produce are kind of gross. Oils and dead skin cells are all over us whether we like it or not. But that’s why we have sanitizing chemicals in our hot tubs.

If your sanitizing agents are overburdened with body oil and dead proteins, you’re probably going to have a problem with foam in your hot tub.

A Warning About Cheap Hot Tub Chemicals

We all love saving money, but sometimes the savings just aren’t worth it. This is especially true with cheap hot tub chemicals.

They may not be as effective or as concentrated as more expensive options, which means you’ll have to use more to make sure your hot tub is clean. Which means you have to buy more. And then you use more. It’s a vicious cycle.

Even worse, those cheap chemicals could actually cause a buildup of surfactants and a whole slew of other water chemistry problems. That means you’ll have to spend more money on corrective treatments, more time cleaning your hot tub, and less time actually enjoying it.

Good hot tub chemicals aren’t a splurge—they’re an investment. Get the best you can, and save yourself the headache. After all, a hot tub is all about relaxation.

How to Get Rid of Foam in a Hot Tub

Got foam? That’s OK. While clearing a hot tub full of foam may seem like an impossible, messy task, it’s actually pretty simple.

1. Test Your Water

Before you do anything corrective, test your water to find out what your pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels are, as well as check for total dissolved solids (TDS)—these are the surfactants. Knowing what your water chemistry looks like after foaming can help you understand how to avoid the problem in the future.

Another thing to note is low calcium hardness may cause foam in your hot tub. Low calcium can cause other problems, too, like corrosion and etching on your finishes, so it’s important to regularly test these levels as well.

Our Top Pick

SpaGuard Chlorinating Concentrate

Easy to add chlorine to your hot tub with granules (powder) and a cap that's perfect for measuring the amounts you add.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

2. Drain and Refill

Once you’ve tested your water and made note of all the chemical levels, the best thing you can do to get rid of the foam is drain and clean your hot tub. If you have enough surfactants in your water to cause foaming, you may also need to do a line flush and replace your filters.

Since you need to drain your hot tub anyway, this is the perfect time to perform a hot tub deep clean as well.

Basic Steps to Drain Your Hot Tub

1. Use a line flush product, as needed, according to the package directions.
2. Remove the filters. Depending on how dirty they are, you can either clean them with a cartridge filter cleaner spray or replace them.
3. Turn off the power to your hot tub, disconnect anything electrical, and trip the breaker.
4. Drain your hot tub using a sump pump or the drain plug.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Filter Cleaner

Spray Filter Cleanse on your hot tub filters, rinse with water, and your filters will look brand new in less than 20 minutes! Hot Tub Filter Cleanse is a powerful, fast-acting spray cleaner that removes body oils, lotions, and other organic materials from your hot tub filter cartridges.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Basic Steps to Clean and Refill Your Hot Tub

1. Once your hot tub is entirely drained, wipe down the interior surface with a mixture of one part white vinegar to four parts water. Or you can use hot tub cleaner.
2. Thoroughly rinse the inside of your hot tub and wipe it down.
3. Make sure to remove all traces of cleaner. Otherwise, you’ll end up with foamy water again!
4. Replace your filters.
5. Refill your hot tub. We recommend you use a hose filter attached to your garden hose to prevent chemical impurities.

After you’ve drained, cleaned, and refilled your hot tub, test the water, add chemicals, and allow the water to circulate for at least a day. When the circulation is complete, test the water one more time to ensure it’s ready for soaking.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Detox: Hot Tub Cleaner & Purge

Don't let your hot tub fill with hard-to-remove gunk. Clear out the gunk and keep your hot tub water fresh. It removes gunk in your pipes caused by lotions, sunscreens, cosmetics, etc.

Kills bacteria inside the pipes for maximum effect.

Buy Now On Swim University

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

For Quick Fixes: Anti-Foam Chemicals

Say you’ve got a party coming up and not enough time to go through all the steps to correct a foamy hot tub. You can buy a foam remover chemical, which will get rid of the foam in your hot tub almost instantly and can last for up to 24 hours.

Remember, foam remover chemicals do not address the cause of foam in your hot tub. It just relieves the problem for a little while. You’ll still need to drain and refill your hot tub to get rid of the foam for good.

Besides, knowing what you know now about the makeup of hot tub foam, do you really want to soak in that? Didn’t think so.

Leisure Time Hot Tub Foam Remover - 32 oz.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

How to Prevent Hot Tub Foam

• Shower before soaking in the hot tub to remove any soap residue, makeup, or deodorant. It doesn’t have to be a full shower. Just a quick rinse is enough.
• Rinse your clean bathing suit with fresh water before getting in your hot tub.
• Avoid dunking your head underwater unless you’re sure your hair is free (or as free as possible) of natural oils, conditioner, and styling products. If you or one of your guests has long hair, tuck it in a baseball cap or pull it into a bun to keep it out of the water.This goes for beards too.
• Keep sugary or alcoholic drinks away from the hot tub. This eliminates the chance of something spilling in the water.
• Buy your chemicals from a trusted source, even if you end up paying a little more. You’ll thank yourself in the long run.
• Maintain a regular hot tub maintenance schedule. This includes weekly or biweekly water testing and a full hot tub draining and cleaning every three to four months.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Water Care Kit

Our kit makes taking care of your water easy and lasts 6-8 months. It includes two (2) bottles of Hot Tub Weekly Cleanse to keep your hot tub water clear and one (1) bottle of Hot Tub Detox, which includes two treatments every 3-4 months for deep cleaning.

Buy Now

Leave the Bubbles for the Bathtub

Waking up to a foamy spa might feel a little nightmarish, but correcting foam in a hot tub is relatively simple. Once you have a clean hot tub and freshwater, preventing foam in the future will be easy. Just remember to avoid adding things that make your sanitizing chemicals work overtime and keep a regular maintenance schedule.

These simple steps mean more time to spend in your relaxing, foam-free hot tub.

Happy Soaking!

The post How to Get Rid of Foam in a Hot Tub appeared first on Swim University®.

Pool Volume Calculator

Pool Volume Calculator Click on your pool shape to calculate the volume of water.

Rectangle

Round

Get Pool Volume

Get Pool Volume

Note: The calculator rounds up decimal points, which makes it easier to calculate chemical dosing. But the rounding isn’t enough to throw off your water chemistry calculations.

If you have a more complicated shaped pool, you’ll need to run a few other calculations. We cover how to calculate the volume of an irregular-shaped pool at the end of this guide.

Pool Volume Reference Chart

You can use the pool volume reference chart below to quickly calculate the volume of these common pool sizes.

Note: These are estimates. You’ll always get more accurate results if you measure your pool yourself. And always measure the depth of your water, not the height of your wall.

By the way, if you’re struggling with knowing which pool chemicals to add and when, be sure to check out our Pool Care Video Course. It’s an easy-to-follow guide to help you keep your pool clean and clear.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

How to Calculate Pool Volume Step-By-Step

If you need to calculate the volume of an irregular-shaped pool or you’re still feeling confused, check out our video that walks you through how to calculate the volume of water in your pool. Or keep reading for a complete walk-through on these calculations.

Pool Volume Calculation Basics

To get your pool’s volume, you need to calculate your pool’s surface area and average depth. And to do that, you’ll need a few basic metrics:

• Length (L)
• Width (W)
• Depth (D) or Height (H)
• Diameter (d) (for round pools)
• Radius (r) (for round pools)
• Pi (3.14 constant)

Multiply the length and width to get the surface area of a rectangular pool. Then throw in your pool’s depth and you’ll get basic volume calculation.

Another key part of your equation: one cubic foot of water contains 7.5 gallons. So in order to figure out how many gallons your pool holds, you’ll multiply your final cubic foot measurement by 7.5 to find the volume of your pool.

Let’s see what this looks like with different pool shapes.

Rectangular Pool Volume

How you calculate your volume will depend on how the bottom of your pool is laid out.

Constant Depth

The formula for finding the volume of a rectangular pool with one depth (no shallow or deep end) is L × W × D × 7.5 = V (in gallons).

For example, if your swimming pool is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide, and 4 feet deep:

• 32 × 16 × 4 × 7.5 = 15,360 gallons

Variable Depths with a Gradual Slope

If your rectangular pool has more than one depth (shallow end, deep end), you’ll need to do a little more math. First, determine the pool’s average depth. Add the shallow end depth to the deep end depth, and divide by 2.

For example, if your pool’s shallow end is 3 feet, and the deep end is 9 feet, the average depth is 6 feet.

Next, multiply your pool’s length and width and then multiply that number by the average depth. Finally, multiply that figure by 7.5 to calculate the volume of the pool in gallons.

For example, if your pool is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide, and has an average depth of 6 feet:

• 32 × 16 × 6 × 7.5 = 23,040 gallons

Variable Depths with a Drop-Off

If your pool has a definitive drop between the shallow and deep ends, the average depth will be different, even if the shallow end and deep end are still, for example, 3 feet and 9 feet, respectively.

Treat the shallow and deep ends as separate pools. This will allow you to apply the volume of each section using the constant depth formula.

Once you have the volumes of both parts, simply add them together to determine the volume for the whole pool.

Round or Circular Pool Volume

The formula for finding the volume in gallons of a round pool is 3.14 × r2 × D × 7.5 = V (in gallons)

Start by measuring your pool’s diameter, which is measured at its widest point across (i.e. your pool’s length). Then divide the diameter by 2 to get the radius.

Your radius squared is the radius multiplied by the radius. Finally, measure the pool’s depth.

For example, if your pool’s diameter is 18 feet, your radius is 9 feet, and your depth is 4 feet:

• 3.14 × (9 x 9) × 4 x 7.5 = 7630.2 gallons

Irregular-Shaped Pool Volume

If you have an oval, kidney shape, or other irregular-shaped pool, you can still calculate the volume. You’ll just have to do even more math.

The easiest way to calculate an oddly shaped pool is to imagine it broken down into two or three smaller, regularly shaped parts. Try to see smaller, individual squares, rectangles, or circles within the larger, irregular shape.

Once you’ve mapped them out, measure each part. Then use the same formulae above to calculate the volume in each smaller section. Finally, add all the volume figures together, and you’ll have a pretty close approximation of the pool’s total volume.

When To Ask a Professional to Measure Your Pool

If the swimming pool volume calculator or calculations don’t work properly for you because you have an unusual pool shape, or you just want everything to be more accurate, ask a pool professional to take the measurements and figure out the volume for you.

Remember, before you add any chemicals to your pool water, you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pool. Knowing your pool volume is not only critical for adding the right amount of chemicals, it’s absolutely necessary if you’re installing a new pool pump, pool filter, or pool heater. And keep these calculations handy for future reference. You’ll need them often as a pool owner!

The post Pool Volume Calculator: How Many Gallons of Water Does Your Pool Hold? appeared first on Swim University®.

With those criteria in mind, our picks for the best pool alarms are the PoolGuard PGRM-2 Alarm (Inground) or the PoolEye Immersion Alarm (Above Ground). Because these two alarms are immersable, they’re more reliable at sensing disturbances in your water and they’re less likely to trigger false alarms.

However, if you have smaller pets (under 15 pounds) or you want a portable alarm for a smaller pool or hot tub, the Pool Patrol PA-30 Alarm (Floating) is a better option.

For more information about how these alarms work and what features to look for, you can watch the quick video tutorial below. Or keep reading for our complete guide to alarms for pools and our recommendations.

FYI: We’re a small team of pool industry experts and researchers that care about recommending quality, reliable pool products. If you choose to click a link and buy any of the products we recommend, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The Best Alarm for Inground Pools

Our Top Pick

PoolGuard In-Ground Pool Alarm

Installed at the edge of your pool, this battery-powered alarm is tamper-proof and simple to operate. It's equipped with an in-house remote receiver to help alert you both at the pool and in your home.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The PoolGuard PGRM-2 Inground Alarm is completely tamper-proof and simple to use. Installed at the edge of your pool with a submersible arm, the PoolGuard reliably detects anything entering your water that’s 18 pounds and greater. It can also help detect slow entry into the water if your pool has beach entry.

With an in-house remote receiver, this alarm will sound both at the swimming pool and in your home, giving you peace of mind that you’ll be notified of any disturbances.

It runs on a 9V battery, making it simple to set up. And it’s perfect for larger inground pools (up to 20 feet by 40 feet). This alarm also meets ASTM standards for swimming pool alarms.

Be mindful that this is a permanent installation made for larger pools and only designed for detecting objects 18 pounds and greater.

The Best Alarm for Above Ground Pools

Our Top Pick

PoolEye Above Ground Pool Immersion Alarm

This pool alarm is perfect for smaller pools and very easy to install. With an adjustable sensitivity switch and sub-surface wave detection, you'll have fewer false alarms from rain or wind while still keeping your family safe.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The PoolEye Above Ground Pool Alarm is perfect for 24-foot or smaller pools and extremely easy to install. Its underwater motion sensor uses subsurface wave detection, so it won’t trigger false alarms from rain or wind. However, this alarm is reliable and sensitive when it needs to be. It’s triggered when it detects an object as light as 15 pounds, which makes it a safer option for smaller pets and or animals. And the adjustable sensitivity switch allows you to customize your alarm’s responsiveness.

The PoolEye alarm is battery-powered and installs under the top ledge or railing of your pool. While it emits a loud, high-pitched siren sound at the pool, it does not come with an in-house receiver. So remember to check your local pool safety codes before you buy. Like all the alarms on our list, this alarm does meet ASTM standards.

Do Pool Alarms Really Work?

Yes, they do. But certain types of alarms are more effective and reliable than others. While pool alarms are an important tool to keep your pool safe, you’ll also want to consider adding other layers of protection and detection, like a gate alarm.

Pool alarms use sensors in the water to detect when something like a child or pet unexpectedly enters your pool. A floating pool alarm detects ripples and motion on your pool’s surface. Other alarms are immersed underwater where they detect motion or water that’s been displaced because something has gotten in your pool.

Why Should You Install an Alarm For Your Pool?

Most of the hundreds of pool-related accidents and drownings that happen each year could have been prevented with the right safety precautions. And in some states, alarm systems for pools are actually required by law.

Before you buy an alarm, be sure to check your local codes and the federal pool safety guidelines so you’re in compliance with the laws where you live.

What’s the Best Type of Pool Alarm?

There are two types of pool alarms to choose from: subsurface alarms (underwater) and surface wave alarms (floating). Threshold alarms, like door and gate alarms, help protect the enclosure around your pool.

Each type of alarm works a little differently, and they can be used in tandem to make your pool even safer:

• Floating surface wave alarms float on the surface of your pool and measure water disturbances, like ripples, waves, or water displacement. When it detects a disturbance, an alarm will sound and alert you to possible danger. Because they float, they’re easy to set up, portable, and work in inflatable pools. However, they’re more susceptible to trigger false alarms and a single floating alarm won’t cover a larger pool.
• Subsurface alarms connect to your pool’s edge or railing where it’s immersed underwater. This alarm senses disturbances in water displacement and can even detect shallow beach entry. A subsurface or immersion pool alarm is more consistent and reliable than a surface alarm, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. However, it’s a permanent installation in your pool and most models only detect objects that are 15-18 pounds or greater.
• Threshold alarms, like a door alarm or a gate alarm, alert you when someone has entered the pool area. These alarms help keep your pool enclosure protected and the area around your pool safe from unexpected entry.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, subsurface sensor alarms are the most effective. Compared to surface wave sensor alarms, subsurface alarms are more reliable and less likely to trigger false alarms.

That’s why we recommend using a subsurface alarm and a threshold alarm together for a more complete alarm system. This combination will alert you if anything has gotten into your pool enclosure (threshold alarm) OR if anything significant has fallen into the water (subsurface alarm).

A surface wave alarm is still a great option, especially if you have animals under 15 pounds or an inflatable pool or hot tub. These sensitive alarms are better for smaller pools but they may be triggered by wind, rain, or moving water near your skimmer.

The Best Subsurface Sensor Alarms

One of the most effective and reliable types of pool alarms, subsurface sensors are permanent installations in your pool. Once installed, the sensing arm extends down into the water and constantly monitors for water disturbances.

Our Top Pick

PoolGuard In-Ground Pool Alarm

Installed at the edge of your pool, this battery-powered alarm is tamper-proof and simple to operate. It's equipped with an in-house remote receiver to help alert you both at the pool and in your home.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

This sleek-looking PoolGuard PGRM-2 Inground Pool Alarm comes with an in-house remote receiver. You’ll need to drill a small hole in your pool deck for installation. Then the alarm sits on the edge of your pool, partly submerged in the water. If it detects any disturbances, the alarm will sound at the pool and through the in-house receiver.

When the sensing arm is in the water, the alarm is always active. So whenever you want to use your pool, simply set the alarm to sleep mode and remove the sensing arm from the water. As soon as you put it back into your pool, it’s activated, eliminating the possibility of forgetting to turn it back on. It also meets ASTM standards.

Our Top Pick

PoolEye Above Ground Pool Immersion Alarm

This pool alarm is perfect for smaller pools and very easy to install. With an adjustable sensitivity switch and sub-surface wave detection, you'll have fewer false alarms from rain or wind while still keeping your family safe.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

If you have an above ground pool, the PoolEye Above Ground Pool Alarm is a great option that requires no drilling. Simply remove a section of your rail to install the sensor. Then slip it right back on. It’s rated for 24-foot or smaller pools and is ASTM certified.

One downfall: the PoolEye does not come with a remote receiver of any kind, so it only emits an alarm at the pool. It’s a very loud 85-decibel siren, but remember to check your local code requirements in case you need an alarm with an in-house receiver.

The Best Threshold Alarms

These alarms are installed anywhere a person could gain access to your pool, such as a sliding glass pool door, windows, or gates. Threshold alarms alert you when anyone (or anything) enters your pool area unexpectedly — and before they’re near the pool water.

iSmartAlarm Contact Sensor

This alarm is perfect for doors and windows around your pool enclosure. The wireless system allows you to monitor your security system directly from your smartphone.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The iSmartAlarm Contact Sensor uses wireless contact sensors that can be placed on doors and windows that open to your pool area. If anyone opens the door or window, the connection between the sensors is broken, and an alarm goes off.

Because it’s part of a home security solution, you can add other components, such as motion detectors and cameras. It also lets you monitor for intrusions from your smartphone.

PoolGuard Outdoor Pool Gate Alarm

Made for any gate, outside door, or screen, this alarm protects access to your pool. The alarm automatically resets and is always on, preventing anyone from accidentally leaving your gate open for children or pets to wander to your pool.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Another option is a gate alarm like PoolGuard GAPT-2. This can be installed on gates and screens where other alarms might not work.

Once the gate has been open for a few seconds, the alarm will sound. Pressing the pass-through button will turn off the alarm so adults can easily come and go without tripping it every time. Because this is a simple matter of pushing a button, it’s imperative to install the alarm control unit out of children’s reach.

By the way, if you’re feeling frustrated by never-ending pool problems, check out our pool maintenance video course today.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

The Best Surface Wave Sensor Alarm

If you need an alarm for a smaller pool or you have smaller animals that might get into your water, a surface wave sensor alarm is the next best option.

Surface wave sensors work by floating on your pool’s surface and measuring any disturbance of the water. They’re more effective in smaller pools and hot tubs. And because it’s portable, it’s useful if you’re traveling with kids and use someone’s pool who doesn’t have an alarm or pool cover.

Pool Patrol Pool Alarm

This floating alarm is portable and easy to install, with an adjustable sensitivity sensor. And the in-house remote receiver will alert you to potential danger both at the pool and in your home.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The Pool Patrol alarm floats like a floating chlorine dispenser, making it extremely easy to “install” in your pool. It also features a remote receiver that works 200 feet away, so the alarm will sound through the in-house receiver and poolside.

You can adjust the sensitivity of the sensing ring so it will only react to disturbances the size of a small animal or child but not, say, a breeze. And this alarm meets ASTM standards. Just remember that compared to subsurface alarms, surface wave sensor alarms like this one are more likely to trigger false alarms (according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission).

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Pool Alarm?

Most units cost between $100 and $200. With the right tools on hand, you can install a pool alarm system yourself. But just be aware that some types of alarms, like subsurface alarms, require power tools to screw in and properly mount the device.

Regardless of the cost, they’re worth the peace of mind knowing your children and pets are safe. Here’s a recap of the alarms we recommend:

• PoolGuard In-Ground Alarm
• PoolEye Above Ground Alarm

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post The Best Pool Alarms To Keep Kids Safe appeared first on Swim University®.

Relax. It’s not as confusing as it may seem. And once you get a handle on the what, when, and how of spa chemicals, taking care of your hot tub will be easy.

Want to learn more about how to keep your hot tub water balanced and sanitized? Then you should check out The Hot Tub Handbook and Video Course to help you save hundreds on chemicals and less time on hot tub maintenance all year long.

Tired of trying to keep your hot tub clean all the time and dealing with chemicals?

You'll save $100 right away with this easy-to-follow digital ebook and video course. This is the ultimate maintenance guide that hot tub manufacturer doesn’t provide you.

Click Here to Learn More

Do I Really Need to Use Hot Tub Chemicals?

Yes. Yes, you do. This isn’t like a bathtub that you fill, use, and immediately drain. The same water stays in your hot tub for weeks, sometimes months. Without chemicals to keep it sanitized, it would quickly turn into an incubation chamber for numerous organisms you definitely would not want to soak in.

If you were thinking you could just vacuum the tub once in a while, keep leaves and other debris out of the water, and that would be enough, you’re setting yourself up for a lot of cleanup work, potential equipment failure, and possibly even hot tub–related illness.

The key to preventing all of those things is using the right spa chemicals. We have a complete guide on what hot tub chemicals to buy here. Or keep reading to learn more about using each chemical.

Hot Tub Chemistry: The First Step

You have three main questions about balancing your hot tub water. The first is, “What chemicals do I need for my hot tub?” The second one is, “How much of those chemicals do I use?” The only way to get the answers to both of those questions is to test the hot tub water, and there’s a lot to get through before you even consider the third question about how to add them.

The only way you’ll know which chemicals you need to add, and how much of each one is needed to balance the hot tub chemistry is to test your water. Be sure to keep test strips or, for more accuracy, a liquid test kit stocked and on hand at all times.

You can also take a water sample to a local pool and spa store and ask them to test it for you.

Once you have the baseline readings, you can start measuring and adding the right amounts of the necessary hot tub chemicals.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Sanitizer

You could say this is the most important of all the spa chemicals you’ll use. After all, it’s what keeps your hot tub, well, sanitized.

The first thing to decide is which sanitizer you want to use, and you have a handful to choose from:

• Chlorine
• Bromine
• Biguanide
• Minerals
• Salt System

Each one has its pros and cons, so take the time to learn about them before making your choice.

Chlorine

Being the most common sanitizer, chlorine has a few advantages over the others:

• It’s cost-effective.
• It’s easy to add and manage.
• It’s an aggressive bacteria and algae killer.

The same way you may use bleach to kill bacteria, fungus, and viruses in your bathroom, chlorine does all that for your hot tub water.

One drawback to chlorine can be the smell it gives off. Except it’s not the chlorine that smells. Chlorine kills contaminants by oxidizing, breaking down into its chemicals components. As this chemical reaction occurs, the oxidation gives off waste products called chloramines. They’re what causes that “chlorine smell.”

If you can smell “chlorine,” it probably means you actually don’t have enough chlorine in your water because it’s been used up.

Test your water, and if the level is below where it should be, shock your hot tub to bring it back up quickly, get rid of the chloramines, and put the chlorine back to work killing contaminants.

Proper Chlorine Level: 1 part per million (ppm) to 3 ppm

Our Top Pick

SpaGuard Chlorinating Concentrate

Easy to add chlorine to your hot tub with granules (powder) and a cap that's perfect for measuring the amounts you add.

Buy Now On Amazon

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Bromine

Probably the second-most common sanitizer, bromine has one distinctive advantage over chlorine—it doesn’t oxidize, which means it doesn’t give off chloramines. Instead, bromine ionizes contaminants, breaking them apart at the molecular level.

The process produces a different waste product—bromamines. While they don’t smell and aren’t as noxious as chloramines, they still reduce the sanitizer’s effectiveness, and you don’t want them hovering around your hot tub. Keeping your bromine level steady will prevent this.

Bromine also has a few other advantages over chlorine:

• It has a lower pH than chlorine, making it a little easier to keep the water balanced.
• It lasts longer.
• It’s gentler on your skin.

Bromine does have a couple of drawbacks, though. While it lasts longer than chlorine, it also works more slowly, which means contaminants are in the water longer before they’re destroyed.

It’s also unstabilized, which means if you use it in an uncovered, outdoor hot tub, it’ll burn off pretty quickly under the sun. Unlike chlorine, which can be stabilized by cyanuric acid, bromine doesn’t have a stabilizing partner chemical. We think it’s best for indoor hot tubs, or at least ones that are outside but not in direct sunlight.

Proper Bromine Level: 3 ppm to 5 ppm

Biguanide

A non-chlorine sanitizer, biguanide (sold under brand names such as BaquaSpa) kills bacteria just as well as chlorine and bromine do. It has a few other advantages as well:

• It’s doesn’t need to be used as frequently as chlorine or bromine.
• It’s odorless at every stage.
• It makes the water feel smoother to you and your hot tub guests.

On the downside, biguanide usually costs more than chlorine and bromine. It’s also been known to cause deterioration in some spa parts like rubber gaskets and certain plastics. Check with your hot tub manufacturer before using it.

Proper Biguanide Level: 30 ppm to 50 ppm

Minerals

Silver is a known bactericide, and copper is a known algaecide. For these reasons, a hot tub mineral sanitizer uses one or both of them as active ingredients. Its biggest pro is also a bit of a con.

Using a mineral sanitizer means you can use less chlorine, which means the water won’t be as harsh on your skin. But you’ll notice we said less chlorine, not no chlorine. Minerals alone aren’t enough to properly sanitize water, so you must supplement with chlorine to get the full sanitizing effect.

Minerals are also on the less expensive side but remember you’ll be using two spa chemicals for sanitation rather than just one. That said, because you use so little chlorine, you also won’t have a problem with chloramines or the smell they produce.

Minerals are also super easy to manage. There’s no measuring out chemicals to add them to the water, and then waiting for them to disperse. They come in an automatically dosing “stick,” which you simply add to your filter and replace every three to four months. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Proper Mineral Level: 0.5 ppm of chlorine or 1.0 ppm of bromine

Zodiac Nature2 Hot Tub Mineral Sanitizer

Reduce the amount of chlorine (0.5ppm) you use in your hot tub by adding this mineral sanitizer to your filter system and let the power of minerals sanitize your water.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Salt Systems

You’ve heard of salt water pools, right? Well, you could have a salt water hot tub, too, if you wanted one. All it takes is a device called a salt chlorine generator.

You see, salt water hot tubs still use chlorine as a sanitizer. The generator converts the salt into chlorine, so instead of buying chlorine, you buy salt, which is a lot less expensive. The water will also be a lot softer and gentler on your eyes, hair, and skin.

To measure both salinity and chlorine, use test strips made for salt water.

Proper Salt Level: 2,000 ppm to 3,000 ppm, with 2,500 being ideal

Proper Chlorine Level: 1 ppm to 3 ppm (just like a chlorine spa)

Shock

Even if you’re keeping your sanitizer levels exactly where they need to be, your hot tub can benefit from a weekly shock (or more often, depending on bather load). But what makes this one of the most important hot tub chemicals around is its ability to give your hot tub some super sanitizing when it needs it.

Seeing algae starting to bloom in your spa? Did you wake up to a cloudy hot tub? Shock to the rescue! It’s not the only thing you’ll need to do, but it’s one of the more effective methods to quickly clear things up.

Chlorine Hot Tubs

You can use:

• Chlorine shock
• More chlorine
• Non-chlorine shock

Bromine Hot Tubs

You can use:

• Chlorine shock
• More bromine
• Non-chlorine shock

Mineral Hot Tubs

Because mineral systems use so little chlorine, we recommend using a non-chlorine shock to keep the chlorine levels low.

Biguanide Hot Tubs

If you’ve gone the alternative route, and are using biguanide as your sanitizer, be aware that those chemical systems have their own shock designed specifically for the brand you use.

Regardless of which sanitizer you use, your hot tub water’s alkalinity and pH will need to be balanced for the sanitizer to do its job.

Alkalinity

When balancing your hot tub chemistry, you’ll need to adjust alkalinity before trying to balance the pH level. Alkalinity acts as a pH buffer, keeping it from drastically changing.

It can be a delicate operation to get alkalinity levels just right, and if your water’s alkalinity gets too low—less than 100 ppm—it can also bring the pH level down, and the water will become acidic.

For this reason, you absolutely must keep an alkalinity increaser in your spa chemical storage cabinet.

But what if the alkalinity gets too high? Well, there’s actually no such spa chemical as alkalinity decreaser. To lower it, you’ll use a pH decreaser, which will lower both. This dependency and interaction is part of the difficulty in getting these two levels right. Click here for more information on lowering hot tub alkalinity.

Proper Level For Alkalinity: 100 ppm to 150 ppm

SpaGuard Hot Tub Total Alkalinity Increaser - 2 lbs.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

pH

Once you have the alkalinity where it needs to be, turn your attention to the hot tub pH level.

Too-high pH is one of the main causes of cloudy hot tub water. If the level goes above 7.6, and you start to see problems, try using a pH decreaser to brings things back down to normal.

If it’s too low, break out the pH increaser, remembering that it will also raise the alkalinity, and you’ll have to test and possibly adjust that level again.

If both the pH and alkalinity levels are low, just adding alkalinity increaser will raise both, but make sure to adjust the pH if the alkalinity doesn’t bring it up to the correct level.

If both the pH and alkalinity levels are too high, use pH decreaser to drop them back to the right level.

While you’re adjusting alkalinity and pH, you may need to test the water numerous times to get everything right, so keep a supply of test strips on hand.

Important: Low pH and alkalinity can damage your hot tub because of the acidity of the water. High pH and alkalinity can cause scaling, which can also damage the equipment. The heater is at risk both ways. Acid due to low pH will eat away at the heater element, and high pH will deposit scale around the element, making it work harder to heat your hot tub.

Proper Level For pH: 7.4 to 7.6

SpaGuard Hot Tub pH Decreaser - 22 oz.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Calcium Hardness

This is a measure of how hard the water in your hot tub is. If you live somewhere with hard water, you know how you get calcium deposits on faucets and showerheads and causes all kinds of problems? Well, it’s actually sort of the opposite in your hot tub.

You want the calcium hardness in your hot tub to be a little on the higher side. If it’s too soft, it can eat away at your hot tub shell, pipes, and other parts, slowly breaking them down over time. It’ll basically just wreak all kinds of havoc in the water. Sort of like what Mysterio did in Venice.

But what if the calcium hardness level somehow gets too high? That can make it difficult for the other hot tub chemicals you’re using to dissolve properly in the water, so it’s definitely a problem. It can also lead to cloudy water and scaling on your hot tub and its components, just like what happens to your shower head.

In this case, the best solution is to drain your hot tub, scrub it, and start over with fresh water.

To keep the calcium hardness steady and your hot tub healthy, keep a bottle of calcium hardness increaser with the rest of your hot tub supplies.

Proper Calcium Hardness Level: 175 ppm to 250 ppm

SpaGuard Hot Tub Calcium Hardness Increaser - 12 oz.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Hot Tub Enzymes

These naturally occurring substances help break down organic contaminants like skin cells, body oils, leaves, twigs, insects, all kinds of other nasties that can end up in your hot tub. If left too long, those contaminants will break down, and you’ll have to deal with a wicked case of hot tub scum.

Whether you use hot tub enzymes or not is really up to you. They’re not really necessary as long as you keep your sanitizer level balanced, and you drain, clean, and refill your hot tub on a regular basis, which is at least quarterly.

Water Clarifier

Heck, if we’re talking about keeping the water clean, why even worry about all those other hot tub chemicals?! Why not just use water clarifier?! Because it’s not a maintenance item—it’s a temporary measure.

Water clarifier treats the symptom, not the cause of cloudy water, so it’ll clear things up for a little while. But if you don’t address the actual problem, it’ll go right back to the way it was once the clarifier wears off.

So why have it? Well, say you’re planning a hot tub get-together, or maybe a romantic evening with your sweetie, and the water’s looking less than inviting. Instead of spending a lot of time on testing and balancing, you can just pour in some clarifier, and then deal with the root issue later.

But remember, it’s always preferable to keep your water clear and balanced. Water clarifier is a last and temporary resort.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Water Care Kit

Our kit makes taking care of your water easy and lasts 6-8 months. It includes two (2) bottles of Hot Tub Weekly Cleanse to keep your hot tub water clear and one (1) bottle of Hot Tub Detox, which includes two treatments every 3-4 months for deep cleaning.

Buy Now

How To Add Hot Tub Chemicals

The third question you’ll ask is: “How do I add all these chemicals to my hot tub?” It’s easier than you think. You just need to follow a few simple steps.

Keep Your Hot Tub Running

You want the spa chemicals to mix into the water, and the hot tub jets will do this for you.

Do Not Cover Your Hot Tub

You might’ve heard this is a good idea to keep the chemicals from evaporating. Sure, that’s true on an everyday basis. But right after you add chemicals, they need to off-gas, which means the chemicals break down, and a portion of them is released into the air.

You know that new-car smell? Yeah, that’s actually all the new fabric and plastics off-gassing, so don’t enjoy it too much.

Anyway, off-gassing is normal, and you want those chemical gases to dissipate, so don’t trap them under your hot tub cover.

If your hot tub is outside, the gases will just dissipate into the air. But if your hot tub is indoors, it’s a good idea to open a window, or turn on a ventilation fan, or both, so those gases don’t hang around the room where you’ll have to breathe them in.

Turn Off the Air Valves

Speaking of off-gassing, you also don’t want this to happen too quickly. You need some of the chemicals to remain in the water to do their jobs. Too much air in the water, and too much of the chemicals will off-gas. So if your hot tub has air valves that increase jet pressure, turn them off.

Test the Water

Now, before you add any hot tub chemicals, you need to know what the water needs, and how much. To get this information, test the water using test strips or a liquid test kit.

Remember, the three main levels to be concerned about are alkalinity, pH, and sanitizer. If your alkalinity and pH are out of whack, the sanitizer can’t do its job.

Follow the Instructions

Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on every chemical’s packaging to figure out how much of the chemical you need to either raise or lower the specific factor it’s going to address.

Measure Twice, Pour Once

Once you’ve determined which spa chemicals you need to add and how much, measure them out. You don’t want to just pour chemicals into your water straight from the container. Remember, the goal here is balanced water, not a chemical crapshoot.

Add the Hot Tub Chemicals

Finally, just pour the measured chemicals straight into the hot tub water, and walk away. The jets will mix everything up. Leave it for at least 15 minutes, then you can cover your hot tub to prevent evaporation.

Before you get into the hot tub, test the water again to make sure the levels are where they need to be. If they’re not, repeat this process until they are.

Our Top Pick

Test Strips for Pools and Hot Tubs

Tests for 7 important chemistries in seconds: Total Hardness, Total Chlorine, Total Bromine, Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid.

Buy Now on Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Only You Can Prevent a Dirty Hot Tub

Aside from keeping your water balanced and having the right spa chemicals on hand to clear your water when necessary, you can do a few other things to keep your hot tub clear.

Keep Your Hot Tub Clean

Duh. Seems like common sense, right? But hey, we all get lazy from time to time, or we procrastinate. We’re human. But this is one area where slacking can get you into more trouble than just not-so-clear water.

Use a good hot tub cleaner on a regular basis to keep things sanitary, and your water sparkling.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Weekly Cleanse: Water Conditioner & Clarifier

Keep it always feeling like new between Detoxes with our one-time-a-week treatment that combines hot tub cleaner, conditioner, and clarifier to give your hot tub water a soft & silky feel plus sparkling clean water!

Buy Now On Swim University

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Shower Before Every Soak

This should also be common sense, but an alarming number of people will just jump right into a hot tub (or pool) without a shower (or at the very least a quick rinse-off) because they figure the sanitizer will just take care of everything.

Sure, that’s what sanitizer is for. But it only does so much. Put too much burden on it, and it becomes a lot less effective. Do your part and help your sanitizer out by showering before you soak. This is even more important when you’re a guest in someone else’s hot tub. Or when someone’s a guest in yours.

Need another reason? We have two words for you: gluteal fold. We’re gonna let the Water Quality and Health Council explain that one.

Keep Your Filter Clean

The filtration system in your hot tub has a tough job. It’s there to remove everything from small bits of debris to bacteria (depending on the type of filter you have) from the water to keep you safe and healthy.

But if you’re not cleaning it regularly, you’re making it a lot more difficult for the filter to do its job. It can’t grab all the debris and gunk if it’s already full of debris and gunk. Do your filter, your hot tub, and yourself a favor by cleaning it regularly.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Filter Cleaner

Spray Filter Cleanse on your hot tub filters, rinse with water, and your filters will look brand new in less than 20 minutes! Hot Tub Filter Cleanse is a powerful, fast-acting spray cleaner that removes body oils, lotions, and other organic materials from your hot tub filter cartridges.

Buy Now

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Change Your Filter When Necessary

Even if you clean it regularly, your hot tub filter will still need to be replaced eventually. Keep an eye on its condition when you remove it for cleanings and replace it when cleaning isn’t enough to get it clean anymore.

Use Hot Tub Sponges or Tennis Balls

Remember those organic substances we talked about floating on top of the water, creating a nasty ring of scum in your spa shell? Tossing a couple of hot tub sponges or a few tennis balls into the water will help keep that film at bay. The sponges or the tennis balls’ fuzzy exterior will soak up some of the oil and other things that can cloud your water.

Just remember, they won’t work forever. While you can wash them and keep using them for a while, just like anything else, they’ll eventually need to be replaced.

Keep Your Hot Tub Covered

Whether your spa is outside and exposed to leaves and bugs, or inside and exposed to dust and maybe a too-curious dog, using a hot tub cover will help keep things out that can dirty your water.

This also means less work and fewer chemicals, which translates to less money spent on maintaining your hot tub. If you don’t have a cover, get one.

Drain and Clean Your Spa on a Regular Basis

So you’re already cleaning your hot tub regularly. That’s great! But you know you can’t just keep the same water in there forever, right? Think about that for a minute. Do you really want to?

At least quarterly, drain and clean your hot tub. This is also the perfect time to use a line flush product to get rid of any biofilm that may be lurking in your plumbing. Give it a good scrubbing, refill it with clean, fresh water, and off you go again.

Our Top Pick

Hot Tub Detox: Hot Tub Cleaner & Purge

Don't let your hot tub fill with hard-to-remove gunk. Clear out the gunk and keep your hot tub water fresh. It removes gunk in your pipes caused by lotions, sunscreens, cosmetics, etc.

Kills bacteria inside the pipes for maximum effect.

Buy Now On Swim University

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

You Passed Hot Tub Chemistry 101!

Keeping your water clear isn’t always about using spa chemicals. A big part of it is simply taking good care of your investment. Hot tubs are not cheap. The better you maintain yours, the longer it will last, and the more you’ll be able to enjoy it.

And you’ll be better able to maintain it if you have the right hot tub chemicals and equipment available. So don’t skimp. Get what you need, and use it. Your hot tub will repay you by always being ready when you want to relax.

Happy Soaking!

The post Hot Tub Chemistry 101: What, When, and How to Add Spa Chemicals appeared first on Swim University®.