Making sure your pool is properly caulked is critical in preventing more serious problems down the road, not to mention improving the appearance of your pool.

Why Do You Need Fresh Pool Caulking?

Just like the caulk around your bathtub or windows, pool caulking helps keep moisture out of areas where it doesn’t belong. However, it’s not a permanent solution.

Over time, the caulk ages and weakens. And with changes in weather, your pool will expand and contract, which is a frequent cause of pool caulk cracking or failing.

To combat this problem, many concrete pools (and some vinyl pools) have an expansion joint, which connects the concrete to your pool, allowing it to expand and contract with temperature changes. It’s sealed with a bead of caulk to keep water out of the joint.

If the pool caulking cracks, it’s possible for moisture to get behind the joint. If enough water gets in there, it can expand and contract with the weather changes and cause major structural damage to your pool and the area around it. This can result in some pretty expensive repairs down the road.

If the caulk around your pool is beginning to look old and brittle, or you live in an area that experiences broad changes in temperature, it may be time to put down fresh caulk.

How to Replace Pool Caulking

If you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer, this project shouldn’t be a problem for you. But if you have any doubts about your ability to caulk your own pool, don’t hesitate to call in a pro. It may be a little on the expensive side, but it’s better to have it done correctly to prevent serious damage to your pool.

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Materials You Need

Gather everything before you begin so you don’t have to stop midway through the job.

• Pool Caulking
• Caulking Gun
• Foam Backer Rod
• Damp Cloth
• Piece of Flat Cardboard
• Leaf Blower
• Sand (Optional)

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Get to Caulkin’!

Keep in mind that while this is a pretty easy job for a do it yourselfer, it isn’t easy work. You’ll be on your knees, bent over your pool working for quite some time, so make sure you’re prepared for that. You’ll want to take your time to make sure you apply the caulk evenly so the end result looks neat and clean, and the caulk does its job.

1. Clear the area with a leaf blower around where you plan to caulk so there are no leaves or other debris that could get in the way.
2. Scrape off and pull out all of the old caulk in the areas you plan on covering with new caulk.
3. Blow away any remnants and clean it thoroughly.
4. Ensure the area is dry.
5. Lay the cardboard on the ground next to where you’ll be working.
6. Place the foam backer rod inside the crack, and press it down firmly so it forms a good base.
7. Place the caulk in the caulking gun, and snip off the end of the caulk.
8. Pull the trigger and run a bead of pool caulking as evenly as you can across the area.
9. Wipe away any caulk that makes its way outside of where it’s supposed to be.
10. Go back over the areas to catch any spots you might’ve missed along the way.
11. Sprinkle a little sand into the caulk in order to better match the color of your concrete. (optional)
12. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
13. Add another layer if necessary.

Note: If you take a break, set the caulking gun on the cardboard so you don’t have to worry about cleaning up any extra messes.

Check Your Work

If you’ve done the job right, the caulk will go from edge to edge, filling every nook and cranny so no water finds its way into the joint. If you still find holes or other areas that need more work, add a little more caulk.

An Ounce of Caulk Is Worth a Pound of Prevention

Or something like that. The point is, you don’t want to deal with major damage to your pool because you didn’t bother to maintain the pool caulking. It’s one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can perform to protect your pool and keep it looking new.

Don’t let caulk go to long without being repaired or replaced. This one simple chore can help you avoid thousands of dollars’ worth of damage later on.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Use Inground Pool Caulking appeared first on Swim University®.

Surprise tests aside, one of the best things you can do for yourself and your pool is to learn about all the essential parts of a swimming pool. It’ll help you with your daily maintenance, and will come in handy for occasional troubleshooting. Not to mention, you’ll ace the next quiz.

Knowing the Parts of a Pool Makes a Big Difference

It would be difficult to fully maintain your pool if you’re unfamiliar with its anatomy. Think of it this way—if you were going to maintain your own car rather than take it to a mechanic, it’s imperative to know how the engine works, what all the parts are, how they work together, and what to look for when something goes wrong.

It’s no different when you own a pool. Thankfully, though, a pool doesn’t have nearly as many moving parts as a car, so you can take care of it yourself a lot more easily. But that care still requires a foundational knowledge of all the parts of your pool.

Seven Essential Pool Parts

Aside from all the extra equipment and accessories you can buy, every pool has the same seven main parts:

1. skimmer
2. main drain
3. suction line(s)
4. pump
5. filter
6. return lines
7. return jets

Some of them are situated on the suction side of the pool, while the others are on the pressure side. Once you know what each part of the pool does, its location will make sense.

The Suction Side

Its name says it all. This is the side of the pool that takes or sucks in water and introduces it to the filtration system, beginning the circulation process.

Skimmers

Built into the side of the pool, these are plastic buckets that house skimmer baskets. The baskets are there to catch larger debris such as leaves, twigs, bugs, and anything else that’s too large to go through your filter.

Pool water enters the skimmer and begins its journey through the pool’s filtration system.

Main Drain

Usually located in the floor of the pool’s deep end, the main drain’s name may be a little misleading. While it can be used to drain the pool, it’s seldom used that way. Normally, it performs the same function as the skimmers.

This allows for better circulation as water is pulled from the top by the skimmers, and from the bottom by the main drain.

Important: Newer inground pools usually have two main drains. This is a safety measure to reduce the suction force in case something—or someone—blocks one of the drains. Older inground pools may not have two main drains, making pool safety practices even more important.

Suction Lines

These pipes, usually made of PVC, carry the pool water from the skimmer to the pump.

The Filtration System

Serving two entirely separate but equally important purposes, the pool pump and pool filter make up the filtration system.

The Pump

Pool water doesn’t just fall into the skimmers. The pool pump contains an impeller, which spins fast enough to create a vacuum, which pulls the water into the filtration system.

The impeller is powered by a motor, so pool pumps are identified by horsepower. They usually range from ¾ to 3 horsepower. The pump size you need will depend on the size of your pool. The larger the pool, the more horsepower the pump will need to move the higher volume of water.

As the water passes through the pump, the force being exerted on it changes from pulling to pushing. The pump then pushes the water into the filter.

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The Filter

While sanitizers like chlorine kill viruses and bacteria, that’s only half the job of cleaning the water. The filter does the rest, removing fine debris, tiny particles, and in some cases, even bacteria that may have made it past the sanitizer.

Pool filters are available in three varieties: sand, diatomaceous earth (D.E.), and cartridge. They each have their pros and cons, but all are effective and easy to maintain.

If you’re not sure of the best way to care for your pool filter, you’ll find that info and a lot more in our Pool Care Handbook and Video Course.

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The Pressure Side

Again, the name gives it away. This side of the pool pushes water from the filtration system back into the pool, completing the circulation process.

Return Lines

The opposite of the suction lines, but also made of PVC, they carry pool water from the filter to the return jets.

Return Jets

Once the filtered water has passed through the return lines, it arrives at the return jets, where it reenters the pool.

These parts of the pool serve double duty. In addition to being portals through which water goes back into the pool, return jets also push the water around the pool. This helps to not only direct water into the skimmers, but any debris that may be floating on the water’s surface, where it can be caught in the skimmer basket.

Tip: To get that circulation in the pool, and if you have two or more return jets, angle some of them down towards the floor and in one direction, either left or right. You want to create a circular motion while helping to kick debris off the bottom with the jets angling down.

Inground Pool Anatomy

Pools vary in size, shape, and type, so there’s no one anatomy that’s going to fit every single inground pool in existence. But they all work on the same principle.

While extra equipment can be added to this basic setup, these parts make up essential inground pool anatomy. Without any one of them, you won’t have any pool circulation, which means you’ll have a really dirty pool.

Above Ground Pool Anatomy

The circulation process is exactly the same as the one for inground pools, but the setup is slightly different

For one thing, above ground pools usually only have one skimmer, and one return jet. Also, the suction and return lines are much shorter, and don’t go underground the way they do on an inground pool. This makes them a lot easier to repair or replace when necessary.

Other than that, water still goes from the pool, through the skimmer, through the pump, through the filter, and through the return jet back into the pool.

Additional Equipment

Got a little extra cash to spend? Want to make your pool care even easier, and your pool even more enjoyable? You can add a couple of bonus pieces of equipment to the lineup.

Pool Heater

No, it’s not one of the essential parts of a swimming pool. It doesn’t contribute to circulation or filtration. What it does do is make your pool more comfortable, and possibly even lengthen your pool season.

Pool heaters are available for both inground and above ground pools, and you have a wide variety of heating methods to choose from: natural gas, propane, electric, and even solar. And they work more efficiently with a solar pool cover.

If you’re not a fan of cold pool water, or you just want to swim later into the year, consider heating up your pool. Check out our complete guide to buying the best pool heater.

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Chemical Feeder

This handy little piece of equipment makes sanitizing your pool super easy. You’ll just fill it up with whatever type of sanitizer the feeder is made to use—chlorine, bromine, or a mineral cartridge—hook it up, and then not have to worry about adding sanitizer for a while.

This is the last piece of equipment in your filtration line. The order of equipment is as follows:

Important: If you use both a pool heater and a chemical feeder, make sure you place them in the correct order when connecting them to your filtration system. Water should flow through them in this order:

• Pump
• Filter
• Heater
• Chemical Feeder

If you place the chemical feeder before the heater, the chemical-laden water can damage the heater over time.

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Hayward Automatic Pool Chlorinator (Inline)

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The Eighth Essential Part

Skimmers, main drains, suction lines, pump, filter, return lines, return jets … what else is there? That’s a silly question. It’s the most essential part of all—YOU! All of those other parts of a pool don’t matter if you’re not enjoying your pool.

Put the studying aside for a little while. Take a refreshing dip, relax while you float on your back, and then have a good game of Marco Polo. You can always get back to building your pool knowledge tomorrow.

Happy Swimming!

The post Parts of a Pool: Essential Knowledge for Pool Care appeared first on Swim University®.

Of course, you already know how to clean your pool. But you also need to know how to drain water from your pool after rain to keep the water clean, and protect your pool and its equipment.

Should You Drain Water from Your Pool after Rain?

It’s everyone’s favorite answer: It depends.

Was it just a light sprinkling or a short rainshower? Then you probably don’t need to drain any water from the pool. It’s a good idea to test the water, though, and make sure it’s still balanced. If anything’s off, adjust as necessary.

But if you had a major thunderstorm that released a deluge into your pool, to the point where the skimmers aren’t even visible above the water line, and water may even be slopping out onto the deck, then yes. You definitely need to get some of that water out of there.

That much water added to your pool has no doubt diluted the chemicals you’ve added, and thrown the alkalinity, pH, sanitizer, and other levels out of whack.

And if the skimmers are covered by a high water line, debris like leaves and twigs—which very likely fell into your pool during the storm—can’t make their way into the skimmer baskets. They’ll stay in the water instead, endlessly floating around until enough water is removed to allow the skimmers to function properly.

Once the weather has cleared, it’s time to get some of that water out of the pool.

How to Drain Water from Your Pool after Rain

This is actually a pretty straightforward and simple process. It’s just a matter of performing these steps in the proper order for maximum efficiency and effectiveness.

1. Clean the Pool Deck

Sweep up debris from the pool deck, and use a garden hose to clean it of dirt. Be sure to sweep and spray away from the pool to prevent any debris from getting into the water.

2. Manually Remove Debris from the Pool

Attach a leaf net or flat skimmer to your telescopic pole and remove all the leaves, twigs, and other debris from the water’s surface.

If leaves, twigs, and other debris have accumulated inside the skimmer and pump baskets, the filtration system won’t work properly when you turn it on. Use a pool skimmer—or your hands, if necessary—to get everything out of the baskets as well.

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3. Turn On the Pump and Filter

You want to get the water circulating again to remove all the contaminants too-small-for-the-skimmer bits of debris the rain introduced into your pool.

Note: If you’ve lost power due to the storm, you’ll obviously have to wait to do this step. But you still want to manually remove all the debris you can. If you leave it too long, it’ll sink to the bottom of the pool, and you’ll have a lot more vacuuming to do later.

4. Brush the Pool

Use a good pool brush to move dirt and debris away from your pool’s steps and ladder(s). If there’s a drain at the bottom of the pool, push the debris toward it.

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5. Vacuum the Pool

If there’s not a lot of debris at the bottom of the pool, you can turn your automatic pool cleaner loose and let it do the work for you.

If there is a lot of debris—or you don’t have an automatic cleaner—you’ll have to manually vacuum the pool.

Be sure to turn your filter to “waste” before you start vacuuming. This will keep the debris from entering your filter, and will drain some of that extra water from the pool.

Continue vacuuming until all the debris is removed and the waterline reaches the halfway point on the skimmer plate, which should be about six to eight inches from the top of the pool.

If the water line reaches the desired level, but there’s still debris to vacuum, turn on your garden hose and place it in the pool to maintain the water level while you finish cleaning.

6. Drain Some of the Water from the Pool

If there’s a lot of water in your pool, but not a lot of debris, and vacuuming the small amount of debris to waste won’t remove enough of the water, you have a couple of options.

You can continue to vacuum to waste until you’ve removed enough water from the pool. Again, the goal is the halfway point on the skimmer plate, or about six to eight inches from the top of the pool.

Or, you can stop vacuuming, keep the filter turned to “waste,” connect a backwash hose to the filter’s waste port, and turn the pump on. Pump out water until the waterline reaches the desired level.

You can also use a sump pump attached to a garden hose.

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7. Test and Balance the Water

A lot of rain and organic debris will likely have affected your pool’s chemistry. Use test strips or a liquid test kit to test and then balance the water.

Pay special attention to the pH, which may have dropped considerably due to the rain, especially if the rain itself was at all acidic. Remember that if the pH was drastically affected, it’s likely the alkalinity was as well. So make sure you test both.

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Also, check the chlorine level. Rain will often introduce contaminants to the water, and when the sanitizer starts fighting them off, the amount of available sanitizer (known as free chlorine) will drop, leaving your pool vulnerable.

Finally, check the calcium and cyanuric acid levels. These may have been diluted by the rain. Soft water can cause problems for your pool and equipment, and too little cyanuric acid will mean the chlorine isn’t stabilized, which will affect its performance.

You may want to have the water tested by a professional, or at your local pool store, just to be on the safe side. you don’t want to end up with a green or cloudy pool from the storm.

Should You Shock Your Pool after a Rainstorm?

We’re seldom going to say you shouldn’t shock your pool. It’s not absolutely necessary to shock it after rain, but it’s not a bad idea either.

Now that you know how to drain water from your pool after rain, just be sure to do that first, then balance the water, then shock. Remember to wait until dusk before adding any pool shock.

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Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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How to Prepare Your Pool for a Rainstorm

You can save yourself some work after the rain has passed if you take some time to prepare your pool before it gets there.

Store Outdoor Furniture Indoors

Remove anything that isn’t secured. This will keep it from falling into your swimming pool if the wind is strong enough to move it. This includes:

• patio furniture
• grills and smokers
• lounge chairs and cushions
• potted plants
• decorative landscaping items, like lawn gnomes (Don’t leave those little guys out in the rain!)

Important: Do NOT put your patio furniture in the pool to protect it from the storm. You may have heard this advice a time or two, but it’s not safe for your pool structure or pool water, not to mention your furniture.

Store Pool Accessories Indoors

Collect anything lying in or around the pool, and put it in a storage shed or your garage. This will keep it from ending up in your neighbor’s yard in strong winds. This includes:

• pool floats
• toys and games
• maintenance equipment, such as skimmers, poles, an automatic pool cleaner, etc.

Disconnect All Electrical and Gas Lines to Your Pool

Take special care to properly shut off all the gas lines to minimize the risk of a gas leak if the storm hits your home pretty hard.

Also, turn off the pump. If you have a timer installed, check to make sure the timer won’t kick the pump and filter back on in the middle of the storm.

If you have covers for your pump, filter, and heater, use them.

Prepare the Pool Water

Balance the water and maybe even add a little algaecide (optional). This will help fight off many of the organic contaminants that are brought in by rainwater and make it easier to clean your pool after the storm.

Optional: A properly installed pool is equipped with overflows designed to drain excess water. However, you can lower the pool by about a foot in anticipation of it being overfilled by rainwater.

Important: Do not lower the water level by any more than about a foot. If you lower it any more than that, the hydrostatic pressure generated by a rainstorm could be too much for the pool, and could cause it to pop out of the ground.

Safety First!

While we’re on the subject of pools and rainstorms, we’d like to remind you that electricity and water don’t mix. This also applies to lightning.

Even if you haven’t seen any lightning, it doesn’t mean there won’t be any. Stay out of the pool until the rain has passed.

You Can Swim Safely Now, the Rain Is Gone

Being ready for bad weather, and knowing how to drain water from your pool after rain will help you keep your pool clean, healthy, and swimmable. If you’re prepared, you can get back to enjoying your pool in no time.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Drain Water from Your Pool after Rain appeared first on Swim University®.

Whatever the cause, you don’t want to leave those damaged spots for too long, or they’ll only get bigger. Before you know it, you could have a leak on your hands. But don’t worry. Repairing the plaster in your pool isn’t as difficult as it may sound.

How to Make the Pool Plaster Repairs

You’ve probably patched a spot or two on the drywall in your house. No big deal, right? But your pool? That might sound a little intimidating.

It doesn’t have to be. With the right tools and the proper procedures, you can make pool plaster repairs and avoid the expense of calling in a pro.

What You’ll Need

Make sure you have all the necessary supplies on hand before you begin the pool plaster repair process. You don’t want to have to stop midway to run to the hardware store, leaving pool cracks or curing plaster exposed for longer than they should be.

• submersible pump
• drainage hose
• hammer
• masonry chisel
• paint scraper
• large pliers
• angle grinder or masonry saw with a diamond blade
• pool trowel or putty knife
• grouting sponges
• wire brush
• small, soft-tipped brush, like a paint brush
• wooden pole
• spray bottle filled with water
• garden hose that reaches every area of the pool
• spray nozzle
• watering can
• soda ash
• regular muriatic acid
• underwater sealer
• pool plaster
• epoxy putty that can be used underwater
• bleach
• cement pigment (if necessary)
• swimming goggles
• acid safety mask
• ear protection
• safety goggles
• acid-resistant gloves
• heavy-duty work gloves
• long pants
• long-sleeved shirt
• acid-resistant boots
• old towels
• old bed sheet(s)

Important: Pool plaster repair can be dangerous as it calls for using tools like grinders, concrete saws, and acid. If you have any discomfort working with such tools or materials, don’t risk it. Call a pro. Your safety is more important than a crack in your pool’s surface.

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Pool Plaster Repair: Empty Pool

If your pool’s plaster cracks far down on a wall or on the floor, or the crack is large enough to require cutting, you’ll have to empty your pool before you can fix it.

Follow detailed instructions for how to drain a pool to avoid damaging your inground pool.

1. Put on your safety goggles, ear protection, and heavy-duty work gloves, and be sure to wear closed-toe shoes.
2. Cut the crack out. Place the blade of the grinder or masonry saw on either side of the crack. Cut ½ inch deep, and diagonally toward the cut to create a dovetail. Then lengthen the crack by one inch on both ends. Remove the cut-out plaster.
3. Rinse the crack, and allow it to dry. Once it’s dry, brush away any remaining dust or debris with the soft-tipped brush.
4. Apply a bead of underwater sealer along the edges of the crack. Leave about ⅜ of an inch of space for the plaster you’ll use to fill the crack.
5. Mix the pool plaster with the included bonding agent until it has the consistency of peanut butter—thick enough to stay in place, but not so thick you can’t easily spread it.
6. Use a damp grouting sponge to lightly moisten the perimeter of the crack. Use the trowel or putty knife to apply the pool plaster, gently pushing it into the crack taking care to remove any air bubbles.
7. Use the edge of the trowel or putty knife to scrape off any excess plaster. Dab the plaster with a damp grouting sponge to approximate the surface texture.
8. Fill the pool. The plaster will cure better underwater. If you won’t be filling the pool for a few hours (maybe you have several cracks to repair), cover the patched spot with a damp towel or old bedsheet. If the plaster patch dries too quickly, it may shrink and crack again. Covering it will keep it from drying out until you fill the pool.

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Pool Plaster Repair: Patching

It could be more than a crack or small spot that needs to be fixed. Sometimes, plaster will bubble, or become loose. You’ll have to empty the pool for this repair.

Follow detailed instructions for how to drain a pool to keep your pool from popping.

1. Put on your safety goggles, ear protection, and heavy-duty work gloves, and be sure to wear long pants, long sleeves, and closed-toe shoes.
2. Use the hammer and masonry chisel to remove spots of obviously loose plaster.
3. Use the wooden pole to tap around the pool floor, and listen for a hollow sound, which indicates more loose plaster. If you find any, chisel them up as well.
4. Clear away the plaster you’ve removed.
5. Use the chisel to create a few divots in the surface of the area you’ll be patching. This will help the new plaster adhere to the surface.
6. Apply an acid wash to the surface you’ll be working on. (With the pool empty, this is also a good time to acid wash the pool completely.)
7. Measure the surface area you’re going to patch so you can prepare enough pool plaster.
8. Mix the plaster to the consistency of peanut butter—thick enough to stay in place, but not so thick you can’t easily spread it.
9. Add cement dye, if necessary, to match the current plaster color.
10. Dab the surface to be repaired with a wet (but not dripping) grouting sponge, or spray the surface with a fine mist of water.
11. Use the pool trowel to apply the plaster, pushing it into the divots you made with the chisel, as well as any corners.
12. Push out any air bubbles and smooth the surface with the trowel, feathering the edges into the surrounding pool surface.
13. Wait 15 minutes.
14. Use the trowel to smooth the patched surface again. If it’s hot outside, or the patch has dried during the waiting period, spray it with water again before you smooth it.
15. Cover the patch(es) with wet bed sheets if you won’t be refilling the pool within 4 to 6 hours. Also cover patches while you work your way around the pool if it’s hot outside to keep them from drying out and shrinking before they can cure underwater.
16. Refill the pool.

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Pool Plaster Repair: Full Pool

Putty and plaster mix that set underwater will allow you to fix cracks and gouges without draining a drop of pool water.

1. Put on your swimming goggles so you can see clearly while you’re working underwater.
2. Rake the pointy end of a paint scraper along the crack to open it up, and around the edges of the area you’re going to fix.
3. Brush the spot with the wire brush to remove any algae, and to loosen any dirt and debris. Brush it all out of the area you’re going to fix.
4. Choose the repair material you want to use.
   • Underwater Epoxy Putty
   1. Cut equal amounts of the A and B putty.
   2. Combine and mold them into one piece, in a shape that matches the crack you’re fixing (a ball for a chip or gouge; a rope for a crack).
   3. Push the putty as far into the damaged area as possible.
   4. Use your fingers to smooth the edges flat against the pool surface.
   • Underwater Pool Plaster
   1. Mix the plaster outside the pool, according to manufacturer’s instructions.
   2. Roll it into a ball, and take it into the water.
   3. Push the plaster mix into the crack with the trowel or putty knife.
   4. Use the trowel or putty knife to smooth the edges flat against the pool surface.

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Plaster Replacement: Hire a Pro

Does your pool surface need a complete makeover? Maybe you’ve let those cracks and loose patches go so long that it’d just be easier to replace the plaster rather than repair it. This is definitely doable, but we highly recommend you hire a professional.

Even if you work with plaster and concrete in some capacity every day, the interior of an inground pool is very different from walls, patios, or other concrete structures.

The expense of hiring a pro to replace your pool plaster is going to be lower than hiring a pro to fix a plaster replacement done incorrectly or poorly. Get it done right the first time, and save yourself the money and headaches.

Plaster a Smile on Your Face

You did it! The cracks and gouges are fixed, and you can get back to relaxing while you float around your perfectly patched pool.

And the next time any cracks pop up, you’ll be able to do another round of pool plaster repair in no time and with no trepidation.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Repair Plaster in a Pool Whether It’s Empty or Full appeared first on Swim University®.

And no matter how well you take care of your pool, there will come a time when it needs repairs, from minor touch-ups on a vinyl liner to plastering cracks in the cement. And it’s pretty hard to fix those spots on the floor of the deep end without removing the water first. So take a little time to learn how to drain a pool so you’re ready for anything.

Why Do You Need to Know How to Drain a Pool?

You’ve probably read that you shouldn’t drain your pool unless you absolutely have to. This is true, especially for inground pools.

You don’t want to drain your pool once a week just to scrub it or anything crazy like that. But a few tasks do require draining.

To Clean the Pool

We don’t mean your weekly, monthly, or even quarterly cleaning and maintenance. You can, and should, vacuum your pool while the water is in it.

But say your water source is high in metals or calcium. After a while (we’re talking years, remember), you may start to see stains and calcium deposits, even if you use a metal sequestrant and actively manage the calcium hardness levels.

The metal stains are just ugly. But the calcium deposits can start to have a detrimental effect on your pool’s surfaces and equipment, which will cost you money in repairs and replacements. You’ll want to drain the pool so you can scrub them away completely, or so you can acid wash the pool.

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To Repair the Pool

Over time, holding thousands of gallons of water takes a toll on your pool’s liner and surfaces. A vinyl liner may start to bubble and tear, while a concrete pool may develop cracks.

Whether you need to replace or just patch a vinyl liner, or you need to perform some pool plaster repair, you’ll have to drain the pool to do it.

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To Paint the Pool

Sitting out in the hot sun year after year is eventually going to fade the color of your painted concrete or gunite pool. Let’s face it, you want your pool to be functional and fun, but you also want it to look nice. To keep it looking its best, you’ll want to paint it every few years.

Important: Remember to only use pool paint made specifically for this purpose. Just any old paint won’t stand up to the chemicals, and you’ll have a mess on your hands.

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01/28/2023 06:55 am GMT

To Change the Water

How long has the water in your pool been there? Months? Years? How many? Even if you’ve religiously kept up with maintenance and water chemistry, there will eventually come a time when you want—no, you need—to change the water.

Eventually, the total dissolved solids (TDS)—the remnants of all the chemicals you’ve put into the water over the years, plus dirt, leaves, and any other contaminants—in the pool water will grow to the point where they cannot be filtered out. When that happens, it will interfere with your ability to maintain proper water chemistry.

Once the TDS level reaches about 2,500 parts per million, it becomes a problem. It’s not unsafe, but it will begin to require more and more chemicals to balance the water. Also, at that level, mineral stains may develop on the pool walls and floor. Let the high level go too long, and the liner material may even begin to deteriorate.

Once the TDS level reaches that high point, it’s extremely difficult to lower it. Think about it—is there really a way to put more chemicals in the water to reduce the residue of all the chemicals you’ve already put in the water? That’s sort of like trying to clean a spot of dirt by rubbing more dirt on it.

Draining the pool and refilling it with fresh, clean water is usually the best, if not the only solution. Use a digital TDS meter to monitor the level so you know when to replace the water.

To Do a Combination of Tasks

Are you draining the pool to make one repair on the floor? Why not acid wash the pool while you’re at it? Or go ahead and repaint it so you don’t have to drain it again in a year or two?

Take advantage of the empty pool to get as much maintenance done as possible, and drain it as infrequently as possible.

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Before You Drain Any Pool

Taking a few precautions is a key part of how to drain a pool.

Have a Water Disposal Plan

Know where you’re going to direct all that pool water before you start pulling it out. Some municipalities prohibit draining pool water into streets or storm drains. And thousands of gallons of water is probably going to be too much for your yard to handle. You don’t want all those chemicals in your grass or the groundwater, anyway.

The usual process is to direct all that water down one of your home’s sewer cleanouts, but some areas may allow you to drain into the street. Your city may also have restrictions on when you can drain your pool. Always check with your local water authority to be sure.

Having a water disposal plan in place before you begin the draining process can help you avoid fines and environmental damage.

Allow Pool Chemicals to Dissipate

Regardless of where you’re going to dispose of the pool water, it’s best—and in most cities, required—to ensure the water does not have high levels of pool chemicals. It should be chlorine neutral, have a neutral pH, and not contain any additional chemicals you may use. Contact your local water authority for required chemical levels where you live.

To reduce levels, stop adding chemicals, and test the water until the water reaches the necessary chemical levels. If you need to drain the pool sooner (for an urgent repair, for example), you can use a chlorine neutralizer to speed up the process.

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Turn Off Automatic Timers

If any of your pool equipment runs on an automatic timer, turn them off prior to draining so nothing turns on during the draining process.

This is important for your pool lights. They’re meant to work underwater, and are water-cooled devices. When they’re not covered with water, they can quickly overheat and shatter.

Turning off timers is especially important for the pump, which is also water cooled.

Important:Do not allow the pump to come on while you’re draining the pool. If it turns on after the water level has fallen below the skimmer, the pump can take on air, which can damage it.

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Wait for the Right Weather

You might think a bright, sunny day is the perfect time to drain your pool. And it is—as long as it’s not too hot out.

Pools are meant to be full of water. When they’re drained, and the liner is dry and exposed to high heat, it’s vulnerable and can easily be damaged by the sun. An inground pool can even blister and crack if left dry in high temperatures.

To avoid this, drain your pool when the outside temperature is 85°F (29°C) or lower. If your pool needs to be drained, but you’re into the middle of summer when temperatures are going to remain high (especially if you live in a warmer climate), wait until autumn or even winter if that season is mild enough where you live.

Have Your Repair Supplies Ready

No pool is meant to sit empty and dry. Plus, you may get an unexpected rainshower or thunderstorm. Then you’ll just have more water to pump out, and more cleaning to do.

Having everything you need—tools, repair kits, paint—ready means you can get right to work and fill your pool back up as soon as possible.

What’s it Going to Cost?

Aside from being prepared for the actual task of draining your pool, you’ll need to be prepared in a couple of other ways as well.

It’s Going to be Expensive

In the United States, one person uses approximately 80 to 100 gallons (303 to 379 liters) of water per day. A large pool can hold 18,000 to 20,000 gallons ( to ) of water. The month you choose to drain and refill your pool, expect a hefty water bill.

You can be better prepared for it by knowing how many gallons of water you’re going to need to fill your pool. To know this, you need to know your pool volume. You can easily figure this out with a pool calculator.

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Time is Money

Whether you’re draining or refilling your pool, you don’t want to leave it unattended. You’ll need to choose a day when you don’t have any other obligations so you can stay near the pool as it empties or fills. Both tasks are going to add up to several hours of valuable time.

How long it will take to drain your pool will depend on the size of your pool, and how many gallons per minute the pump can move. But you’re probably looking at somewhere between 8 and 14 hours for your pool to empty.

Same goes for filling it. The size of your pool, how many hoses you use, and what kind of water pressure you have are main factors.

The average outdoor spigot on a home will produce roughly 4 to 12 gallons per minute. A small pool could take just a few hours to fill, while a large one might take 14 hours. You can get an idea of how long it will take by using a pool fill time calculator.

Whether draining or filling be ready to spend a lot of time at home, near the pool, ready in case anything goes wrong.

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Should You Drain Your Inground Pool?

This is probably the most important question to ask aside from how to drain a pool. Draining an inground pool isn’t as straightforward as it sounds. It’s not like draining a bathtub where you pull a plug and the water just goes down a drain where you don’t have to worry about its destination.

This task is a little easier for above ground and Intex pools. But for inground pools, you have other things to consider to avoid the dreaded pool pop.

How to Keep an Inground Pool from Popping

If you live in an area that has a high water table, and you completely drain your inground pool, it’s possible the pool will “pop.” This means, without the weight of the water pressing on it, the pool may be pushed up and out of the ground—literally. The risk is even higher if you drain your pool after several days of heavy rain.

An inground pool can pop regardless of type. Concrete, gunite, vinyl, fiberglass—they’re all at risk of popping when drained.

If it’s time to drain your pool, and you want to keep it from popping, consider draining just half the water from the pool, and refilling it. The ability to do this will, of course, depend on your reason for draining it in the first place.

For example, if you need to repair the floor, you’ll have to completely drain the pool. If this is the case, you may want to consult a professional to avoid expensive damage to your pool.

If you decide to move forward yourself, take a few extra precautions to help prevent popping.

Don’t Drain in the Rain

A period of heavy rainfall is the absolute worst time to drain your pool. The ground will be heavy with water, which increases the risk of it pushing the pool up and out as you empty it.

Wait for dry weather. And not just a day or two of it. Give the ground time to dry out after it’s absorbed a lot of rain. Remember, just because the ground looks dry on the surface doesn’t mean it’s not still saturated several feet down around the sides and bottom of your pool.

Dispose of the Water Correctly

This is important when you drain any pool, but even more so for an inground pool. If your drainage hose isn’t long enough to reach the sewer cleanout in your yard, buy a longer hose.

Letting those thousands of gallons of water spill out onto the ground around your pool will have the same effect of heavy rainfall. The ground will absorb the water, and the pressure on your pool will increase.

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01/27/2023 06:41 pm GMT

Direct the Drained Water Downhill

If possible, direct the drainage hose downhill from the pool. This is an extra precaution in case any drainage problems occur.

For example, if you’re draining into a sewer cleanout, you could run into a clog. Over time, the main drain line from your home will contain a buildup of residue. This can include grease, paper, and other waste that goes down all the drains in your home. You may not realize there’s a problem until you try to direct tens of thousands of gallons of water down the main drain.

This could cause the water to pool around the drain, and you have the same problem as if you’d just drained the water into the ground around the pool. Directing it downhill will help keep it away from the pool should you encounter any problems.

Note: If you’re concerned about a clogged sewer cleanout, and it’s been a while (or never) since you cleaned your home’s main drain, consider using a drain treatment before you drain your pool.

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Open the Hydrostatic Pressure Relief Valves

First, what the heck are these things? You came here to learn how to drain a pool, and now there’s all this technobabble. Relax. That’s a really long name for a pretty simple but important feature.

If you look at your pool’s floor, you’ll see at least one, but probably a few, white rings embedded in the floor. They’re plastered in place when the pool is built, but under that plaster, they’re threaded onto a slotted pipe.

This pipe runs along the floor of the pool, and then terminates into a gravel pit under the pool floor, which is also put in place when the pool is built. The purpose of these valves is to allow groundwater to come up into the pool if and when it’s drained.

If water accumulated under the pool with nowhere to go, it would create hydrostatic pressure, which is what would make the pool pop. These valves help relieve that pressure, thereby preventing (hopefully) popping.

Important: Do not open any hydrostatic pressure relief valves until the pool is mostly drained. When the pool gets to that point, you may only need to open one valve to relieve any built-up pressure. The valve in the center of the deep end is best. But if you live in an area with a high water table, you may want to open two valves to be on the safe side.

To open a relief valve, use a hammer and chisel to break and remove the plaster inside the cap, which will reveal the threaded plug. Use large pliers to twist the plug counterclockwise and remove it.

Once the valve is removed, you may see water come up into the pool. You may even have a mini-geyser spring up. This is completely normal. In fact, it’s exactly what you want. It means you’ve given the water under the pool a place to go rather than staying stuck under there, and pushing your pool out of the ground.

Simply continue to pump water out of the pool. The flow should stop after a little while.

Once you’ve done what you need to do, and you’re ready to refill the pool, replace the valves. It’s entirely possible that chiseling and twisting the valve out of place will mangle it, so you may need to get a new valve plug. Put some Teflon tape on the threads before twisting it into place to prevent leaking.

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Get to Work

You don’t want to leave any pool empty for too long. But leaving an inground pool empty and exposed to the air and sun for an extended period of time can damage the liner.

Have all your repair and improvement supplies on hand, work quickly, and get the pool filled up again in no more than one week.

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Never Use the Pool Pump to Drain the Pool

You might’ve seen advice here and there on the internet saying that to drain your pool, all you need to do is put your filter in backwash or waste mode, and use the pump to pull water out of the pool.

We do not recommend this method.

Your pump is connected to the pool’s skimmer. This is where water enters the filtration system, which is powered by the pump. And pool pump motors are water-cooled devices.

If you use the pump to pull water from the pool, as soon as the water level falls below the skimmer, your pump will start pulling in air. Without water to keep it cool while it runs, it will eventually overheat, and possibly break beyond repair, which means you’ll have to buy a new pool pump.

There are ways to avoid this, but frankly, the process is more complicated than it needs to be. When it comes to expensive pool equipment, we like to err on the side of caution and use simpler, safer methods.

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How to Drain an Inground Pool

Knowing what you’re doing before you start can help the process go more smoothly, and help you avoid costly damage.

1. Rent or buy a submersible pump.

You can likely rent one from a local hardware or home improvement store, but they’re not that expensive if you’d rather have one on hand. Place the submersible pump on the floor in the center of the deep end.

• Make sure the power cord is long enough to reach from the bottom of the deep end to the nearest outlet without being stretched. Avoid using an extension cord if possible.
• Also make sure the drainage hose is long enough to reach from the pump to the spot you’ll be using to dispose of the pool water.

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2. Monitor the Draining Process

Make sure all the hoses and cords stay connected, and that the drainage hose remains in directed at the disposal location to avoid any flooding issues.

3. Turn Off and Remove the Submersible Pump

You’ll reach a point where the water level is so low, the pump can no longer pull any water out of the pool, and you’re left with a smallish puddle. This is normal, and acceptable. The amount of TDS in that little puddle isn’t going to be enough to interfere with your chemical balance once you refill the pool.

4. Open a Hydrostatic Pressure Relief Valve

Remember, you need to give any groundwater accumulated under your pool an escape route to keep your pool from popping.

5. Perform the Work You Drained the Pool For

Repairing, painting, whatever you need to do, do it quickly so you can refill the pool as soon as possible.

6. Replace the Hydrostatic Pressure Relief Valve

Be sure to have a new valve plug on hand in case the original is damaged during removal. Use Teflon tape on the threads, and tightly twist the plug into the valve.

7. Refill the Pool

Put one or two (or more!) garden hoses in the pool, turn on the spigots, and keep an eye on the rising water level.

8. Turn on the Pool Pump

When the water reaches about the middle of the skimmer, turn the spigots off, remove the hoses, and turn the pool pump on. You may need to prime the pool pump again if it’s been off for quite a while.

9. Balance the Water

Because you’re starting with fresh, clean water, follow the same steps you use for pool opening every season.

10. Enjoy!

Get back into your regular maintenance routine, and enjoy your pool!

How Not to Drain an Above Ground Pool

Before you learn how to drain a pool, it might be helpful for you to see exactly how not to do it.

How to Drain an Above Ground Pool for Repairs

If you’re draining it to store it for the winter, skip ahead. If you want a complete guide on using just a hose to drain an above ground pool, be sure to check out our post on How to Drain an Above Ground Pool Even Without A Pump.

1. Rent or buy a submersible pump.

You can likely rent one from a local hardware or home improvement store, but they’re not that expensive if you’d rather have one on hand. Place the submersible pump on the floor in the center of the pool.

• Make sure the power cord is long enough to reach from the pump to the nearest outlet without being stretched. Avoid using an extension cord if possible.
• Also make sure the drainage hose is long enough to reach from the pump to the spot you’ll be using to dispose of the pool water.

2. Monitor the Draining Process

Make sure all the hoses and cords stay connected, and that the drainage hose remains in directed at the disposal location to avoid any flooding issues.

3. Turn Off and Remove the Submersible Pump

You’ll reach a point where the water level is so low, the pump can no longer pull any water out of the pool, and you’re left with a smallish puddle. This is normal.

4. Perform the Work You Drained the Pool For

If you’re repairing or replacing the liner, do it quickly so you can refill the pool as soon as possible.

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01/27/2023 09:00 pm GMT

5. Refill the Pool

Put one or two (or more!) garden hoses in the pool, turn on the spigots, and keep an eye on the rising water level.

6. Turn on the Pool Pump

When the water reaches about the middle of the skimmer, turn the spigots off, remove the hoses, and turn the pool pump on.

7. Balance the Water

You already know how to open an above ground pool, so follow those same steps for adding chemicals and balancing the water.

8. Enjoy!

Get back into your regular maintenance routine, and enjoy your pool!

How to Drain an Above Ground Pool for Storage

You have a couple of extra considerations when draining the pool to put it away for the winter.

1. Rent or buy a submersible pump.

You can likely rent one from a local hardware or home improvement store, but they’re not that expensive if you’d rather have one on hand. Place the submersible pump on the floor in the center of the pool.

• Make sure the power cord is long enough to reach from the pump to the nearest outlet without being stretched. Avoid using an extension cord if possible.
• Also make sure the drainage hose is long enough to reach from the pump to the spot you’ll be using to dispose of the pool water.

2. Monitor the Draining Process

Make sure all the hoses and cords stay connected, and that the drainage hose remains in directed at the disposal location to avoid any flooding issues.

3. Turn Off and Remove the Submersible Pump

You’ll reach a point where the water level is so low, the pump can no longer pull any water out of the pool, and you’re left with a smallish puddle. This is normal.

4. Remove the Remaining Water

You can do this easily with one of three methods:

• Use a Shop-Vac to vacuum the water out.
• Sweep the water out the pool drain.
• Remove the liner from the frame, and flip it over to dump the water out.

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5. Dry the Liner

You have a few options for this task as well.

• Use a leaf blower. This is the fastest and easiest method.
• Wipe it down with towels. Labor intensive, and you’ll probably need a lot of towels.
• Let it air dry. Caution: If the liner is left under a hot sun for too long, it can fade or become damaged.

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6. Fold the Liner

This is at least a two-person job. Lay the liner out on your yard. Avoid placing it on a hard surface like the driveway because this can scratch or tear it. Gently fold the liner into a 12″ x 12″ square. Just kidding! Just fold it as neatly as you can.

7. Store the Liner

Don’t be tempted to just toss it onto the floor of the pool shed or your garage. You may find some nasty surprises when you open it next season, like mold or holes chewed in it by mice.

Store the liner in a sturdy box with a lid to keep it dry and protected.

8. Protect the Pool Frame

If you plan to leave the frame set up, cover it with a tarp and secure it to keep it from blowing away in windy weather.

If you’re going to completely dismantle the pool, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and then store all the parts in a dry, clean area.

9. Look Forward to Next Year!

You can rest easy all winter knowing your pool is safely put away until next season.

How to Drain an Intex Pool for Repairs

If you’re draining your Intex pool to store it, you can skip ahead.

1. Remove the Cap From the Drain Valve

You’ll find this located on the outside of the pool, toward the bottom.

2. Connect a Garden Hose to the Drain Valve

You may need an Intex adapter to connect the hose to the drain valve. Then direct the other end of the hose to the area where you’re going to drain the water.

Tip: If the pool chemicals have dissipated enough that the water is neutral (test the water before you start draining), you can connect the hose to a sprinkler and water your yard or garden as your pool drains. Reuse that water rather than just letting it go down a sewer drain!

Important: Use that neutral water only on your yard or garden. It’s not suitable for consumption by humans or animals.

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3. Monitor the Draining Process

Make sure the hose stays connected, and that the water continues to go where it’s supposed to.

4. Perform the Repairs

Quickly patch the liner or fix whatever it is you need to fix so you can refill the pool as soon as possible.

5. Replace the Drain Cap

You’ll notice pretty quickly if you forget to put this part back on before you start refilling!

5. Refill the Pool

Put one or two (or more!) garden hoses in the pool, turn on the spigots, and keep an eye on the rising water level.

6. Turn on the Pool Pump

Once the water covers the top of the skimmer, and the skimmer cover can float, turn the spigots off, remove the hoses, and turn the pool pump on.

7. Balance the Water

Basic pool care and water maintenance are pretty much the same for Intex pools as any other pool, so just make sure you have all the necessary chemicals on hand, and test strips to adjust levels as necessary.

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8. Enjoy!

Get back into your regular maintenance routine, and enjoy your Intex pool!

How to Drain an Intex Pool for Storage

Intex pools are made to be easy to put up and put away.

1. Remove the Cap From the Drain Valve

You’ll find this located on the outside of the pool, toward the bottom.

2. Connect a Garden Hose to the Drain Valve

You may need an Intex adapter to connect the hose to the drain valve. Then direct the other end of the hose to the area where you’re going to drain the water.

Tip: If the pool chemicals have dissipated enough that the water is neutral (test the water before you start draining), you can connect the hose to a sprinkler and water your yard or garden as your pool drains. Reuse that water rather than just letting it go down a sewer drain!

Important: Use that neutral water only on your yard or garden. It’s not suitable for consumption by humans or animals.

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3. Monitor the Draining Process

Make sure the hose stays connected, and that the water continues to go where it’s supposed to.

4. Dry the Pool

Once the water has drained from the pool, you’ll need to dry the interior. You can leave the pool standing to air dry, though this will take longer, and you run the risk of debris falling into the pool while you wait, making more work for yourself.

If you’d rather speed up the process, you can use a Shop-Vac to remove the remaining water, or use soft towels to wipe the pool dry.

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5. Replace the Drain Cap

To keep everything together, and avoid losing such a small part, screw the pool drain cap back onto the valve. This will also help keep any tiny critters from finding their way into the folded pool once it’s put away.

6. Fold the Pool

Once the pool is empty and completely dry, fold the walls in on all sides. Then pull one side of the pool over until it meets the other side. This will be a lot easier if you get someone to help you. Continue folding the pool until it forms one long strip that measures about 3 or 4 feet wide. Then you can fold or roll it up for storage.

7. Store the Pool

Don’t be tempted to just toss it onto the floor of the pool shed or your garage. You may find some nasty surprises when you open it next season, like mold (especially if you didn’t dry it well enough) or holes chewed in it by mice.

Store the pool in a sturdy box with a lid to keep it dry and protected.

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8. Look Forward to Next Year!

You can rest easy all winter knowing your Intex pool is safely put away until next season.

Don’t Strain Your Brain When You Drain

Regardless of what type you have, learning how to drain a pool is an essential part of overall pool care. Once you’ve done it a time or two, it won’t seem so daunting. Just follow all the steps and take all the precautions, especially if you have an inground pool.

Being able to drain your pool so you can make repairs or make improvements like painting will ensure your pool not only remains in good working condition for many years to come, but looks good at the same time.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Drain a Pool of Any Kind appeared first on Swim University®.

Before you jump into it, though, we highly encourage you to read this entire article from beginning to end. Working with acid is not to be taken lightly, and you want to avoid damaging your pool. But more importantly, you want to stay safe. And we want you to stay safe.

What Does it Mean to Acid Wash a Pool?

We’re not just talking about a regular cleaning here. Anytime you include the word acid, it should be clear you’re not talking about a regular anything. You’re bringing out the big guns when you acid wash a pool.

You know how you can go to a dermatologist and have your face exfoliated with a mild acid? The thin, top layer of skin is removed, revealing newer, younger skin underneath. Of course, you’ll look like you have a sunburn for about a week, but the end result is a smoother, brighter complexion. That’s what an acid wash does for your pool.

More than just a surface clean, an acid wash actually strips a thin layer of plaster off the surface of the pool. Along with the plaster layer, stains left by chlorine, algae, minerals, and just plain dirt are removed, exposing a fresh, clean layer of plaster underneath.

Does removing plaster sound alarming? Don’t worry. Usually, a pool’s plaster coating is at least ½ an inch thick, and the acid removes a very thin layer.

What Kinds of Pools Can be Acid Washed?

This should be pretty self-explanatory, but let’s be clear, just in case. You will only acid wash an inground concrete or gunite pool.

An acid wash is not something to ever do on a vinyl-lined inground pool, or on an above ground pool. The acid will eat right through that vinyl, and then you’re looking at replacing the liner altogether.

When to Acid Wash Your Pool

No matter how well you keep up with pool maintenance and water balancing, your pool floor and walls will eventually start to see some wear.

Stains

Chlorine, minerals, and dirt will leave stains over time. If you get to the point where brushing and vacuuming aren’t working anymore, it might be time for an acid wash.

Algae

If you’ve ever had an algae problem, that might’ve left some staining as well. Or, if you encounter repeated algae blooms, you might not be getting all the spores off with regular cleaning. An acid wash will remove those spores, and let you start over with a fresh, algae-free surface.

Acid washing for algae is a last resort, though. Try other methods to get rid of pool algae first. Then, if you decide to acid wash your pool, be sure to also change your pool filter media to make sure there’s no algae residue in there, either.

Stagnation

If your pool has sat stagnant for a while, allowing algae and dirt to really set in, only an acid wash will bring the pool back to life. If you don’t properly winterize your pool, that counts as stagnation, and may also affect the appearance of the plaster.

Repairs

In some cases, you may not need to acid wash the entire pool. For example, if you’re doing some pool plaster repair, acid washing the spot you’re working on can get rid of algae before you apply new plaster. Can you imagine if algae spores were mixed in with the new plaster? You’d never get rid of them, and the algae would just keep coming back over and over.

Wear and Tear

Sometimes, it’s not stains, algae, or stagnation that necessitate an acid wash. It may just be that the plaster is discolored or faded from years of chemicals and being exposed to the hot sun. In those cases, an acid wash will improve the appearance of your pool, and bring back the clean, clear look it started with.

How Often to Acid Wash Your Pool

Even though an acid wash will only remove a thin layer of plaster, it’s not something you want to do every year. You’d run out of plaster pretty quickly!

Every five years or so is sufficient, barring any serious algae bloom problems.

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Acid Safety

Did we mention we’re talking about using acid? It’s a caustic substance that requires specific and consistent precautions to avoid injuries.

Wear the Right Kind of Mask

The type of acid you use to acid wash a pool—muriatic acid—gives off noxious fumes. It can cause respiratory difficulties, especially if you already have an upper respiratory condition such as asthma.

So when you take on this task, not just any mask will do. You need one that will block acid fumes.

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01/28/2023 05:13 am GMT

Wear the Right Kind of Gloves

Gardening gloves, dishwashing gloves, work gloves—no. None of those are enough. You need chemical-resistant gloves that specifically resist acid to ensure the acid doesn’t eat through the material and reach your hands.

If you do happen to get any acid on your skin, rinse it off immediately, and keep the spot under running water for at least 30 seconds. You may still end up with a slight burn, but it won’t be too bad. If you don’t rinse the acid off right away, though, you can end up with a serious burn.

When you’re done acid washing your pool, rinse the gloves off thoroughly, and apply some soda ash to them to neutralize any acid residue. Then rinse them again before removing them.

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Wear Safety Goggles

Acid may not do much damage to your skin (as long as it’s rinsed off quickly). But it can seriously hurt your eyes. If the acid damages your cornea, you may even lose your sight. Literally.

Always, always, always wear safety goggles when working with acid. Put them on before you begin, and don’t take them off until you’re done, the acid is neutralized and put away, and you’ve removed the gloves that were touching acid. Rinse and dry the goggles before storing them.

Important: If acid happens to splash into your eye, thoroughly rinse your eye with clean water for a minimum of 15 minutes. Do not rub your eye. When you’re done rinsing, seek medical attention immediately.

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Wear Appropriate Clothing

It may be hot out when you decide to acid wash your pool, but we highly recommend you wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and closed-toe shoes.

All it takes is one tiny splash of acid on your skin, and you can end up with a burn, and possibly a scar. And if you were to drop the acid container, and a bunch of it splashed on you? We don’t need to describe that scene, do we?

Note: Chemical-resistant boots are your best choice for footwear when you acid wash a pool. Make sure they resist acid. Remember to rinse them off before exiting the pool. And remove them before you go back into your house.

Note for Women: If you have trouble finding a pair of women’s chemical-resistant boots, use a size conversion chart to choose a man’s size that will fit you.

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Avoid Acid Splashes

The best way to do this is to pour the acid slowly. And then set the acid container down slowly and gently so none of it splashes out.

When you’re not using the acid, tightly seal the container and set it out of the way where it can’t be knocked over.

When you’re done acid washing your pool, put the acid container away in a cool, dry space that can’t be accessed by children or pets.

Dilute Acid in the Right Order

You’re not going to add full-strength acid to your pool surfaces. It will eat away the plaster before you can rinse it off. You’ll need to dilute it first.

Always add the acid to the water you’re diluting it with. Never add water to acid. It can cause a boilover.

When acid and water are mixed, a large amount of heat is produced. If you add acid to water, the majority of the compound is water, which controls the heat, and prevents the mixture from boiling over.

If you add water to acid, the compound produced is mostly acid, and the amount of heat released will cause the mixture to immediately and violently boil over and splash out of the container.

Because the compound is still mostly acid at that point, what splashes out will be extremely caustic, and can burn you and the surrounding area.

So once again: Always add acid to water, never the other way around.

Important: Don’t let any other chemicals come into contact with acid. Depending on the chemical, toxic fumes, small explosions, or both can result.

Keep Kids and Pets Away

While you’re in the process of acid washing your pool, children and pets should not be anywhere near the pool area. You might think, it’s OK for them to watch from a few feet away where they can’t get splashed.

But remember, acid gives off fumes, and if the wind is right, your child or pet can inhale those fumes, which may damage their lungs.

It’s not worth taking any chances. Keep kids and pets inside and completely away from the pool area during an acid wash.

Don’t Acid Wash Your Pool on a Windy Day

If the day you choose to acid wash your pool turns out to be windy, reschedule. You don’t want acid fumes blowing into your home or the neighbor’s yard where they can injure someone.

Don’t Rush the Job

You’ll need to work quickly to keep the acid from doing any damage. But trying to rush through a process is just asking for trouble. It’s how mistakes are made.

Read all the directions first, have everything you need on hand, and closely follow all instructions.

Keep the Pool Deck Clear

Falling into a pool full of water usually won’t hurt, unless you hit the water belly first. But falling into an empty pool can be lethal.

Clear the pool deck of all chairs, toys, planters, and anything else that may present a trip hazard while the pool is empty. And stay aware of your surroundings while you acid wash the pool. Make sure anyone who’s helping you is also cognizant of the potential dangers.

Have a Wastewater Disposal Plan

You’ll need to know how to dispose of your pool water when you drain it in order to acid wash it. Some cities and municipalities have strict regulations about wastewater disposal. You may even be fined if you don’t follow those rules.

More importantly, you’ll need to know how and where to dispose of the acid/water mixture you’ll be left with when you finish washing your pool. Even if the acid mixture has been neutralized, it can still damage plant life, and even kill animals.

Before you start to acid wash your pool, check with your local water authority about how to properly dispose of the pool water and the acid/water mixture.

Follow the Manufacturers’ Instructions

In addition to all the safety precautions we can think of, you may find a few more on the manufacturers’ labels. Read them before you even open the acid container, and follow them to the letter.

Disclaimer: We are not acid experts or doctors. The precautions we’re outlining here are based on experience and common sense, but we are not responsible for any accidents that may occur, whether you follow these precautions—and the manufacturer’s—or not. Do your due diligence and make sure you’re doing everything you can to avoid injuring yourself and others. If you don’t feel you can maintain a safe environment when using acid, hire a professional to acid wash your pool.

Do not take the handling of acid lightly. Wear the recommended safety gear, and follow all instructions both for the process, and on the manufacturer’s labels to ensure your safety and well-being.

The Acid Washing Process

Before you begin, make sure you have everything you need handy. You don’t want to have to stop mid-wash to run to the pool or hardware store.

What You’ll Need

• submersible pump (with a power cord long enough to reach to the bottom of the deep end without an extension cord)
• drainage hose
• 2 garden hoses (long enough to reach all areas of the pool)
• spray nozzle
• algae brush
• acid brush with a long handle
• watering can with a long spout and a showering end or attachment
• water test kit
• Acid Magic Muriatic Acid Replacement
• soda ash, also called washing soda
• safety goggles
• acid safety mask
• acid-resistant gloves
• long pants
• long-sleeved shirt
• acid-resistant boots
• a friend or family member to help out

Note: You could use regular muriatic acid to acid wash your pool. But we recommend Acid Magic because it’s not as strong and doesn’t produce as many fumes, but is just as effective. It’s still acid, though, so be sure to take all the proper safety precautions to prevent injury.

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1. Drain and Clean the Pool

Follow detailed instructions for how to drain a pool to avoid causing expensive damage to your inground pool.

As the pool drains, use the algae brush scrub all the surfaces to remove dirt, debris, and algae (if there is any) before it can dry. Once it’s dry, it’s much more difficult to remove.

As the water level drops, wet down the surfaces with the hose and spray nozzle to remove the debris you just scrubbed off, and to keep the plaster from baking in the sun.

Once the pool is empty, collect any debris that was too large to drain out (leaves, twigs, etc.), and rinse any remaining dirt from the floor.

Note: After the pool is drained, if you pressure wash it, you may be able to use less acid for the wash. This will also depend on what kind of condition your pool is in.

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2. Replace the Hydrostatic Pressure Relief Valve

You will have removed one or more valves when you drained the pool. Replace them now to prevent any acid mixture from seeping into the groundwater.

3. Dilute the Acid

In the watering can, add equal parts Acid Magic (or muriatic acid, if you prefer) to water. If you pressure washed your pool after draining, and it made a difference in the plaster’s appearance, you can try adding less acid than a 1:1 ratio. The less acid you can use, the better as it will be gentler on the pool plaster.

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4. Prepare the Garden Hoses

Be prepared to use a lot of water here. Connect one garden hose to a spigot, put the other end in the pool, and turn the water on. Do not connect a spray nozzle to the hose. Keep the water running.

Connect the second garden hose to another spigot, put the other end in the pool, attach the spray nozzle, and turn the water on. Keep the water running.

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5. Acid Wash the Pool

It’s showtime! Start in the bowl of the deep end—the area around the drain. Work in sections. Use the hose without the nozzle to wet down the surface before you pour the acid mixture onto it. Pouring acid onto a dry surface can damage the plaster.

Pour the acid mixture in a circular pattern, and have the person helping you follow behind with the acid brush and scrub the surface. Let the mixture sit for 30 to 60 seconds, depending on how dirty it is.

Rinse the scrubbed area with the spray nozzle, then add a few pounds of soda ash to the water that collects in the bowl to neutralize the acid in it.

Continue to work your way around the bottom of the pool, pouring, scrubbing, and rinsing.

When you’re done with the floor, move to the walls, again working in sections. Start with the shallow end steps. Pour the acid mixture from the top of the pool wall, letting it run down, with your helper following behind, scrubbing the walls (Or you might want to take turns. If you make them do all the scrubbing, you may not have a friend by the end of this task.). Let the mixture sit for 60 to 90 seconds. Rinse.

Continue to work your way around the pool walls, pouring, scrubbing, and rinsing, and finishing up in the deep end.

Note: If the 1:1 acid mixture isn’t fully removing stains or brightening the plaster, you can increase the strength of the mixture, or try scrubbing a little harder, or both. You can also go over problem spots a second time with a weaker acid mixture.

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6. Neutralize the Acid as You Go

Even though you added some soda ash to the deep end bowl when you started, you’ll need to continually add more as you add more acid to the pool. This will ensure the growing puddle of wastewater remains neutral (or as close to neutral as possible), which will keep the acid from etching the bottom of the bowl, and help prevent any accidents should someone trip and fall into the water.

You’ll also need to ensure the water is neutral before you dispose of it to prevent environmental damage.

Approximately 2 pounds of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid should be sufficient to neutralize the mixture.

Important: Check the manufacturer’s instructions on both the acid and soda ash to make sure you use an appropriate ratio for neutralization.

As you work, broadcast the soda ash over the puddle, and stir it in with the acid brush or your telescoping pole.

When you’re done with the acid wash, you’ll have a large, foamy puddle of wastewater at the bottom of the deep end.

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7. Test the Acid/Water Mixture Before Disposing

Use the water test kit to test the collection pool’s pH level. Try to get the water as close to neutral as possible, adding more soda ash if necessary.

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8. Pump Out the Wastewater

Break out the submersible pump you used to drain the pool, and set it up in the collection pool. Once it has drained as much water as possible, rinse the deep end with clean water, and pump that out.

Because the dirty water will sit on the floor of the deep end for a while, it may cause a little staining in that area. If this happens, drain, rinse, and then pour a weak acid/water solution over the spot to clean the plaster. Scrub if necessary, then rinse.

Neutralize that water and dilute it. Then pump it out.

Important: Refer back to your wastewater disposal plan to ensure you’re following local regulations, and not harming the environment or any animals by improperly disposing of acidic water.

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9. Rinse the Deep End Again

Rinse the deep end floor one more time, and pump out whatever water is left.

10. Refill the Pool

After you’ve ensured the deep end bowl is clean and free of any wastewater or acid, you can start refilling your pool.

Acid Washing Precautions

You’ll need to take certain measures during the actual acid washing process to prevent damage to your pool.

• Do not let the acid mixture sit on any surface for too long. It can damage the plaster.
• Acid does not naturally deplete. It must be rinsed away or it will continue to eat away at the plaster. Triple rinse horizontal surfaces like steps or swim-outs where acid can collect.
• Do not use a pressure washer to rinse the acid mixture away. The strong blast will spray the acid mixture onto surfaces where you don’t want it, including yourself. The regular hose nozzle is fine.
• Keep the acid from wearing a path into the floor plaster by using the acid brush and the spray hose to continually move it toward the collection pool in the deep end bowl.

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You Can Always Hire a Pro

So what do you think? Does this sound like something you can do? Of course it is. But is it something you want to do? Maybe not, and that’s OK. Draining your pool is a big deal that can cause damage if done incorrectly, and working with acid can be nerve-racking.

If you’re at all uncomfortable with any part of the process to acid wash a pool, don’t hesitate to hire a pro. You’ll be able to rest easy knowing everything will be done right. Then all you’ll have to worry about is getting back to enjoying your pool. Well, and that big water bill.

Happy Swimming!

The post How To Acid Wash a Pool in 10 Steps appeared first on Swim University®.

But we think it’s totally doable. The first step is just choosing the right pool paint for the type of surface your pool has. And if you’re not starting with a blank slate, you also need to know what kind of paint is already on your pool walls. Once you’ve determined those things and chosen the right paint, it’s smooth rolling.

Is Pool Paint Different From Other Paints?

Absolutely! It has to be completely waterproof, for one thing. It also has to stand up to days, months, and even years of ultraviolet rays, as well as chlorine and other chemicals you use to keep your pool clean and sparkling.

Then there are the scratches and scrapes it gets from pool toys, rambunctious kids, and maybe even your dog. Pool paint is the workhorse of paints.

It’s also not cheap, and you’ll need a lot of it. So before you incur that expense, not to mention the hours it’s going to take to finish, ask yourself whether your pool really needs a new paint job.

How to Know When to Paint Your Pool

If all you want to do is change the color, hey, more power to you. But if painting your pool doesn’t exactly sound like the most fun you could have, you may want to hold off until new pool paint is absolutely necessary.

Be on the lookout for a few things to know when that time comes.

The Pool Paint is Stained or Faded

Any paint fades over time, especially outdoors where it’s exposed to the elements, and especially pool paint that’s exposed to chemicals. You may also see some stains if your water has high metal or mineral content.

Before undertaking a huge paint job, you can acid wash your pool. The acid will remove dirt, scale, and stains, and can dramatically improve the appearance of your pool, depending on how dirty and stained it is.

If an acid wash doesn’t work, or if you just prefer, you can also apply new pool paint to brighten up a faded pool, and cover up stains and waterline rings.

Note: You won’t want to just paint directly over stains and scaling. Just like any other paint job, you’ll need to prepare the surface, which will include cleaning and possibly sanding. No amount or type of paint magically covers surface problems. They will eventually make their way through the new coat and you’ll be right back where you started.

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The Paint is Slippery

Because they’re waterproof, pool paints are slippery. This can sometimes make getting out of the pool more difficult, and may even pose a safety issue if you have small children or pets. And if the steps are slippery, anyone can slip and fall.

If your pool is slippery, you can fix the problem with a new paint job in one of two ways.

First, you can mix a few tablespoons of very fine sand or soft rubber particles into the paint you use on the steps, any swim outs or benches, and perhaps the shallowest part of the pool.

Alternatively, you can broadcast a few tablespoons of soft sand over the steps after you’ve painted them.

Important: Don’t use more than just a few tablespoons of sand in or on the paint. Any more than that, and the steps and benches will be gritty and even painful to walk or sit on. Too gritty, and they may even damage wet skin.

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The Paint Has Bubbles or Blisters

If this is an issue in your pool, you may not have to repaint the entire surface. Pool paint will blister if the surface was not prepared properly. As with any paint, pool paint needs to be applied to a clean, dry (unless you’re using acrylic paint), and at least mostly smooth surface.

If the surface was dirty, wet, or had any rough spots, you’ll eventually see bubbling. It could also be that the paint was applied too thickly, or the surface was too hot.

Whatever the cause, if your pool paint is blistering, you can just repair and repaint those spots rather than the entire pool. Of course, if your pool surfaces are also faded or stained, or suffering any other problems, it’s a good idea to paint the entire pool while you have it emptied.

Important: Mid-summer is not the best time to paint your pool. The hot surface will cause the paint to eventually blister. Wait for fall or winter (if it’s mild where you live), and paint during cool, dry weather.

The Paint is Chalky

This actually isn’t a problem with the paint. It’s about your pool chemistry.

If you don’t keep your water chemistry balanced—specifically the pH and alkalinity levels—or if you use too much or too many harsh chemicals, the pool paint will eventually start to break down. When this happens, the pool surface will become chalky. You’ll notice a white, powdery residue that will rub off on your hands, feet, and bathing suits.

The pool water will also become hazy, and won’t clear up no matter how much you shock it. In fact, calcium hypochlorite shock can contribute to chalking over time.

Once this occurs, the only solution is to repaint the pool. And then make sure to keep your water chemistry properly balanced to avoid future chalking.

Note: We think calcium hypochlorite is the best pool shock you can use. To reduce the effect it may have on your paint, simply dissolve it in a bucket of warm water before adding it to your pool. If you prefer, you can use non-chlorine shock instead.

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Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Pool Paint Types

You have three primary types of pool paint to choose from.

Epoxy Paint

• Base: Solvent
• Durability: The most resistant to abrasions, stains, and chemicals
• Lifespan: Up to eight years
• Finish: Satin
• Compatible Surfaces: Unpainted concrete, plaster, gunite, fiberglass
• Compatible Existing Paint(s): Epoxy
• Additional Information: Once dry, a coat measures approximately eight mil (a unit of measure that equates to one thousandth of an inch), which can help smooth rough surfaces. It has the longest drying time: 5 to 7 days for outdoor pools, and 10 to 14 days for indoor.

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01/28/2023 06:55 am GMT

Water-Based Acrylic Paint

• Base: Water (obviously)
• Durability: Weak chemical and stain resistance
• Lifespan: Up to two years
• Finish: Eggshell
• Compatible Surfaces: Concrete, plaster
• Compatible Existing Paint(s): Acrylic, epoxy, rubber
• Additional Information: It offers the quickest drying time (3 days for outdoor pools; 6 days for indoor), making it the ideal choice when you want to refill your pool as soon as possible.

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Premium Acrylic Paint

• Base: Water
• Durability: Weak chemical and stain resistance
• Lifespan: Up to three years
• Finish: High gloss
• Compatible Surfaces: Unpainted concrete, plaster
• Compatible Existing Paint(s): Acrylic, epoxy, rubber
• Additional Information: It was created to replace chlorinated and synthetic rubber paints, and it complies with Environmental Protection Agency regulations regarding volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Dry time is 5 days for outdoor pools, and 7 days for indoor.

What About Rubber Paint?

We have just one word for this type of paint: nope. Chlorinated and synthetic rubber paints are chemically resistant, which is why people starting using it to paint swimming pools. However, the substances that make rubber paints resistant to chemicals are polychlorinated biphenyls, or PCBs, which are known to cause detrimental neurological, reproductive, and endocrine effects, as well as cancer and other conditions.

PCBs are no longer produced in the United States, but not all paint is manufactured in the United States. You’ll still find chlorinated and synthetic rubber paints available from some manufacturers and retailers, but we highly recommend using one of the other three types to protect the people who swim in your pool from being exposed to PCBs. It’s not worth the risk.

Before You Choose a Pool Paint

If you’re starting with a brand-new pool, you can use whatever type of pool paint you prefer, as long as it’s compatible with the pool’s surface.

But if your pool is already painted, you need to know what kind paint is already on it. Ignore either of these two important factors, and you could have a mess on your hands.

Identify the Existing Paint Type

If you’re not the one who painted your pool, it’s pretty easy to figure out what kind of pool paint was used.

• Apply a small amount of denatured alcohol onto a clean cloth, and rub it on the pool surface. If the paint softens, you probably have water-based acrylic paint.
• Apply a small amount of xylol (also called xylene) to a clean cloth, and rub it on the pool surface.
  • If nothing happens, it’s probably epoxy.
  • If the paint softens, apply a small amount of the xylol to your finger, and rub the surface in a circular motion.
    • If the paint softens and becomes stringy, it’s probably chlorinated rubber paint.
    • If the paint softens but does not become stringy, it’s probably synthetic rubber.

If these tests are inconclusive, or you’re just still not sure what kind of paint is on your pool, you can send a small paint chip to a paint manufacturer called Ramuc, and they will analyze it for you. Other paint manufacturers may offer the same service.

Once you’ve determined what kind of paint you’re working with, you can choose one that’s compatible with both the surface and the existing paint, and will give you the best finish and performance.

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Time to Call in a Pro?

If all of this still sounds too daunting, you’re not sure how to drain a pool in order to paint it, or you just don’t have the time or the inclination to paint your own pool, you can always call in a professional. Just be prepared for the increased expense as you’ll not only have to cover materials, but labor as well.

Paint Your Masterpiece!

Well, OK, maybe not quite a masterpiece. But we guarantee that once you’ve painted your pool, you’ll feel a tremendous sense of accomplishment, as you should. It’s a big job! But it’s not an impossible one.

As long as you properly identify your current pool surface and paint types, and then choose the correct pool paint, you’ll be on your way to a bright, new surface that will make your pool even more beautiful than it was before. And hey, go ahead and sign that baby when you’re done. It’s not every day you create such a large piece of artwork, right?

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Choose The Right Pool Paint For Your Inground Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

If you’re reading this, you may have just discovered the need to patch your vinyl pool liner, and that’s never a fun discovery. You may even be freaking out a little. Take a breath. Unless you have a very old liner, a massive tear, or a tree fell on your pool, you can probably patch it.

Why Should You Learn How to Patch a Pool Liner?

Depending on the size and location of a leak, you could face serious damage if it isn’t addressed quickly.

Above Ground Pool Dangers

If an above ground pool springs a leak, the water will drain until it reaches the level of the hole. If the leak is near the top rail, the water might only go down a couple of inches. But if it’s near the bottom of the wall or the floor of the pool, the extensive water loss could collapse the pool and turn your yard into a muddy mess.

Inground Pool Dangers

A leak in your inground pool liner can also cause a lot of damage. The water can create a pocket of liquid under your pool deck or cause soil erosion, leading to instability and deck cave-ins. It can also cause rust on steel pools, or erosion of concrete ones.

While those issues can be repaired, you can only find them if you completely remove and replace your inground pool liner. The best course of action is to stop the leak as quickly as you can.

Tip: If you’ve just found a leak and you’re trying to figure out what to do: Grab a roll of duct tape, and cut a piece a bit larger than the hole. You can stick it right under water and rub it onto your liner. It won’t last forever, but it’ll help keep the water in your pool until you can properly patch it.

Note: If your pool is concrete and develops cracks (which it will over time) that need to be patched, pool plaster repair is a whole other task with its own tools and precautions.

The Practicalities of Pool Liner Patching

So your pool is losing water, which means your liner has sprung a leak. Or does it? That information is key before you start patching anything.

Leak or Just Evaporation?

Most pools lose an average of about ¼ to ½ an inch of water every day to evaporation. But if you notice you’re losing an inch or more per day? That sounds like a leak. Maybe.

Confirm the Leak

Use the bucket test to be sure your suspected pool leak isn’t just evaporation.

Locate the Leak

When you’re sure you’ve got a leak, use the ink method to find the exact spot you need to patch. Determine whether the hole is small enough to patch, then whether you need to patch it wet or dry.

How Big is Too Big?

Patches are temporary. Some will last for years, but they’re not likely to last 15 years. And the bigger a tear is, the more likely the edges of the patch will get snagged, curl up, or pull away.

When the patch comes up on its own, you may be able to repair it. We’ll refrain from examining how meta it is to repair a repair. But if the patch gets caught on something and pulled off, it could further rip the liner, and then you’ll have a bigger problem than you started with.

No hard and fast rules apply to the size of leaks that can be successfully patched. You could have a 2-inch patch fall off after a day or a 10-inch patch stay in place for five years. The more important factor to consider is whether your liner is worth trying to patch.

If your liner is two years old and in great shape except for an 8-inch tear on the back wall, it’s certainly worth trying a patch. The tear is large, but the vinyl is otherwise strong and in a spot that won’t get much traffic.

If your liner 15 years old with a 2-inch tear next to the stairs, you definitely need to patch it to control water loss and prevent damage. But you also need to start shopping for a new liner.

An older liner is thinner, more prone to pinholes and weak spots, and more likely to spring more leaks. Patching may extend the life of your liner, but know that this leak is likely a symptom that the liner is nearing the end of its life.

Note: Areas of the liner close to the stairs, bead, or any of the fittings have the weight of the pool water pulling on them. They’re under more stress than other areas, so patches there may be less likely to hold up long term.

Instantly Stop Leaks

Quick fixes come in three flavors. All three can be applied underwater or dry.

Waterproof Tape

Not specifically a vinyl pool patching product, waterproof tapes are marketed for all sorts of quick repairs. It’s similar to duct tape, but clear, waterproof, and UV resistant. The tape can be overlapped to create larger sections for patching.

It’s low cost, durable, and easy to re-do if necessary. It’s best for smaller patch jobs because it tends to peel.

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Peel-and-Stick Patches

As easy as waterproof tape, but made from real vinyl and designed for use in pools and on inflatable pool items. Some peel-and-stick patches are even pre-cut in perfect, neat circles. The round shape makes them less likely to peel up around the edges.

Just remove the paper backing, and press it over the leak. These are also inexpensive and best used on small punctures and tears.

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Vinyl Patch Kit

If you need to seal a slightly larger hole or you’re hoping for a longer-term fix, you can grab a patch kit. Kits include large chunks of liner and special vinyl adhesive that works underwater. Some come with blue and clear vinyl.

Patch kits for soft-sided above ground pools also include a piece of special laminated polyvinyl chloride (PVC) material, so you can properly patch the outside of the pool walls.

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01/27/2023 05:44 pm GMT

Wet or Dry Patch?

If the pool’s water level has dropped to the level of a wall leak, it’s okay to patch it dry. You don’t need to drain your pool to apply a patch to any leak, though.

How to Patch a Pool Liner Underwater

Letting all the water out can cause above ground pool walls to collapse. Emptying any pool with a vinyl liner dries it out and exposes it to damaging ultraviolet (UV) rays, which can make the liner brittle. And draining an inground pool can cause it to literally pop out of the ground if you’re not careful. It’s best to patch the liner underwater, unless the leak exposed it.

Important: Never drain an inground pool unless it’s absolutely necessary—not even before a hurricane—because it can further weaken your liner and even cause structural damage. If it’s necessary, and you’re not sure how to drain a pool, learn the process before you start, or hire a professional to do it for you.

You’ll need:

• Scissors
• Non-abrasive scouring pad
• Weight (pool cleaner head or brick wrapped in plastic wrap)
• Swimming goggles (if needed)
• Vinyl patch kit or vinyl adhesive
• Dauber applicator or craft stick (to spread adhesive)
• Patching vinyl

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1. Clean the Area

Any debris, algae, sunscreen or other stuff stuck to your pool walls makes it harder for a patch or adhesive to adhere. Use a non-abrasive scouring pad to gently clean the vinyl around the hole. Do not scrub. You don’t want to make the hole any bigger.

2. Trim the Patch

If you’re not using peel-and-stick patches, cut the patching vinyl into a circle. Be sure it’s at least two inches larger in diameter than the hole. For example, if the rip is three inches long, the patch must be five inches in diameter.

3. Apply Adhesive

For peel-and-stick patches, remove the paper backing to expose the adhesive side. For all other patches, be sure it’s free of debris, then use the dauber to apply a generous amount of adhesive. Make sure it reaches all the edges.

4. Taco ‘Bout It

Fold the patch in half like a taco, with the sticky side out, then submerge it.

5. Stick It

Holding the patch over the hole, slowly and gently open the patch taco while smoothing it onto the pool liner. Press out any air bubbles, then hold the patch in place for two minutes. The adhesive needs to cure to reach its full strength, so resist the urge to tug on the patch to check it.

6. Apply Weight

Some patch products recommend putting weight on your patch for 24 hours while the adhesive cures. It’s next to impossible to apply weight to your pool wall. But if your patch is in a spot where it’s possible to do so, rest your pool cleaner head or a clean brick covered in plastic wrap on top of the patch.

7. Double Patch It

Placing a second patch over the first won’t make your fix any stronger, but if it makes you feel more at ease, there’s no reason you can’t double up. If you do, be sure to let the first patch cure completely before applying the second. Cut the second patch at least two inches larger in diameter than the first patch (making it four inches larger than the hole), so it can adhere to the pool liner and the first patch.

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01/27/2023 10:47 pm GMT

Easy Soft-Sided Vinyl Pool Patching

Intex-style pools are made from slightly different material than vinyl pool liners, but they can also be patched, even on the outside. You don’t need to empty them, either.

Patch kits for this type of pool usually include clear vinyl, blue vinyl, and exterior patch material (laminated PVC). The clear is for top ring repairs, the blue is for interior repairs, and the laminated PVC is for outer wall repairs. The adhesive works for all three. If you’re concerned about risks associated with PVC exposure, look for patch kits with bisphenol A (BPA)-free patching vinyl.

You can also find peel-and-stick patches for this type of pool, which may be easier to use.

Patching soft-sided pools follows the same process as with any vinyl liner, except when patching the top ring. Fully inflate the ring, mark the hole, and apply adhesive around it. Then apply adhesive to the clear patch and apply it. Press on it for a few seconds, then slightly deflate the ring so the adhesive can cure without pressure. After 12 hours, you can reinflate the ring.

Intex Wet Vinyl Plastic Repair Patch - 6 Count

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When Patches Aren’t Enough

The road to a brand-new pool liner is paved with good intentions and waterproof tape. Eventually, no matter how good you are with a dauber and adhesive, your liner will give up the ghost. Knowing how to patch a pool liner can buy you time to find a replacement liner without letting leaks destroy your pool or property.

Once your liner has a patch or two, be sure to keep an eye them. If they start to pull up, work a little adhesive under the edges and smooth them back down. You can also double patch by smoothing a larger patch over one that’s starting to give out. Just remember, pool patches won’t last forever. But if applied correctly, you may well keep enjoying your pool liner for years to come.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Instantly Patch Any Pool Liner appeared first on Swim University®.

When you make it part of your regular pool maintenance, cleaning your deck, repairing cracks, and sealing the concrete can save you from stress and expensive fixes, not to mention help keep all your toes intact.

How Pool Deck Resurfacing Makes Your Life Easier

Aside from the fact that cracked concrete looks a little shabby, too many cracks can make your pool area extremely dangerous for your swimmers and your wallet.

Sharp concrete edges aren’t exactly friendly to bare feet. And even a light fall on concrete while wearing a swimsuit can mean more than just skinned knees.

Then there’s the financial danger of poorly maintained concrete. When water seeps into unattended cracks, it can end up collecting behind the walls of your pool. Too much water can shift the soil and damage the structure, cracking your liner and causing a pool leak.

We probably don’t need to remind you how expensive that can be, but we’re going to anyway.

• Finding a leak yourself costs nothing. But if you can’t find it, you’ll spend a few hundred dollars for a pro to find and repair the leak.
• Having a professional do a vinyl patch job can cost a couple hundred dollars.
• Replacing an entire vinyl liner can cost more than a thousand dollars.
• Repairing your concrete foundation can run about $65 per linear foot, depending on what type of liner you have and where you live.
• Filling in hollow spots behind your concrete foundation can cost between several hundred and more than a thousand dollars depending on the size of your pool.

So you see how a few seemingly innocuous cracks can lead to expensive pool repairs. But you can avoid those repairs by resurfacing your pool deck and then keeping up with regular concrete maintenance.

Where Those Darn Cracks Come From

Overall, concrete is a pretty durable material. But if it has one major weakness, it’s the weather. Even though it looks solid, concrete contracts and expands with changes in temperature. A 40°F (4°C) drop in temperature can result in a 0.03 inch contraction. It might not seem like much, but it’s enough to cause cracks.

Another factor is improperly laid concrete. If the concrete used for your deck was improperly mixed or finished on a particular windy day, it can stress the slab and lead to surface or structural cracks. The problem is, you won’t know it was poorly done until it’s too late.

How to Tackle Common Concrete Pool Deck Repairs

Have you already noticed a few cracks in your concrete pool deck? Don’t panic. You can head off the major damage and costly repairs by making a few fixes as soon as you see those cracks appear.

Live Somewhere Cold? Read This First

If you live in the kind of place where you joke about having winter eight months out of the year, concrete maintenance can be a chore and a half. That’s because exposure to cold weather adds a slew of additional cracking opportunities for your deck.

It also means you need to be careful about when you repair your cracks. If you live in an area with spring blizzards and summer hail storms, you need to pay attention to the forecast before you even consider doing repairs.

You need at least 24 hours of non-freezing conditions before laying concrete. You also want to make sure your repair concrete is just as cold as or colder than the ambient air temperature when you place it.

Cold concrete has a longer curing time, giving it more strength and durability in freezing conditions. Warm mixtures dry faster, which means less overall strength.

Above all, be sure to read your concrete manufacturer’s instructions when laying in a cold weather area. They will often have the best recommendations for their product.

Repairing Cracks

The smaller the crack is, the easier it is to repair. Once you do your own minor pool deck resurfacing a few times, it’ll be a chore as easy as washing dishes or mowing the lawn.

For larger cracks, you may want to speak to a professional if this is your first repair job. Watching a professional can give you a better sense of how to tackle a large repair later.

What You Need

• Garden hose
• Wire brush
• Chisel
• Pre-mixed mortar
• Water
• Epoxy paste
• Trowel or wood float
• Heavy-duty paint brush
• Paint thinner

Red Devil 0644 Concrete Patch - 1 qt. - Gray

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Instructions

1. Spray the cracked area with your garden hose. Make sure to clear as much debris as possible from the crack. Treat it like cleaning a cut—you want to make sure all the bad stuff is out.
2. Find any hollow areas of the crack by tapping along the edges with the end of your wire brush. (Fun fact: This is called sounding the concrete.) If an area of concrete is higher pitched when tapped, that means it’s hollow.
3. Carefully chisel away any hollow concrete until you’re left with solid concrete. This may mean widening the crack, but it will keep you from doing multiple repairs in the same area.
4. Use your wire brush to clear any debris from the crack.
5. Let the concrete dry.
6. Important: Mortar and epoxy can dry really fast! Make sure you have everything ready to go before you start mixing.
7. Once the surface is dry, use your trowel to mix the mortar (if necessary) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
8. Add the epoxy paste to the mortar according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
9. Use the trowel to place the mortar-epoxy mixture into the crack. Do your best to fill it completely. Any air pockets can cause damage later.
10. Smooth the repaired surface with your trowel or wood float until it’s even with the surrounding concrete.
11. Immediately clean the mortar and epoxy off your tools using paint thinner, followed by a thorough rinse in water.
12. Let the repaired concrete dry for at least 24 hours before walking or placing anything on it.

Tip: Remember to regularly check your deck during the off-season. Just because you’re not using it doesn’t mean cracks may not be developing. Even if it’s too cold to do any repairs, it’s better to keep track of potential problem areas throughout the year so you can fix them as soon as possible.

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Leveling Concrete

Sometimes the ground under your deck can compress. Concrete is, after all, pretty heavy. Since you often lay concrete in sections rather than a single strip, sunken sections can create an uneven path. These disparate levels can create a more suitable environment for concrete cracking and toe stubbing.

In this case, you need to either replace your current concrete, or level the slab. And if the internet has taught us anything, it’s that someone has DIY instructions for every home project.

But you have to ask yourself: is a DIY project worth my time and frustration? Will I save that much money doing it on my own?

In the case of leveling concrete (which is sometimes called slabjacking or mudjacking), the answer is probably no. Do not do this on your own, unless you’re a professional mason. This project requires some serious tools—like a diamond-tipped core drill and a hydraulic concrete pump—that you probably don’t have lying around.

Save yourself the time, stress, and money by leaving this pool deck repair to the professionals.

How to Reduce the Need for Repairs

Once you’ve finished your pool deck resurfacing project, you’ll know how much elbow grease goes into tackling this chore. And you probably won’t want to do it again. There’s good news: You don’t have to bother with resurfacing for a while as long as you properly maintain your pool deck.

But you already knew that was coming, didn’t you? We’re all about the maintenance here!

The truth is, repair and maintenance go hand in hand when it comes to concrete. If you keep up with small cracks as they appear, you’ll save yourself a ton of money and effort later on. The same goes for sealing your deck on an annual basis.

A dirty pool deck offers a perfect environment for weeds, algae, and fungus to grow between the concrete sections. Not only is this unsightly, it can be dangerous. Algae and fungus are slippery, especially when they’re wet.

A clean deck not only reduces potential slippery areas, but also keeps unwanted flora from taking root and breaking into your concrete. Regularly pressure washing your pool deck goes a long way to keeping your surface safe, clean, and more crack-resistant.

Time to Get Out the Big (Water) Gun

If you have a pressure washer in your garage, you’re halfway to a clean pool deck already. If you don’t own one, you can often rent one from your local hardware store (or borrow your neighbor’s, if you have a super nice neighbor).

Even if you can’t invest in one now, a good pressure washer is something to think about in the future. They make cleaning concrete a snap, whether it’s your pool deck or your driveway.

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01/27/2023 10:04 pm GMT

What You Need

• Water source
• Pressure washer
• 15- or 25-degree spray tip
• Muriatic acid

Our Top Pick

Muriatic Acid for Swimming Pools

Used for lowering alkalinity and pH in your pool water. It's also used for cleaning pool filter grids, filter cartridges, and concrete pool surfaces.

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Instructions

1. Clear your deck of any furniture, plants, pool toys, pets, and children.
2. Connect your pressure washer to a water source.
3. Rinse your deck to remove any leaves or debris. If you miss anything, it can leave unsightly marks after washing, so be thorough.
4. Apply the muriatic acid according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If your pool deck is large, work in parts to break up the job.
5. Attach a 15- or 25-degree spray tip to your pressure washer wand, hold the wand at a 90-degree angle, and spray the deck clean.
6. Thoroughly rinse your deck with the pressure washer a second time to ensure all the acid is gone.
7. Repeat as needed. If you run into a particularly tough stain, you may have to scrub it or let it soak longer so the acid can do its job.

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Sealing Your Deck (DO NOT SKIP)

Hey, did you notice how we basically yelled at you to not skip this step? That’s because sealing can save you a ton of work in the long run. Sealing your pool deck helps protect the surface and slows cracks from developing and spreading. Consider doing this on an annual basis to refresh and protect your deck.

What You Need

• Pressure washer
• Muriatic acid
• Deck brush or scrub brush
• Water source
• Paint roller and extension pole
• Concrete sealant

MasonryDefender Penetrating Concrete Sealer - 1 gal.

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Instructions

1. Pressure wash your entire deck using the muriatic acid per the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Rinse your deck thoroughly with the pressure washer.
3. Let the deck dry completely.
4. Using the paint roller, coat a section of the deck as long as your paint roller pole with sealant. It’s best to work in overlapping strokes. If your concrete is more porous, it may require more sealant.
5. Coat the section until you can see a visible layer of sealant.
6. Wait five to ten minutes.
7. Add a second coat of sealant to the section.
8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 with the next section of your deck until the entire thing has been sealed.
9. Allow your entire deck to dry for at least one hour before stepping or placing anything on the sealant.

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Extreme Makeover: Pool Deck Edition

Aside from maintenance and fixes, resurfacing your pool deck offers one more benefit: beautification. Maybe you’re tired of your bland, gray concrete deck and you want something a little more colorful and contemporary.

This is where complete pool deck resurfacing comes in. Unless you’re a mason or a hardcore DIYer, you’ll want a professional to handle it. It’s usually a fairly inexpensive process.

The professional mason will apply a thin layer of concrete around the entire perimeter of your pool either with a trowel or a special sprayer. Any cracks or other minor damage will be repaired at this time.

You can add any color you like to the concrete, whether it’s a warm tan to make your pool look like a desert oasis, or a sparkling aqua reminiscent of the ocean. You can even match the exterior of your home, if you like. The possibilities are endless.

And it’s not just about color. You or your pro can add flair like intricate scrollwork or a brick pattern. You may even be able to have the concrete deck look like a wood deck, so you get the rich and rugged look of wood without the splinters and regular staining.

Don’t feel like you’re stuck with a plain pool deck just because it’s made from immovable concrete. With a little imagination and elbow grease (or the right pro), you can have a gorgeously resurfaced pool deck in a weekend’s time.

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01/28/2023 06:55 am GMT

An Ounce of Maintenance Now is Worth a Pound of Resurfacing Later

Remember, the more quickly you take care of concrete damage, the less you’ll have to worry about any major pool deck resurfacing or repairs. Patch small cracks as they come up, and regularly pressure wash your deck to prevent the buildup of dirt, moss, and grime that aggravates cracking.

And once you’ve got those pesky cracks fixed, consider total pool deck resurfacing to enhance your little slice of paradise, not to mention improve curb appeal if you ever plan to sell. You’ll be glad you did.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Resurface a Concrete Pool Deck appeared first on Swim University®.