It’s a common problem, especially when you open your pool in the spring, and it has a simple cause: there’s air in the pool pump. Luckily, it’s easy to troubleshoot and fix.

How Did Air Get in the Pool Pump?

Don’t worry, it’s not as serious a problem as it may sound. When you see air bubbles in the pool, it’s likely the air is entering via the suction side of your pool. You can check three places to determine how you’re getting air in the pool pump.

The Skimmer(s)

This is where water is supposed to enter the filtration system. But if there’s a problem with the skimmer, there’s probably a problem with air in the system.

Check the Pool’s Water Level

If your pool doesn’t have enough water, your skimmer(s) might be pulling in air, which is why you’ll see bubbles in the pool. Be sure the water level sits in the middle of the skimmer’s opening.

Check the Skimmer Basket

Make sure the skimmer baskets are not damaged and are seated properly to ensure good water suction.

Check the Weir

This is the skimmer flap or door on the front of the skimmer. It’s there to trap large debris from entering the filtration system. It also regulates water flow into the system. Sometimes it can get jammed, so make sure it’s moving freely.

Note: If the skimmer doesn’t have a weir, it’s a good idea to install one.

The Pump

If everything seems to be OK with the skimmer, the problem may be with the pump itself.

Check the Pump Lid

If it’s cracked, that’s the problem. However, the most common issue has to do with the lid’s O-ring.

Check the O-Ring

Turn the pump off, remove the lid, and check the O-ring for cracks. Just bend the O-ring between your fingers, around the whole O-ring, to check for any signs of cracking.

If it looks like the O-ring is splitting or dry-rotted, it needs to be replaced. If there are no signs of cracking, that’s a good thing. Before you put it back onto the lid, spray it with a Teflon-based O-ring lubricant to create a better seal, and help keep it from drying out.

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In the video below (at the 8:28 mark), I demonstrate how to check for cracks and apply lube to your pump lid O-ring.

Check the Pump Basket

Sometimes, if the basket is cracked, it won’t be seated correctly in the housing. Replace the broken filter basket, then make sure you clean it frequently and keep it properly seated so the lid seals properly.

Check the Drain Plugs

On the pump housing, you’ll find a drain plug, possibly two. Make sure the drain plugs are not loose or leaking. You can apply some pipe thread sealant tape, also called plumber’s tape, to the drain plug threads for a tighter seal.

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Note: Remember, after you take it apart for any kind of maintenance, you may need to prime the pool pump before you start running it again. Also check out our other pool pump troubleshooting tips if you need more help.

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The Union(s)

If you have an inground pool, you might have some unions in the plumbing. These are threaded connectors between piping that will allow you to easily replace your filter equipment without having to cut any pipe.

Inside the union, you’ll find another O-ring to check for damage. If you see cracks in the O-ring, replace it. If not, make sure the O-ring is properly seated inside its groove. If the O-ring isn’t in its groove (and we all know how that feels, right?), it won’t create a proper seal and will allow air to get into the system, which will create air bubbles in the pool.

Leave the Air Outside Where It Belongs

Air can be a good thing. It’s nice in balloons, in scuba tanks, and inside airplanes. But it’s not so great to get air in a pool pump.

Keep an eye on those jets, and the minute you start seeing bubbles in the pool, troubleshoot and the get the air outta there.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Fix Air in a Pool Pump appeared first on Swim University®.

But what happens when you look down at the water and find sand in your pool? How the heck did that get there?! Where did it come from? How do you get it out? And most importantly, how do you keep it from happening again? Don’t worry, there’s no reason to panic. This is all simpler than it may seem.

Why Do I Have Sand in My Pool?

The first question to solve this mystery is an easy one to answer: Do you have a sand filter? If the answer is yes, well, there’s the problem.

Finding sand in your pool means one or more parts of your sand filter have broken, and the filter is no longer functioning the way it should.

Broken Filter Parts

When something cracks or breaks inside your sand filter, you’ll know it because that’s when you’ll start to see sand in your pool.

Standpipe

Inside a sand filter, a standpipe that runs down the center of the sand. The standpipe is made of rigid, strong plastic, but it’s still possible for it to crack at some point, which will mean sand in the pool. At the top, the pipe connected to the multiport valve. At the bottom, it’s connected to laterals.

What Are Laterals?

Inside a sand filter tank, water pours into the sand from the top. As it makes its way down through the sand, small debris and contaminants are filtered from the water. Once it reaches the bottom of the filter, the now-clean water is expelled back into the pool through the return jets.

Of course, you only want water to go into your pool—none of the sand from the filter. To make sure that happens, at the bottom of the filter is an array of eight to ten laterals, which acts as a sieve. Each lateral is full of tiny perforations large enough to allow water to pass through the filter, but not sand.

If, for some reason, one or more of the laterals crack, sand will easily pass through and be sent into your pool along with the clean water.

So now you actually have two problems—you need to fix the filter, and you need to get the sand out of your pool, in that order.

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How to Fix a Broken Standpipe or Laterals

You may never find out how it happened. Maybe the filter was moved, which shifted the standpipe, and under the heavy weight of the sand, cracked the laterals. Or maybe your filter is just old and the parts have worn out. No matter how it happened, you must fix it to prevent a sandbar from forming in your pool.

It’s more common for laterals to crack than the standpipe, but it’s a good idea to be ready to replace both just in case. The good thing is, you’ll follow the same process you use when you change the filter sand. You’ll just add one step: Replace the broken pieces inside your filter before you add the new sand.

Important: Remember to order a new standpipe and new laterals before you start this process. It’s a good idea to keep a few of those parts on hand so you’re ready for this kind of repair if it happens again.

Once you’ve replaced the broken parts and put your filter back together, you can move on to addressing the sand in your pool.

How to Remove Sand From Your Pool

There’s a little good news in all of this. If your sand filter breaks and starts dumping sand into the pool, it will be fairly concentrated below the pool returns. If you had millions of grains of sand dispersed through the water, it would be a much bigger headache!

1. Use a pool brush to push all the sand to one area, or at least to a few concentrated areas.
2. Set the filter’s multiport valve to “Filter.” You can vacuum the sand back into the filter.
3. Vacuum your pool manually, .
4. Test and balance the water with test strips or a liquid test kit, and add chemicals as necessary.

While it does take some elbow grease, fixing the problem of sand in your pool is actually pretty simple.

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What if I Don’t Have a Sand Filter?

Let’s say you find a substance in the pool that looks like sand, but can’t possibly be sand because you don’t have a sand filter or live anywhere near a beach. We have a bit of bad news for you. It may actually be yellow pool algae, also called mustard algae.

To test this, use a pool brush to push it around a little. If it disperses into a cloud, it’s probably algae, so you’ll need to follow the steps to get rid of mustard algae instead.

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Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Keep the Sand Where it Belongs!

If you find sand in your pool, you’ll be able to remove it, fix your filter, and get back to enjoying a nice swim. Just remember, you’ll need to take care of the problem as soon as you notice it. The more sand you allow to get into your pool, the more work it’ll be to remove it.

Happy Swimming!

The post Why There’s Sand in Your Pool and How to Get it Out appeared first on Swim University®.

The key is to know how to troubleshoot your natural gas pool heater. You’ll get back to enjoying your pool more quickly, and you’ll save money if you don’t need to call in a professional.

Common Gas Pool Heater Problems

Knowing what to expect is half the battle. When you’re prepared for the possibilities, troubleshooting is much easier.

The Pilot Won’t Light

This is the first thing to check on any type of gas appliance. If the pilot won’t light, the gas pressure could be low, the air supply may be poor, or the heater may not be venting properly.

Check the gas pressure, and adjust it if necessary. Then check all the vents to make sure they’re not blocked. If any of them are, simply remove the blockage, and try lighting the pilot again.

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The Heater Won’t Ignite

This brings you back to the first troubleshooting option: check the pilot light to make sure it’s lit. Then make sure the pool heater is turned on, and the gas supply valve is in the on position.

If all of that is in order, then make sure the thermostat is set to a temperature higher than the water temperature.

The Heater Won’t Reach the Desired Temperature

In most cases, this just means the thermostat is set too low. However, it could be that your heater is too small for your pool, or you don’t have an adequate supply of gas to the heater.

In some cases, the high limit switch could be faulty, which may signal a natural gas pool heater to turn off before it’s heated the water to the desired temperature. On occasion, you may just be running the heater when it’s too cold outside. If this is the case, you’ll have to wait for warmer weather.

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The Heater Cycles on and Off

This is usually caused by a water flow issue. This could be due to a dirty filter, a closed valve, or even reversed water connections. Sometimes, this can be caused by the thermostat itself, and you may need to replace it.

The Heater Is Leaking

Over time, the chemicals you use in your pool to keep the water clean can damage the heat exchanger. This could also occur due to low winter temperatures. In some cases, you’ll need to replace the exchanger, but you could also just have a leaky gasket or a loose connection.

Check the gaskets and connections first before moving on to more expensive repairs.

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The Heater Leaks When Burner Is Lit

This is often caused by condensation that builds up when heating very cold water. However, it can also be a result of a damaged internal bypass or excessive water flow. You may need to install an external bypass to reduce the water flow into the gas pool heater.

The Heater is Black on Top or Expelling Dark Exhaust

These are both signs that a gas pool heater is experiencing a buildup of excessive heat while running. If this happens, double check the gas pressure and make sure there’s an adequate air supply and proper venting.

In some cases, this problem could be caused by down-drafting or wind. To fix this problem, you’ll need to install a high wind stack. Most pool heater manufacturers sell this after-market accessory.

The Heater is Rusted

The same chemicals that can damage the exhaust can also corrode your heater. If you find rust in your pool while the heater’s running, it’s a good bet it’s coming from the heater.

Replace any corroded parts in the heater, and keep your pool water balanced to help prevent corrosion.

Call a Pro

If all else fails, or you’re uncomfortable working with gas, don’t be afraid to call in a professional. Better to spend a little money than deal with damage or possibly even injury.

Warm up That Cool Pool

Swimming when the days are cooling down is one of the best things about having a pool. There’s nothing quite like jumping into that warm water on a brisk day.

If you have a gas pool heater, make sure it’s in the best working condition possible when temperatures start to fall. You’ll be able to extend pool season and enjoy it a little longer.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Troubleshoot a Gas Pool Heater appeared first on Swim University®.

The Anatomy of a Pool Pump

• Pump Lid: Made with the same material as bulletproof windows, the lid is where you can inspect the health of your filter system. If you see air bubbles or no water while the pump is running, it could be an air leak on the suction side of your pool or the lid o-ring.
• Strainer Housing with Basket: The water first enters here and collects debris before it reaches the drivetrain.
• Drain Plug: Used to drain the pump during winterization. You may have more than one drain plug on your pump.
• Pump Housing with Impeller: This is the main control center where the impeller, diffuser, and seals live. The impeller spins on the motor shaft which pumps the water from your pool to your filter.
• Pool Pump Motor and Shaft: Its only job is to spin the impeller.

1. The pool pump isn’t turning on or it’s turning off while running.

• If your pump doesn’t turn on OR shuts off quickly after it’s started, it’s probably an electrical problem. Check your breaker box for blown fuses Then, check your connections to make sure nothing is loose or damaged. If you don’t know what you’re doing, hire a qualified electrician.
• If your motor overheats and shuts down after it’s started, it could be an overloaded circuit — so make sure you’ve got the right voltage for your pump. And check the motor’s vents to make sure nothing is blocking the fan.
• If the pool pump motor shaft isn’t rotating, check to see if the motor is jammed with debris.
• If the pump turns on but isn’t running full steam and you hear a humming noise, check your capacitor. The capacitor starts your pump with a jolt of electricity. This is one of those parts that are best replaced by a professional.

2. The pool pump runs but has low water flow.

This means your pump needs to be primed because something has interrupted its suction or water flow. It could be something blocking it, a dirty pool filter, or too much air in the system.

• If there’s something blocking your pump’s suction, check your filter gauge. If it’s 10psi above the normal reading, clean your filter. This will reduce pressure and reset your pump’s flow. Then check your pump basket and impeller for debris.
• If there’s air in the system, it’s probably coming through the skimmer or leaky o-ring. Make sure your swimming pool water level isn’t too low and check your skimmer basket for debris. You may need to fill your strainer basket with water and reseal it. Learn more about how to fix air in your pool pump.
• Finally, you’ll probably then need to prime the pump to get it going again. See the video below.

3. The pool pump is leaking.

If you have a leaky pump, look for any seals that need replacing. Check the o-rings in the impeller housing, the thread sealant, or the shaft seal.

• To check for leaky o-rings, bend the o-ring all around and look for cracks.
• If you see any cracks at all, it means the o-ring as dried out and needs to be replaced.
• If you don’t see any cracks, just apply o-ring lube which will help create a better seal and keep your o-ring lasting longer. You can be pretty liberal with the lubricant too. Don’t be shy

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4. The pump is sucking in air.

This can happen for a number of reasons:

• A loose pump lid
• A crack in the pump
• A faulty thread sealant
• Faulty o-rings and gaskets
• An air leak in the suction line
• A leaky valve stem
• OR a plumbing issue on the suction side of the pump.

Look for cracks, leaks, or bad fittings and replace the part. Check out our article on getting air out of your pool pump.

As always, if you don’t feel confident replacing a part yourself, call a professional.

5. The pump is making a lot of noise.

If your motor is really rattling, your pool pump may just need better water flow. Clear any blockages out of a plumbing line and look for air leaks.

However, if your motor has a high-pitched screeching sound, your pump could have bad bearings.

Of course, we recommend calling a professional to take apart the motor and replace the bearings. But you could also try kickstarting the pump by softly hitting the motor with a rubber mallet or the soft sole of a shoe. Sometimes this can help. But be careful.

6. The pump basket isn’t filling with water.

The pump could be sucking in air or your filter or pump basket could be clogged.

1. Clean the filter and pump basket
2. Check the water level in your skimmer. If it’s low, that could be your air problem.
3. Then use the shaving cream test to check for other air leaks.

7. The pool pump is humming and won’t start.

First, check the impeller for blocking debris. Turn off the pump and remove the screws on the pump housing. Pull out the pump assembly and remove any gaskets away from the impeller. Then, remove any debris you see and put the pump back together.

If you hear a buzzing or humming noise, it’s coming from the pump motor. This means power is reaching the motor but is having trouble starting it. It could be a bad capacitor, centrifugal switch, or a buildup of rust in the motor. It could also mean the impeller is stuck.

3 Signs Your Pool Pump Is About To Die

A well-made pool pump should last about 8-10 years with proper maintenance. But how can you tell your pump is on its last legs?

1. You have consistently low PSI from your filter.

If the pressure gauge on your filter is lower than normal, you might have a clogged skimmer basket or pump strainer. But if this keeps happening even when everything is clean, it could be that your impeller is wearing out.

2. The pool pump is constantly leaking.

If you’ve done everything you can to fix your pump leaks but it still occurs regularly, it could be that the seal on the motor shaft as worn out. The good news is, this can be replaced on the cheap without buying a whole new pool pump.

But if you have tried everything you know to do and there is still water constantly dripping from the pump even when it’s turned off, it’s a sign that the seal on the motor shaft has worn out.

3. The pool pump always loses prime.

Of course, if you’ve troubleshooting correctly, you could still have issues with keeping your pump primed. It could be warped parts or it’s just time to get a new pump. Here’s our complete guide for finding the best new pool pump.

In the end, if you’re still having issues or you don’t feel confident doing something yourself, call a professional. And if your pump is constantly leaking or losing suction or has low filter pressure gauge readings, it might be time to get a new pool pump.

The post 7 Troubleshooting Tips For Your Pool Pump Not Working appeared first on Swim University®.

Not only can a damaged pump be expensive to repair or replace, until it’s fixed or you get a new one, your pool will essentially be shut down. The water can’t circulate without the pump, which means it can’t run through the filter, which means the longer it sits stagnant, the dirtier it gets.

A lot of things can happen to keep a pump from working properly. Thankfully, a lot of those things can be avoided simply by knowing how to prime a pool pump.

Why Do I Need to Know How to Prime a Pool Pump?

Nearly every piece of pool equipment you own is made to withstand being wet or submerged at all times. Usually, it’s because part of its function means it’ll be in close proximity to water, and needs to not fail or corrode in that wet environment.

But the pool pump is a little different. It’s meant to function only with water inside it. It’s not just that it can get wet and not be damaged. It’s that if it’s not wet—if it’s not full of water—it’ll be damaged.

What Happens When a Pool Pump Goes Dry?

The pump is like the heart of your pool’s circulation system, and the water is its lifeblood. Without water moving through it at all times, the pump’s motor will begin building friction, which creates heat. This will cause the seal to overheat and melt.

If it runs without water for too long, and the pump itself overheats, the heat could damage PVC pipes connected to it, as well as other components in the plumbing system.

Eventually, the pump itself won’t be able to withstand the heat, and it’ll seize up, possibly breaking beyond repair.

Depending on the brand and type of pump you have, replacing it could be quite an expense. Plus, it just hurts to spend that much money—any amount of money, really—when the damage could so easily have been prevented.

The overheating, the melting seal, the PVC damage, the premature pump death—it can all be avoided by priming the pump.

What is Priming a Pool Pump?

Sometimes, air will manage to make it into your pool pump without your having done anything to invite it.

For example, if you live in an area that sees freezing temperatures during the winter, you’ll want to blow the water out of the plumbing lines before you close your pool. This will keep the water from freezing in the pipes, which can damage them. When you blow the water out of the plumbing system, you’re replacing it with air.

Come spring, when it’s time to open your pool, if you just start the pump while it still only has air in it, you’re going to run into all those overheating problems. You need to get water flowing into and through the pump before fully turning the system on. And you do that by priming the pump.

How to Prime a Pool Pump

It’s a simple, straightforward process, but don’t underestimate its importance. It’s vital to learn how to prime your pool pump, and to never skip the process when it’s necessary.

1. Turn the Multiport Valve to Recirculate

This will direct the water into the filter head, and then right back out to the pool.

2. Remove Pool Plugs

You’ll need water to be able to flow into the pump, so remove any plugs you may have in the skimmer(s) or return jets before you turn any equipment on.

3. Fill The Pump With Water

Remove the pump’s lid and check the inside. If it’s dry, you’ll need to add some water before you turn it on. Make sure all the drain plugs are in place, then use a garden hose to pre-fill the pump housing.

Allow water to run into the pump housing for at least two minutes. This will allow some water to seep into the pipes that extend from the skimmer to the pump so there’ll be enough water to create suction in the pump.

4. Turn the Pump On

Replace the lid, and turn the pump on. It may gurgle and sputter a little, and it may take a little time, but eventually, you should see water filling the pump housing.

Once the housing is full of water, the pump is primed, and you’re ready to go!

Pump Priming Troubleshooting

Depending on how long your pump has been sitting dry, it may take a couple of tries to get it primed.

Sometimes, no matter how many times you go through the process, the pump just won’t prime. If that happens, you can try a couple of other tactics to get it going.

Add More Water to the Pump

Turn the pump off, remove the lid, and add more water. It might be that there’s just not enough water in the system to create the suction necessary to get it moving into and through the pump.

Important: It’s imperative that you turn the pump off before you add more water. Removing the lid while the pump is running will also impede the creation of enough suction to get the pump working properly. In addition, without the lid, some of the water may splash out of the pump, defeating the purpose of adding it.

Once you’ve filled the housing, replace the lid, turn the pump back on, and watch for the housing to (hopefully) fill with water.

Add Water Through a Skimmer

Rather than letting water run directly into the pump housing, place the hose in one of the pool’s skimmers. It could be that air is simply blocking the water from moving through the system. Adding water from the opposite direction may loosen things up.

Note: When trying this method, it’s not necessary to turn the pump off first. After all, that’s how your pool should normally work—water enters the skimmers, and makes its way to the pump.

Check for Leaks

If, after several tries, your pump still won’t prime, it’s possible there’s a leak in the housing. Inspect the pump for cracks or other damage. It may be time for a new pump.

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Call in a Pro

If you simply can’t get it to work no matter what you do, consider calling in a pro. Sure, it’ll cost more than doing it yourself, but it can also prevent further damage to the pump.

It’s Prime Time!

While you’ll have to perform this process most often when opening the pool, you may have to do it during the open season as well.

Keep an eye on your pool’s water level. If it drops too low for some reason, or there’s a blockage in the skimmer, and not enough water is entering the system through that skimmer, it could dry out the pump and cause all those overheating problems you want to avoid.

Even if that does happen, knowing how to prime the pool pump means you’ll be able to fix it quickly, and get back to enjoying the pool in no time.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Prime a Pool Pump in 4 Easy Steps appeared first on Swim University®.