There are 7 key components to salt water pool maintenance:

1. Add the Right Amount of Salt
2. Maintain Proper Water Circulation
3. Prevent Erosion and Calcium Buildup
4. Check Your Salt Cell Every 3 Months
5. Keep Your Water Balanced, Especially pH and Chlorine
6. Shock Your Pool Every Week
7. Skim, Brush, Vacuum Every Week

Check out our video below or keep reading for a complete walkthrough.

Before we cover each component of salt water pool maintenance, remember that a salt water pool is a chlorine pool. Your salt water generator, also known as a salt chlorine generator, turns the salt that’s added to your pool into chlorine. So instead of adding chlorine directly to your water to keep your chlorine levels up, you add salt to your water that produces chlorine. Check out our guide on Salt Water vs. Chlorine Pools for more information.

By the way, if you want all of this pool care information in one easy-to-use place, grab our FREE Pool Care Cheat Sheet!

1. Add the Right Amount of Salt to Your Pool

Usually, you only need to add salt to your pool water once or twice a year or right when opening your pool. That’s because the salt you add to the water won’t dissipate. The salt water generator uses the salt to produce chlorine and then it’s recycled back into the water. So you’ll likely only need to add salt right after pool opening, heavy rain, or when adding fresh water since this will dilute your salinity.

Use pool-grade salt (sodium chloride) that’s at least 99% pure. Certain chlorine generators need to be turned off while you’re adding salt to the pool, so check your owner’s manual first. And be sure to turn the pool pump on to help circulate the salt through the water.

How Much Salt to Add to Your Pool

You’ll need to add enough salt to get your salinity level between 2,700 to 3,400 parts per million (PPM). Usually, 3,200 PPM is ideal but check your owner’s manual for their specific, recommended range. Then use a pool salinity calculator to find out how much salt you need.

If you have a 20,000-gallon pool and you’re adding salt for the first time, you’ll need about 568 pounds of salt. Pool salt is sold in 40-pound bags, so you’d need about 14 bags of salt.

Remember, it’s always easier to add more salt later than remove it once it’s added. So if you’re unsure, add less salt initially and retest your salinity levels before adding more.

How to Add Salt to Pool

First, turn on your pool filter system. Then pour the salt directly into the deep end of your pool. Use a pool brush to push the salt around the bottom of the pool. Pushing the salt will also help it dissolve in the water. Then allow your pump and filter to run for 24 hours to ensure even distribution of salt through the pool.

Test the water’s salinity with a digital salinity tester or salt test strips. Continue to add salt if the levels are still low. But if the salt level is too high (5,000 ppm or higher), you’ll need to dilute your pool water to bring salinity down.

Once the salt level is where it should be, turn on the salt chlorine generator.

2. Maintain Proper Water Circulation

If your swimming pool water isn’t circulating well, your salt water concentration may get too high in some areas.

Double-check your salt levels around your pool with a digital salinity tester. Be sure to test the water in multiple areas to make sure the numbers are consistent. If there’s a drastic difference between numbers, angle your return jets towards the pockets of salinity to help circulate dead zones.

Keep your water circulating by running your pump and filter at least 8 hours a day. For more help with pool pump run times, check out our guide on How Long Should I Run My Pool Pump Every Day?

3. Prevent Erosion and Calcium Buildup

Splash out can cause high concentrations of salt outside of your pool. And that can erode parts of your pool, especially limestone or other soft stone coping around your pool. So be sure to hose down the area around your pool. Splash out can also lead to high concentrations of salt on the outside of your pool liner, so rinse this off as well. Finally, if you have an automatic pool cover, rinse off its metal tracks and hardware with a hose every few weeks.

if you see white flakes in your pool, that’s usually not salt — it’s a buildup of calcium carbonate. Calcium flakes are caused by the high pH byproduct and scale formation in your salt cell. This can happen when you first turn on your salt water generator at the beginning of the season and it usually resolves after it runs for a bit. But salt water generators are prone to calcium buildup, so avoid using chlorine shocks with calcium, like cal-hypo shock, and be sure to regularly clean your salt cell.

Finally, very high pH levels can also cause corrosion of your pool equipment, so be sure to test and balance your pool’s pH regularly.

4. Check Your Salt Cell Every 3 Months

Calcium can build up on your salt cell over time. If you see white flakes in your pool, that’s usually not salt — it’s a buildup of calcium carbonate. Calcium flakes and scaling are caused by the naturally high pH byproduct from your salt water generator running. But even if you don’t see calcium flakes in your water, you could have buildup on your salt cell. And if your pH levels or if your pool water temperature is too high, calcium will build up faster.

Inspect the cell at least every 3 months and clean it by hand or with a hose to remove build-up. You can also use a diluted solution of muriatic acid to remove deposits. But be sure to follow any cleaning directions that came with your salt water generator.

Start by turning off the salt water generator and other connected pool equipment. Then unplug the generator and unscrew and remove the salt cell. Inspect the metal plates, looking for white and flakey spots on the metal inside. If there are no deposits, reassemble the system and check it again in another few months. But if you do see visible deposits, remove any large deposits by hand without forcing your hands into the cell. Rinse the cell with a hose to remove the remnants.

If you still can’t remove the deposits, you can use a solution of 5:1 water to muriatic acid. Wear protective gear like a face mask and gloves and pour the acid into the water to mix it. Cap the cell and pour the acid solution into the salt cell. Allow it to foam for 10 minutes. When it’s done, pour the solution back into the bucket. Use a hose to wash the inside of the cell and put the system back together.

Limit chemically cleaning your salt cell as much as you can, since using chemicals will damage the cell over time. And do not pour the leftover acid solution on the ground or into your pipes.

5. Keep Your Water Balanced, Especially pH and Chlorine

While these levels are important whether or not you have a salt water pool, there are some nuances and challenges you’ll face with your pH and free chlorine levels.

While your salt water generator should display the correct chlorine levels in your water, there are times when the system might not be working correctly. And as we mentioned before, salt water systems produce naturally high pH levels. So testing and balancing your water regularly, especially your pH and chlorine, is crucial.

1. Test Free Chlorine Levels Every Week

Keeping your free chlorine levels around 3 PPM ensures that your water is properly sanitized. And while your salt water generator should tell you how much chlorine is in the water, it’s worth running a quick 15-second test each week to make sure it’s measuring things properly.

Every week, use a liquid test kit or test strips to check the amount of free chlorine in your water. Then adjust your generator accordingly if you find your chlorine levels aren’t what they should be.

It’s fine to keep the amount of chlorine in your pool a bit higher than 3 PPM. That’s because your salt water generator produces and disperses chlorine more evenly throughout the water.

2. Balance Your pH Levels Weekly

Your pH levels can run a bit high in a salt water pool since your salt water generator naturally produces high pH. However, high pH levels (pH above 7.6) can lead to eye and skin irritation as well as scaling on your pool equipment. That’s why you need to test and balance your pH every week. And if you do need to lower your pH levels, you can use pH decreaser or muriatic acid.

If you need more help lowering your pH, be sure to check out our guide on How to Lower pH in Your Pool.

Finally, double-check the run times on your salt water generator, since running the salt water pool system is what causes high pH levels. Try not to run your salt system for more than 10 hours every day.

3. Manually Test Salinity Levels Each Month

The majority of salt water generators will show you your water’s salinity level. But it’s always a good idea to test your salt levels manually to make sure your system is working correctly and not displaying a false reading.

During pool season, check your salinity levels once a month. Also, check your salt levels after heavy rain or if you had to drain out a significant amount of water. You can use salt water test strips, but we also recommend using a digital salinity reader.

4. Test and Balance Alkalinity, Stabilizer, and Calcium Monthly

In addition to monthly salinity testing, you need to test your alkalinity, stabilizer (or cyanuric acid), and calcium levels every month.

• Alkalinity: Total Alkalinity acts as a buffer to protect your pH level from fluctuation. But because running your salt water generator naturally increases your pH level, your total alkalinity has less of an impact on your pH. Ideally, your alkalinity level should be between 100 and 150 PPM. But it’s all right if your alkalinity levels are slightly below 100 PPM since your pH runs high. If you need help managing your alkalinity, check out our guide on how to lower alkalinity.
• Cyanuric Acid: Also known as CYA or stabilizer, your cyanuric acid levels usually need to be between 30 and 50 PPM. But some salt water pool owners find that it helps to maintain higher CYA levels of around 80 ppm, particularly for those who find it difficult to maintain an adequate chlorine level.
• Calcium Hardness: Your calcium hardness level should be between 200 and 400 ppm. If you have high calcium hardness levels, the mineral can calcify and damage your salt cell or cause scale build-up. If your calcium hardness is too high, you’ll need to drain some of your pool water or dilute it with fresh water.

6. Shock Your Pool Every Week

Shocking your pool is the act of adding a super-concentrated dose of chlorine to your water. And helps kill algae and bacteria and refreshes your active, free chlorine.

If your saltwater generator is equipped with a “boost” setting, you add extra chlorine from your saltwater system. This is a great setting to use weekly to help kill contaminants. You can also add a non-chlorine shock to help keep your chlorine working and active in the water.

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But if you’re experiencing issues like algae, you’ll want to add a more powerful dose of chlorine using granular dichlor shock or liquid chlorine.

Clorox Dichlor Pool Shock XtraBlue (1 Pound Bags), 12 Pack

This multifunctional pool shock from Clorox comes in a 12-pack. The algae-fighting granules create crystal clear water by killing bacteria and organic contaminants. It works well for smaller pools and saltwater pools. As a dichlor-based stabilized cholorine shock, it does contain cyanuric acid.

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When using a stabilized shock like dichlor, keep an eye on your CYA levels afterward. And avoid using cal-hypo shock because it can cause calcium buildup in your salt cell.

We recommend using the boost mode on your generator or shocking your pool once a week or after heavy use or a heavy storm. Be sure to retest your water the following day and rebalance any chemicals as needed.

7. Skim, Brush, and Vacuum Every Week

Like any pool, you’ll want to make sure your water is free from debris and your pool surfaces are clean. So once a week, use a skimmer net, pool brush, and pool vacuum to clean your water. A robotic pool cleaner can come in handy here. But if you need to manually vacuum your pool, be sure to check out our walk-through on How to Vacuum Your Pool.

Frequently Asked Questions About Salt Water Pool Maintenance

Need more help taking care of your salt water pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

How is a Salt Water Pool Different from a Traditional Chlorine Pool?

Both a salt water pool and a chlorine pool use chlorine to sanitize the water. Regular chlorine pools need chlorine to be added directly to the water. On the other hand, salt water pool systems use salt that’s added to the water to turn it into chlorine. The salt water passes through a system known as a salt chlorine generator. It uses electricity with pool-grade salt to break the salt down into sodium and chlorine.

Salt water pools have other benefits, like a smoother water feel and less irritation for swimmers.

What Happens if You Add Too Much Salt to a Salt Water Pool?

If your salinity levels reach 5,000 ppm or higher, you risk corroding your pool equipment and your salt water generator might not work properly. To bring salt levels back down to an acceptable level, you’ll need to dilute your pool water by partially draining and adding fresh water.

Is it easier to maintain a salt water pool?

Overall, a salt water swimming pool is easier to maintain than a chlorine pool. With a salt water generator, there’s no need to buy, store, and add chlorine to your water. Once you add the right amount of pool salt to your pool, your generator does the work. You just need annual top-ups of pool salt, unless you have to drain a significant amount of water from the pool. However, you will have to pay attention to the condition of your salt water generator and salt cell.

How often should a salt water pool be serviced?

You should inspect the salt cell every three months and clean it as necessary. But if your salt water generator needs maintenance, much of the service needs to be done by a professional.

Are salt water pools high maintenance?

No, salt water pools are not considered high maintenance compared to a traditional chlorine pool. But you will still need to test and balance pool chemicals. The salt water chlorinator maintains consistent chlorine levels for you, but you still need to keep pH, CYA, and other chemicals balanced.

What chemicals do you need for a salt water pool?

To maintain your pool’s water chemistry, you’ll need pool salt. You’ll also need a chlorine stabilizer, pH decreaser or muriatic acid, and a calcium hardness increaser in check. You will also need some non-chlorine shock and dichlor shock or liquid shock on hand for shocking your pool manually.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Salt Water Pool Maintenance 101: How to Keep it Clean and Clear appeared first on Swim University®.

Why Type of Pool Filter Do You Have?

Depending on the type of pool filter you have—cartridge, sand, or diatomaceous earth (D.E.)—the proper filter cleaning method will vary. And this guide covers all three. Scroll down to the section that applies to your filter system .

However, if you’re unsure what type of filter system you have, check out our guide on pool filters. It also depends on the brand of filter you have. For example, if you have a Hayward D.E. filter, chances are you’ll be dealing with filter fingers instead of grids which you’ll find in a Pentair filter.

Just make sure you have the proper pool equipment on hand for your type of filter, and then set aside some time to make sure it’s done properly. A dirty filter makes for a dirty pool.

How Often Should You Clean Your Pool Filter?

You should clean your pool filter at least once a month. A good indication that your filter needs to be cleaned is when the pressure gauge reads 10 psi above the normal operating level.

Cloudy water can also be an indicator that the filter needs a good cleaning. And if you’re dealing with cloudy pool water, read our cloudy pool water guide.

But sometimes your filter needs a deep clean. We recommend deep-cleaning your filter at least once a year depending on the type of filter you have.

Before we get into cleaning your pool filter, if you’re in need of a complete video course on taking care of your swimming pool, check out our Pool Care Video Course so you have clean water to swim in all season long.

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How to Clean a Cartridge Pool Filter in 4 Easy Steps

This is an easy type of filter to clean because you can simply pull out the pool filter cartridge, clean it, and replace it. You’ll need to follow a few steps to make sure it’s done right.

Once you have all the supplies, set aside some time to clean the pool filter. The process may even extend overnight, depending on how dirty the filter cartridge is.

1. Turn Off The Pump And Depressurize The Filter Tank

First, turn off the pool pump. If you have a timer, make sure you remove anything that’ll trip the timer and turn the pump back on. You don’t want the pump to come back on when you’re cleaning the filter cartridge.

For your own safety, remove air from the system. Turn the air relief valve (usually located on top of the filter) slowly to remove any excess air from the system.

2. Remove The Cartridge Inside The Filter Tank

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Remove the top of the filter. Then, carefully remove the cartridge and set it aside. Inspect it for damage and wear. If you find any cracks or tears, or it’s past the point where cleaning will be effective, it’s time to get a new filter cartridge to replace it.

3. Clean The Pool Filter Cartridge

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the cartridge, making sure to get between the pleats. If you want a special spray nozzle built specifically for cleaning pool cartridge filters, click here. Otherwise, a standard garden hose nozzle will work fine.

If the cartridge is dirty, use a filter cartridge cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

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If it’s been a while since you’ve cleaned the cartridge filter, it can be covered in algae, calcium build-up, sunscreen, iron, and other contaminants you don’t want in your pool. In this case, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. You can use the same filter cartridge cleaner to do this. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution.

Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a 5-gallon bucket. Place the filters in the bucket and allow them to soak overnight.

Check the O-ring on the filter tank. If it’s in good shape, lightly apply some lubricant to keep it that way. If it’s dry-rotted or appears worn out, replace it.

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Rinse the cartridge thoroughly with water before putting it back in the tank.

4. Replace The Filter Cartridge and Re-Pressurize

Return the cartridge to the filter, and secure it in place. Replace the filter top and close the clamps.

Turn the system back on, and open the air relief valve to release any excess air in the system. Keep the valve open until a steady stream of water sprays from it.

Check the pressure gauge to be sure it’s in the normal filter pressure range. If the pounds per square inch (PSI) is off, you may have put the filter back together incorrectly, or something else may be wrong with the system. Troubleshoot the pool filtration system to identify and correct the problem.

How to Clean a Sand Filter in 3 Simple Steps

You can backwash the sand filter, which you’ll need to do whenever it reaches 10 psi over the normal operating level. It may also be time to clean the filter if you start to notice cloudy pool water.

But at least once a year, you need to chemically clean your sand filter.

1. Backwash The Sand Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear.

If you need more help backwashing your filter, check out our complete guide on backwashing here.

2. Add Filter Cleaning Solution

Turn off the pump, and turn the valve to “Filter.” Remove the pump’s strainer lid and our sand filter cleaner into the strainer basket. Then, replace the pump lid.

Turn the pump on for about 15 seconds, just long enough to transfer the cleaner from the pump to the filter. Turn off the pump, and leave it off for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

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3. Backwash The Filter Again

Backwash the filter for 3 to 5 minutes again to remove the build-up of dirt and debris dislodged by the filter cleaner. Turn the filter system back on.

If you don’t already have a sand filter, you may want to consider investing in one. The time you’ll save in cleaning is time you can spend enjoying your pool.

How to Clean a D.E. Pool Filter in 5 Steps

You can chemically clean a D.E. filter or you can backwash a D.E. filter. Aside from those indicators, it’s a good idea to clean your D.E. filter at least once a month. And if you need more information on D.E. filters, check out our full guide here.

1. Backwash and Drain The D.E. Filter

First, turn off the pump and move the handle on your multiport valve to “Backwash.” If you have a push/pull valve, make sure it’s in the backwash position.

Attach your backwash hose to the waste port and turn the pump back on. Backwashing should take 1-2 minutes or until the water looks clear. If you need more help backwashing your DE filter, click here for our complete guide.

Then, turn the pump off and open the air relief valve. Finally, remove the drain plug, and let the water drain out of the filter tank.

2. Remove DE Filter Manifold

Remove the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual.

Open the filter tank and remove the filter manifold, and take out all the grids or fingers.

3. Rinse and/or Soak Filter Grids or Fingers

Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the manifold and grids/fingers, making sure to thoroughly flush all debris including the D.E. powder. If the manifold is really dirty, use a D.E. filter cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the manifold is really dirty, you may want to soak it overnight in a muriatic acid solution.

Important: The acid in muriatic acid is exactly that. It’s caustic, and can cause injury if you’re not careful. Take all the precautions necessary to protect yourself, and anyone else who may be around while you’re cleaning your filter. We recommend using this method if your filter is so filthy that regular filter cleaner isn’t enough. And if you use this method, do so sparingly.

Put on the safety goggles and acid-resistant gloves. We also recommend you wear long sleeves, pants, and closed shoes. Dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water in a large, plastic trash can with a lid can big enough to hold the acid solution and filter manifold. Place the manifold in the trash can, ensuring it’s completely covered with the diluted solution. Allow it to soak overnight.

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4. Put The Filter Back Together

Once the complete filter manifold is clean, rinse out the tank with the garden hose, and place it back into the filter tank.

Replace the clamps (or other latching mechanisms) holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to close it, check the owner’s manual.

5. Add Fresh D.E. Powder

Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.

Make sure the pump is running and pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer. Then, run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids or fingers.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning a Pool Filter

Keeping your filter clean will also help it run longer and more efficiently, saving you money, energy, and time. The longer you keep your filter in good working condition, the longer you can wait to replace it, and the more you can focus on enjoying your pool.

Can you use vinegar to clean a pool filter?

Yes, but only a cartridge filter (not sand or D.E.). Soak your pool cartridge filters in a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar). Allow the filters to soak for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours.

Can I soak my pool filter in bleach?

No. Bleach will damage the fibers of pool filter cartridges. You’re better off using a filter cartridge cleaner or a 50/50 split of water and white distilled vinegar (do not use white wine vinegar).

Can I use a pressure washer to clean pool filters?

No. A pressure washer is too powerful and will damage your filters. Your best bet is to soak your filters in a filter cleaning solution (specifically designed for pools) for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours (overnight).

How long do pool filters last?

If you take good care of your pool cartridge filters by cleaning them regularly, they can last 2-3 years. If you have a sand filter, the sand inside will last about 3-5 years.

How do you clean algae out of a pool filter cartridge?

If your cartridge filter is covered in algae, soak the cartridge in a filter cleaning solution overnight. Use a 5-gallon bucket, and make sure the cartridge is completely covered with the water and cleaning solution. Alternatively, you can dilute one part muriatic acid to 20 parts water.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the season for pool owners.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Clean a Pool Filter (Sand, Cartridge, D.E.) appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s our full in-depth guide to how to vacuum an inground or above ground pool quickly and effectively so you can get back to swimming.

What You Need To Vacuum Your Pool

• Pool vacuum head (also called a vac head).
• Telescopic pole to attach to the vac head.
• Pool vacuum hose long enough to reach every area of your pool.
• Skim vac or vacuum plate (optional if you want to use the skimmer basket).

If you’re looking for some more DIY pool maintenance video tutorials, invest in our Pool Care Video Course by Swim University®. We’ll show you the proper way to hook up your manual vacuum and vacuum your pool efficiently so you can spend more time swimming.

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A Step-By-Step Guide to Installing and Cleaning Your Pool with a Manual Pool Vacuum

Before you get started, make sure the pool pump and filter are running. You also want to check that you’re running at a good starting pressure. If you have a D.E. or sand filter and the pressure is high, backwash it. If you have a cartridge filter, make sure the cartridges inside are cleaned and ready to go. Here’s our full guide on cleaning every type of filter.

IMPORTANT: If you’re dealing with algae or cloudy water, change your filter valve settings to the waste setting if you have a multiport valve or push/pull valve. This will bypass your filter and send the dirty water out through the waste port. If you have a cartridge filter, just remove the drain plug and attach a backwash hose. Your pool water level will drop while you vacuum. Use a garden hose to add fresh water while you’re vacuuming.

1. Attach Vacuum Head and Hose to the Telescopic Pole

First, ensure the pump and filter are running. Attach the vacuum head to the open end of the telescopic pole. Attach one end of the hose to the vac head. If the hose is slippery, use a hose clamp to keep it in place.

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2. Fill The Vacuum Hose with Water to Remove Air

Place the vac head, telescopic pole, and hose in the pool, making sure the vac head rests on the bottom of the pool. Place the other end of the vacuum hose against a return jet in the pool. This will push water through the hose and drive all the air out.

Triple-check to make sure the vacuum inlet is the only line open to the pump. If not, particles and debris will also be sucked in by the pump and undo all your hard work.

NOTE: You’ll see air bubbles rising from the vacuum head on the floor of the pool. Once the air bubbles stop, all the air is out of the hose.

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3. Attach Vacuum Hose to Pool Skimmer

Attach the skim vac plate to the end of the hose you’d previously placed against the return jet, block the opening with your hand, and bring it over to the skimmer. Insert it in the skimmer on top of the basket and be sure to create a good seal or suction will be lost.

If you’re not using a vacuum plate, remove the skimmer basket inside. Use your hand to block the end of the water-filled hose. Then place the hose into the skimmer inlet, making sure it’s firmly inserted into the suction hole at the bottom of the skimmer.

NOTE: Whichever method you choose will create the suction that pulls material through the vac head, up through the hose into the skimmer, and then through the filter system. If your vacuum loses suction, just follow the prep steps again to restore it.

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4. Start Vacuuming

Now that you’ve built a powerful siphon using your filter system, you can vacuum the floor of your pool. Start at the shallow end (if you have one) and move toward the deep end of the pool. If you have a round pool, just start at one side and move left or right across the floor.

Use long, slow, sweeping strokes to clean. Make sure your strokes overlap slightly to avoid leaving any debris behind. Rushing will just kick up debris, which will reduce visibility and take hours to settle down again.

If the water does become cloudy, give it a couple of hours to resettle, then come back and vacuum again, repeating as necessary.

If the vac head becomes stuck, switch off the pump for a second to break the vacuum force and set it free. Also, be sure to monitor your pool filter’s pressure gauge as you vacuum. If the pressure rises above the levels recommended by the manufacturer, take a break, and backwash your filter.

5. Disconnect The Vacuum and Perform a Final Clean

Once you’ve finished vacuuming your entire pool, it’s time to clean up and get back to swimming.

1. Remove the vacuum head from the telescoping pole, and drain any water still in the vacuum hose. Attach your cleaning brush to the pole, and use it to scrub away any algae, dirt, and debris from the sides of the pool.
2. Clear any debris in your pump strainer basket, and backwash the filter if you have a multiport valve and used the “Filter” setting. Here’s our full guide on cleaning your pool filter after you’re done vacuuming.
3. If you used the “Waste” setting to vacuum the pool, make sure you switch the valve back to the “Filter” setting and keep adding fresh water to your pool until the water level is restored.
4. Once you’ve topped off your water, test your pool water, and adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine as necessary.
5. Rinse all your equipment with freshwater, dry it, and return it to storage. This will help keep it in top working condition and avoid unnecessary wear and corrosion.

You don’t have to dread the vac head! When it’s time to vacuum your pool—whether you’re just the hands-on type or waging war on invading algae—you can get the job done by hand with a little preparation, a lot of elbow grease, and a healthy dollop of patience.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vacuuming a Pool

Looking for more help with your pool vacuum cleaner? Here are some common questions and answers.

What setting do you put your pool filter on when vacuuming?

If you’re just doing a light debris vacuum, you can keep it on the “Filter” setting. But if your pool is really dirty, it’s best to put the filter on the “Waste” setting (not “Backwash”) to bypass the filter when vacuuming. The filter is now powerful enough to remove debris that quickly.

Do you vacuum a pool on backwash or waste?

If you’re vacuuming a lot of heavy debris out of your pool, your filter setting should be turned to “Waste.” Do not use the “Backwash” setting. The goal is the bypass the filter entirely which is what the “Waste” setting does. Backwashing reverses the flow of water through your filter to clean it out.

Do you leave skimmer basket in when vacuuming pool?

Don’t Like Vacuuming Your Pool By Hand? Here are our Favorite Automatic Pool Cleaners

First of all, welcome to the club! While some people find this to be a form of meditation, it’s still a chore. And thankfully, we live in a world of blossoming technology I can help you task this to a swimming pool vacuum that acts like a robot.

1. Robotic Pool Cleaners

Independent cleaners that vacuum your pool using electricity. You plug them in, drop them in your pool, and let them do all the hard work on their own. All you have to do is empty the built-in filter bag when they get full of debris. These are by far the best automatic pool cleaners on the market, but they can be a bit pricer. Hey, you get what you pay for.

We keep an updated list of our favorite robotic pool cleaners. But here’s one we highly recommend:

Our Top Pick

Dolphin E10 Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Grounds

$599.00

Designed for above ground swimming pools up to 30 feet. It takes less than 2 hours to clean your pool with built-in water filtering and scrubbing.

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01/28/2023 03:02 am GMT

Our Top Pick

Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus Robotic Pool Cleaner

Ideal for swimming pools up to 50 feet. Cleans large pools in just 2 hours. Includes dual scrubbing brushes and a built-in schedule using 3 settings: every day, every other day, or every 3rd day.

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2. Pressure-Side Pool Cleaners

These cleaners hook up to your return line and use the water pressure from your filter system to power a self-contained automatic cleaner around the bottom of your pool to pick up debris into a filter bag.

We highly recommend investing in a Polaris Pool Cleaner. But here’s our favorite one:

Our Top Pick

Polaris Vac-Sweep 65 Pressure Side Pool Cleaner for Above Ground Pools

$288.99

Connects to the pressure side of your pool and uses a patented jet sweep assembly to loosen and remove dirt and other particles from hard-to-reach places. It also has a trailing all-purpose debris bag that scoops up some of the larger items that are blasted loose from the pool floor.

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01/27/2023 11:50 pm GMT

Our Top Pick

Polaris Vac-Sweep 360 Pressure Side Inground Pool Cleaner

$579.00

The Polaris 360 automatic pool cleaner improves water circulation and helps mix chemicals and heat while it cleans the bottom and walls of your pool. It’s powerful enough to pick up larger items like leaves and pebbles, catching the debris in its own filter bag.

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01/28/2023 12:58 am GMT

3. Suction-Side Pool Cleaners

This is just an automatic version of vacuuming your pool manually. They hook up the same way you do when you vacuum your pool manually. The biggest difference, however, is that they move around the bottom of your pool by themselves. That way, you don’t have to stand there in the hot sun and do it yourself.

However, we recommend if you’re going to make this investment, that you go for a pressure-side or robotic cleaner. That said, here’s our favorite suction-side automatic pool cleaner:

Our Top Pick

Pentair Kreepy Krauly E-Z Vac Suction-Side Above Ground Pool Cleaner

$246.07

This Kreepy Krauly pool vacuum attaches directly to your pool skimmer line and is powered by your pool’s pump, using an internal free skimming valve to automatically regulate water flow, ensuring the unit is cleaning at the proper speed.

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01/27/2023 09:30 pm GMT

Our Top Pick

Kreepy Krauly Suction-Side Automatic Inground Pool Cleaner

$328.49

It connects directly to your pool filter system and includes 32 ft. of hose. It's powerful, balanced, and doesn't have any hammering noises (common in other suction-side pool cleaners) for quiet operation.

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01/27/2023 06:43 pm GMT

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Vacuum Your Pool Super Quick appeared first on Swim University®.

When you know how your pool works, the best ways to care for it, and how to plan for it, you’ll be ready to solve just about any potential pool problem that floats your way.

Good Pool Maintenance Begins with Knowing Your Pool

Before you can properly enjoy or care for your pool, you might need to brush up on all the parts of your pool. Knowing the basic parts of your pool, and their functions, helps you keep everything running smoothly—and makes it easier to resolve issues when they occur.

Looking for a full in-depth video course on swimming pool maintenance? Check out The Pool Maintenance Video Course and become a pool care master so you can effortlessly keep your water clean and clear all season.

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The Basic Components of a Swimming Pool

Every type of swimming pool has four components that need regular care. These include:

1. Pool Water

It might seem like a no-brainer but the water in your pool is key to lasting pool happiness. Keeping it clean, clear, and balanced protects you and your family from contaminants and pollutants. It also helps you avoid costly hardware repairs due to corrosion or mineral build-up, and helps your whole pool last longer.

2. Pool Interior

The walls of your pool liner are in constant contact with pool water, and everything that enters it. Keeping these surfaces in good repair, and clear of algae, mold, and debris, will help keep your pool clean and safe.

3. Pool Filter System

The pumping heart of your pool is also its liver. OK, that sounds a little weird. But think about it: your pool pump draws water keeps your water circulating, like your heart does with your blood. Your pool filter clears dirt and other contaminants from your water just like your liver filters last night’s cheese fries from your blood.

Both protect you and your pool from harm. Without a functioning filter system, your pool will soon be a cloudy, polluted, and unswimmable mess.

Depending on your setup, you might have a cartridge filter, a sand filter, a diatomaceous earth (D.E.) filter. Or, if you have a salt water system, a salt water chlorinator.

4. Pool Skimmers and Returns

If your pool’s filter is its liver, then your skimmers and returns are its veins and arteries. Your skimmers—not to be confused with a net skimmer, the cleaning tool attached to a telescoping pole—pull water into the filter for cleaning, while the returns push the cleaned water back into your pool. And like your veins and arteries, they work best when they’re clean and clear of obstructions.

No two pools are alike, and you’ll no doubt encounter pool maintenance challenges specific to your pool as time goes on. But if you’ve got a firm grasp on these four pool components, you’ll be well equipped to face down most upkeep challenges.

The Three C’s of Proper Pool Maintenance

The foundation of effective pool care is built on three simple but important concepts: circulation, cleaning, and chemistry.

1. Good Water Circulation

In your pool, moving water is cleaner, clearer, and safer. Proper pool circulation is key to healthy and safe swimming.

A pool with good circulation rarely has issues like cloudy water or pool algae infestation. Keep your pump and filter system running daily to maximize circulation.

How long should you run your pool pump? Ideally, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. But since that’s not feasible for everyone’s budget or equipment, we recommend running your filter at least 10 to 12 hours a day. That’ll turn the water over a few times and help keep your pool safe and clean.

The other key component to good pool circulation is frequently backwashing your filter. Backwashing refers to reversing the flow of water through your filter and shunting the dirty water and built-up contaminants to the waste port, carrying them out of your pool.

If you’re not sure how to clean a pool filter, it’s imperative to learn and make it part of your regular pool care routine.

Tip: If your pool has a sand filter, add a cup of D.E. powder to boost its filtering power. Cloudy water will clear more quickly as the D.E. aids your sand filter in straining fine particles.

2. A Pool Cleaning Schedule

If it has proper circulation, you’ve already made cleaning your pool much easier. But you’ll still need to apply some good old-fashioned elbow grease. The basic tools you’ll need are:

• Net skimmer
• Pool brush
• Pool vacuum

Both Mother Nature and the folks using your pool bring all sorts of wild and wacky things into your pool, from leaves, mold, and the odd duck or frog to residues from shampoos, perfumes, and hair products. Add in the risks of bacterial contamination, and cleaning your pool becomes an absolutely essential part of safe swimming.

Skim, brush, and vacuum your pool weekly, at a minimum. This will keep debris out of your water, and your walls sparkling clean. Baking soda paste works particularly well as a basic scouring cleaner that won’t damage delicate tile or a vinyl liner when you brush.

An automatic pool cleaner can significantly cut your pool cleaning time. It won’t eliminate the need for regular skimming and brushing, but it’ll make both tasks easier, freeing you up to spend time enjoying your pool instead of cleaning it.

You can also make your cleaning life easier with a few unorthodox additions to your pool. Toss a few tennis balls into your skimmer basket, or even right into the pool, and they’ll absorb surface oils left behind by suntan lotion, cosmetics, etc. You can also wrap your skimmer baskets with pantyhose to create an extra-fine filter that’ll catch more contaminants than a skimmer alone.

Simply replace both the tennis balls and the pantyhose when they start to show signs of wear.

Tip: If you have an inground pool, the drains built into the bottom of the deep end will help pull water into the filter and make it easier to clear debris loosened during cleaning. Above ground pools don’t have these drains, but you can get the same water-clearing boost with a manual pool vacuum.

Simply attach your vacuum to your filter system and place it in the middle of your above ground pool, making sure the vacuum is upside down. Turn it on, and it’ll act as a main drain to help you clear cloudy water more quickly.

3. Balancing Your Water Chemistry

Step away from the Bunsen burner. Pool chemistry might sound intimidating and complicated, but you don’t have to worry. While it is an essential part of effective pool maintenance and water care, basic pool chemistry is surprisingly straightforward.

The most important tool in your bag of water care tricks is your water testing kit. You wouldn’t season your stew without tasting it. So before you reach for the chemicals, do some pool water testing. Understanding what’s in your water, and what isn’t, is the first step to balancing it.

The three most important parts of pool water chemistry are:

• pH levels: The measure of how acidic or basic your pool water is. Low pH levels are acidic, while high levels are basic. The ideal range for your pool is 7.4 to 7.6.
• Alkalinity: Works as a pH buffer and helps avoid huge spikes in basicity or acidity. The ideal range is 100 to 150 parts per million (ppm). And you can use baking soda to increase your pool’s alkalinity level.
• Sanitizer levels: The amount of chlorine, bromine, etc. in your pool water. Proper levels vary depending on which type of sanitizer you choose.

Once you know your pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels, you can start to add chemicals to tweak your water balance. Take your time, follow all the directions, and be sure you know what each chemical does and how it’ll affect the water, and the folks who swim in it, before you add it.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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Don’t Forget to Add Pool Shock!

Every once in a while, your sanitizer will need a little help, especially after a rainstorm, or if a lot of people have been using the pool. To make sure your pool stays clean even when the sanitizer is maxed out, add pool shock on a regular basis.

Create a Maintenance Schedule

As you learn more about your pool and how to care for it, your to-do list might start to seem a little intimidating. Creating a pool maintenance schedule makes it easy to stay organized and make sure important tasks don’t slip through the cracks.

Not only will you be able to stay on top of basic upkeep, but you’ll be able to plan ahead for more advanced pool maintenance tasks like closing your pool, caring for it during the off season, or getting your swimming pool ready to roll when pool season returns.

Keep it Simple

Write down your pool maintenance schedule and tape it on the wall, fridge, or even somewhere near your swimming pool. If others in the household are available on certain days to do some of the simple maintenance tasks, jot down a name beside each task and share the workload.

3 Tips for Vacation Pool Maintenance

Being that most of our readers take summer vacations and own swimming pools, I figured I would share a few tips for vacation pool maintenance. I used to get asked this question a lot when I worked at the pool store. It’s not as hard as you might imagine.

1. Find a Neighbor or a Friend

This is the key to success when it comes to keeping your swimming pool clean while you’re away.

The ideal candidate is someone who owns a pool themselves. They should already know what to do. Tell your friend or neighbor to check on the pool once a day and provide them with a simple checklist, including:

• Empty the skimmer basket(s)
• Skim the surface of the pool
• Check the filter pressure (backwash if needed)
• Test the water with a test kit or test strips
• Add any necessary chemicals (only if they know what they’re doing)

2. Get A Pool Pump Timer

Hopefully, your pump already has a timer. If not, I would invest in one. They are a crucial part of proper pool care.

Set the timer to run the pool at least 8 to 12 hours a day. If you can split up the times, great! If not, it won’t be a problem for it to run 24 hours a day. Running your pump and filter is very important to keep your pool clear and it’s better to leave a timer in charge rather than a human.

3. Get Your Water Checked Before You Go

Take a sample of your pool water to your local pool store and get it professionally checked.

Make sure when you get it checked that you correct any issues before you go. You want to make sure that your pH and alkalinity are properly balanced and your sanitizers levels are correct.

• pH: 7.4 to 7.6
• Alkalinity: 100 parts per million (ppm) to 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal
• Calcium Hardness: 175 ppm to 225 ppm, or 200 ppm to 275 ppm for concrete and plaster pools
• For Chlorine Pools: 1 ppm to 3 ppm
• For Bromine Pools: 3 ppm to 5 ppm
• For Biguanide Pools: 30 ppm to 50 ppm
• For Salt Water Pools: 0.5 ppm of chlorine
• For Mineral System Pools: 0.5 ppm of chlorine

Also, make sure your pool is clean and crystal clear before you leave.

Come on In, the Water’s Fine—Thanks to You

Owning a swimming pool is one of the most rewarding ways to enjoy fun in the sun at home. Yes, it needs regular care, but that doesn’t mean you’ll spend your life shackled to a vacuum or fiddling with your chemistry set.

In fact, when you know how your pool works, understand the care it needs and plan ahead, you might find yourself taking pride in your pool care prowess. You’ll enjoy not just your swim, but the peace of mind that comes with regular and thorough pool maintenance.

Happy Swimming!

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Pool Maintenance appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to backwash a pool filter. You can watch the walkthrough video or keep reading for our complete guide.

What Is Backwashing a Pool Filter?

Whether you’ve heard the term “backwash a pool filter” or just “backwash a pool,” both are the process of reversing the flow of water in your filter to remove the buildup of contaminants.

As pool water passes through your D.E. filter or sand filter, it leaves behind dirt, oils, and other debris, which are collected in the filter medium—either D.E. powder or sand.

Over time, as water continues to pass in just one direction, the filter medium will become clogged, which will reduce your filter’s effectiveness. When you backwash a pool, you send water backward through the filter, and out the waste or drain port. This forces all the debris caught in the filter to dislodge so you can easily remove it and restore your filtration system back to its normal functioning level.

While backwashing generally works the same way regardless of the type of pool filter, the procedures do vary a bit.

How to Backwash a Sand Filter

When you learn how to backwash a sand filter, the sand never leaves the filter. Water flows backward through the filter system and out your filter’s waste port.

Before you get started, the only extra equipment you’ll need is a backwash hose.

Heavy Duty Pool Backwash and Drainage Hose with Clamp

$39.99 ($0.40 / Foot)

When backwashing your pool filter, use this easy-to-roll up and store backwash hose.

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01/27/2023 06:41 pm GMT

How to Backwash Using a Multiport Valve

• Attach the backwash hose to the waste or backwash port.
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Backwash.
• Turn the filter system back on.
• Let the water run out of the backwash port and through the backwash hose for about a minute, or until the water runs clear
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Rinse.
• Turn the filter system back on.
• Rinse the filter for about 30 seconds.
• Turn the filter system off.
• Turn the multiport valve to Filter.

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running.

Hayward S244T ProSeries Top-Mount Sand Filter - 24 in.

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How to Backwash a D.E. Filter

Before you get started, you’ll need a few supplies.

• Backwash hose
• Diatomaceous earth powder
• One-pound D.E. scoop (or empty one-pound coffee can)

Our Top Pick

Diatomaceous Earth Powder (for D.E. Filters)

Filter media for backwashing and cleaning D.E. pool filters.

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What is Diatomaceous Earth?

It’s a white powder composed of fossilized skeletons of one-celled organisms called diatoms. The powder is added to the filter and attaches itself to the grids inside creating a D.E. “cake.”

This cake, along with the filter grids inside, helps to filter out very fine particles.

How Much D.E. Powder Will You Need?

This will vary depending on the type and size of filter you have. Always refer to your owner’s manual for specific information.

In any case, D.E. powder is measured in pounds, so use a one-pound D.E. scoop to make measuring easy. In a pinch, you can also use an empty one-pound coffee can.

How to Backwash with a Multiport Valve

You’ll want to set aside a little time to do this, but don’t worry. It’s not an arduous task that’s going to take all day.

1. Turn off the filter system.
2. Connect the backwash hose to the filter’s waste port.
3. Turn the multiport valve to Backwash. If you have a push/pull valve, open the backwash gate.
4. Turn the filter system back on, and let it run for about two minutes. This will allow pool water to flow out of the backwash valve or port.
5. Turn the filter system off.
6. Turn the multiport valve to Rinse, turn the system back on, and let it run for about another minute.
7. Turn the filter system off.
8. Turn the multiport valve back to Filter.
9. Add D.E. powder to the filter.
   1. Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add.
   2. Prime the pool pump.
   3. Remove the strainer basket lid.
   4. Fill the basket with water, and allow some water to run through the incoming line.
   5. Turn on the pool pump.
   6. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.
   7. Make sure the pump is running.
   8. Pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer.
   9. Run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids.

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

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How to Backwash with a Push/Pull Valve

This procedure differs only slightly from the multiport valve process.

1. Turn off the filter system.
2. Connect the backwash hose to the filter’s backwash port.
3. Open the backwash gate.
4. Turn the filter system back on, and let it run for about three minutes. This will allow pool water to flow out of the backwash port.
5. Turn the filter system off.
6. Close the push/pull valve.
7. Add D.E. powder to the filter.
   1. Refer to your filter owner’s manual to determine how much D.E. powder you’ll need to add.
   2. Prime the pool pump.
   3. Remove the strainer basket lid.
   4. Fill the basket with water, and allow some water to run through the incoming line.
   5. Turn on the pool pump.
   6. Mix the appropriate amount of D.E powder with enough water to make a slurry, which is a thin, creamy solution.
   7. Make sure the pump is running.
   8. Pour the slurry directly into the pool skimmer.
8. Run the pool pump for at least 30 minutes to allow the D.E. to distribute evenly over the filter grids.

Pentair Quad Cartridge Style D.E. Pool Filter

$1,458.70

With four large capacity cartridges, this filter provides maximum filter surface area for greater dirt-trapping capacity and longer periods between cleanings. And its easily removable cartridge elements make maintenance fast and easy.

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01/27/2023 07:35 pm GMT

When to Backwash a Pool Filter

When you first set up your filter, whether it’s sand or D.E., take note of the pressure gauge reading. That’s your normal operating filter pressure. Over time, as the filter starts to accumulate dirt and debris, pressure will begin to build up because the water can’t flow as freely through it.

When the pressure gauge reads 10 pounds per square inch (psi) above the normal operating level, it’s time to backwash. If it reads more than 10 psi over the normal level, it’s really time to backwash.

While you could backwash before the pressure reaches the 10 psi over normal mark, we recommend waiting. Yes, your filter functions better when it’s not clogged. But before it gets to the fully clogged point, the presence of small dirt and debris actually helps your sand or D.E. filter work a little better.

Those tiny bits of debris help to catch and stop other tiny bits of debris from getting through the filter medium, and making it back into the pool water.

So, a clean filter is good. A slightly dirty filter is better. A clogged filter is bad, and needs a backwashing.

How to Dispose of Filter Backwash Water

Every time you backwash your pool filter, you could be pulling hundreds of gallons of water from your pool. Where is all that water going to go? Into your yard? The street? The creek behind your house?

None of those are good options, and in fact, may even be illegal, depending on where you live. The water that comes out of your pool is chemically treated, and can damage plant life, groundwater, and aquatic life.

Disposing of backwash water properly is essential, not just to avoid potential fines, but to keep your community and the environment safe from illness and damage.

Storm Drains

Some cities do allow pool water to be released into storm drains. But they may also require that you apply for a permit first.

You may also need to reduce or eliminate chemicals or salt levels in the water before you’re allowed to dispose of it in your community’s sewer system. Check with your local water authority.

Plumbing Cleanouts

You may be able to dispose of backwash water by directing it into one or more of your home’s plumbing cleanouts. Again, it’s best to check with your local water/sewer authority to ensure this is allowed, find out whether you need to treat the water in any way before disposing, and to obtain any necessary permits.

It’s unlikely any municipality will allow you to release pool water into a septic system. You wouldn’t want to do that anyway. Septic systems rely on the existence of active enzymes to dispose of waste. Pouring chemically treated water into the tank—especially water with chlorine in it—would likely kill those enzymes, leaving you with quite a mess.

Dry Wells

These can be a life (or property) saver if you live in an area that sees a high level of rainfall, or experiences tropical storms. They can help prevent flooding and erosion. While a dry well could work for disposing of pool water, that’s not usually its purpose.

Regardless of how many levels of gravel, sand, or other media the water may pass through, it will still end up in the ground, which means it can be a problem if you live in an area that doesn’t allow the disposal of pool water into the ground.

Aside from the issue of permission, a dry well must be constructed by a professional, and it’s a project that can easily cost thousands of dollars.

You can definitely find an easier, safer, and less expensive way to dispose of your filter backwash water. Your local water authority can help you.

Release the Kraken!

Or maybe just some dirty pool water. But keeping a kraken in your pool is all the more reason to keep the water clean. Anyway, when the time comes to backwash your pool, you’ll be ready with the right equipment and procedures.

Take comfort in knowing you’ll be able to help your filter keep your pool clean, which will also help your filter live a longer life, which can save you money. Then you’ll be able to afford that cute little kraken you’ve been wanting to adopt.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Backwash a Pool Filter The Right Way appeared first on Swim University®.

NOTE: The following products are available to buy on either Amazon and InTheSwim.com. Check both sites for availability. All the links are affiliate links which means if you click a link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. It helps us keep the lights on .

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

Click Here to Learn More

Our Favorite Pool Chemicals and Water Testing Supplies

It’s hard to practice good pool maintenance if you don’t have the tools to accomplish it. Stock up on a few essentials, and then build from there. There’s no point in owning a pool if it’s all drudgery. Having the right tools at hand will make your life a lot easier, and allow you to enjoy your pool much more.

Pool Water Testing

We cannot stress how incredibly important water testing is for your pool maintenance. It’s best to test your water at least once a week. Regular testing lets you know when you need to add chemicals to your pool to prevent nasty bacteria and algae from moving in.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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Our Top Pick

Test Strips for Pools and Hot Tubs

Tests for 7 important chemistries in seconds: Total Hardness, Total Chlorine, Total Bromine, Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid.

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Instead, stock up on test strips. They’re not quite as accurate as liquid test kits, but they’re quick and easy to use, and cover all the basic levels you need to keep track of free chlorine, total chlorine, bromine (if you use that instead of chlorine), total hardness, total alkalinity, pH and cyanuric acid.

Pool Water Balancing

You need to balance your pool water by maintaining the proper pH, Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness Levels. There are four different chemicals you need to help balance the water.

For increasing your alkalinity, you can either use our favorite Alkalinity Increaser or baking soda.

Our Top Pick

Baking Soda

Perfect for raising total alkalinity and pH in your pool along with cleaning tile and more. You'll need plenty on hand.

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Our Top Pick

Pool Alkalinity Increaser

Perfect for raising total alkalinity and pH in your pool.

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NOTE: if you want to lower your alkalinity, you can use muriatic acid.

For controlling your pool pH balance, you can use pH Increaser and pH Decreaser.

Our Top Pick

pH Decreaser for Pools

Use this chemical to lower just the pH level in your pool water.

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Our Top Pick

Soda Ash

This is the main chemical used to increase your pool's pH. So instead of using a branded version of pH Increaser, you can just use soda ash.

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Our Top Pick

pH Increaser for Pools

This is a proven way to make the water less acidic when swimming in pools. This chemical helps maintain the right level of pH.

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And finally, you need to control your calcium hardness level if you have an inground swimming pool. You can use calcium hardness increaser and it’s something you’ll only use about once per year. If you have a quick set-up pool (Intex), then you don’t need calcium hardness. Calcium hardness helps prolong the life of your pool lining whether it’s concrete, fiberglass, or vinyl.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hardness Increaser for Pools

Adding calcium hardness to your pool water will protect and extend the life of your pool walls including vinyl, fiberglass, and concrete.

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Pool Sanitizer

Our favorite sanitizer for a swimming pool is chlorine. It’s hands down the most effective and widely used one. In fact, if you have a saltwater pool, then you have a chlorine pool because your saltwater generator turns salt into chlorine.

However, if you don’t have a saltwater pool, you can add chlorine using 3″ tablets in either your skimmer basket or a chlorinator. And we recommend that you use a chlorinator (here’s our favorite one).

Our Top Pick

3-Inch Stabilized Chlorine Tablets

Stock up and save money on chlorine tablets for the season by getting the standard 3-inch stabilized chlorine pucks.

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If you want to reduce your chlorine usage by 50%, then we recommend using PoolRX. This device drops into your skimmer basket and adds minerals to your water. This allows you to keep your chlorine level between 0.5 and 1ppm instead of the normal 1 to 3ppm.

Our Top Pick

Pool RX: Reduce Chlorine Usage by 50%

$84.25

A simple device you add to your skimmer basket that supplies sanitizing minerals to your pool water so you can reduce your chlorine usage. Allowing you to only use 1ppm of chlorine.

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01/27/2023 04:21 pm GMT

If you have a smaller pool (under 10,000 gallons), then you can use granular chlorine for a hot tub.

Pool Shock

When your pool starts to smell like a hotel pool, it’s time to shock your water. Your pool actually shouldn’t smell like anything. This chemical smell means your sanitizer level is too low and is no longer doing its job.

Giving your pool a shock will bring sanitizer levels up where they need to be, kill bacteria, and ensure your water is clean. It can also help address mild cases of algae.

To accomplish all those things most effectively, choose a calcium hypochlorite or cal hypo shock. Prevent the dreaded hotel pool smell by shocking your water once a week, or at least once every other week. The more you use your pool, the more often you’ll need to shock it.

You’ll also want to shock your pool after major water level changes, pool accidents involving someone’s bowels, severe rainstorms, or when you need to kill pool invaders like algae. Here’s how to shock your swimming pool.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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If you have a smaller Intex style pool or don’t have any current water issues, you can use non-chlorine shock which only takes 15 minutes to work. Here’s our favorite non-chlorine shock.

Our Top Pick

In The Swim Chlorine-Free Oxidizing Pool Shock 24 x 1 Pound Bags

Powerful oxidizing agent that eliminates combined non-sanitizing chlorine (chloramines) and provides higher free chlorine levels. Helps eliminate algae growth as well as harmful bacteria. Ideal for use with chlorine or bromine sanitized applications, weekly maintenance, and will not affect other chemical levels

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Our Favorite Pool Cleaning Gear

This is our collection of the best pool cleaning gear that every homeowner must-have. We’ve researched and picked what we thought was the best quality gear on the market.

Telescopic Pole

Telescoping poles are versatile cleaning support tools, especially since most come with the option for interchangeable heads. This means you only need one pole to use a pool skimmer, manual vacuum, or pool brush.

Depending on the width of your pool, you won’t have to constantly walk around the deck to chase debris. You’ll also have the ability to shorten the pole for cleaning tasks that require a little less reach and more control, like vacuuming the pool steps.

Our Top Pick

Telescopic Swimming Pool Pole

Get those hard to reach places with your leaf net, vacuum, or brush. This professional-grade telescopic pole is what the pros use to clean pools thoroughly.

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Pool Skimmer (Leaf Net) and Brushes

The most used tool in pool maintenance is the skimmer/leaf net. It attaches to a telescopic pole so you can collect debris off the surface of the pool. And there are two types:

1. Leaf Net: Deep net to catch a lot of debris.
2. Skimmer: Flat net just for a quick surface skimmer.

We like using leaf net skimmers so you don’t have to keep emptying the skimmer as you clean. You can use a leaf net in one consistent motion.

Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Pool Leaf Net

It's a deep and durable leaf net pool skimmer that can collect a lot of debris all in one skimming. It also includes a lifetime guarantee. This is what the pros use!

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The other frequently used tool is a brush. And there are two types as well.

1. An algae brush has stainless steel bristles that will easily break algae’s hold on walls, steps, and wherever else it may be hiding. Important: Stainless steel algae brushes are best for concrete or gunite pools.
2. A regular nylon bristle pool brush if you have a vinyl liner to avoid damaging it.

Our Top Pick

Algae Brush with Stainless Steel Bristles

Perfect for getting rid of algae. For concrete pools only!

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Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Round Pool Brush

The wide pool brush has 360 degrees of strong bristles to clean hard-to-reach pool surfaces fast, including steps, ladders, slides, diving boards, and tough corners/crevices in every type of pool. This one-of-a-kind pool brush eliminates back and hip pains associated with one-sided brushes.

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Manual Pool Vacuum Head and Hose

Most compact vacuum cleaner heads are compact, giving you more control when you’re cleaning your pool. Sure, an automatic cleaner can save your time a muscle strain, but it might miss hard-to-reach spaces. A manual option in your pool supplies can help you spot-clean minor problem areas before they become major problem areas.

Our Top Pick

Concrete Pool Flexible Vacuum Head

Designed to clean concrete and fiberglass pools. The vacuum head has a flexible design enabling it to fit the contour of your pool and will not scratch or damage.

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Our Top Pick

Weighted Butterfly Pool Vacuum Head

The weighted triangle pool vacuum head is a great way to clean your pool. The weights on the bottom of the vacuum head help to keep it in place while vacuuming.

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Tip: To use a manual vacuum, you’ll also need a telescoping pole and a vacuum hose.

Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Pool Vacuum Hose

Made to last and designed to work with standard swimming pool vacuum head and telescopic pole for manual vacuuming. The swivel cuff end connects directly onto the vacuum head, whereas the non-swivel end connects to the skimmer. 

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Automatic Pool Cleaner

OK, so you don’t absolutely need this one as long as you have a manual vacuum. But an automatic pool cleaner can save you a lot of time and effort by helping to keep your pool clean, even when you’re not around.

Think about it. You have a rough day at work, traffic on the way home is terrible, and all you want to do when you finally get home is take a refreshing dip in your clear, clean pool. Except, while you were at work, a bunch of leaves and other stuff blew into the water, so before you can relax and enjoy your pool, you have to vacuum it. Ugh. You may as well stay inside.

But if you had an automatic cleaner zipping around the pool all day, you’d come home to clear water ready for you to dive in with no hassle at all. We think this makes it one of the most helpful pool supplies you can have in your pool care arsenal.

Our Top Pick

Dolphin E10 Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Grounds

$599.00

Designed for above ground swimming pools up to 30 feet. It takes less than 2 hours to clean your pool with built-in water filtering and scrubbing.

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01/28/2023 03:02 am GMT

Our Top Pick

Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus Robotic Pool Cleaner

Ideal for swimming pools up to 50 feet. Cleans large pools in just 2 hours. Includes dual scrubbing brushes and a built-in schedule using 3 settings: every day, every other day, or every 3rd day.

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Our Favorite Pool Accessories

Our Top Pick

Inkbird Wireless Pool Thermometer

5.0

This is hands down the best digital pool thermometer we tested. Easy to set up, quality build, and all packaged in an elegant design.

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A lot of pool stores will have a ton of supplies they say you absolutely need to get the job done. And you may find other pool supplies later on that you can’t live without. We all have our own ways of handling pool maintenance with little tweaks here and there to reach the same end goal: a clean, healthy pool.

You’ll certainly add to your stock of pool supplies as you become a more seasoned pool owner. Just make sure you have the essentials to keep your pool clean, and you’ll get a lot more enjoyment out of your investment. And isn’t that the way it should be?

Happy Swimming!

The post The Best Pool Supplies You Absolutely Need appeared first on Swim University®.

In this article, we’re talking about the latter. How they work, how to keep them clean and running properly, and how to troubleshoot them when things go wrong. Let’s dive in!

What are Pool Skimmers?

Pool skimmers are like little buckets built into the side of the pool. They hold skimmer baskets, which perform a similar function to the handheld leaf skimmer, keeping leaves and debris from entering your pump and filter.

These are usually rectangular-shaped and are placed around the pool, toward the tops of the walls. The water level usually covers about the bottom half of the skimmers.

They’re most often made of white plastic, and some have a door called a weir over the front that opens and closes according to the water level and movement.

What Do Pool Skimmers Do?

Pool skimmers are the starting point of pool circulation and act as a gateway to your pool’s filtration system.

Your pool pump sucks water into the skimmers. As the water passes through the skimmer basket, it’s cleared of larger debris that would cause a blockage if it made it all the way to your pump or filter.

It also allows the filter to do its job of pulling the smaller contaminants out so the water that makes its way back into your pool through the returns is cleaner.

The skimmer also helps keep your pump and filter in tip-top shape by ensuring the water that passes through them is clear of things that could cause major problems for that expensive equipment.

Pool Skimmers Keep The Water Surface Clean

The more people who swim, the more sunscreen, makeup, shampoo, soap, and other non-living contaminants are left in the water. To help your filter out, you can increase your skimmer basket’s effectiveness by covering it with pantyhose. The finely knit fabric will catch some of the smaller debris that would normally tax your filter.

Think putting pantyhose on your skimmer is kinda weird? We get it. Luckily for you, there’s something made exactly for that purpose: pool skimmer filter socks. They’ll do the same thing, but look more pool-like so you won’t have to answer any awkward questions from your friends.

Ultra Fine Mesh Pool Skimmer Filter Socks - 30 Pack

$11.99

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01/27/2023 03:56 pm GMT

A Place For Adding Chlorine Tablets

You could spend a little money and buy a floating chlorine dispenser. Or you could just add a few chlorine tablets directly to your skimmer basket.

The advantage here is that because water is pulled through the skimmer, it will run over the tablets, dissolving them more quickly than if they were just floating around the pool. This means a higher concentration of chlorine in your water, which translates to cleaner, more sanitary water.

NOTE: Just make sure you remove the partially dissolved tablets from the pool skimmer when your pump isn’t running to keep the highly chlorinated water from sitting in one place, possibly damaging equipment.

Better yet, invest in an automatic chlorinator. A chlorinator is the most efficient and safest way to add chlorine to your pool.

Our Top Pick

Hayward Automatic Pool Chlorinator (Inline)

This automatic chlorinator is perfect for the pool owner who hates fussing with chlorine tablets. With its dial control valve, you can easily adjust the chlorine level depending on your pool's size.

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Manual Pool Vacuuming

It’s great if you have an automatic pool cleaner, but there will be times when you’ll need to manually vacuum your pool. When that happens, you can put your pool’s circulation system to work.

Once you have your vacuum put together, you can insert the vacuum hose into the skimmer’s suction hole, or use a skimmer vacuum plate, and the water will be forced through the pool’s filter system as you vacuum, resulting in cleaner, clearer water.

Want to learn how to vacuum your pool manually? Click here.

When to Clean Your Pool Skimmer

Clean out your pool skimmer at least once a week. The basket catches all the debris that falls into your pool. The longer it sits in the pool, the higher the probability it’ll start to break up and then decay, and then you’ll have tiny, nasty bits floating around in your water.

Also, if you don’t skim debris off the water surface fast enough, the debris will sink to the bottom. This can cause staining and other water issues. So it’s important to keep debris out of your pool water at all times.

If you have a lot of trees in your backyard, if it’s been windy, you’ve had storms, or if any other condition exists that gives you a reason to believe your skimmer may fill up with debris pretty quickly, you’ll want to check it more often.

How to Clean Your Pool Skimmer

All you have to do is take the cover off the skimmer, reach in and pull the basket out, and discard whatever is in the basket. Then put it back in the skimmer, replace the cover, and you’re done.

If the basket looks dingy, or it’s caught some particularly yucky things (dead bugs, anyone?), you can give it a spray with the hose before replacing it. If you feel it needs to be cleaned further than that, a mild multi-purpose spray will do the trick.

Important: Make sure you rinse the cleaner off completely, or you may end up with foamy bubbles in your pool water, and a bigger problem than you started with.

Multi-Purpose Cleaner

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How to Unclog a Pool Skimmer Line

There are a few signs it might be clogged:

Your pool pump is pulsing or unusually loud and the pressure is low.

If water is surging or pulsing in your pump, this may be a sign of a clogged pipe. But first, you have to rule out other potential problems, like air leaks. Check the o-ring on your pump lid. Then check to see if the impeller inside your pump is clogged. Be sure the pump is off when you check this. And if you need help troubleshooting your pump, be sure to check our other videos. It may also be time to backwash or clean your filter if you haven’t done that in a while. If you have just cleaned your filter, that may have caused an air pocket to form. Remove the pump lid and basket and stick a hose inside to fill up the line with water.

Your water intake into your pump is slow even if the skimmer basket is empty.

If water is slowly coming into your pool pump, check the skimmer door to make sure it isn’t stuck. Also, make sure your pool’s water level is halfway up the skimmer. If the skimmer door and water level look good, you may have a clog in your skimmer line.

To find out which pipe is blocked, run your pool pump and check each line one at a time. You can do this by using your pool diverter valve, aka a Jandy Valve. Switch the valve between the skimmers and the main drain lines.

If one line has low pressure or your pump loses suction, that means it’s clogged with an air pocket or debris. As you test these lines, be sure to always leave one line open. You never want to run your pump with all of the intake valves closed and no water flowing.

1. Try Moving The Pool Diverter Valve Back And Forth

Opening and closing the pool diverter valve while the pump is running may dislodge whatever is blocking your skimmer line. Shimmy the diverter valve back and forth between the lines for several seconds each time.

After several rounds of opening and closing the skimmer valve, you may remove the air pocket or dislodge the debris into the pump strainer basket. As we said, be sure to always leave one line open during this process so there’s water flowing to your pump as it runs.

2. Clear The Blockage With A Drain Cleaning Bladder

Drain cleaning bladders attach to your garden hose and are then inserted into the clogged line. When the hose is turned on, the bladder expands and pushes pressurized water down the pipe.

Water-Powered Drain Cleaner Bladder

The emergency drain solution features a water pulsating valve to unclog blocked drains quickly. Clears slow and clogged drains with water power for your pool skimmer.

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First, shut off your pump completely. Make sure your diverter valve is turned to the skimmer line.
Then, remove your skimmer basket. Insert the hose with the bladder attachment into the suction hole of your skimmer. Push it in as far as it will go.

When you turn on the hose, the bladder will expand while it’s in the pipe. That pressurized water will push any debris and air to the pump.

If that doesn’t work, try using the drain cleaning bladder in the pump. Make sure the pump is still off and the diverter valve is set to the skimmer line. Remove the pump basket and insert the hose with the bladder into the pump’s intake pipe that flows back towards the pool. This will force pressurized water back into the skimmer. Keep an eye out for debris that blows back to the skimmer.

You will also want to use the bladder in the pump if you have a clog in your main drain line. Just make sure the diverter valve is turned to the main drain when you do this.

If nothing else works, it might be time to call a professional to come to unclog your lines. But don’t give up right away: it can take several rounds of diverting water or using the bladder to unclog your lines.

The Skimmer in Winter

Whether you’re closing an inground pool or winterizing an above ground pool, you won’t want to skip the skimmer prep, or you could open your pool to a bit of a mess next season.

For an inground pool, once you’ve blown out the lines, you’ll need to insert a rubber plug or an ice compensator like a Gizzmo into your skimmer to keep it closed and prevent anything from sneaking into your filtration system over the winter.

Same goes for an above ground pool, but in that case, depending on the type of skimmer you have, you may be able to just install a cover over it.

Either way, make sure you take care of your skimmer so it can keep taking care of your pool when you open it back up.

Gizzmo Skimmer Ice Compensator

$14.87

Screws into the bottom of the skimmer to absorb the expansion of winter freeze-up and is perfect for big, deep skimmers.

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01/28/2023 12:58 am GMT

Skim Your Way to a Cleaner, Healthier Pool

From keeping your pool’s circulation going, to helping clean your pool, pool skimmers are one of the most unassuming yet important parts of your swimming pool. Keep the skimmers clean and clear of debris, and half the work of keeping your pool clear is done.

Remember they also play an important role in closing your pool each winter. Skip that one little step, and you could have a big job waiting for you in the spring. Knowing just how important they are and how to care for them means your pool skimmers will do their job for you for years to come.

If you need more help maintaining your pool throughout the season, grab our FREE Pool Care Cheat Sheet. And subscribe to our YouTube channel for more pool maintenance tutorials throughout the season.

Happy Swimming!

The post Pool Skimmers 101: How to Clean and Troubleshooting Tips appeared first on Swim University®.

Even if you’re closely watching those numbers rise and fall, what exactly do they mean? How do you know when there’s a problem, and how do you fix it? It’s all a lot easier than it may seem.

What Is a Pool Filter Pressure Gauge?

Your pool filter operates under pressure, which is measured in pounds per square inch (psi). When water is flowing through it normally, the filter’s pressure is normal.

But when something interferes with water flow—either increasing or decreasing it—the pressure inside the filter will change. The only way to monitor the pressure inside the filter is with a pool filter pressure gauge.

It’s attached to the top of your filter, and looks exactly the way you’d expect it to look. It’s a small dial with numbers around the perimeter, and an indicator “hand” that moves up or down the scale to indicate whether the pressure level is too low, too high, or just right.

But how do you know what those levels are?

What Is Normal Pool Filter Pressure?

The most important thing to know is that there’s not one magic number that’s normal for all pool filters. An average range can be anywhere from 10 psi to 25 psi.

What’s “normal” for a filter will depend on a few factors such as the filter’s size, the size and strength of your pump, and how clean—or dirty—the filter is at any given time.

But you can set a baseline number to consider normal for your filter. You’ll do this when you first install the filter, the media is clean, and all your other equipment—especially the pump—is running the way it should.

Once you’ve installed the filter and turned everything on, make a note of what the pool filter pressure gauge indicates. That will be the “normal” pressure level you strive to maintain.

Take a second baseline reading after the first time you clean or change the filter media. That number and the initial number will give you a range to shoot for.

Check the pool filter pressure gauge at least once a week as part of your regular pool maintenance routine. Be sure to record the number so you can easily see if and when pressure starts to rise or drop. This will let you know something’s wrong so you can troubleshoot.

Pool Filter Pressure Too High: Troubleshooting And Fixes

When your pool filter pressure gauge starts to read higher than the normal range you established, it’s not necessarily a bad thing right off the bat. In fact, it can kind of be good.

It seems counterintuitive, but your filter is actually a little more effective when it’s dirty. Not filthy and completely clogged with dirt and debris, of course. But when it’s a little dirty, those particles of dirt, twigs, hair, and whatever else made its way into your pool can help grab even more dirty particles as they pass through the filter media.

So don’t feel you have to troubleshoot when you see the pool filter pressure gauge indicating a slight rise above normal.

Now, when the pressure in the filter gets to be 10 psi higher than your normal recorded pressure, it’s time to take action. Usually, this means you just have to clean your pool filter.

If cleaning the filter doesn’t bring the pressure level down, or the filter media is just beyond the point where cleaning will make a difference, it may be time to replace the media altogether.

Use the Air Relief Valve

The pool filter pressure gauge has a little buddy to help keep pressure levels steady and where they should be—an air relief valve.

The gauge may indicate high pressure due to air in the circulation system. This could happen if your pool’s water level is too low. It should be at about the midpoint of the skimmer.

Or maybe you turned the pool off while you were on vacation, or even just to clean it. When you start things back up, you may discover air in the system.

When water begins to flow through the system, it competes with air for space, which forces the air through the system. Left too long, it can damage your equipment, especially the pump which must contain water to function properly.

When you use the air relief valve to release the air from the system, the water can once again fill the plumbing the way it’s supposed to, your equipment will be safe, and the pool filter pressure gauge should go back down.

Pool Filter Pressure Too Low: Troubleshooting And Fixes

If the pool filter pressure gauge reads at least 5 psi lower than normal, it means water isn’t reaching the filter quickly enough, and you have a couple of possible problems to take care of.

The most common cause is a blockage located somewhere before the filter. Check the skimmers, pump basket, pump impeller, and drain covers for any debris that could be blocking circulation.

The less common and more serious cause for a low pool filter pressure gauge reading is a pool leak somewhere in the system, most likely the pool pump. Examine the pump carefully for any indications of a leak. If the pump is the problem, you have three options:

• Repair it yourself.
• Hire a pro to repair it.
• Replace the pump (if it’s beyond repair).

If nothing you try to either raise or lower the filter pressure is working, you have another option available to you.

Check the Pool Filter Pressure Gauge

Is the pool filter clean? No blockages anywhere? Everything running the way it should, but the pressure gauge still says something’s wrong? It might be a problem with the gauge itself.

Just like any other piece of equipment, the pool filter pressure gauge won’t last forever. It may be damaged somehow, or it could just wear out over time.

The good thing is, it’s not an expensive device. You can expect to spend less than $20 to replace the gauge.

Pool Filter Pressure Gauge with Backwash Indicator and High Relief Valve

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Under Pressure

While a pool filter pressure gauge is a small part of a large system, it plays a vital role to the overall health of your pool. Remember to check it weekly, and when you see the numbers moving too far in either direction, address it immediately. Otherwise, you could end up with damaged equipment and expensive repairs or replacement down the road.

Happy Swimming!

The post Understanding Your Pool Filter Pressure Gauge appeared first on Swim University®.

1. Store Your Vacuum Head Correctly

The number one reason you may have to replace your vacuum head is because the brushes on the bottom of it have either flattened out or completely fallen off.

Store your vacuum head upside down and out of the sun. Over the winter, be sure you keep it away from any chlorine. If you do this, you will double the life of your vacuum head, which can be expensive to replace.

Our Top Pick

Concrete Pool Flexible Vacuum Head

Designed to clean concrete and fiberglass pools. The vacuum head has a flexible design enabling it to fit the contour of your pool and will not scratch or damage.

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2. Close Your Above Ground Pool Yourself

It can cost hundreds of dollars to close your above ground pool. Of course, that depends on how big your pool is. The best thing you can do is learn how to winterize your above ground pool yourself.

1. Add closing chemicals to the water
2. Drain your pool 6 to 8 inches below the skimmer
3. Remove the hoses from your pool filter and pump
4. Remove all the drain plugs from your pump and filter and store them in the pump basket
5. Store your pump and filter in a safe place (unless you have a sand filter)
6. Install a winter plug in the return line
7. Blow up the pool cover air pillow and float it to the middle of the pool. You can use something called the Pool Pillow Pal to keep it centered
8. Drape the cover over the pool and secure it using cable and winch and/or winter cover clips
9. Add water bags to deck to hold cover in place

That’s it! It’s very simple and doesn’t require any special technique.

Pool Winterizing and Closing Chemical Kit

This winterizing and closing chemical kit is designed to save you time and money by including all the necessary chemicals to close your pool. This kit includes winter algaecide, stain prevention, chlorine-free shock, an absorbing sponge, and a pool floater.

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3. Use a Solar Cover With Your Pool Heater

Solar covers, also called solar blankets, maintain the heat in the pool, they keep debris out, and they help attract heat from the sun. If you use a solar pool cover only at night, it helps to keep the heat from escaping your pool.

If you have a heater, you can crank the heater up to the desired temperature, shut it off, then keep a solar cover on at night. It’ll make the heat from your heater last longer in your pool water.

Read more about using solar pool covers to heat your pool and save money.

Bonus: If you don’t feel like taking a solar cover on and off your pool every night, consider liquid solar covers. They’re easier to use and cost much less in the short term.

Our Pick

Clear Solar Blanket for Inground and Above Ground Pools (14-Mil)

$136.77

This solar blanket will increase the water temperature by about 15 degrees and prevent up to 95% of pool water and chemical evaporation. This reduction of evaporation is environmentally friendly, save you time, and money. Comes with a 6-year manufacturer warranty.

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01/27/2023 08:38 pm GMT

4. Use Baking Soda to Raise Alkalinity

Baking soda will increase your pool’s alkalinity levels. But is it really less expensive? It depends on what type of alkalinity increaser you normally buy, but it’s likely the answer is yes. Use baking soda in your pool if you need to bump up the alkalinity just a little.

Our Top Pick

Baking Soda

Perfect for raising total alkalinity and pH in your pool along with cleaning tile and more. You'll need plenty on hand.

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Note: Be aware that baking soda is a little more powdery than standard alkalinity increaser. This may cause your pool cloud up. Just small amounts to avoid cloudiness.

5. Keep Your Pool Cover Clean During The Winter

When opened in the spring, your pool may look like the black lagoon. There’s a better way than letting that happen, and then dumping a ton of chemicals in the water just to clear it.

Throughout the winter, use a pool cover pump to get the water off the top of your cover. Every time it rains or the snow melts, tend to your pool and get that water off the cover.

Our Top Pick

WAYNE Automatic Pool Cover Pump (1/4 HP)

$182.33

Set it and forget it! The built-in iSwitch technology turns the pump on and off by sensing the presence of water and includes automatic freeze protection to prevent damage during the winter.

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01/27/2023 11:38 pm GMT

When the cover is dry, use a broom and get as many leaves and debris off the top of your cover as you can.

Come spring time you will thank yourself for keeping a clean cover. It will be much easier to remove and you’ll be able to re-use your cover for the next winter. No one wants to buy a new pool cover every single year. It can get very expensive.

6. Run Your Pump Less In Mild Climates

During the hottest part of the summer, run your pump 10 to 12 hours a day. You need to keep that water clean and moving so you don’t run into any problems, such as algae growth.

Algae loves warm water. This is why you’re able to get away with running your filter less if you live in a mild climate.

You can either run your pump just 6 hours a day or invest in a variable-speed pump that uses less energy.

Our Top Pick

Hayward MaxFlo Variable-Speed Pool Pump

$1,319.00

This pool pump can save you up to 80% on energy costs and is incredibly quiet thanks to the permanent magnet, totally enclosed fan-cooled (TEFC) motor. Simple drop-in upgrade that can operate in standalone mode or connect to any automation system.

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01/27/2023 06:09 pm GMT

7. Buy Pool Chemicals Early and in Bulk

Smaller pool stores generally run spring startup specials to entice you to get in the door early to get a jumpstart on pool season. It’s a good move, especially if they have some leftover chemicals from last year they are trying to get rid of to make room for the new shipment of chemicals.

Also, buy pool chemicals in bulk at the beginning of the season, whether they’re on sale or not. This is especially true for chlorine (or whichever sanitizer you use) and shock since you’ll be using these chemicals frequently all summer.

In The Swim Cal-Hypo Unstabilized Pool Chlorine Granules - 50 lbs.

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8. Run Your Pool Pump At Night

The peak hours for most electric companies are from 7:00am to 7:00pm during the week. This is when it costs the most money to use electricity.

To save some green, run your pump during off-peak hours.

9. Shock Your Swimming Pool Every Week

Let’s say it’s the middle of the summer and you’ve been good at shocking your pool every week. Your pool has been crystal clear all summer long. You’ve been testing your water regularly and everything is going perfectly!

Then, you decide you’ve been so good that you’ll skip a week taking care of it. Remember, now it’s hot and your kids have been swimming in it. All of a sudden your pool turns green and/or cloudy.

Now instead of following your normal routine and shocking it once a week, you are forced to triple shock it this week to get rid of the green. And you have to run your filter system 24/7 to help clear up the cloudy water. You’ve just spent a lot of extra money pumping more shock into your water and running the filter longer.

Shocking your pool every week helps maintain a healthy and clear pool, and saves you money.

10. Use A Robotic Pool Cleaner

These self-contained, electric units can clean an entire swimming pool faster than you. Robotic pool cleaners drive around the pool on their own, climbing up walls and stairs and collecting all kinds of debris in their fine mesh filter bags.

These filter bags also filter the water, so if you run the robotic cleaner while the filter and pump aren’t running, you’re actually saving money while keeping your pool clean. It costs much less to run a small pool cleaner than it does to run your filtration system.

11. Keep an Eye on the Chlorine Stabilizer Level

Chlorine stabilizer, also called cyanuric acid is a chemical that prevents the sun from eating up the chlorine you put in your pool. When you add chlorine to your pool via shock or chlorine tablets, the chlorine is unstabilized (for the most part). This means it doesn’t last very long in the water to fight bacteria and other harmful contaminants.

When you add chlorine stabilizer to your water, it will help keep that chlorine in your water longer to fight what it needs to kill to keep your water sanitized.

Our Top Pick

Cyanuric Acid (Chlorine Stabilizer) for Pools

Keep your chlorine from being burned off too quickly by the sun's UV rays. CYA will help you keep a better chlorine reading in your pool.

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12. Conserve Pool Water

Water isn’t free, nor is there an infinite supply of it in the world, especially as droughts become increasingly common and severe. While you may live in places where a simple turn of the tap releases a seemingly limitless flow of water, it’s worth conserving as much water—and money—as possible.

The average pool wastes water in four ways:

• evaporation
• leaks
• splashout
• filter backwashing

While the water wasted at any given moment may be small and seemingly insignificant, it can add up to thousands of wasted gallons, which can translate to hundreds of wasted dollars.

Limit Evaporation

Evaporation is the silent, invisible water waster that plagues every pool owner, but more so in some areas of the nation than others. An uncovered 18’ by 36’ pool loses about an inch of water a week, or 7,000 gallons annually. In places with particularly hot and dry climates, an average pool can lose up to 25,000 gallons a year to evaporation.

To fight evaporation, make sure your pool is covered when not in use. A simple solar cover between swims is all that’s needed to save precious gallons. If you use a pool heater, keep it set as low as possible.

Lastly, any wind-blocking objects that can be erected around the pool will cut down on evaporation, which can be accelerated by wind moving across the water’s surface. Shrubbery, fences, or boulders can serve double duty in both fighting evaporation and blocking debris.

Our Top Pick

Hayward Universal H-Series Pool and Spa Heater (Natural Gas)

This heater is super reliable and long-lasting. The cupro nickel heat exchanger protects against corrosion caused by unbalanced water chemistry. And it provides major energy savings with low NOx emissions to meet air quality standards.

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Find and Fix Leaks

It’s estimated that somewhere around 30% of pools have leaks. Most of them are small and minor, but every drop that drips out is one that has to be replaced from the spigot.

To check for a pool leak, make a grease pencil mark on the water level at the skimmer. If the level drops significantly in 24 hours, there is likely a leak.

Use a link finder dye to locate the leak so you can fix it. If you’re not comfortable fixing it yourself, you can always hire a pro.

Leakmaster Pre-Filled Leak Finder Dye

This pre-filled dye tester helps you find the precise location of structural pool leaks. Simply squirt the syringe into the water close to the potential problem area and the dye will flow towards the source of a leak.

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Minimize Splashout

Admittedly, splashing is usually the result of friends and family having a good time in the pool. You can argue that fun and games are the whole point to pool ownership and therefore splashing is to be expected. However, unnecessary or avoidable splash is worth preventing.

First, any pool game in which the object is to splash water out of the pool should be avoided. Children invariably come up with games like this, so be on the lookout.

When using fountains or waterfalls, be mindful of any excessive splash that they might cause, and turn them off when the pool isn’t in use.

Finally, maintain a water level low enough that normal activity doesn’t consistently send water welling up over the sides to be wasted.

Don’t Backwash Your Filter Too Long or Too Often

The average two-minute backwash for a typical sand filter costs you about 200 gallons of water. That’s not to say you shouldn’t backwash, just that it’s absolutely necessary to learn how to backwash a pool filter properly.

First, never backwash for longer than necessary. The moment the water runs clear in the sight glass, stop. Also, decrease the frequency of backwashing by maintaining a clean pool and filter system. The more dirt you force through the filter, the more frequently you’ll have to backwash. Conscientious maintenance is the key.

If you follow these money-saving swimming pool tips, you’ll save water and money, one drop at a time.

Happy Swimming!

The post 12 Money-Saving Swimming Pool Tips appeared first on Swim University®.

But if you don’t have the room in your yard, or the gold coins in your McDuck vault, for a traditional swimming pool, Intex pools offer a budget- and space-friendly alternative. Want a pool that’s easy to set up in the spring and then store when summer ends? Explore pool ownership without a life-changing commitment.

Intex Pools vs. Traditional Pools

Compared to inground or above ground models, Intex pools require less investment and zero construction. Options range from basic inflatables to steel-framed models you can convert to a permanent part of your yard. They often include a ground cover and debris cover.

Intex pools often include cartridge filters and pumps as well, which makes it easy to get swimming sooner. The filter pump’s capacity varies with the pool size you choose. Intex pumps also have a built-in ground fault circuit interrupter that automatically shuts down the pump if any electrical current is exposed to water.

Intex 28633EG Krystal Clear Cartridge Filter Pump for Above Ground Pools - 2500 GPH Pump Flow Rate - 110-120V with GFCI

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Types of Intex Pools

The shared foundation of these above ground pools is a liner made of triple-ply polymer. More elaborate versions add a frame to improve durability.

You can choose from several different sizes and styles, depending on your needs.

Easy Set Intex Pools (Inflatable)

The smallest and most basic model lets you blow up some fun without blowing your space or investment budget. You can inflate the top ring, fill the pool, and get swimming as soon as your water’s balanced.

Easy Set pools are round and range from 8 ft. (2.4 m) to 18 ft. (5.6 m) in circumference and 30 in. (76 cm) to 48 in. (122 cm) in height.

Intex Easy Set Pool Set with Filter Pump, Ladder, Ground Cloth & Pool Cover - 15 ft. x 48 in.

$529.99

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01/27/2023 11:14 pm GMT

Metal Frame Intex Pools

More durable than Easy Set model, this circular pool boasts a strong frame of powder-coated steel to resist rust and weathering. It also sports a band of reinforced polymer material that circles the whole pool like a girdle for extra support—something we wish we could get when swimsuit season rolls around.

Metal frame Intex pools have an 18 ft. (5.6 m) circumference and stand 48 in. (122 cm) high.

Intex Metal Frame Pool Set with Filter Pump, Ladder, Ground Cloth, and Pool Cover - 18 ft. x 48 in.

$784.53

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01/27/2023 10:59 pm GMT

Oval Frame Intex Pools

A slightly different take on the traditional rectangular pool, these babies straddle the line between the Easy Set’s convenience and the durability of higher-end Intex pools. The elongated shape fits into narrow backyards that might not otherwise accommodate a pool.

This model also makes a perfect lap pool if one of your crew has Olympic aspirations or their eye on crossing the English channel, wot wot.

Oval Frame Intex Pools are available in two sizes:

18 ft. (5.6 m) long by 10 ft. (3 m) wide by 42 in. (107 cm) high

20 ft. (6.1 m) long by 12 ft. (3.7 m) wide by 48 in. (122 cm) high

Instead of all-around legs, these pools use a snap-on frame that provides support where it’s needed most without taking up extra space.

Intex Oval Frame Pool Set with Filter Pump, Ladder, Ground Cloth and Pool Cover - 18 ft. x 10 ft. x 42 in.

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Ultra Frame^® Intex Pools

Boasting a larger footprint, the cream of the Intex crop has upgraded materials and aesthetics that more than justify their somewhat higher price tag. Their powder-coated steel frames are rust resistant and extremely strong, and the extra-durable three-ply liner and exterior band feature an upscale grey and white color scheme.

Round Frame Ultra Intex Pools range from 14 ft. (4.3 m) to 16 ft. (4.9 m) in circumference and from 42 in. (107 cm) to 48 in. (122 cm.) high.

Rectangular Frame Ultra Intex Pools are available in 18 ft. (4.9 m) long by 9 ft. (2.7 m) wide by 52 in. (132 cm) high, or32 ft. (9.8 m) long by 16 ft. (4.9 m) wide by 52 in. (132 cm) high.

These pools often include a cartridge filter pump, but you can spend a bit more to get a model with a sand filter pump instead.

Prism Frame Intex Pools

Nab the perks of the most luxurious Intex pools—in a more compact package. You can get a sharp-looking showstopper without buying more pool than you need.

Like their bigger cousins, these models have a powder-coated steel frame that’s designed to fit together without bulky extra pins. They also have the premium color scheme.

Round Frame Prism Intex Pools range from 10 ft. (3 m) to 24 ft. (7.3 m) in circumference and from 30 in. (76 cm) to 52 in. (132 cm) high.

Rectangular Frame Prism Intex Pools are 16 ft. (4.9 m) long by 8 ft. (2.4 m) wide by 48 in. (122 cm) high. They have an enhanced, full-body version of the frame used on Oval Frame Intex Pools.

Square Frame Prism Intex Pools range from 14 ft. (4.3 m) to 16 ft. (4.9 m) in circumference and from 42 in. (107 cm) to 48 in. (122 cm) high.

How to Care for Your Intex Pool

Don’t let the convenience or its potentially temporary installation fool you. Intex pools have all the same needs as the fanciest rooftop retreat or humblest suburban “cement pond.” Regular maintenance keeps Intex pools in prime condition.

Your new backyard oasis needs a pump, filter, and a few tools to keep it clean and running smoothly. A little homework might be required to master regular maintenance and the right mix of chemicals to keep the water clean and sanitary. You can also choose whether to clean and store your pool during the off season, or let it winter in place.

Start with the Basics

Before you dive in, take some time to get to know your Intex pool. Figure out how and when you’ll be lavishing all this tender lovin’ care on your new pool. If you’re a new pool owner, familiarize yourself with the “three Ts” of pool ownership: Tools, Techniques, and Terminology.

You don’t have to enroll in a night class at the learning annex, but developing a solid understanding of what your pool needs is the first step to enjoying it safely. Plus, you won’t have to listen to your weird neighbor making fun of you for wearing the skimmer as a hat.

Stock Up

If you don’t already have them, stock up on pool care tools, including:

• telescoping pole
• skimmer
• pool vacuum
• nylon-bristled pool brush
• extra hoses
• test strips or a water testing kit
• adequate supplies of:
  • chlorine or your preferred sanitizer
  • regular pool shock or non-chlorine pool shock
  • any other chemicals needed to keep your water balanced

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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Get on a Schedule

Knowing what to do and how to do it leads to knowing when to do it. Set up a pool maintenance schedule for the season or, if you plan on making your Intex pool a permanent fixture, the full year.

Planning ahead can help you budget the time and money you invest in your pool so you can avoid nasty surprises and prepare for larger expenditures of both when needed.

Balance Your Water

Any pool with unbalanced or unsanitary water is a pool nobody can enjoy. It’s gross, might be hard to look at, and can even make you sick. Understanding basic pool chemistry is critical to safe, happy swimming.

Monitoring and adjusting pH and alkalinity levels is just as important with Intex pools as any others. Pay attention to your water hardness and sanitizer levels too, but the foundation of healthy pool water is balanced pH and alkalinity, because balanced water helps your pool sanitizer do its job more effectively.

Before you swim, grab your water testing kit and test your pool water. Take a look at your pH levels. The ideal pH range for a swimming pool is 7.4 to 7.6.

Aim for an alkalinity level of 100–150 parts per million (ppm). Alkalinity protects your pool from wild changes in pH by buffering it against sudden shifts.

If your pH is too low, your water is acidic. Add a base, like sodium bicarbonate (a.k.a baking soda), to your water to raise the pH. If your water’s pH is too high, or basic, add an acid such as sodium bisulfate, also known as dry acid or pH decreaser, to lower it.

Keep in mind that adding an alkalinity increaser will also raise your water’s pH, so be sure to monitor all levels carefully. Here’s more information on using baking soda to raise your pool’s alkalinity and pH.

Our Top Pick

Baking Soda

Perfect for raising total alkalinity and pH in your pool along with cleaning tile and more. You'll need plenty on hand.

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Make testing your water part of your daily pool care routine, and it’ll be easy to keep your water where it needs to be—and nip any potential problems in the bud.

Our Top Pick

pH Decreaser for Pools

Use this chemical to lower just the pH level in your pool water.

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How to Shock Your Intex Pool

Under normal conditions and for optimal sanitizing, the chlorine levels in your pool will be in the range of 1–3 ppm. But as chlorine in the water hammers away at contaminants and gets bound up with them, you need a way to recharge it. Regular doses of pool shock are the answer.

Shocking your pool breaks the bonds between your pool’s chlorine and the contaminants it’s attached itself to, freeing it to sanitize once more. Shocking your pool kills off bacteria and algae that might otherwise be setting up shop.

How often you shock depends on how often you use your pool, and the climate you’re living in. We recommend shocking Intex pools every week, especially if you’re having a heat wave or heavy rains. Heat and excess water can knock your chlorine levels to sub-par levels pretty quickly.

Use a pool shock with a decent amount of available chlorine, and run your filtration system after you shock your pool. The water might appear cloudy after you shock, but will clear as it’s filtered.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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The Importance of Proper Filtration

You can think of your filtration system as your pool’s kidneys. If they don’t get a chance to work, all sorts of icky things can build up in a flash. Your filter pump circulates the water, evenly distributing sanitizer and other chemicals while cleaning the water.

Run your filter pump for at least 12 hours a day, every day. This will make sure all the water in your pool circulates at least once. In an ideal world of bottomless money vaults, you could run your pool pump 24 hours a day, but 12 hours is a good compromise.

Replace the cartridge filter at least once a year, or when you open and close it if you store your pool during the off season. Also replace it when it’s worn, torn, or as recommended by the manufacturer to make sure your water is as clean as it can be.

How to Clean Your Intex Pool

People. Debris. Rain. Critters. It might seem like everyone, and everything, wants to take a dip in your pool. And while you’ve probably invited at least some of them to join you for a dip, they bring with them assorted bits and bobs that can ruin your swim.

Leaves, sand, dirt, and other visible debris are not only unsightly, but can clog your filter system and throw your water chemistry out of whack.

The same is true for the lotions and potions swimmers can bring into the water, from soap and perfume to sweat, dead skin, and, er, other bodily fluids.

Just like you, your pool’s at its best with a regular daily cleaning. Our motto is simple. On the whole, cleaning the pool is good for the soul. Or at least the pool.

Use a skimmer to remove visible debris every day. If your pool isn’t seeing much use, or you somehow have the one pool on earth that doesn’t attract leaves from five counties away, you can probably get away with brushing and vacuuming every other day. But if it’s party central for you and the trees, brush and vacuum daily.

Make sure you use a pool brush with nylon bristles only. The vinyl liner needs a gentle touch and might tear or scratch if you use a stainless steel pool brush.

Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Round Pool Brush

The wide pool brush has 360 degrees of strong bristles to clean hard-to-reach pool surfaces fast, including steps, ladders, slides, diving boards, and tough corners/crevices in every type of pool. This one-of-a-kind pool brush eliminates back and hip pains associated with one-sided brushes.

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Intex makes a filter-line vacuum unit that’s designed for their pools. Simply attach it to your system, and you’ll be ready to suck away sediment and other debris.

If don’t want to futz around with attaching the cleaner to your pool, make things a little easier with a rechargeable manual vacuum. It uses internal power instead of your pool’s filter system to clean. Push it along the bottom and the debris gets sucked up into a filter bag inside the cleaner. It’s a Dustbuster for your pool, without the ’70s haircut.

Intex Handheld Rechargeable Spa and Pool Vacuum

This vacuum's rechargeable batteries provide ongoing, powerful suction capability. Suitable for use with most hot tubs and above-ground pools up to 18 feet in diameter.

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Robotic Pool Cleaners

We love above ground automatic pool cleaners for saving us a lot of manual scrubbing and skimming. You probably will, too.

Small robotic pool cleaners work well with all Intex pools, except the Easy Set. Robotic pool cleaners and inflatable pools do not compute.

Vinyl walls make side-suction automatic pool cleaners a poor fit for Intex pools, so stick to manual cleaning if you’re not ready to splurge on an aquatic assistant.

Just remember, no robot can replace a human, at least until SkyNet goes live. Cleaning gives you a chance to keep an eye out for frogs and birds, as well as algae, mold, mysterious stains, and other problems waiting to happen. Even if you use a robotic cleaner, make sure to give your pool a thorough once-over daily.

Our Top Pick

Dolphin E10 Automatic Robotic Pool Cleaner for Above Grounds

$599.00

Designed for above ground swimming pools up to 30 feet. It takes less than 2 hours to clean your pool with built-in water filtering and scrubbing.

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01/28/2023 03:02 am GMT

Troubleshooting Your Intex Pool

Given its simple design and DIY construction, your Intex pool probably won’t have some of the more advanced problems you might encounter with other pools. Alas, no pool’s perfect, and you might find yourself with a torn liner, a malfunctioning filter pump, or a broken support pole, to name a few examples.

Some problems, like Bermuda grass growing up and into your pool (and threatening to rupture it) have simple solutions, like a good herbicide and a ground cover mat. More advanced issues, like a sneaky pool leak or a misbehaving filter, might require some research and a little DIY repair work for you or the person you’ve bribed with ice-cold beverages to help.

You can also go right to the source and ask the horse, so to speak. Intex has an extensive library of support videos and documents for its products, giving you specific and useful information with just a few clicks. They can also help you with warranty issues, parts, and upgrades.

Stashing Versus Winterizing

Owning an Intex pool means that, at pool season’s end, you’ll have a choice other pool owners don’t necessarily have: do you clean, dismantle, and store your pool? Or do you winterize your Intex pool in place?

Freezing temperatures can cause serious damage to your Intex pool. If you need the space, don’t want to deal with winterizing, or live in an area where winter temperatures dip below freezing, stashing your pool is easy:

1. Remove all toys, floats, accessories, etc. from the pool.
2. Clean the pool thoroughly.
3. Drain the pool completely.
4. Allow the pool to dry completely.
5. Disassemble the pool.
6. Apply cornstarch liberally to the liner to prevent sticking and absorb any trace amounts of remaining water
7. Roll the pool liner to prevent creases.
8. Place the filter, manual, and any small parts into a single box to keep them together.
9. Store the dry pool components indoors until needed

If winter doesn’t get too gnarly where you live, you can winterize your pool in place:

1. Remove all toys, floats, accessories etc. from your pool.
2. Clean and balance pool water. If you have an Easy Set Pool, double-check that the top ring is fully inflated.
3. Replace strainer grid if necessary.
4. Clean and completely dry all pool accessories before storage.
5. For 10 ft. (3 m) and 12 ft. (3.7 m) pools, insert the Inlet and Outlet plug into the fitting from inside of the pool, using the provided plug.
6. For 15 ft. (4.6 m), 18 ft. (5.5 m), and 24 ft. (7.3 m) pools, close the Inlet and Outlet Plunger Valve.
7. If your pool has a ladder, remove it, let it dry completely, and store it in a safe place.
8. Disconnect the pump and filter from the pool.
9. Add appropriate winter chemicals, as suggested by your local pool dealer.
10. Install the Intex pool cover. note:Keep in mind that the standard Intex pool cover is not a safety cover. Take appropriate precautions to keep people and creatures away from, and out of, your pool.
11. Clean and drain the pump, filter housing, and hoses.
12. Remove and discard the used filter cartridge. Make sure you have a spare on hand for next season.
13. Store the pump and filter parts indoors in a dry, safe, and preferably heated place.

Intex 12' Frame Set Pool Cover

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Customizing Your Intex Pool

Who wants to be a cookie cutter? Don’t just toss an inflatable castle into the water and declare yourself Lord Fancypants, King of Summer. You can improve performance and make caring for your pool easier with a few strategic additions and modifications.

Embrace the Three Cs

The Three Ts got you started down the path to Intex Pool mastery. But to get better performance from your pool and save money while you do it, make the Three Cs part of your pool care routine.

The first and most important C is circulation. It’s the key to the other Cs: cleaning and chemicals. The better your pool’s water circulation, the less cleaning you’ll do, and the fewer chemicals you need. Control the first C, and you’ll conquer the other two.

Your pool’s return jet circulates water, but it only flows in one direction. Modifying your return jet with a circulation enhancer creates a 360° mini-maelstrom of rushing water.

It’s especially useful if your Intex pool has a heater or a salt system, since the improved flow mixes the heated or treated water throughout your entire pool more effectively.

Warm Up to Solar Pool Heating

Installing a gas heater on your Intex pool would probably lead to some pretty epic Wicked Witch of the West-style melting action, but vinyl-based psychological trauma doesn’t really play well on a sunny summer afternoon. Instead, harness the sun’s power to heat your pool water with an Intex solar pool cover.

Using this cover warms your your water during the day, and helps your pool maintain that heat even after the sun sets. Upgrade your standard cover to the solar model designed for your pool and get cookin’.

If you’re not interested in a physical cover, you can try one of the liquid solar covers on the market. Just pour it on once a month to help conserve water while gently, and safely, heating your Intex pool.

Want more power? Rev things up with a solar mat from Intex. Attach it to your pool’s filter line, and water will travel through its serpentine tubes, warming as the sun blasts the pitch-black mat. Every cycle warms your pool a little more.

Use an Intex solar pool cover with the solar mat for a killer combo. The solar mat brings the heat, and the cover seals it in like Tupperware. Well, if Tupperware harnessed THE MIGHTY POWER OF THE SUN, that is.

Upgrade to an Intex Salt System

Why settle for a pool when you can rule your own tiny sanitized sea? Stop adding chlorine to your pool and convert your Intex pool with a salt generator system.

The Intex saltwater system is a two-stage mechanism that pulls the salt’s chlorine out in the first stage, and then creates powerful, pool-sanitizing oxidizers from salt water in the second.

With this system installed, you add salt to your pool instead of chlorine. The salty water then runs through the generator, producing a steady flow of chlorinated water. The second stage, called electrocatalytic oxidation, pulls compounds out of the water that work in concert with the chlorine to kill bacteria and algae. Poseidon himself would be hard pressed to do a better job.

Upgrade Your Intex Pool Filter Cartridge

The standard filter cartridge that comes with your Intex pool is perfectly functional. But you might see improved performance with an after-market filter cartridge.

These filters may have a longer functional life, with improved filtration materials that allow you to change your filter less frequently during the season due to wear and tear.

Consider Yourself an Intex Pool Insider

Look at you, balancing beauty, price, and performance with versatility. You’ve unlocked the secrets of Intex pool ownership and customization. Forget the backhoes and the budget-busters. You’re ready to turn your backyard into a white-hot supernova of DIY swimming fun.

You’ve got everything you need to choose, maintain, and enjoy your Intex pool this season—and in the years ahead. Come on in—the water’s fine.

Happy Swimming!

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