Before you make the leap to a pool mineral sanitizer, though, make sure you understand how it works, and what some of the benefits—and drawbacks—are so you know what you’re getting into.

What is a Pool Mineral System?

Simply put, it’s an alternative sanitizing method for your pool. Just as you can use chlorine, bromine, or a few other options, certain minerals also work to clean pool water. Namely, silver and copper.

Wait a minute, are they minerals or metals? The answer is yes.

Silver has antibacterial properties and has been used to clean water since the days of the Roman empire. Copper is a known algaecide, which is why it’s used in so many of the algaecides available for pools and hot tubs, and why some pool manufacturers add it to their pool mineral systems.

Pool minerals use silver and sometimes copper to prevent bacteria and algae from making themselves at home in your pool. Some mineral products also include zinc, which is a known antibacterial and is even sometimes used as an antibiotic.

Finally, pool mineral sanitizers may also contain limestone, which absorbs chlorine acid, and helps maintain a stable and more neutral pH level in the water.

Does all this mean pool mineral systems are better than chlorine or bromine? Just like anything, they have their pros and cons.

And before we dive in, check out our comprehensive pool care video course that’ll help you learn more about pool mineral systems and other important pool chemistry tips. You get access to our exclusive library of videos on how to clean your filter, maintain your water balance, and more!

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What Are The Benefits of Pool Mineral Sanitizers?

You have a few really good reasons to switch to a pool mineral system.

The Water Will Be Softer

If you’ve spent any time in a chlorine pool, you know you come out of it feeling like a dried prune. Your skin is dry and possibly itchy, and your hair feels like straw. Not to mention, that nice bathing suit you bought may fade, bleached out by the chlorine.

Water sanitized with minerals is softer and gentler on your skin, hair, and swimwear. You’ll notice it when you’re swimming because the water has a silky feel. And you’ll notice it afterward when you don’t have to empty a bottle of lotion to restore your skin’s moisture.

It Will Reduce Wear on Pool Equipment

If chlorine is harsh on your body, what do you think it’s doing to your pool equipment? Sure, the pump, filter, and every other piece are made to withstand exposure to chlorinated water day in and day out. But still, over time, that chemical wears on plastic and moving parts.

Because minerals make the water softer, the equipment that stays wet all the time isn’t subjected to that abuse. It may even work better and last longer, which can save you money.

Your Pool Will Need Less Chlorine

When you switch to a pool mineral sanitizer, you can use a lot less than you would if chlorine or bromine were the only sanitizer in the pool. This also means you’ll avoid having to deal with chloramines and their telltale “pool smell.”

Pool Mineral Sanitizer Drawbacks

You’d be hard-pressed to find any reason to completely avoid a pool mineral system. Just be aware of a few considerations.

You Still Need Chlorine or Bromine

A pool mineral sanitizer alone isn’t enough to keep your water fully sanitized. You’ll need to supplement with chlorine or bromine to kill bacteria and viruses, and prevent algae blooms.

You May Spend More Money

Pool mineral systems often cost less than chlorine or bromine. But because minerals alone can’t fully sanitize pool water, you’ll have to buy two chemicals to do it.

True, you’ll be using a lot less chlorine, so it’ll probably last longer, so you may actually spend less than if you used chlorine alone. Of course, this also depends on factors like your pool’s volume, bather load, and how well you manage your pool’s chemistry.

Oxidation Stains

You know how when a penny oxidizes, it turns that sickly green color? Well, when copper oxidizes in pool water, it can leave yucky green stains on your pool’s interior.

Plus, if your water source has a high copper content, the possibility of stains is even higher. A lot of pool mineral sanitizers tout themselves as being stain-free, but just to be on the safe side, use a hose filter when filling your pool to prevent at least some of those metals from making it into your pool.

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If you do start to notice stains, once you’ve cleaned them, you can also use a metal sequestrant to prevent it from happening again.

Once you’ve weighed the pros and cons, if you decide a pool mineral sanitizer is for you, it’s easy to make the switch.

Pool Mineral System Types

Another advantage of pool minerals? There’s no measuring, and no gloves needed to handle them. You’ll find three forms available.

Pool RX: In-Skimmer Pool Mineral System

One of the easier options, all you have to do is lower the dispenser right into the skimmer basket. Minerals are released into the water as it flows into the skimmer and over the dispenser.

Some in-skimmer devices last about six months and can sanitize pools that hold up to 30,000 gallons.

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Pool RX: Reduce Chlorine Usage by 50%

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01/27/2023 04:21 pm GMT

Floating Dispensers

Also a super-easy option is a little dispenser that just floats around your pool, leaving a magical trail of minerals behind it. OK, maybe not magical. But cleaner, for sure. Simply connect a cartridge that holds both minerals and chlorine, and turn it loose. When the chlorine is empty, the dispenser will turn on its side, letting you know it’s time to replace the cartridge.

The second-easiest option, all you have to do is connect a mineral cartridge and either a chlorine or bromine cartridge to a floating dispenser, and then let it float in your spa. The minerals are released at a constant rate to keep the water clean.

One cool benefit—you’ll know it’s time to replace one or both of the cartridges when the dispenser turns on its side. Frog makes one specifically for soft-sided pools in addition to their regular one, so if you have an above ground or Intex pool, you can still get in on the mineral sanitizing action.

Flippin Frog Pool Mineral System - 2K to 5K gal.

$39.95

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01/27/2023 10:16 pm GMT

Inline System

This one’s a little more involved because it connects to your pool’s plumbing system, but if you have a little know-how, you may even be able to install it yourself. The great thing about it is that it can easily be installed into existing plumbing systems. This is important, too, because the dispenser needs to remain accessible so you can change the cartridge when necessary,

It works on the same principle as the other two varieties, releasing minerals and chlorine into the water as it passes through the cartridge. No measuring, no spills.

Nature2 Express Inground Pool Mineral Sanitizer

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Whatever type you choose, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

How to Use a Pool Mineral System

This isn’t like converting from chlorine to a salt water pool. Remember, you’ll still need to use some chlorine or bromine with the mineral system. That actually makes the switch to a pool mineral system easier. Just allow the chlorine level to drop to at least 0.5 parts per million (ppm) before adding minerals. For bromine, let it drop to at least 1 ppm.

Test Water Hardness

If you’re starting with an empty pool (which is more likely if you have an above ground or Intex pool), test the hardness of your water source. If it’s above 225 ppm (275 for a concrete or plaster pool), use a hose filter when filling the pool.

This is always a good idea when filling or adding water to your pool. The filter will also remove and reduce other minerals, such as copper.

Test for Metals

Before using a pool mineral sanitizer, you also need to know what kind of metals your water source contains, and how much. The types of strips or kits that test for metals usually measure safe levels for drinking water.

To get the levels you need, take a sample of pool water to your local pool store for testing. If the metal—especially copper—levels are high, add a metal sequestrant to the water after you fill the pool.

Balance the Water

Start by testing the water to get baseline levels with test strips or a liquid test kit. Follow the same order you go in any other time you test and balance your pool: alkalinity, pH, calcium hardness. They should be in the following ranges:

• Total Alkalinity: 100 ppm to 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal
• pH: 7.4 to 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal
• Calcium Hardness: If you have a concrete or plaster pool, shoot for 200 ppm to 275 ppm. For any other type of pool, aim for a range of 175 ppm to 225 ppm.

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Add the Minerals

Once you get the water balanced, you can add the pool mineral sanitizer to the skimmer, the floating dispenser, or the in-line system.

Regardless of which type of pool mineral system you’ve decided to use, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you change the cartridge when necessary.

Add the Supplemental Sanitizer

Whether you’ve decided to use chlorine or bromine, measure and add a little at a time—testing in between—until it reaches the correct level:

• Chlorine: 0.5 ppm
• Bromine: 1 ppm

How to Shock a Mineral Pool

You’re already using pool shock at least once a week, right? That won’t change when you start using a mineral sanitizer, or any other kind of sanitizer, for that matter. If your pool is being used often and by a lot of swimmers, or you notice a problem like cloudy water, you’ll want to shock it more often. What may change is the type of shock you use.

When you first add minerals to your pool, use chlorine shock to kill any bacteria and clear up the water. When you start shocking on a regular basis, non-chlorine shock may be the better option.

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Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Remember, you want the chlorine level to remain low to let the minerals do their job. Chlorine shock can possibly raise the level above 0.5 ppm. It will eventually dissipate, sure, but why wait for that when you can just use non-chlorine shock?

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You can still use chlorine shock on occasion. In fact, you really should to keep bacteria, viruses, and algae at bay. Just remember to always test the water after shocking, and balance as needed.

Ready to Make the Switch to Pool Minerals?

Still not convinced? You could always try a pool mineral system to see how you like it before committing to it permanently. An in-skimmer or floating device would be best for a trial run. Don’t make any changes to your plumbing if you’re not sure you’re going to keep it that way.

Then, if you decide a pool mineral sanitizer isn’t your cup of tea, you can always go back to chlorine. But we’re betting once you get a feel of that silky soft water, you’ll wonder what took you so long to switch to minerals in the first place.

Happy Swimming!

The post The Complete Guide to Pool Mineral Systems appeared first on Swim University®.

Whether you’re new to pool ownership or you just haven’t explored any other options, knowing about pool chlorine alternatives can allow you to make better decisions about the chemicals you use in your pool.

Why Would You Want a Chlorine Free Pool?

The first thing to know is that chlorine is a highly effective sanitizer. If you keep your pool water balanced, and the chlorine level remains steady within the recommended range of 1 part per million (ppm) to 3 ppm, you can swim without worry of contaminants or organisms like algae making themselves at home in your pool.

But like anything, it has its downsides too. Along with some valid reasons for wanting to consider pool chlorine alternatives, you may have heard a couple of myths. We’re going to dispel those right now.

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You’re Allergic to Chlorine

False. You can’t be allergic to chlorine. But you can be sensitive to it.

Chlorine sensitivity presents as a irritant dermatitis, which can be sort of like a chemical burn. And if you already have dermatitis, chlorine can aggravate it and worsen the symptoms.

If you suffer from asthma or another type of respiratory condition, chlorine may also irritate your lungs and exacerbate the condition.

While you may not actually be allergic to it, chlorine can still be a highly irritating chemical you need to avoid.

You Don’t Like That Chlorine Smell

False. A properly chlorinated pool doesn’t have a scent. If the water is clean, it shouldn’t smell like anything. That scent you’ve always associated with chlorine is actually chloramines.

When ammonia contained in bodily waste such as sweat and urine is introduced into pool water, the chlorine attacks it as a contaminant. The two chemicals combine, and the resulting chemical reaction creates chloramines.

These chemical compounds build up in the water and in the air above the water, which is what you smell. This also means the amount of chlorine in the water has been reduced as it fought the contaminants.

Chloramines irritate eyes, skin, and the respiratory tract. This is why every bottle of bleach and ammonia tells you not to mix the two. In high concentrations, chloramines can be deadly.

They’re also the reason your eyes may be red if you’ve opened them underwater. That wasn’t due to chlorine—it was chloramines.

Switching to a chlorine free pool means you won’t have to worry about these harmful chemicals.

Chlorine May Produce Harmful Gas

True. Though not on its own. Read the above section about chloramines if you haven’t already.

Chlorine is Vulnerable to Sunlight

True. This is a big downside to an outdoor pool. Ultraviolet light causes chlorine to decompose, which makes it less able to sanitize the water.

This is why you may prefer to use stabilized chlorine, or add a stabilizer such as cyanuric acid to prevent the chlorine from degrading too quickly.

Having to use two chemicals to sanitize the water increases your pool maintenance expenses.

If any or all of these reasons apply to you, you may want to consider making the switch to a chlorine free pool.

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Chlorine is Harsh on Your Skin and Hair

True. Even at the appropriate level in pool water, chlorine can dry your skin and make your hair brittle. And if there’s copper in the water, chlorine can oxidize it, which is why blond hair turns green in the pool.

Chlorine can also bleach your swimwear, and weaken the fibers. This is why you must shower and thoroughly rinse your swimwear after swimming.

Chlorine Dissipates Quickly

True. It’s effective, but as it attacks and eradicates contaminants, it’s used up, which means you need to add more, more often. That can add up to higher expense as well.

Pool Chlorine Alternatives

Before you make the switch to a non chlorine pool, it’s crucial to know what other options are available to you, how they work, and how they compare to chlorine.

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Bromine

This is probably the most common pool chlorine alternative. Bromine eradicates contaminants by ionizing them, or forcing them apart at the molecular level. Much of it remains active even after this process, so it lasts a little longer than chlorine does.

However, it also works more slowly than chlorine does, taking longer to destroy contaminants. Because of this, a common practice is to use both chlorine and bromine to sanitize a pool. It’s effective, but may cost more and be more work than using just one sanitizer.

Also, bromines also produce bromamines, which aren’t as noxious or dangerous as chloramines, but they still do reduce how effective the bromine is at sanitizing the pool water.

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PHMB

If you want to completely eliminate your dependence on chlorine, take a look at preservative-free polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB. This sanitizer is commonly sold under brand names such as Baquacil.

It completely replaces chlorine, but it doesn’t oxidize the way chlorine does. This means it won’t kill bacteria, algae, and other contaminants that are vulnerable only to oxidation. You must use an oxidizer with PHMB, and possibly a separate algaecide as well. Again, it’s an effective alternative, but can be more expensive than chlorine.

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Ozonator

This device generates and inserts ozone gas into your pool water. Ozone can kill bacteria and other contaminants without any chemical assistance.

Two types of ozonators exist:

Ultraviolet Light: These ozonators use ultraviolet light to split oxygen molecules into free oxygen atoms. Those atoms then combine with ambient oxygen and create ozone, which sanitizes the water.

Corona Discharge: In these devices, a conductor is ionized by electricity, which converts the oxygen in the chamber into ozone, which sanitizes the water.

While both of these systems are effective, they have a large drawback: They function best in dry climates. If you live in a humid area, an ozonator’s performance will be reduced, meaning you may have to fall back on a little chlorine every now and then.

Also be aware that if you use an ozonator, you’ll need special test strips to test the water for ozone.

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Mineral Sanitizers

If you’d like your pool to be a little more eco-friendly, consider a pool mineral system.

Natural mineral sanitizers release silver and copper ions into the pool, which kill bacteria and clean the water. Because these metals are naturally present elements, they’re much more environmentally friendly than chlorine and other chemicals.

However, minerals aren’t enough to completely sanitize your entire pool. You must supplement the system with chlorine to get the oxidation benefits.

Nature2 Express Inground Pool Mineral Sanitizer

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Switching to a Chlorine Free Pool

This isn’t an overnight process. If you’ve been using chlorine as your sanitizer, you’ll need to allow it to completely dissipate from your pool before you can introduce any other chemical or sanitizing system.

While you’re allowing the chlorine to dissipate, you don’t want to swim either. And once you start using the new sanitizer, you’ll need to give it time to disperse and clean the water before you can swim again.

The best time to make the switch to any of these pool chlorine alternatives is in the spring when you open your pool. The chlorine will naturally have dissipated over the winter, and you can start fresh with a new sanitization system.

There’s a New Sanitizer in Town

No matter which alternative you choose for your chlorine free pool, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. If you’ve never used the new sanitizer before, understand that there’ll be a learning curve.

You want to make sure you do everything right so to make sure your non chlorine pool is sanitized and safe for summer swimming.

Happy Chlorine Free Swimming!

The post How to Get a Chlorine Free Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

How? Science! It’s all about cations and anions, protons and electrons. Are you wishing you’d paid more attention in science class? Don’t worry. You don’t need to be a professor to get clean pool water with an ionizer.

What is a Pool Ionizer?

To answer that question, first we need to answer another question: What is an ion? Get ready for some science!

An ion is an electrically charged atom. But an ion can also be a group of electrically charged atoms. Ions are found everywhere, in everything, including your pool, because obviously, everything is made up of atoms.

Ancient Romans discovered that silver has bactericidal (bacteria killing) properties, and it’s well known that copper can inhibit algae growth. In fact, the active ingredient in many algaecides (algae killers) and algaestats (algae preventers) is copper. More specifically, copper and silver ions are what perform these tasks.

Which is where the pool ionizer comes in. It’s a device that uses electricity to produce these metal ions to clean and sanitize pool water. Of course, the process is slightly more complicated.

Important: If there’s already algae in your pool, an ionizer isn’t going to get rid of it. You need to get rid of the pool algae first, then install the ionizer to help keep it from coming back.

How Does a Pool Ionizer Work?

Water moves out of the pool into the suction line, and then through the pump, filter, and heater, if you have one. Next stop is the ionizer to sanitize the water before it reenters the pool through the return jets.

The ionizer contains electrodes made of copper and/or silver, which are placed next to each other where the water exits the ionizer and enters the return pipe. The device uses low-voltage DC current to energize those electrodes, activating their sanitizing properties.

This happens because the electrical current causes the copper and silver atoms to lose one electron each, thereby turning the atoms into cations, which are positively charged ions because they contain more protons than electrons.

The cations are then carried into the pool by the water rushing through the ionizer. They float in the pool water until they encounter a microorganism with negatively charged ions, or , so called because they contain more electrons than protons.

The cations attach themselves to the anionic microorganism—bacteria, for example—and erode the organism’s cell wall, thereby destroying it.

It’s important to note, though, that a pool ionizer isn’t enough to fully sanitize a pool on its own. You must supplement with another sanitizer.

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Giving Your Ionizer a Sanitizing Boost

While pool ionizers do fight organic matter like algae, they’re not the best oxidizers, so they’re not completely effective on their own. To get full sanitization, you’ll need to supplement your pool ionizer with chlorine. You can use either liquid chlorine or tablets, whichever you prefer.

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The good news is, because a pool ionizer does reduce the amount of contaminants in your pool, you won’t need nearly as much chlorine as you would if it were the only sanitizer. Rather than the standard 1 part per million (ppm) to 3 ppm, if you’re using a pool ionizer, the chlorine level only needs to be somewhere between 0.5 ppm and 1 ppm.

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You may see some advice out there that says you don’t have to supplement with chlorine on an ongoing basis, and that you can rely solely on your ionizer if you just use chlorine shock weekly.

While we’re big advocates for using pool shock on a regular basis to keep the water clean and sanitary, we don’t agree with this advice. When it comes to eradicating viruses and bacteria—which equates to keeping you and your family safe from illness—and preventing algae from getting a foothold in your pool, you can’t do better than keeping your water chlorinated to some degree.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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What’s the Difference Between a Pool Ionizer and a Mineral System?

Simple. An ionizer uses electricity to create the ions, while a pool mineral system relies on cartridges pre-filled with eroded copper and silver ions.

Pool Ionizer Benefits

Thinking about switching to a pool ionizer? You have a few really good reasons.

Softer Water

You know how you kind of feel like a dried prune when you get out of a chlorine pool? Dry, itchy skin, and stiff, possibly green hair. And depending on whether the chemical levels are correct, your eyes may feel like they’re on fire.

Ionizer-sanitized water is silky soft. It’s gentle on your hair and skin, and shouldn’t irritate your eyes as long as, again, the chemical levels are correct.

Reduced Wear on Pool Equipment

That harshness your body feels as a result of chlorine? Your pool equipment feels it too. Even though that equipment is made to withstand being exposed to chlorinated water on a daily basis, it will begin to show signs of wear after a while.

Because the water is softer with a pool ionizer, the equipment won’t show the effects of harsh chlorine exposure. If it’s not beaten up by chlorine, it can last longer, which can also save you money in the long run.

Less Need for Chlorine

Remember, a pool ionizer still needs some chlorine to supplement its sanitizing power. But not nearly as much as you need if you’re using chlorine alone to sanitize your pool. This also means a lower possibility of chloramines being produced, and less money spent on the chemical.

Ionizer Minerals are Nontoxic

Sure, you don’t want to eat lumps of copper or silver. But the metal ions produced by the pool ionizer contain such low levels of the metal that they’re not harmful to anyone, even if someone accidentally swallows pool water. We can’t promise it’ll taste very good, though.

Pool Ionizer Drawbacks

We don’t think there’s anything that would warrant not using an ionizer at all. You’ll just need to be aware of a few things.

You Still Need Chlorine

Which means you still need to spend money on a sanitizer in addition to the ionizer. But if you want to keep bacteria and algae out of your pool, it’s absolutely necessary.

You May Spend More Money

Once you buy an ionizer, that’s it. There are no cartridges to add, no supplies to keep up with. But because you need to supplement with chlorine—and make sure you’re shocking often enough—it’s possible you’ll spend more money.

But really, the only way we see this happening is if you have an enormous pool, you have tons of people in it all the time, or you’re lax about managing the pool chemistry.

Your Pool May Be Stained

Because a pool ionizer uses copper and silver, it does have the potential to stain your pool’s surfaces when the metals oxidize in the water. Copper can leave greenish stains on pool surfaces, while silver can react with sunlight or shocking, and leave black stains on a plaster pool interior.

You can prevent this by using a metal sequestrant to keep oxidized metals from settling on your pool’s surfaces, and allow them to be filtered out of the water.

Solar Pool Ionizers

Aside from the electrical ionizers you can install in your pool circulation system, you’ll also find solar pool ionizers available. They’re free-floating sanitizers that use a copper anode attached to a small basket that is then attached to the device. That part remains submerged.

The top of the solar pool ionizer is covered in small solar panels. The ionizer uses the sunlight in place of electricity to generate the ions to sanitize the water.

Solar Pool Ionizer

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01/28/2023 04:54 am GMT

Solar ionizers are much less expensive than electric ones. But here’s the thing. Just like anything that runs on solar power, it’s not going to run as well—if at all—on cloudy days. Or at night.

The logical conclusion is that it may not provide as much sanitizing power as an electric pool ionizer. Our recommendation would be to stick with an electric option so you know it’s working at all times to keep your pool water clean.

Balancing Water Chemistry with an Ionizer

In addition to keeping the chlorine level lower when using a pool ionizer, the other chemical levels are a bit different.

Chlorine: 0.5ppm – 0.8 ppm
Alkalinity: 80ppm to 120ppm
pH: 7.2 to 7.6
Calcium hardness: 200ppm to 300ppm; no higher than 500 ppm
Total dissolved solids (TDS): 500ppm to 1,000ppm

Note: If you have hard water where you live, or the calcium hardness in your pool hovers around the higher end of the recommended range, you may need to remove calcium deposits from the pool ionizer’s electrodes from time to time.

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Sanitize Your Pool with Atoms!

If you want to use fewer and smaller amounts of chemicals in your pool, whether you’re looking for a gentler swimming experience, or you’re sensitive to harsh chemicals like chlorine, a pool ionizer is definitely a viable option.

Happy Swimming!

The post The Complete Guide to Pool Ionizers appeared first on Swim University®.

But maybe you’ve been thinking about switching to a different sanitizer. Chlorine can be harsh on the hair, skin, and eyes. When it starts to diminish, it can produce chloramines, which are what give off that telltale pool smell. And you might even have a sensitivity to it that can exacerbate certain conditions. If you’re on the lookout for an alternative sanitizer, consider the pros and cons of Baquacil^® before you make a decision.

What is Baquacil?

It’s a brand name for the chemical preservative-free polyhexamethylene biguanide, better known as PHMB, also known as biguanide. It’s a chlorine-free sanitizer. It was originally developed as a surgical disinfectant. It’s actually similar to hydrogen peroxide.

Then, in 1977, a method for using biguanide to control bacteria and algae in pool water was patented, and companies began using it to manufacture pool chemicals.

In addition to Baquacil^® you’ll find other biguanide brands available including SoftSwim, Revacil, Aqua Silk, and Splashes. But Baquacil^® seems to be the most commonly used of those brands, and has the widest selection of products to go along with the sanitizer. This includes everything from test strips, to pH decreaser, to filter cleaner, and much more.

Note: If use Baquacil^® instead of chlorine, you must use Baquacil^® oxidizers and algaecides. They’re created to work specifically with the sanitizer. You can, however, use other brand of chemicals to balance pH, alkalinity, and calcium.

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How Does Baquacil Work?

The key ingredient is the biguanide, which causes contaminants in pool water to bind together in water-insoluble clumps. This makes it easier for the pool filter to capture them. The downside is this also clogs the filter more quickly and more often than other sanitizers.

It’s not a huge deal, really. It just means you’ll have to clean your filter more often. This bit of extra work is a tradeoff for some of the benefits you’ll gain from using Baquacil.

Biguanide Benefits

If you’re not quite sure whether and why you may want to switch from chlorine to Baquacil^®, consider the positive effects it can have on your pool and your body.

You’re Less Likely to Be Sensitive to It

Let’s dispel a myth real quick—there’s no such thing as a chlorine allergy. But you can be sensitive to it, and this sensitivity can lead to chlorine rash or even hives. This is called irritant dermatitis, and it’s similar to a chemical burn, though not nearly as severe.

Chlorine can also cause respiratory difficulties if you already have a condition such as asthma, as well as dry out your skin, hair, and nails, and irritate existing dermatitis. It can also aggravate other skin conditions such as rosacea and eczema, though some people with eczema actually find chlorine soothing to their skin.

Baquacil^® has none of these effects.

It Doesn’t Create Chloramines

Aside from chlorine itself being a potential irritant, a chlorine byproduct called chloramines can also cause irritation and respiratory distress.

Chloramines are created when chlorine in pool water comes into contact with organic substances like sweat and urine, which contain nitrogen. A chemical reaction occurs as the chlorine works to rid the water of these substances. As a result, chloramines are created and rise out of the water, which means chlorine levels drop.

Chloramines are actually what you smell when you go to a public pool. It’s an indication there’s not enough chlorine in the water, so think twice before you jump in.

Because Baquacil^® doesn’t contain any chlorine, it’s not possible for it to produce chloramines. No smell, and no eye and lung irritation.

It’s More Stable in Sunlight

One of the reasons you need to stay on top chlorine levels is that sunlight—specifically, ultraviolet light—degrades chlorine, requiring you to add it frequently to keep levels stable.

Biguanide doesn’t degrade in sunlight, or because of changes in temperature and pH levels, which can also reduce chlorine levels.

It Doesn’t Give You a Bad Dye Job

Have you ever gone swimming and noticed your blond hair turned green from the pool? You know why that happens? Yup, you guessed it—chlorine. Well, actually, it’s because of copper in the water, but only if that copper is oxidized by chlorine.

Biguanide doesn’t oxidize metals. So if your water source contains copper, you can swim without fear of your hair turning green. Unless, of course, that’s the look you’re going for.

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Biguanide Drawbacks

Just like anything else, Baquacil^®has cons to go along with the pros.

It’s More Expensive

Baquacil^®and other biguanide-based pool chemicals usually cost more than chlorine. And remember, you’ll need an extra oxidizer, and you can only use algaecide made for biguanide sanitizer. You’ll really have to weigh this one against the benefits.

It Doesn’t Eliminate All Contaminants

Bacteria and algae? Absolutely. Biguanide is on the job. Sweat, body oil, urine, and, uh, other body waste? Sadly, no. Biguanide isn’t an oxidizer, which is the process that tackles those specific contaminants.

You’ll have to add the Baquacil^® Oxidizer. But it means an added expense as well as an added step in your pool care.

Its Sanitizing Effects Can Diminish Over Time

Just as can happen when you use antibacterial soap in your home, some microorganisms can become resistant to Baquacil^® after you’ve been using it for a while.

You won’t know this is happening because there’s no indication. You’ll just be swimming with bacteria and other invisible, nasty things floating in the water.

It Can Cloud Your Pool Water

It’s a sanitizer, not a pool clarifier. Cloudy water is a common side effect of biguanide. This is because when biguanide clumps together all those tiny contaminant particles, and those clumps get stuck in the pool filter, the filter can’t work as efficiently or effectively as it should. The result is cloudy water.

The good thing is, the Baquacil^® manufacturer also makes a flocculant to clear water haze.

And while this may be a bit of a hassle, it’s easily remedied by regularly cleaning the filter.

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Baquacil Pool Chemistry

Just like with other pool chemicals, you’re shooting for specific levels when you sanitize with Baquacil^®. You’ll also have a couple of additional chemical needs.

Sanitizer

In order to keep your pool water clean, keep the Baquacil^® levels between 40 parts per million (ppm) and 50 ppm. Never allow it to drop below 30 ppm.

pH

The amount of acidity in your pool water is indicated by pH. The ideal range for that is between 7.4 and 7.6.

The pH levels will be most affected by the Baquacil^® sanitizer, so remember to test pH levels every time you add more sanitizer.

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Alkalinity

Working as a buffer, alkalinity helps keep pH levels from drastically spiking or dropping every time changes occur in the water, whether it’s more chemicals being added or just rainfall. To be most effective, alkalinity levels should fall between 100 ppm and 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal.

If alkalinity falls below 100 ppm, the pH levels may rise or fall dramatically. If alkalinity rises above 150 ppm, your pool water may become cloudy and scale may form, which will cause pH levels to drop.

To keep things right where you need them, stock up on alkalinity increaser. In a pinch, you can also add sodium bicarbonate to the water to raise alkalinity.

To lower alkalinity, simply add pH decreaser. You can also use muriatic acid. Or you can just wait for the levels to drop on their own.

It’s much more likely you’ll have low alkalinity, but it’s good to know how to handle a high level if it happens.

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Calcium Hardness

While you don’t want too much calcium in your tap water, you do need a certain amount of it in your pool water. Calcium Hardness indicates how hard or soft your pool water is, which is a result of how much calcium is dissolved in it.

Too high, and you’ll likely end up with a cloudy pool on your hands. Too low, and the water can actually start eating away at metal and even the concrete in and around your pool. The ideal range to shoot for is between 175 ppm and 275 ppm.

To decrease Calcium Hardness:

• Remove some of the pool water and replace it with softer water. If you’re using tap water, use a hose filter to keep as much calcium out of the pool as possible.
• Use a flocculant to clump some of the calcium, and then vaccum it out. Afterward, be sure to backwash your filter and scrub your pool’s walls and floor to remove calcium deposits.
• Add muriatic acid to the water. This won’t reduce Calcium Hardness. Instead, it increases the water’s saturation level, which can balance the water.

To increase Calcium Hardness:
Simply add calcium hardness increaser. Continue adding and testing until the level reaches the goal range.

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Oxidizer

Because Baquacil^® doesn’t oxidize contaminants the way chlorine does, you’ll need to add an oxidizer to address things like sweat, body oils, shampoos, makeup, etc.

An oxidizer will also help boost the sanitizer’s fighting power against algae.

Important: Remember that you must use an oxidizer meant to work with a biguanide sanitizer.

Algaecide

The best defense against algae is keeping sanitizer levels steady. But because a biguanide sanitizer doesn’t oxidize, which is the process that helps it fight off algae, you’ll also want to keep an algaecide on hand.

Important: Remember that you must use an algaecide meant to work with a biguanide sanitizer.

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How to Convert from Chlorine to Baquacil

The best time to make this switch is in the spring when you open your pool.

1. Prepare the Pool Filter

You’ll want to start with a clean filter that ideally doesn’t have any chlorine residue in it.

Cartridge Filter: A simple rinse with water won’t be enough, nor will a spray filter cleaner. Use the Baquacil^® Universal Filter Cleaner to thoroughly clean the cartridge.

Your best bet is to replace the cartridge altogether. This way, you’re starting fresh with absolutely no chlorine in the filter.

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01/28/2023 04:34 am GMT

Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) Filter: Take out the filter grids, remove the D.E. powder from them, and use the Baquacil^® Universal Filter Cleaner to thoroughly clean the grids. Also clean out the tank taking care to remove all the D.E. powder from every surface. When everything’s clean, add new D.E. powder, and reassemble the filter.

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Sand Filter: You could clean the sand, but we highly recommend removing it all instead. It will be just about impossible for any filter cleaner to completely remove all the chlorine from every grain of sand.

Once you’ve removed the sand, thoroughly clean the tank. Add new sand, and reassemble the filter.

2. Have the Pool Water Professionally Tested

For this conversion, it’s best to Take a sample of your pool water to an authorized Baquacil^® dealer for a thorough analysis.

If the analysis reveals that your pool water contains any kind of metal, add Baquacil^® Metal Control. Use one entire bottle for every 2 ppm of metals and every 10,000 gallons of water. Run the pump continuously to circulate the water for 8 to 12 hours.

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01/27/2023 11:59 pm GMT

3. Add Sanitizer

To acheive the necessary 50 ppm level, add one half gallon of Baquacil^® Sanitizer and Algistat for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.

Test to make sure that level has been reached. If not, add another half gallon, then test again, repeating this process until the water contains 50 ppm of sanitizer.

4. Add Oxidizer

Remember, this is essential to protecting your pool from all contaminants. The Baquacil^® sanitizer can’t do it alone. Add one gallon of Baquacil^® Oxidizer for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.

Add CDX

This product works with the sanitizer and oxidizer to target kill and prevent pink slime and white water mold. Add 1 pint of Baquacil^® CDX for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.

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Enjoy Your Baquacil Pool!

Say goodbye to dry skin, stinging eyes, and green hair. All that’s left to do now is routine maintenance to keep all the chemical levels where they need to be.

How to Convert from Baquacil to Chlorine

If you’re already using Baquacil^®and want to go back to chlorine, you can switch back. The best time to do this is also in the spring when you open your pool.

1. Stop Adding Biguanide-Based Chemicals

Keep testing the water until all levels drop to zero. If you’re worried about algae invading while you’re doing this, you can add a non-biguanide-based algaecide and brush the walls regularly to keep the pool as clean as possible while you wait for the levels to go down.

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01/28/2023 08:22 am GMT

2. Clean the Pool Filter

Biguanide chemicals can build up inside your filtration system. To make sure they’re completely gone before you start taking your pool back to chlorine, give the filter a thorough cleaning.

Cartridge Filter: A simple rinse with water won’t be enough, nor will a spray filter cleaner. Soak it in a chemical rinse according to the package directions. This will usually be overnight.

Your best bet is to replace the cartridge altogether. This way, you’re starting fresh with absolutely no biguanide in the filter.

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D.E. Filter: Take out the filter grids, remove the D.E. powder from them, and soak them in a chemical rinse overnight. While they’re soaking, clean out the tank taking care to remove all the D.E. powder from every surface. When everything’s clean, add new D.E. powder and reassemble the filter.

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Sand Filter: You could clean the sand, but we highly recommend removing it all instead. It will be just about impossible for any filter cleaner to completely remove all the biguanide from every grain of sand.

Once you’ve removed the sand, thoroughly clean the tank. Add new sand, and reassemble the filter.

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01/27/2023 06:37 pm GMT

3. Adjust the Alkalinity

Regardless of what kind of sanitizer you’re using, remember to always adjust alkalinity before pH. Increase or decrease alkalinity as necessary to get it into that 100 ppm to 150 ppm range.

4. Adjust the pH

Once you have the alkalinity where you need it, it’s possible the pH will be low. Add pH increaser to get the level to the 7.4 to 7.6 range.

Note: If both the alkalinity and pH are low, try adding alkalinity increaser, then test the water before adjusting the pH. It may increase both levels.

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5. Add Non-Chlorine Shock

Add 4 pounds of non-chlorine shock per 10,000 gallons of water. For example, if your pool holds 20,000 gallons, you’ll add 8 pounds of shock. Run the filter continuously for 48 hours.

Important: Use only non-chlorine shock for this step. Do not use any other type of shock.

Note: The water may turn clear green. This is normal, and should abate when the transition process is complete.

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6. Readjust pH

After 48 hours, check the pH level again, and adjust it if necessary.

7. Add Chlorine

Don’t rush this step. You’re reintroducing chlorine after having used a non-chlorine sanitizer, so go slowly.

Start by adding one 3-inch chlorine tablet into your skimmer or chlorinator until it completely dissolves. Next, add two chlorine tablets, and let them completely dissolve as well. Continue this process, increasing the tablet count by one each time, until the water reaches a chlorine level of 1 ppm.

Once you’ve hit that mark, test the water one more time to make sure all chemical levels are where they need to be. Adjust as necessary, and then you can continue on a chlorine pool maintenance schedule.

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The Joy of Trying New Things

Tired of feeling like sandpaper after every swim? You might be ready to give Baquacil^® a try. Just remember you’ll be taking on some added expense, and a little extra work. But you may find those to be acceptable tradeoffs.

And if it doesn’t work out, no worries! You can always switch back to chlorine. It’ll also require some extra effort, but it’s not impossible. Whatever sanitizing system you choose, the most important thing is that you and your family enjoy your pool.

Happy Swimming!

The post Baquacil Pool Chemistry 101: The Complete Guide appeared first on Swim University®.