Why Type of Pool Filter Do You Have?

Depending on the type of pool filter you have—cartridge, sand, or diatomaceous earth (D.E.)—the proper filter cleaning method will vary. And this guide covers all three. Scroll down to the section that applies to your filter system .

However, if you’re unsure what type of filter system you have, check out our guide on pool filters. It also depends on the brand of filter you have. For example, if you have a Hayward D.E. filter, chances are you’ll be dealing with filter fingers instead of grids which you’ll find in a Pentair filter.

Just make sure you have the proper pool equipment on hand for your type of filter, and then set aside some time to make sure it’s done properly. A dirty filter makes for a dirty pool.

How Often Should You Clean Your Pool Filter?

You should clean your pool filter at least once a month. A good indication that your filter needs to be cleaned is when the pressure gauge reads 10 psi above the normal operating level.

Cloudy water can also be an indicator that the filter needs a good cleaning. And if you’re dealing with cloudy pool water, read our cloudy pool water guide.

But sometimes your filter needs a deep clean. We recommend deep-cleaning your filter at least once a year depending on the type of filter you have.

Before we get into cleaning your pool filter, if you’re in need of a complete video course on taking care of your swimming pool, check out our Pool Care Video Course so you have clean water to swim in all season long.

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How to Clean a Cartridge Pool Filter in 4 Easy Steps

This is an easy type of filter to clean because you can simply pull out the pool filter cartridge, clean it, and replace it. You’ll need to follow a few steps to make sure it’s done right.

Once you have all the supplies, set aside some time to clean the pool filter. The process may even extend overnight, depending on how dirty the filter cartridge is.

1. Turn Off The Pump And Depressurize The Filter Tank

First, turn off the pool pump. If you have a timer, make sure you remove anything that’ll trip the timer and turn the pump back on. You don’t want the pump to come back on when you’re cleaning the filter cartridge.

For your own safety, remove air from the system. Turn the air relief valve (usually located on top of the filter) slowly to remove any excess air from the system.

2. Remove The Cartridge Inside The Filter Tank

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Remove the top of the filter. Then, carefully remove the cartridge and set it aside. Inspect it for damage and wear. If you find any cracks or tears, or it’s past the point where cleaning will be effective, it’s time to get a new filter cartridge to replace it.

3. Clean The Pool Filter Cartridge

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the cartridge, making sure to get between the pleats. If you want a special spray nozzle built specifically for cleaning pool cartridge filters, click here. Otherwise, a standard garden hose nozzle will work fine.

If the cartridge is dirty, use a filter cartridge cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

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If it’s been a while since you’ve cleaned the cartridge filter, it can be covered in algae, calcium build-up, sunscreen, iron, and other contaminants you don’t want in your pool. In this case, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. You can use the same filter cartridge cleaner to do this. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution.

Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a 5-gallon bucket. Place the filters in the bucket and allow them to soak overnight.

Check the O-ring on the filter tank. If it’s in good shape, lightly apply some lubricant to keep it that way. If it’s dry-rotted or appears worn out, replace it.

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Rinse the cartridge thoroughly with water before putting it back in the tank.

4. Replace The Filter Cartridge and Re-Pressurize

Return the cartridge to the filter, and secure it in place. Replace the filter top and close the clamps.

Turn the system back on, and open the air relief valve to release any excess air in the system. Keep the valve open until a steady stream of water sprays from it.

Check the pressure gauge to be sure it’s in the normal filter pressure range. If the pounds per square inch (PSI) is off, you may have put the filter back together incorrectly, or something else may be wrong with the system. Troubleshoot the pool filtration system to identify and correct the problem.

How to Clean a Sand Filter in 3 Simple Steps

You can backwash the sand filter, which you’ll need to do whenever it reaches 10 psi over the normal operating level. It may also be time to clean the filter if you start to notice cloudy pool water.

But at least once a year, you need to chemically clean your sand filter.

1. Backwash The Sand Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear.

If you need more help backwashing your filter, check out our complete guide on backwashing here.

2. Add Filter Cleaning Solution

Turn off the pump, and turn the valve to “Filter.” Remove the pump’s strainer lid and our sand filter cleaner into the strainer basket. Then, replace the pump lid.

Turn the pump on for about 15 seconds, just long enough to transfer the cleaner from the pump to the filter. Turn off the pump, and leave it off for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

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3. Backwash The Filter Again

Backwash the filter for 3 to 5 minutes again to remove the build-up of dirt and debris dislodged by the filter cleaner. Turn the filter system back on.

If you don’t already have a sand filter, you may want to consider investing in one. The time you’ll save in cleaning is time you can spend enjoying your pool.

How to Clean a D.E. Pool Filter in 5 Steps

You can chemically clean a D.E. filter or you can backwash a D.E. filter. Aside from those indicators, it’s a good idea to clean your D.E. filter at least once a month. And if you need more information on D.E. filters, check out our full guide here.

1. Backwash and Drain The D.E. Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” If you have a push/pull valve, make sure it’s in the backwash position.

Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear. If you need more help backwashing your DE filter, click here for our complete guide.

Then, turn the pump off and open the air relief valve. Finally, remove the drain plug, and let the water drain out of the filter tank.

2. Remove DE Filter Manifold

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Open the filter tank and remove the filter manifold, and take out all the grids or fingers.

3. Rinse and/or Soak Filter Grids or Fingers

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the manifold and grids/fingers, making sure to thoroughly flush all debris including the D.E. powder. If the manifold is really dirty, use a D.E. filter cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the manifold is really dirty, you may want to soak it overnight in a muriatic acid solution.

Important: The acid in muriatic acid is exactly that. It’s caustic, and can cause injury if you’re not careful. Take all the precautions necessary to protect yourself, and anyone else who may be around while you’re cleaning your filter. We recommend using this method if your filter is so filthy that regular filter cleaner isn’t enough. And if you use this method, do so sparingly.

Put on the safety goggles and acid-resistant gloves. We also recommend you wear long sleeves, pants, and closed shoes. Dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a large, plastic trash can with a lid can big enough to hold the acid solution and filter manifold. Place the manifold in the trash can, ensuring it’s completely covered with the diluted solution. Allow it to soak overnight.

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4. Put The Filter Back Together

Once the complete filter manifold is clean, rinse out the tank with the garden hose, and place it back into the filter tank.

Replace the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to close it, check the owner’s manual.

5. Add Fresh D.E. Powder

Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.

Make sure the pump is running and pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer. Then, run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids or fingers.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning a Pool Filter

Keeping your filter clean will also help it run longer and more efficiently, saving you money, energy, and time. The longer you keep your filter in good working condition, the longer you can wait to replace it, and the more you can focus on enjoying your pool.

Can you use vinegar to clean a pool filter?

Yes, but only a cartridge filter (not sand or D.E.). Soak your pool cartridge filters in a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar). Allow the filters to soak for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours.

Can I soak my pool filter in bleach?

No. Bleach will damage the fibers of pool filter cartridges. You’re better off using a filter cartridge cleaner or a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar).

Can I use a pressure washer to clean pool filters?

No. A pressure washer is too powerful and will damage your filters. Your best bet is to soak your filters in a filter cleaning solution (specifically designed for pools) for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours (overnight).

How long do pool filters last?

If you take good care of your pool cartridge filters by cleaning them regularly, they can last 2-3 years. If you have a sand filter, the sand inside will last about 3-5 years.

How do you clean algae out of a pool filter cartridge?

If your cartridge filter is covered in algae, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution. Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the season for pool owners.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Clean a Pool Filter (Sand, Cartridge, D.E.) appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to backwash a pool filter. You can watch the walkthrough video or keep reading for our complete guide.

What Is Backwashing a Pool Filter?

Whether you’ve heard the term “backwash a pool filter” or just “backwash a pool,” both are the process of reversing the flow of water in your filter to remove the buildup of contaminants.

As pool water passes through your D.E. filter or sand filter, it leaves behind dirt, oils, and other debris, which are collected in the filter medium—either D.E. powder or sand.

Over time, as water continues to pass in just one direction, the filter medium will become clogged, which will reduce your filter’s effectiveness. When you backwash a pool, you send water backward through the filter, and out the waste or drain port. This forces all the debris caught in the filter to dislodge so you can easily remove it and restore your filtration system back to its normal functioning level.

While backwashing generally works the same way regardless of the type of pool filter, the procedures do vary a bit.

How to Backwash a Sand Filter

When you learn how to backwash a sand filter, the sand never leaves the filter. Water flows backward through the filter system and out your filter’s waste port.

Before you get started, the only extra equipment you’ll need is a backwash hose.

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01/27/2023 06:41 pm GMT

How to Backwash Using a Multiport Valve

• Attach the backwash hose to the waste or backwash port.
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Backwash.
• Turn the filter system back on.
• Let the water run out of the backwash port and through the backwash hose for about a minute, or until the water runs clear
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Rinse.
• Turn the filter system back on.
• Rinse the filter for about 30 seconds.
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Filter.

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running.

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How to Backwash a D.E. Filter

Before you get started, you’ll need a few supplies.

• Backwash hose
• Diatomaceous earth powder
• One-pound D.E. scoop (or empty one-pound coffee can)

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What is Diatomaceous Earth?

It’s a white powder composed of fossilized skeletons of one-celled organisms called diatoms. The powder is added to the filter and attaches itself to the grids inside creating a D.E. “cake.”

This cake, along with the filter grids inside, helps to filter out very fine particles.

How Much D.E. Powder Will You Need?

This will vary depending on the type and size of filter you have. Always refer to your owner’s manual for specific information.

In any case, D.E. powder is measured in pounds, so use a one-pound D.E. scoop to make measuring easy. In a pinch, you can also use an empty one-pound coffee can.

How to Backwash with a Multiport Valve

You’ll want to set aside a little time to do this, but don’t worry. It’s not an arduous task that’s going to take all day.

1. Turn off the filter system.
2. Connect the backwash hose to the filter’s waste port.
3. Turn the multiport valve to Backwash. If you have a push/pull valve, open the backwash gate.
4. Turn the filter system back on, and let it run for about two minutes. This will allow pool water to flow out of the backwash valve or port.
5. Turn the filter system off.
6. Turn the multiport valve to Rinse, turn the system back on, and let it run for about another minute.
7. Turn the filter system off.
8. Turn the multiport valve back to Filter.
9. Add D.E. powder to the filter.
   1. Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add.
   2. Prime the pool pump.
   3. Remove the strainer basket lid.
   4. Fill the basket with water, and allow some water to run through the incoming line.
   5. Turn on the pool pump.
   6. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.
   7. Make sure the pump is running.
   8. Pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer.
   9. Run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids.

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running.

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How to Backwash with a Push/Pull Valve

This procedure differs only slightly from the multiport valve process.

1. Turn off the filter system.
2. Connect the backwash hose to the filter’s backwash port.
3. Open the backwash gate.
4. Turn the filter system back on, and let it run for about three minutes. This will allow pool water to flow out of the backwash port.
5. Turn the filter system off.
6. Close the push/pull valve.
7. Add D.E. powder to the filter.
   1. Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add.
   2. Prime the pool pump.
   3. Remove the strainer basket lid.
   4. Fill the basket with water, and allow some water to run through the incoming line.
   5. Turn on the pool pump.
   6. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.
   7. Make sure the pump is running.
   8. Pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer.
8. Run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids.

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01/27/2023 07:35 pm GMT

When to Backwash a Pool Filter

When you first set up your filter, whether it’s sand or D.E., take note of the pressure gauge reading. That’s your normal operating filter pressure. Over time, as the filter starts to accumulate dirt and debris, pressure will begin to build up because the water can’t flow as freely through it.

When the pressure gauge reads 10 pounds per square inch (psi) above the normal operating level, it’s time to backwash. If it reads more than 10 psi over the normal level, it’s really time to backwash.

While you could backwash before the pressure reaches the 10 psi over normal mark, we recommend waiting. Yes, your filter functions better when it’s not clogged. But before it gets to the fully clogged point, the presence of small dirt and debris actually helps your sand or D.E. filter work a little better.

Those tiny bits of debris help to catch and stop other tiny bits of debris from getting through the filter medium, and making it back into the pool water.

So, a clean filter is good. A slightly dirty filter is better. A clogged filter is bad, and needs a backwashing.

How to Dispose of Filter Backwash Water

Every time you backwash your pool filter, you could be pulling hundreds of gallons of water from your pool. Where is all that water going to go? Into your yard? The street? The creek behind your house?

None of those are good options, and in fact, may even be illegal, depending on where you live. The water that comes out of your pool is chemically treated, and can damage plant life, groundwater, and aquatic life.

Disposing of backwash water properly is essential, not just to avoid potential fines, but to keep your community and the environment safe from illness and damage.

Storm Drains

Some cities do allow pool water to be released into storm drains. But they may also require that you apply for a permit first.

You may also need to reduce or eliminate chemicals or salt levels in the water before you’re allowed to dispose of it in your community’s sewer system. Check with your local water authority.

Plumbing Cleanouts

You may be able to dispose of backwash water by directing it into one or more of your home’s plumbing cleanouts. Again, it’s best to check with your local water/sewer authority to ensure this is allowed, find out whether you need to treat the water in any way before disposing, and to obtain any necessary permits.

It’s unlikely any municipality will allow you to release pool water into a septic system. You wouldn’t want to do that anyway. Septic systems rely on the existence of active enzymes to dispose of waste. Pouring chemically treated water into the tank—especially water with chlorine in it—would likely kill those enzymes, leaving you with quite a mess.

Dry Wells

These can be a life (or property) saver if you live in an area that sees a high level of rainfall, or experiences tropical storms. They can help prevent flooding and erosion. While a dry well could work for disposing of pool water, that’s not usually its purpose.

Regardless of how many levels of gravel, sand, or other media the water may pass through, it will still end up in the ground, which means it can be a problem if you live in an area that doesn’t allow the disposal of pool water into the ground.

Aside from the issue of permission, a dry well must be constructed by a professional, and it’s a project that can easily cost thousands of dollars.

You can definitely find an easier, safer, and less expensive way to dispose of your filter backwash water. Your local water authority can help you.

Release the Kraken!

Or maybe just some dirty pool water. But keeping a kraken in your pool is all the more reason to keep the water clean. Anyway, when the time comes to backwash your pool, you’ll be ready with the right equipment and procedures.

Take comfort in knowing you’ll be able to help your filter keep your pool clean, which will also help your filter live a longer life, which can save you money. Then you’ll be able to afford that cute little kraken you’ve been wanting to adopt.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Backwash a Pool Filter The Right Way appeared first on Swim University®.

Even if you’re closely watching those numbers rise and fall, what exactly do they mean? How do you know when there’s a problem, and how do you fix it? It’s all a lot easier than it may seem.

What Is a Pool Filter Pressure Gauge?

Your pool filter operates under pressure, which is measured in pounds per square inch (psi). When water is flowing through it normally, the filter’s pressure is normal.

But when something interferes with water flow—either increasing or decreasing it—the pressure inside the filter will change. The only way to monitor the pressure inside the filter is with a pool filter pressure gauge.

It’s attached to the top of your filter, and looks exactly the way you’d expect it to look. It’s a small dial with numbers around the perimeter, and an indicator “hand” that moves up or down the scale to indicate whether the pressure level is too low, too high, or just right.

But how do you know what those levels are?

What Is Normal Pool Filter Pressure?

The most important thing to know is that there’s not one magic number that’s normal for all pool filters. An average range can be anywhere from 10 psi to 25 psi.

What’s “normal” for a filter will depend on a few factors such as the filter’s size, the size and strength of your pump, and how clean—or dirty—the filter is at any given time.

But you can set a baseline number to consider normal for your filter. You’ll do this when you first install the filter, the media is clean, and all your other equipment—especially the pump—is running the way it should.

Once you’ve installed the filter and turned everything on, make a note of what the pool filter pressure gauge indicates. That will be the “normal” pressure level you strive to maintain.

Take a second baseline reading after the first time you clean or change the filter media. That number and the initial number will give you a range to shoot for.

Check the pool filter pressure gauge at least once a week as part of your regular pool maintenance routine. Be sure to record the number so you can easily see if and when pressure starts to rise or drop. This will let you know something’s wrong so you can troubleshoot.

Pool Filter Pressure Too High: Troubleshooting And Fixes

When your pool filter pressure gauge starts to read higher than the normal range you established, it’s not necessarily a bad thing right off the bat. In fact, it can kind of be good.

It seems counterintuitive, but your filter is actually a little more effective when it’s dirty. Not filthy and completely clogged with dirt and debris, of course. But when it’s a little dirty, those particles of dirt, twigs, hair, and whatever else made its way into your pool can help grab even more dirty particles as they pass through the filter media.

So don’t feel you have to troubleshoot when you see the pool filter pressure gauge indicating a slight rise above normal.

Now, when the pressure in the filter gets to be 10 psi higher than your normal recorded pressure, it’s time to take action. Usually, this means you just have to clean your pool filter.

If cleaning the filter doesn’t bring the pressure level down, or the filter media is just beyond the point where cleaning will make a difference, it may be time to replace the media altogether.

Use the Air Relief Valve

The pool filter pressure gauge has a little buddy to help keep pressure levels steady and where they should be—an air relief valve.

The gauge may indicate high pressure due to air in the circulation system. This could happen if your pool’s water level is too low. It should be at about the midpoint of the skimmer.

Or maybe you turned the pool off while you were on vacation, or even just to clean it. When you start things back up, you may discover air in the system.

When water begins to flow through the system, it competes with air for space, which forces the air through the system. Left too long, it can damage your equipment, especially the pump which must contain water to function properly.

When you use the air relief valve to release the air from the system, the water can once again fill the plumbing the way it’s supposed to, your equipment will be safe, and the pool filter pressure gauge should go back down.

Pool Filter Pressure Too Low: Troubleshooting And Fixes

If the pool filter pressure gauge reads at least 5 psi lower than normal, it means water isn’t reaching the filter quickly enough, and you have a couple of possible problems to take care of.

The most common cause is a blockage located somewhere before the filter. Check the skimmers, pump basket, pump impeller, and drain covers for any debris that could be blocking circulation.

The less common and more serious cause for a low pool filter pressure gauge reading is a pool leak somewhere in the system, most likely the pool pump. Examine the pump carefully for any indications of a leak. If the pump is the problem, you have three options:

• Repair it yourself.
• Hire a pro to repair it.
• Replace the pump (if it’s beyond repair).

If nothing you try to either raise or lower the filter pressure is working, you have another option available to you.

Check the Pool Filter Pressure Gauge

Is the pool filter clean? No blockages anywhere? Everything running the way it should, but the pressure gauge still says something’s wrong? It might be a problem with the gauge itself.

Just like any other piece of equipment, the pool filter pressure gauge won’t last forever. It may be damaged somehow, or it could just wear out over time.

The good thing is, it’s not an expensive device. You can expect to spend less than $20 to replace the gauge.

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Under Pressure

While a pool filter pressure gauge is a small part of a large system, it plays a vital role to the overall health of your pool. Remember to check it weekly, and when you see the numbers moving too far in either direction, address it immediately. Otherwise, you could end up with damaged equipment and expensive repairs or replacement down the road.

Happy Swimming!

The post Understanding Your Pool Filter Pressure Gauge appeared first on Swim University®.

Not at all! You’ve made an excellent choice because not only are sand and D.E. filters great at keeping your pool clean, they give you a lot of options to do several other things as well.

What Does a Multiport Valve Do?

Your pool filter can do so much more than just clean the pool water. Located on the top or side of the filter, the multiport valve’s numerous settings direct the pool water where you need it to go, allowing you to use the filter for multiple purposes.

Multiport Valve Settings

Need to clean the filter? Is it time to close your pool for the winter? The filter’s multiport valve makes all these filter-related tasks super simple.

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running.

Filter

Well, obviously. This is the filter’s primary function is to filter the pool water to help keep it clean. It’ll remove small bits of debris, and depending on the type of filter you have, even some bacteria and other tiny contaminants. The multiport valve will be on this setting more often than any other.

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01/27/2023 11:44 pm GMT

Backwash

Rather than removing the filtration media, the best way to clean a sand or D.E. filter is to backwash it. This setting will run pool water from the pump, through the filter, and out through the waste port, thereby cleaning the filtration media, whether it’s pool filter sand or diatomaceous earth.

To get the media really clean, you can also use special filter cleaner.

Note: You’ll know it’s time to backwash your pool filter when the pressure rises 10 pounds over the normal pressure rate.

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Rinse

You’ve just backwashed your filter, loosening up dirt and debris. What do you need to do before you let water run through the filter and back into your pool? Rinse it, of course! Uh, the filter, not the water.

It would defeat the purpose of cleaning your filter if you just let a bunch of dirt flow back into the pool. Be sure to use the Rinse after every backwash.

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01/27/2023 07:35 pm GMT

Waste

You can use your filter to make things easier on yourself when you vacuum your pool. It’ll help pull leaves, dirt, and other debris out of your water. But you don’t want the stuff you’re vacuuming up to clog the filter. You also don’t want dirty water flowing back into your pool while you’re vacuuming.

The Waste setting allows water to enter the filter, but bypass the filter media, and be sent completely out of the filtration system.

Important: Make sure you’re disposing of expelled pool water correctly so you’re not damaging your yard or the environment.

Note: When you use this multiport valve setting, your pool’s water level will drop. Before you begin vacuuming, insert a hose into the pool to replace the water you’re removing. Remember this means you’ll have to balance the water afterward.

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Recirculate

There may be times when you need to circulate your pool water without filtering it. One example of this is when you use a pool clarifier called flocculant.

If your pool is cloudy, flocculant will corral the particles cloudying the water, allowing you to vacuum them up, thereby clearing the water. You need the filtration system to run in order to circulate the flocculant, but you also need it to remain in the water to do its job, so you don’t want to filter it out.

The Recirculate setting allows water to move through the filter without going through the filter media.

Note: You can also use the Waste setting for this if you’d rather completely remove the dirty water rather than recirculate it back into the pool. That’s probably a better option to ensure all the particles you’re trying to remove are actually removed.

Closed

As the name suggests, this setting closes the valve so no water can enter it. You may use this setting if you’re blowing out the lines when you open your pool.

The truth is, though, you’ll hardly ever need to use this setting. Other settings (usually just Filter) work better for this function.

Important: Never turn on the pool pump while the multiport valve is on the Closed setting. You could blow out the filter, the pump, or both.

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Winter

When you’re putting your pool to bed for the winter, you’ll want to turn your filter’s multiport valve to the Winter or Winterize setting. It’s usually located between the Waste and Closed settings, without a groove to lock the handle in place.

Because the handle doesn’t settle down into a groove the way it does with the other settings, the valve diverter is pushed up so it’s suspended about ¼ inch above the ports inside the valve. This is important because that space allows any water left inside the valve to expand when it freezes, but not crack the valve body or damage the filter.

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It’s Nice to Have Options

Using a sand or D.E. filter with a multiport valve gives you several ways to clean and maintain your pool, with just a little effort on your part. Don’t let all those settings intimidate you.

Master each one, and in no time, you’ll be filtering your pool like a pro, and enjoying it the way you should.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Use a Multiport Valve on a Pool Filter appeared first on Swim University®.

How do you change pool filter sand, anyway? Start by deciding which type of sand you’ll use—you’ve got a few options. Learn how to tell when it’s time for a change, so you won’t have to constantly battle dirty, cloudy water. When you’re ready to tackle it, change your sand and get back to swimming in no time.

What is Pool Filter Sand?

Dead bugs. Bacteria. Algae. Your pool filter traps these things so they can’t hang around making the water cloudy or getting swimmers sick. The filter media is the stuff that grabs those contaminants. In this case, sand is that media.

Sand is such excellent filtration media, it’s used in other water safety applications such as wastewater treatment, septic systems, and even for drinking water.

To the untrained eye, most sand looks pretty much the same, so you might think all sand is created equal, but that’s not the case. Don’t be tempted by that bag of cheap play sand in your garage. It will destroy your filtration system. Always make sure to use one of three types of sand in your pool filter.

Silica Sand

The most commonly used pool filter sand is #20 silica sand. It comes from ground quartz, which creates sharp silica grains with jagged edges excellent for trapping particulates from passing water.

Silica sand is mined, not manufactured.

Glass Sand

If you’re looking for filter media with low environmental impact, glass sand is an effective alternative to silica. It’s made from 100% recycled glass and is smooth to the touch, but still captures particles as small as two microns—that’s one millionth of a meter.

The glass grains are all different sizes, so it minimizes channeling, which occurs when pool water cuts a path straight through the sand and slips through the filter virtually unfiltered. Glass sand also has a negative charge, so it excels at capturing iron and manganese particles. This is especially helpful if your pool is filled from a hard water source.

Zeolite Sand

Created from volcanic rock minerals called zeolites, this silica alternative boasts 100 times greater surface area than standard filter sand because of its sponge-like honeycomb shape.

Zeolite chemically traps chloramines—the chlorine byproducts that sting swimmers’ eyes—through a process called molecular sieving. That’s a fancy way of saying chloramines become trapped inside the zeolite sand particles indefinitely.

If you’re finding you need to shock your pool frequently, zeolite sand could help get chloramines under control without having to use as many pool chemical additives.

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Why Change Your Pool Filter Sand?

The pool pump pulls dirty water to the filter, where it passes through the sand, where contaminants get trapped. The clean water flows back into the pool. How exactly does the sand hold onto the icky stuff, while allowing the cleaned water to pass through?

Though it’s much too small to see with the naked eye, all three types of sand have a rough surface where contaminants get caught as the water flows past.

Over time, the rushing water wears away the prickly surface of the sand, leaving it smooth and round. When you look at sand from beaches with intense waves under a microscope, it’s noticeably smoother than sand from calmer beaches. The same principle applies to pool filter sand, which has water flushed through it for several hours a day.

This smoothing is the result of a process called weathering. Ironically the same process that creates sand also wears it down into dust, useless for filtering anything.

When pool filter sand is weathered smooth, it doesn’t have any jagged edges to grab and hold contaminants. Your pool may start to look cloudy or require more frequent shock treatment as the filter media nears the end of its lifespan.

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When to Change the Sand in Your Filter

Like fine wine, pool filter sand gets better with age, but then it peaks and eventually declines. Its lifespan is rather short—just three to five years. Over the course of a few years, contaminants build up in the sand.

For the first couple of years, this actually enhances the filtering ability of the sand because in addition the sand’s own rough edges, the contaminants building up also act as filtration for the water that passes through the filter.

But eventually, all that extra gunk builds up so much that it makes the filter prone to clogs. At the same time, weathering renders the sand incapable of collecting more contaminants. Your filter’s efficiency drops, and your pools water quality suffers.

Two other things may happen when your sand is past its peak. Pressure can build up inside your filter as it becomes more difficult for the water to pass through gunked-up sand. Then the water may seek a path of least resistance and cut a channel through the sand, which may reduce some of the pressure, but will virtually eliminate filtering.

Can’t I just Clean or Backwash my Sand Filter?

You’ll need to backwash your sand filter whenever the pressure gauge climbs to 10 pounds per square inch (psi) higher than the normal running pressure. You can also backwash if the water is a bit cloudy, but the chemistry is okay.

Backwashing rinses the sand, flushing debris to waste. It can be done as part of your routine pool maintenance, and you may need to top off the pool afterward.

If you want to give your sand a little extra cleaning, use sand filter cleaner annually. Think of this stuff as a degreaser for the sand. It helps wash out oils and other contaminants backwashing can’t quite get rid of.

Both backwashing and filter cleaner help with climbing pressure and water clarity, but eventually the sand will wear down and need to be replaced. If your sand is in the three- to five-year window, and pressure and clarity are ongoing problems, it’s probably time for new sand.

The Changing of the Sand

Once you’ve determined your filter is the reason for your cloudy water, get your gear together for sand changing. You’ll be amazed how easy this is.

You’ll Need:

• Hacksaw (if pipe needs to be cut)
• Shop-Vac
• Screwdriver
• Garden hose
• Flashlight
• pool filter sand or filter sand substitute (check your filter’s manual for the amount)
• Duct tape or Rubber plug
• Utility knife
• Mask
• Backwash hose
• Diatomaceous earth (D.E.) powder (optional)

1.Turn Off the Pump and Drain the Filter

Turn off the filter and pump. Be sure the timer isn’t set to turn on soon, so the pump won’t kick on while everything is disconnected. If the pumps kicks on while dry, it may burn out.

Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the filter tank, and let all the water drain out.

Tip: Draining the filter tank may take a while, so you could do this step in the morning, then come back in the cooler evening air to finish the rest.

2. Remove the Multiport Valve

Remove the hoses or pipes that are connected to the multiport valve. If your valve is hard plumbed with PVC pipe, you’ll have to cut the pipe. If you’re uncomfortable doing this, consider hiring a pro.

After the pipes have been cut, you (or a pro) can install union fittings so next time around, you’ll only have to unscrew a pipe fitting—no hacksaw required.

Use your screwdriver to remove the clamp or collar securing the valve to the tank.

Gently twist then pull up on the multiport valve to remove it.

Tip: The pipe attached to the valve has laterals (like tree roots) branching out into the sand. The combination of weight from sand and twisting can break the laterals, so take it easy.

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3. Cover the Standpipe

Inside the tank is an open pipe where the valve was just removed. Cover it with duct tape to prevent sand from getting inside. If it does, that sand will get flushed right into your pool when you start up the pump again.

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4. Remove the Sand

Use the Shop-Vac to suck out all the old sand. If you don’t have a Shop-Vac (or you’re a big fan of back pain), you can scoop the old sand out by hand with a plastic cup. This will take forever and ever.

Make friends with someone who has a Shop-Vac you can borrow, or just invest in one. It will take less time, and they come in handy for a lot of other jobs.

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5. Rinse Out the Tank and Laterals

With most of the sand gone, you’ll be able to see the arms branching out of the standpipe. Use your garden hose to rinse any remaining sand out of the drain hole.

Use the flashlight to carefully inspect the standpipe and laterals for damage. Any cracks could let sand into your pool, so make necessary repairs before adding fresh sand.

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6. Fill the Tank Halfway with Water

Replace the drain plug in the tank. Stick the hose down into the tank and start filling. Center the standpipe and laterals, and hold them in place while the tank fills about halfway.

Adding some water prior to the replacement sand creates a cushion to protect the laterals from the weight of falling sand.

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7. Add the New Sand

Put your mask on to avoid breathing in dust. Check the duct tape on the standpipe and add more if necessary.

Holding the bag with a corner extending over the opening of the tank, slice it open with the utility knife. Relax, enjoy the Zen moment watching the sand drain into the tank. Just don’t relax too much—you’re holding a 50 lb. bag of sand.

Add one bag of sand at a time, letting it slowly pour into the tank so it won’t spill everywhere.

Important: Only use pool filter sand or filter sand substitute. Anything else can ruin your filter.

Tip: You can further increase the filtering efficiency of sand by adding a few cups of D.E. powder along with the fresh sand.

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01/27/2023 06:37 pm GMT

8. Fill the Tank and Reassemble the Connections

When all the sand is in the tank, fill it to the top with water. Replace the multiport valve, collar, and pipes or hoses. Make sure all the fittings are snug and secure.

9. Backwash and Rinse the Filter

Attach the backwash hose and turn the multiport valve to backwash. Prime the pump, and turn it on. Backwash the filter for at least two minutes or until the filter’s sight glass is running clear. This helps get out all of the sand dust and extra debris from the new sand.

Shut the pump off, set the multiport valve to rinse, and turn the pump back on. Rinse the filter for one minute.

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01/27/2023 06:41 pm GMT

10. Run the Filter

Shut the pump off, turn the valve to filter, and turn the pump back on. Now check the pressure gauge. This is your filter’s normal running pressure. Remember it or write it down somewhere handy.

Check the gauge when you do your normal pool maintenance. When the pressure is 10 psi above normal, backwash the filter. Using the pressure gauge as a backwash indicator prevents you from over-backwashing and removing the dirt and debris your sand filter needs to function properly.

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Sand-sational Job!

Choosing which type of pool filter sand to use is the most complicated part of this process, and you can’t really make a wrong choice. It’s simply a matter of choosing the one that will work best for your pool, depending on factors such as whether you have hard water, or chloramines are an issue.

Once the new sand is in and the pump is up and running, all you need to do keep an eye on things so your filter will run at optimal efficiency until the next time you have to change the sand. With just that little bit of care, you can relax and swim with peace of mind for about another five years.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Change Pool Filter Sand appeared first on Swim University®.