Why Do I Have a Green Swimming Pool?

There’s only one reason: pool algae. If it’s light green, the algae probably just started to take hold. But a deeper green means a bigger algae bloom problem.

Green algae growth happens when your sanitizer or chlorine levels are too low.  But before we dive in, if you want to stop your pool from turning green ever again, invest in our pool care video course. You’ll learn how to keep your pool maintenance and water chemistry in check so you never have to fight a green pool ever again.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

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How to Fix Green Pool Water Fast

Here’s our 5-step process for killing algae and clearing a swimming pool in less than a week. Make sure you follow every step to make sure you’re efficient as possible.

1. Brush the Pool Walls and Floor

Attach a pool brush to your telescopic pole and scrub the pool walls, floor, steps, and any other surface the algae may be clinging to. The goal is to get the algae floating in suspension in your pool water giving the chlorine a better chance to kill it.

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If you have a concrete pool, it’s best to use an algae brush for this task. Algae is tough, and will stubbornly cling to the pool’s surfaces, so a heavy-duty brush works better than soft nylon bristles to remove it.

2. Test The Alkalinity and pH Level

Using test strips or a liquid test kit, test the pH and alkalinity levels. Note the levels:

• The pH level should be between 7.4 and 7.6. It’s okay if it’s a bit lower since you’ll be shocking the water later which will raise the pH.
• The alkalinity level should be between 100 and 150 ppm (parts per million). Again, it’s okay if it’s a bit on the lower end.

If your pH and alkalinity are too high, bring them down at this stage. Start by adjusting your alkalinity (here’s our chemistry guide) and testing your water again to make sure you’re in the right range. Hopefully, by adjusting the alkalinity, it’ll put your pH in the right range too. But if not, adjust the pH as well (here’s our guide).

Note: Adjusting your pH and alkalinity at this stage will ensure the shock treatment will be as effective as possible. Having low or high levels may not help kill the algae. Also, testing the water could be the first step before brushing. If you’d rather test, then brush, go for it. It won’t affect the algae killing process.

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Test Strips for Pools and Hot Tubs

Tests for 7 important chemistries in seconds: Total Hardness, Total Chlorine, Total Bromine, Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid.

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3. Shock Your Pool with Chlorine to Kill Algae

This is the main event in clearing a green pool—killing the algae. Pool shock contains a high level of chlorine that will kill the algae and sanitize the pool. For the best results, use a shock that contains at least 70% available chlorine (calcium hypochlorite).

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Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Important: Even if you usually use non-chlorine shock, you must use chlorine shock to kill algae. And keep in mind it’s best to shock at night!

How much shock do you need to kill the algae in your pool? It depends on the color.

One pound (1 lb or 0.45 kg) of shock treats 10,000 gallons (37,854 L) of pool water. That’s a normal shock treatment if your pool wasn’t green. But since it is and depending on how much algae is in the water (see color chart above), you need to double, triple, or quadruple the dosage.

For example, if you have a 20,000-gallon (75,708 L) pool, and your water was dark green, you’d need 6 bags of shock. That’s a triple dose.

If you need more information on how to shock your pool the right way, here’s our pool shock guide, and the video below .

4. Run Your Pool Filter for 8 Hours (And Shock Again If Needed)

After you shock at night, your should run your filter system for at least 8 hours overnight. Even better, you should run your filter 24 hours a day until your pool is completely clear. This will help clear your pool faster.

Important: Make sure you backwash your filtration system when needed. If you need more help on when and how to backwash your sand, D.E., or cartridge filter, you can read our full guide here.

If the pool is still green or teal in the morning, hit it again with the same amount of shock the following night. And by the next morning, it should be cloudy blue. That’s the goal!

If your pool is cloudy blue, then you successfully killed all the algae in the water. Now you can use a pool clarifier if you want to clear it more quickly, but even if you do, be sure to run the filter for at least 24 hours to get the dead algae out of the water, and ensure the shock has fully dissipated.

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Clears cloudy pool water by combining particles making it easier for your filter to remove. Let your filter do all the work! This fast-acting formula improves filter efficiency for the more effective removal of dead algae and organic debris. Apply clarifier directly to the pool. Great for all pools including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, vinyl liner, and fiberglass. It's also compatible with salt water, mineral, ozone, and non-chlorine pool water. 

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5. More Water Testing and Adjust Pool Chemicals

When your green pool isn’t green anymore and you have cloudy blue or clear water, test it again. This time test for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and your chlorine levels. Add chemicals as needed to balance things out.

Test it again to make sure everything’s as it should be, and you’re ready to enjoy your pool again.

How to Keep Pool Algae From Returning

Now that your pool’s clear again, you want to keep it that way. The number one method to do that is to ensure you maintain proper sanitizer levels. This entails testing your water frequently, at least once a week, but we like to test about every other day.

If you notice levels are a bit on the low side, add sanitizer immediately.

And if it will put your mind further at ease, you can add algaecide during regular water maintenance. But honestly, your best bet is just to stay on top of the sanitizer situation.

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A copper-free algaecide to help prevent your pool from turning green.

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01/28/2023 08:22 am GMT

Do I Need to Worry About Pool Phosphates?

You may have heard pool pros or other pool owners say that to control algae, you need to control pool phosphates, and use phosphate remover to do so.

No, you don’t need to worry about phosphates, and no, you don’t need to use phosphate remover.

Trying to remove phosphates from any environment is like removing dust particles from the air. You will never, ever, ever be able to do it completely. The same is true for phosphates. They’re everywhere and in everything.

Yes, they’re a food source for algae. But to control pests in your vegetable garden, do you remove the vegetables? Of course not. You kill the pests. The same is true for algae.

Sanitize, sanitize, test, balance, and sanitize some more. And use the money you would’ve spent on phosphate remover on a nice pool float.

Frequently Asked Questions About Clearing a Green Pool

Opening your cover to a green pool may be disappointing. No, not “maybe.” It is. But never again will you feel defeated by algae now that you have the upper hand. All it takes is a little hard work and the right chemicals, and you can kick that algae to the curb — er, the pool deck.

How long does it take for a pool to clear up from green?

If you follow our method in this article, you can successfully kill all the algae in your pool in less than 5 days. We recommend adjusting your pH and alkalinity, double or triple shocking the pool at night with calcium hypochlorite shock, and running the filter system 24/7.

If you want to get the job done much faster (but with a little more manual labor), you can try our Fast Floc which will drop green water to the bottom of the pool so you can vacuum it out.

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A fast-acting formula that drops cloudy water particles to the bottom of the pool so you can vacuum it out. Fast Floc will help you remove dead algae and non-living organic contaminants from your pool fast.

It's safe for all pools and filters including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, fiberglass, vinyl liner, and more.

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Will chlorine clear up a green pool?

Yes! In fact, enough chlorine kills algae which causes green pool water. but it takes a large amount in the form of calcium hypochlorite super shock. Adding tablets in the skimmer or chlorinator will not clear up your pool. But you could also try using liquid chlorine instead of powdered shock as it mixes in the water faster. Just keep in mind that liquid chlorine is heavy to carry home from the store and to pour around your pool.

Will baking soda clear a green pool?

No. Baking soda will only raise your alkalinity and pH levels and this will not kill algae. Chlorine is what kills algae. But if you need help using baking soda to raise your alkalinity, read our full guide here.

Can you over shock a green pool?

No. The more chlorine shock you add to a green pool, the better chance it has to kill off all the algae. Follow the normal shock treatment based on the size of your pool and you can double, triple, or quadruple the dose to kill algae.

Will clarifier clear a green pool?

No. Pool clarifier binds particles together to be big enough for your filter to grab. If you have algae, it’s impossible for your filter to remove all of it. Instead, you need to kill it with chlorine. You can physically remove algae by using pool floc, which sinks the algae to the bottom of the pool, but it requires a lot of work to vacuum it out. Read our full pool algae guide here.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Clear a Green Pool in 5 Days or Less appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to drain an above ground pool with or without a pump. You can watch the video tutorial below. Or keep reading for the complete pool draining guide.

When Should You Drain an Above Ground Pool?

There are only a few reasons you’ll ever need to completely drain your pool. Depending on the size of your swimming pool, you should only need to ever partially drain it, even to fix leaks. But there are several situations when you’ll want to drain out most or all of your water:

1. Your water chemistry is beyond rebalancing

Part of regular pool care is maintaining your pool’s water chemistry. But even if you’re meticulous about your pool maintenance, you can end up with a build-up of total dissolved solids (TDS). These are the by-products of all the chemicals you use to keep your pool clean that slowly build up over time. When your TDS level is greater than 2,500 parts per million (PPM), you’ll need to drain and replace some of your pool water with fresh water.

Another reason to replace your pool water? Your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels are too high. The only way to bring those levels down is by partially draining your pool and replacing it with fresh water.

2. You need to make structural repairs

You can handle most pool repairs without draining all of the water from your above ground pool. It’s even possible to patch and repair your pool liner while it’s still underwater. Special maintenance, however, may require an empty pool. And that includes jobs like completely replacing your pool liner or repairing your pool frame’s base.

3. You need to store your pool for the winter

If you have a smaller above ground swimming pool and live in a cold climate, you may need to drain and store it during the winter. Not only will this protect your pool from freezing temperatures, but storing your pool in the off-season may be required to preserve your warranty.

How to Prepare an Above Ground Pool for Draining

Before you drain your above ground pool, you’ll need to have a few things prepared:

• Have a water disposal plan. Check with your city for rules or regulations about how to dispose of pool water, especially if you’re draining your entire pool. Most areas won’t allow you to empty your pool water into storm drains, so you’ll need to empty it directly into the sanitary sewer line outside your home.
• Bring down your pool’s chemical levels. No matter where you’ll dispose of the water, you need to be sure your pool water isn’t full of chemicals before you do. Stop adding chemicals in the days before you drain and test your water before you empty your pool to make sure it’s chlorine neutral. Then check with your local water authority for other chemical requirements. If you need to speed up the process, consider using a chlorine neutralizer.
• Wait for mild, warm weather. Depending on where you live, you may be limited in terms of when you can drain your pool. Check with the local water authority for any rules. But otherwise, plan on waiting for a clear day that’s not too hot. Aim for temperatures at or below 85°F (29°C) to prevent damage to your pool liner.
• Turn off pumps, filters, heaters and automatic timers. If you have any pool equipment with automatic timers, like pumps, turn them off before you start draining. If the water level falls below the skimmer line and the pump turns on, it can overheat.
• Plan to stay near your pool when it drains.
  Never leave your pool unattended while it’s draining or refilling. You can expect it to take 8 to 14 hours to drain, based on the size of your pool and whether you’re using a pump or a hose. And keep in mind that you’ll also spend about the same amount of time filling it up again (check out our pool fill time calculator to help you determine how much time it’ll take to drain or fill your pool).

3 Ways to Drain an Above Ground Pool

You have three options for how to drain an above ground pool: siphoning water with a garden hose, using a submersible pump, or using your pool’s drain adapter.

If you only need to partially drain your pool because you need to adjust your water chemistry, siphoning the water out with a garden hose is an easy option. However, if you need to completely drain a larger pool, you’ll want to use a sump pump to speed up the process.

Finally, if you’re draining a pool to store it during the winter months in a colder climate, you may want to use your pool’s built-in drain adapter (if there is one).

Here’s a step-by-step walk-through of each method.

How to Drain an Above Ground Pool Without A Pump: Garden Hose Siphon Method

If you’re only partially draining your pool or you don’t want to use a pump, you can use a garden hose to siphon out your pool water. It will take longer than using a pump, but this easy, DIY method means you won’t need to buy or rent any equipment.

The easiest way to create a siphon is by submerging the entire garden hose underwater and then removing one end of the hose out of the pool:

1. Submerge the entire hose underwater in the pool. Hold both ends below the surface until the air bubbles stop. This means the hose is now full of water.
2. Place your hand over one end of the hose. While keeping that end covered, pull that end of the hose out of the water.
3. Place the end you’re holding on the ground at a lower level than the pool’s waterline. When you move your hand away, the water should start siphoning out. The hose on the outside of the pool needs to be lower than the water level in the pool. And make sure the end that’s in the water remains under the surface.

If your water level is too shallow for this method or you’re not getting a siphon, you can speed up the process by attaching your garden hose to your house’s spigot (or outdoor faucet).

How to Make a Garden Hose Siphon with a Spigot

1. Connect one end of your garden hose to your spigot and place the other end in your pool. This setup is the same as if you were going to fill up your pool with water. Make sure the end of the garden hose that’s in the pool is secured or weighed down so it won’t pop out.
2. Turn on the water. Water should be running through your hose and filling your pool.
3. Once the hose is completely full of water, unscrew it from the spigot. Place that end of the hose on the ground and then turn off your spigot. This should create a siphon at this point and water should be draining from your pool out the hose. Just make sure this end of the hose is lower the water level in your pool.

Keep in mind that your hose siphon will get slower and slower as the water level decreases. If you have a larger above ground pool, it can take several days to complete the draining process. It’ll also leave an inch or two of water at the bottom of your pool liner. Any remaining water can be removed by a shop vac.

By the way, if you want more pool care tips like this one, check out our Pool Care Video Course.

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How to Drain an Above Ground Pool With a Sump Pump

Using a submersible electric pump, a.k.a. a sump pump, to drain your pool is much quicker than using a garden hose. And if you need to drain your pool every winter, buying a sump pump can be a worthwhile investment. But you can also rent one from a local hardware store if it’s a one-time job and you want to save some money.

You’ll need:

• A submersible pump (aka a sump pump)
• A garden hose
• A shop vac (optional)

Make sure the power cord of your sump pump is long enough to reach the bottom of the pool from the nearest outlet. While it is possible to use an extension cord, it needs to be heavy-duty enough to handle a sump pump.

1. Attach the garden hose to your sump pump.
2. Locate your house’s clean-out port. This is usually in the ground in your front yard near a water spigot. Open the clean-out port by unscrewing the cap. Unravel your garden hose and place it inside the port. Just keep in mind that your hose won’t be sanitary afterward.
3. Place the sump pump underwater in the middle of your pool floor. Turn on the sump pump by plugging it in. Remember, try not to use an extension cord. At this point, water should be flowing through the hose.
4. Monitor your water flow. Carefully watch the pump, hose, and power cords to make sure everything is running smoothly and that the water is properly draining into the clean-out port. Remember, never leave a sump pump running unmonitored.
5. Turn off your pump once the water level is too low. Once the water level is low enough that the pump isn’t pushing water out, turn it off and take it out of the pool. It’s okay if you still have a few inches of water at the bottom. If you need to remove all of the water, use a shop vac.

How to Drain an Above Ground Pool With a Drain Adapter

If you have an Intex, Coleman, or other temporary above ground pool, your pool may have a drain adapter. This allows you to drain the pool faster if you have to take it down at the end of the season.

1. Connect the drain plug to a garden hose before opening the value. Without a hose, the water will drain around and underneath the pool, softening the ground your pool sits on. You may need an adapter to connect your garden hose to your pool.
2. Place the other end of the garden hose away from the pool. Be sure it’s not draining into a neighbor’s yard.
3. Monitor the flow of water. Depending on how many gallons of water your pool holds, you may need to move your hose occasionally. Remember, your water shouldn’t be flowing into a storm drain.

How to Refill Your Above Ground Pool

If you’re making repairs or adding fresh water, don’t plan on leaving your pool empty or dry for too long. Sunlight and weather can damage the liner of an empty pool. So as soon as you’ve completed your repairs, start refilling your pool. Consider using multiple garden hoses to speed up the process.

Once the water reaches halfway up your skimmer, you can turn on your pool pump and filter again. Then retest and rebalance your water. If you need help figuring out the right chemistry levels for your pool, check out our guide on Basic Pool Chemistry 101.

Frequently Asked Questions About How to Drain an Above Ground Pool

Looking for more help with draining your pool? Find answers to the most common questions here.

How long does it take to drain an above ground pool?

It can take anywhere from 8 to 14 hours to drain your pool, depending on how large it is and whether you use a garden hose or a sump pump. Do not leave a sump pump unattended as you drain.

What’s the fastest way to drain an above ground pool?

Using a submersible pump is the fastest way to drain your pool. It acts like a vacuum to remove water quickly, but you’ll need to monitor it while it’s running. A garden hose siphon is another option for draining out water, but it will take much longer.

How often do I need to drain an above ground pool?

It is rare that you will ever have to completely drain an above-ground pool, unless you take it down every year for the winter. Otherwise, most minor leaks and liner repairs can be done while there is still water in the pool. However, if your cyanuric acid or Total Dissolved Solid levels are too high, you’ll need to partially drain and replace your water.

How do I drain my above ground pool without a pump?

You can drain your above ground swimming pool using a regular garden hose and creating a siphon. It will just take much longer than using a sump pump and the siphon will start to slow down as your pool’s water level gets low.

Can I drain my pool with my pool pump?

Never use your pool pump to drain an above ground pool. You’ll pull air into the suction line, which can damage or burn up your pump. Always use a submersible pump to drain an above ground swimming pool.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How to Drain an Above Ground Pool (Even Without a Pump) appeared first on Swim University®.

Here’s a quick guide on how to find a pool leak and how to fix it yourself. You can watch the quick video below. Or keep reading for the complete pool leak detection tutorial.

How Can You Tell Where Your Pool is Leaking?

Before you run any tests inside your pool, you’ll need to make sure the leak isn’t happening somewhere inside your plumbing or pool equipment. Start by checking your entire filter system area. That includes your pool pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, and any O-ring or connections where you might be losing water. Luckily, these leaks are easy to access.

However, there’s a chance there could be a leak in a part of your plumbing you can’t see. And if you have an inground swimming pool, leaks can happen in cracked piping underground. Regardless, even if you’re not sure if you have a plumbing leak, you’ll first need to test your pool to make sure that you’re not losing water to evaporation.

Does Your Pool Have a Leak or is it Evaporation?

The first step to pool leak detection is to determine if you’re losing water to evaporation. Then, you’ll narrow down the source of the leak. You can do this with the Bucket Test or the Ink Test.

Pool Leak Detection: Bucket Test

This DIY method is easy to do and you likely already have all the supplies you need:

• 5-gallon plastic bucket
• Waterproof marker or duct tape

1. Place and Fill the Bucket. Put your empty 5-gallon bucket in the water on the second step of your pool. Fill the bucket with water to match the pool’s water level. Use the marker or duct tape to mark this level inside the bucket.
2. Turn Off the Pump. Turn off the recirculating pump as well as any other auto-refill device you may have.
3. Compare Water Levels. Wait 24 hours and compare the pool water level to the level of water in the bucket. If both the pool and the bucket water have gone down but remain even, your pool is losing water due to evaporation. But if the swimming pool level is now lower than the level in the bucket, you likely have a leak.
4. Repeat with Pump On. To narrow down the possible source of the leak, repeat the test for another 24-hour period, this time with the pump on.
5. Compare New Results. If the water loss in the pool is greater with water circulating under pressure, the leak is most likely somewhere in your pool’s filter system or plumbing.

By the way, if you want more help whenever you’ve got trouble with your pool, check out our easy-to-follow Pool Care Video Course.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

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Click Here to Learn More

Pool Leak Detection: Dye Test

This method will help you find the exact location of the leak, but it’s a little more involved. You’ll need to purchase a leak finder dye to add directly to your pool water. It’s also handy to have some waterproof tape on hand for marking potential leaky spots in your pool.

1. Check the Ground and Walls Around the Pool for Wetness. If the ground is wet where it shouldn’t be, your pool is likely leaking somewhere near that area and seeping somewhere in the ground. Keep narrowing it down as much as possible before using the leak finder dye.
2. Turn Off the Pump and Water Features. You’ll need the water to be as still as possible before using the dye to help find the location of the leak. This will also help you detect leaks in or near the skimmer.
3. Use the Pool Leak Detection Dye to Pinpoint the Leak. Go to the edge of the swimming pool in the area where you think the leak might be. Without touching the water, squirt the dye in the water close to the surface and the wall. If the leak is near, you will see the dye move towards the exaction location of the leak like a current.
4. Mark the Spot for Patching. Use waterproof tape to mark the spot where you spotted the leak detection dye moving towards. This is to help you remember where you need to patch the leak.

If you suspect your leak is at the bottom of your pool, you’ll need a pair of goggles and swim to the bottom to perform the leak finder test. But you’ll need to be as still as possible when you run the test so the dye doesn’t go everywhere.

Leakmaster Pre-Filled Leak Finder Dye

This pre-filled dye tester helps you find the precise location of structural pool leaks. Simply squirt the syringe into the water close to the potential problem area and the dye will flow towards the source of a leak.

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If you have a concrete pool or gunite pool and it’s developed cracks, especially where the plastic skimmer meets the pool wall, you’ll need some plaster repair. Check out our complete step-by-step guide on How To Repair Plaster in a Pool. But if your pool has a vinyl liner, you can repair the patch yourself.

How To Fix a Leak in Your Pool’s Vinyl Liner

Leak repair is fairly straightforward in a vinyl liner pool. And a well-placed, quality pool patch can last for years. But no matter what method you use to repair your pool’s liner, patches are temporary. And the bigger your tear, the more likely it will snag or peel off over time.

So before you do any repair, decide if your liner is worth trying to patch or if it’s time to replace it altogether. The older the liner, the thinner it’s become and the more prone it is to spring leaks in the future.

And keep in mind that any area close to the stairs or near your pool’s fittings is being pulled by the weight of your pool water. They’re under more duress than other areas of your pool, so patches there may be less likely to hold up in the long run.

If you do want to repair the leak, there are three methods to choose from and all of them can be used underwater or dry. Do not drain your pool to fix a leak. You shouldn’t need to drain any of your water to apply a patch to a leak. Draining out too much water in an above ground pool can cause the walls to collapse. And emptying out any pool with a vinyl liner will dry it out, making the liner brittle. So plan to patch the liner underwater, unless the leak happens to be dry and above the waterline.

1. Waterproof Tape

Similar to duct tape, this tape is clear, waterproof, and resistant to UV rays. You can overlap this tape if you need to patch large sections. It’s the lowest cost option and the easiest to re-do if you make a mistake. But it’s best for smaller leak repair as it tends to peel over time.

Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape - 4 in. x 10 ft.

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2. Peel-and-Stick Patches

These patches are made of real vinyl and designed specifically for pools. Some patches are pre-cut into round shapes, making them less likely to peel around the edges. They’re also inexpensive and easy to use: simply remove the backing and press of the leak. But they’re also best used on smaller tears or punctures.

Boxer Adhesives Peel and Stick Vinyl Plastic Pool Patch

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3. Vinyl Patch Kit

If you have a larger hole to repair or you want a longer-term solution, use a vinyl patch kit. These kits come with large chunks of blue or clear liner and special underwater vinyl adhesive. These are more complicated to use but they’ll last longer than waterproof tape or a peel-and-stick patch.

Vinyl Pool Liner Repair Kit

$17.49

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01/27/2023 05:44 pm GMT

If you need more help patching a vinyl liner underwater, check out our guide on How to Patch a Pool Liner.

When To Ask a Professional to Test and Repair a Pool Leak

Pool leak detection services cost several hundred dollars. And while some pool companies might include minor patch jobs in the price, it’s worth it for any pool owner to try some of these methods before paying for a professional to come in.

But if you’re a homeowner with an inground pool and you suspect the leak is underground in your plumbing, you’ll need to call in a pool professional to pressure test the lines for possible cracks.

Remember, if swimming pool leak detection—or any other pool repair—becomes too difficult, or you’re not sure you’re getting the right results, it’s worth consulting a professional

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post Pool Leak Detection: How To Quickly Find The Leak Yourself appeared first on Swim University®.

You can watch the quick video tutorial below. Or keep reading for the complete cloudy pool water troubleshooting guide.

4 Causes of Cloudy Pool Water And How To Fix It

Poor filtration, low chlorine levels, poor water chemistry, and outside contaminants cause cloudy water. Here’s how to troubleshoot each one of these issues.

1. Poor Filtration

Filter problems are the main cause of cloudy pool water. If your filter isn’t functioning properly, then it can’t remove the tiny contaminants that cause cloudy pool water.

SOLUTION: Keep your pool’s circulation system flowing with regular cleaning, maintenance, and run times. Check for the following filtration issues:

• Your pool filter has a clog or build-up. If you haven’t cleaned your filter in a while, it’s time to backwash your sand or D.E. filter, clean your D.E. filter grids, or clean the cartridge in your filter. Check out our pool filter cleaning walkthrough for more help.
• Your skimmer basket or pump basket is full of debris. Remove any leaves, twigs, or other debris in your skimmer or pump basket. If you’re frequently finding debris in your circulation system, take a look at our pool skimmer troubleshooting guide.
• Your pool filter media needs replacing. If your filter media is worn out or damaged, it won’t be able to capture contaminants that cause cloudy water. So every 5 years, change your filter sand or replace your cartridge filters every 2-3 years. If you have a D.E. filter, add fresh diatomaceous earth powder or replace your D.E. grids.
• You’re not running your filter long enough. To fix a cloudy pool, all of your pool water must run through the filter system at least once a day. You need to run your filter system for at least 8 to 12 hours a day.
• Your pool pump or filter needs replacing. As it gets older, your pool filter system can start to fail and you may need to replace major pieces of equipment.

2. Low Chlorine Levels

Pathogens, bacteria, and cloudy water form when there’s not enough chlorine to sanitize your water. Chlorine levels can drop if there’s lots of debris like leaves in your pool.

Also, if there’s a build-up of bodily contaminants like sweat or sunscreen, or if your water is exposed to the sun’s UV rays and your chlorine is not properly stabilized.

SOLUTION: Test your free chlorine and combined chlorine levels, add shock to rebalance your chlorine levels, and add cyanuric acid to stabilize a sun-exposed pool.

• Test your free chlorine levels. “Free Chlorine” is the amount of chlorine that’s available to sanitize your pool water. If these levels are low, you don’t have enough chlorine working in your water. To test for free chlorine, use test strips, a liquid test kit, or take a sample to your local pool supply store. If you have a chlorine or salt water pool, your free chlorine and combined chlorine should read between 1 and 3 ppm (parts per million).
• Calculate your combined chlorine levels. If your free chlorine levels are lower than your total chlorine levels, you can end up with chloramines. Chloramines are the byproduct of chlorine sanitizing which can be irritating and even corrosive. Your Combined Chlorine is the difference between your Free Chlorine reading and the Total Chlorine reading. Your combined chlorine should be below 0.5 ppm.
• Shock your pool with cal-hypo shock. To quickly bump up your free chlorine levels and remove chloramines, shock your pool using calcium hypochlorite shock. Calcium hypochlorite should be the main active ingredient in your pool shock (around 60 to 80%). Shocking your pool once per week during peak pool season refreshes your sanitizer levels and prevents cloudy water. If you need more help using shock, check out our guide on how to use pool shock.
• Test and add cyanuric acid if needed. Make sure you have the proper levels of cyanuric acid or CYA in your water. This will help prevent the sun’s UV rays from breaking down your chlorine too quickly. Your CYA levels should be between 30 and 50 ppm. Be sure to read our guide on how to balance your cyanuric acid levels.

3. Poor Water Chemistry: High pH, Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness Levels

High levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness can form scale on your pool surfaces and inside your plumbing. This can lead to pool filtration, bacteria growth, and cloudy water. And poor water chemistry makes it more difficult for your chlorine to function well and kill contaminants.

SOLUTION: Test and balance your pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels.

• Test and balance your Total Alkalinity (TA) levels. Your alkalinity helps prevent fluctuations in your pH, so you’ll want to adjust these levels first. High alkalinity levels can cause pH and calcium scaling, which can cause cloudy water. To lower your alkalinity levels, use muriatic acid or a pH decreaser. To raise your alkalinity levels, use an alkalinity increaser or baking soda.
• Test and balance your pH levels. Improper pH levels can affect your chlorine and the other chemicals in your water. High levels of pH can cause calcium build-up and scaling which leads to cloudy pool water. Low levels of pH can cause your chlorine to become overly reactive and quickly depleted. This means it’s less effective at sanitizing, leading to a build-up of contaminants and cloudy pool water. You can lower your pH levels with a pH decreaser. You can raise your pH with a pH increaser or soda ash. If you want more help balancing your pH and total alkalinity, check out our complete guide to basic pool water chemistry.
• Test and balance your Calcium Hardness levels. High calcium hardness levels can cause calcium build-up and scale inside your pool plumbing and equipment. This creates a cloudy pool water problem that’s not easy to fix. If you have high calcium hardness levels, the only thing you can do is dilute your pool water. Partially drain your pool and refill with fresh water from a garden hose filter. Just remember that diluting your pool water will affect all of your water chemistry levels, so you’ll need to test your water again. For more help, check out our guide on how to balance your calcium hardness levels.

4. Contaminants, Like Debris or Algae

Contaminants, particles, and small debris in your pool can cause cloudy water. This is especially common during the springtime. Early-stage algae growth may also cause cloudy pool water.

SOLUTION: Treat algae in its early stages by cleaning and shocking your pool. Test, balance, and clean your water after a rainstorm or when debris or pollen accumulates in your pool.

• Treat algae. If you already have visible algae growth, you’ll need to get rid of your algae problem before you treat your cloudy pool water. Unfortunately, algaecide won’t solve the problem. It’s better as a preventative measure, not a treatment. To remove algae, you’ll need to skim, brush, and vacuum your pool. Be sure to bypass the filter by vacuuming on the waste setting. Then, you’ll want to shock your pool. If you need a step-by-step tutorial on getting rid of algae, check out our guide on how to get rid of algae in your pool.
• Test, balance, and clean your pool after a rainstorm. Storms can blow dirt and debris into your pool and the rain can dilute your pool water. That means your chlorine levels can drop, which we know can lead to cloudy water. Test and balance your water after a rainstorm and skim, brush, and vacuum the pool as needed. If you need to lower your water level, follow this guide on how to drain water from your pool after rain.

Tired of cloudy water and want to learn how to never deal with this problem again? Check out our pool maintenance video course today!

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If you’ve tackled these common problems and you want to fix cloudy pool water fast, you can use either a pool clarifier or pool flocculant (aka pool floc). However, your cloudy pool water will return if you don’t correct the underlying causes. So be sure your filter system is running smoothly, your chlorine levels are correct, your water is balanced and you’ve eliminated any algae growth.

How To Use Pool Clarifier (Clears Cloudy Water In 48-72 Hours)

Pool clarifier uses your pool filter system to clear up the cloudy water. This is the easiest method for clearing cloudy pool water, but it takes a few days depending on your pool filter system’s power. A pool clarifier works with any filter type and works best with milder cloudy water issues.

1. Skim, Brush, and Vacuum Your Pool

Remove large debris with a heavy-duty skimmer. Brush your walls well with a stiff pool brush, then vacuum manually.

Do not use an automatic pool cleaner. It won’t properly suck up finer debris. Then vacuum your pool. But if you think you’ve got an algae problem, be sure to check out our guide on how to get rid of pool algae here first.

2. Test and Balance Your Water

Test your water with test strips or a liquid test kit. Test strips are easier and quicker to use but are less accurate than a good liquid test kit. Or you can take a water sample to your local pool store. Then, adjust your pH and alkalinity as needed until your water is balanced.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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3. Shock Your Pool

To eliminate any contaminants or chloramines in your cloudy pool water, add a high dose of chlorine by shocking your pool. If the cloudy water in your pool is due to a pool algae bloom, you’ll have to double or triple shock depending on the type of algae you have. And always shock your pool at dusk or night for maximum effectiveness.

Run your filter and let the shock dissolve overnight or for at least 8 hours. Then retest your water.

4. Run Your Filter 24/7

You’ll need to continuously run your filter over the next few days to help clear up the cloudy water. Then you can return to regular filter run times once your water is clear.

Your pool will clear faster depending on the type of filter you own. D.E. Filters, for example, filter out extra fine particles and will clear up cloudy water more quickly. If you have a cartridge filter, it will take a bit longer. If you have a sand filter, it will take the longest.

5. Increase Your Pool Circulation

Your skimmer located at the surface of your pool can’t get to the debris or cloudy water at the bottom of your pool. To help all of your pool water pass through your filter, you can increase your pool’s circulation.

• Position your return jets. Point your return jet(s) down at a 45° angle and all in the same direction. This will help churn the cloudy water up from the bottom of the pool to the top where your main skimmer can get it into your filter system.
• Use your bottom drains. If you have an inground pool, make sure the main drain at the bottom is on and is pulling water from the bottom of the pool into your filter system. This will speed up filtering and clear the pool water faster.
• Turn your vacuum upside down. If you have an above ground pool with no main drain, you can hook up your manual vacuum cleaner and turn it upside down at the bottom of the pool to mimic a bottom main drain.

6. Add Pool Water Clarifier

After your pool water has circulated and your shock has dissipated, it’s time to add your clarifier. Clarifier helps bind tiny particles into bigger particles that your filter can capture. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you’re adding the correct amount for your size pool.

Here’s our recommendation for a pool clarifier:

Our Top Pick

Pool Water Clarifier by Swim University

Clears cloudy pool water by combining particles making it easier for your filter to remove. Let your filter do all the work! This fast-acting formula improves filter efficiency for the more effective removal of dead algae and organic debris. Apply clarifier directly to the pool. Great for all pools including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, vinyl liner, and fiberglass. It's also compatible with salt water, mineral, ozone, and non-chlorine pool water. 

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Clarifier works to clear mild cloudy pool water. Add it every other day as your filter runs until your water clears. If you have extremely cloudy water, you need to use a pool flocculant.

How To Use Pool Flocculant (Clears Cloudy Water In 24-48 Hours)

Pool flocculant, also known as Pool Floc, causes the particles to coagulate together, creating large clumps that sink to the bottom of your pool. It’s much faster and more powerful than a pool clarifier, but it takes much more work and requires a lot of manual vacuuming.

The coagulated particles cannot be removed by your filter, so you must be able to vacuum the water out of your pool while bypassing your filter media.

1. Balance Your pH

Test your water’s pH levels with test strips or a liquid test kit. Then, adjust your pH as needed, either with a pH increaser or pH decreaser.

2. Add Pool Flocculant (Floc) Your Water

Pool flocculant binds the contaminants that cause cloudy pool water. Those large clumps then sink to the bottom of your pool. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you’re adding the correct amount of floc for your size pool.

Here’s our recommendation for a pool flocculant:

Our Top Pick

Fast Floc by Swim University

A fast-acting formula that drops cloudy water particles to the bottom of the pool so you can vacuum it out. Fast Floc will help you remove dead algae and non-living organic contaminants from your pool fast.

It's safe for all pools and filters including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, fiberglass, vinyl liner, and more.

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3. Circulate Your Water

Circulate the pool water with your filter system for two hours. If you have a multiport valve, set it to “recirculate” to bypass your filter.

After circulating the pool chemical for two hours, shut off the filter system for the next 8-12 hours to let the particles settle to the bottom of the pool. Make sure your automatic timer doesn’t turn on in the middle of the night.

4. Vacuum Water Out Of Your Pool

You should now see a big cloud at the bottom of the pool. This means the pool flocculant collected all the particles that were making the water cloudy and sank them to the bottom. And that means it’s time to vacuum.

If you just vacuum your water through your filtration system, it’ll just blow right back in through the return jets. Instead, you have to vacuum the water out of your pool.

To do this with a multiport valve on your filter, just set it to the Waste option. This will send the pool water out of the backwash port as you vacuum. Keep a garden hose in your pool to refill your water while you vacuum.

If you don’t have a multiport valve, open the drain port on your filter and let it drain out as you vacuum.

Move the vacuum slowly along the bottom of the pool or else you’ll kick up the cloudy water. You may have to do this multiple times. Let the cloud resettle before continuing.

5. Test And Balance Your Water

Because you’ve removed water from your pool, you’ll need to rebalance your water chemistry. Test your pool water using test strips or a liquid test kit and adjust your Alkalinity and pH. Once you get those levels balanced, add your chlorine.

Now that you’ve gotten the cloudy water out of the pool, you can start running your filter system normally (8-12 hours a day or however long it takes your water to cycle through your filter at least once).

Frequently Asked Questions About Cloudy Pool Water

Looking for more help with your cloudy pool water? Here are some common questions and answers.

How long does it take for a cloudy pool to clear?

Depending on how cloudy your water is, it may take 2-3 days for your water to clear. If you’re using a clarifier, you’ll need to run your filter 24/7, keep your water chemistry balanced, and add the proper amount of water clarifier every other day until it’s clear. Pool flocculant is more powerful and can clear up your cloudy pool water in 1-2 days. But you will need to use a manual vacuum to remove all of the coagulated particles.

Should you swim in cloudy pool water?

No, you should not swim in a cloudy pool. Cloudy pool water is full of contaminants and pathogens. There’s also an increased risk of drowning since swimmers can’t see the bottom of the pool.

Why is my pool cloudy after shocking?

Adding pool shock to an otherwise perfectly clean and balanced pool can even cause temporary cloudiness. This is common and it will dissipate over time as your filter runs. This can also happen if you use a cheaper shock. Be sure to use cal-hypo shock and read the instructions for the proper dosages.

Does too much chlorine make pool water cloudy?

High doses of chlorine, like pool shock, can cause temporary cloudiness as it kills contaminants. High levels of pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness are more likely to cause cloudy water.

Will rainwater make my pool cloudy?

Rainstorms commonly cause cloudy pool water. They can wash contaminants into your pool water and the additional rainwater can throw off your pool water chemistry and lower your chlorine levels.

Will a cloudy pool clear on its own?

If your filter system is running properly and consistently, your chlorine levels are correct, your water is balanced and you’ve eliminated any algae growth, your cloudy pool can clear on its own. Otherwise, consider using a pool clarifier or pool flocculant.

Need More Pool Maintenance Help?

• Download our free Pool Care Cheat Sheet. It’s a free, easy-to-use guide to help you keep track of taking care of your pool.
• Subscribe to our Swim University YouTube Channel. We publish free video tutorials throughout the pool season.
• Check out our Pool Care Course. You’ll get 30+ step-by-step videos and a step-by-step downloadable guide with everything you need to know about pool maintenance.

The post How to Clear Cloudy Pool Water in 48 Hours or Less appeared first on Swim University®.

Unfortunately, typical doses of chlorine will not kill pool algae. And running your pool filter will not eliminate algae spores.

To get rid of algae in your pool, follow these step-by-step deep cleaning procedures. Then avoid algae blooms in the future by using these smart pool algae prevention measures.

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep reading for the complete troubleshooting guide on how to get rid of algae in your pool.

What Causes Pool Algae?

Algae spores are everywhere. They can get into your pool through rain, dirt, and even wind. But those pervasive algae spores become a problem when they multiply in your pool water, turn into an algae bloom, or start growing on your pool walls. Low chlorine levels, improper pH levels, dirty filters, or pool circulation create the perfect conditions for algae growth. Algae can also be introduced by contaminated swimwear or toys that were used in a river, pond, lake, or ocean with algae.

Algae prevention is a lot easier than treating an existing large algae problem. That’s why it’s so important to keep your pool water balanced, clean your filter system and wash off any swimwear or toys that have been used in natural bodies of water.

What Are The Different Types Of Pool Algae?

Knowing what type of pool algae you have will help you treat it. First, figure out what color algae is in your pool. Then, keep reading for a complete step-by-step walkthrough on how to get rid of algae.

• Green pool algae is the most common and easiest algae to kill. However, this floating-green algae spreads quickly, clouding up your pool water and causing green slime on pool surfaces. Getting rid of green algae involves vacuuming and brushing your pool, then shocking and filtering your water. Green algae will vary in severity from teal green to dark, blackish green.
• Yellow pool algae, also called brown or mustard algae, is a rarer form of algae found in humid climates. It looks like globs of pollen or sand that cling to the shady corners of your pool. And unfortunately, it is chlorine-resistant. Killing mustard algae involves multiple rounds of brushing your pool surfaces and adding extra shock to your pool water. If you’re wondering if you have yellow algae, check out our guide on how to get rid of mustard algae in a pool.
• Black pool algae is actually a bacteria. Its roots dig into concrete surfaces, making it extremely tough to kill. Getting rid of black algae requires several rounds of deep cleaning, and it will grow back quickly if you aren’t thorough. If you’re wondering if you have black algae, check out our complete guide on how to diagnose and kill black algae in your pool.

How Do I Get Rid of Algae In My Pool FAST?

You can get rid of algae quickly by vacuuming and brushing your pool, balancing your pool’s water chemistry, and then shocking and filtering your pool water. Just be thorough as you clean your pool surfaces. If you leave behind even a small number of algae spores, it won’t be long before they regrow and bloom again.

1. Vacuum Your Pool Manually

Automatic or robotic pool cleaners aren’t well suited for cleaning algae. You’ll need to manually vacuum your pool on your filter’s Waste setting. This allows you to bypass your filter, preventing contaminated, algae-filled water from recirculating back into your pool.

When you vacuum your pool manually, pay special attention to areas with algae. And be sure to refill your pool’s water as you vacuum, maintaining your water level at least halfway up the skimmer. If you want to learn how to properly vacuum your pool, check out our guide on how to use a manual pool vacuum.

2. Brush Your Pool Walls and Floor

Scrubbing the algae off your pool walls helps chlorine get deeper into the remaining algae. It also loosens up contaminants so they can be killed and filtered out.

Using a stiff pool brush on a pole, brush the walls and floor of your pool. Pay special attention to corners, crevices, and shady areas where algae is usually worst. As you go, your water will become cloudy, obstructing your view, so brush the tougher spots first.

If you have a concrete or gunite pool, use a pool brush with stainless steel bristles to remove algae from your pool walls. Otherwise, we recommend using a nylon bristle pool brush:

Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Round Pool Brush

The wide pool brush has 360 degrees of strong bristles to clean hard-to-reach pool surfaces fast, including steps, ladders, slides, diving boards, and tough corners/crevices in every type of pool. This one-of-a-kind pool brush eliminates back and hip pains associated with one-sided brushes.

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3. Test and Balance the Water

Use test strips, a digital kit, or a liquid test kit to test your alkalinity and pH. Balancing your water chemistry now ensures your sanitizer will be effective against the algae. High pH or low alkalinity will especially inhibit pool shock.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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4. Shock Your Swimming Pool

Adding shock to your pool super-chlorinates your water. And this extra dose of sanitizer will kill algae growth. The more serious your pool algae problem, the more shock you’ll need.

We recommend using calcium hypochlorite shock, or cal-hypo shock, as an effective algae treatment. Follow the package instructions to determine the dose for your pool size, then multiply that by two, three, or four depending on which type of algae you’ve got.

• Green Algae: Double dose of shock (x2)
• Yellow or Dark Green Algae: Triple dose of shock (x3)
• Black Algae: Quadruple dose of shock (x4)

Here is the type of cal-hypo shock we recommend:

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Remember to shock your pool at dusk or night. If you shock during the day, the sun will eat up most of the chlorine before it has a chance to kill the algae. And put your cleaning equipment, like your vacuum head or pool brush, in the shallow end of your pool so your tools will get sanitized while the shock is in the water.

Be sure to run your filter for eight hours or overnight to circulate the shock. If there’s still a significant amount of algae in your pool, repeat the brushing and shocking process again.

If you need help shocking your pool, check out our guide on how to use pool shock.

5. Filter Out The Pool Algae

After your shock treatment kills the algae, it’ll turn your water a cloudy blue. Don’t panic! That’s just dead algae.

When algae dies, it turns from green to gray and the dead, gray algae particles need to be filtered out. Run your filter continuously for a minimum of eight hours or until the water clears up. And you can use our water clarifier to speed up the process.

Our Top Pick

Pool Water Clarifier by Swim University

Clears cloudy pool water by combining particles making it easier for your filter to remove. Let your filter do all the work! This fast-acting formula improves filter efficiency for the more effective removal of dead algae and organic debris. Apply clarifier directly to the pool. Great for all pools including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, vinyl liner, and fiberglass. It's also compatible with salt water, mineral, ozone, and non-chlorine pool water. 

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If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

6. Test Your Pool Water Again

Make sure your water chemical levels are balanced and your chlorine is back to normal before anyone gets back into the water. Adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine levels as needed. You may also want to test your cyanuric acid and calcium hardness levels since you’ve removed water from your pool and replaced it with fresh water.

7. Clean Your Pool Filter

Your filter just processed a lot of contaminated water. And the last thing you want is your dirty filter slowly adding microscopic algae spores back into your pool. Deep clean your filter cartridges by soaking them in diluted muriatic acid, or by replacing them entirely. If you have a sand or D.E. filter, now’s the time to backwash.

Want to stop your pool from ever turning green again? Check out our pool care video course. You’ll learn how to keep your pool chemistry in check so you never have to deal with algae outbreaks in the future.

Frustrated by adding chemicals and trying to keep your pool clear all the time?

We cut out all the confusion of pool maintenance in this easy-to-read illustrated ebook and video course. It'll help you save $100 right away on pool care!

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Can You Use Algaecide to Get Rid of Pool Algae?

Technically, you can use an algaecide to kill algae. But we don’t recommend using it to get rid of a large algae problem. Algaecide is very expensive compared to chlorine. And it can introduce a lot of copper to your pool water. However, algaecide is effective for early-stage algae growth, small amounts of algae, or as a preventive measure. For more information on using algaecide, check out our article The Truth About Using Pool Algaecide.

Algaecide is also handy for killing off lingering algae after you’ve cleaned your pool. Once you’re done vacuuming, brushing, and shocking your pool, wait for your chlorine levels to fall below 5 ppm. Then add a dose of algaecide. Brush your pool to loosen any last bits of algae you can’t see. The algaecide will help kill remaining algae particles before they’re filtered out.

Here’s the algaecide we recommend. Add this as a final step in the algae clean up process or as a preventative measure in your pool:

Our Top Pick

Pool Algaecide 60 (Copper-Free)

$40.89 ($1.28 / Fl Oz)

A copper-free algaecide to help prevent your pool from turning green.

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01/28/2023 08:22 am GMT

Can You Use Pool Flocculant to Remove Pool Algae?

Yes, you can use pool flocculant to treat the early stages of algae growth. This additive bonds to floating algae particles, making it easier to vacuum them out of your pool. But if you have anything more serious than a mild green algae problem, we recommend you follow the full cleaning plan.

Here is the pool flocculant we recommend for milder algae problems:

Our Top Pick

Fast Floc by Swim University

A fast-acting formula that drops cloudy water particles to the bottom of the pool so you can vacuum it out. Fast Floc will help you remove dead algae and non-living organic contaminants from your pool fast.

It's safe for all pools and filters including inground, above ground, concrete, plaster, fiberglass, vinyl liner, and more.

Buy Now From Swim University

If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Here’s how to use pool flocculant to get rid of early-stage algae:

1. If you have a multiport valve on your filter, shut off your pump and turn the valve to Recirculate or Recycle. This will mix the floc around without filtering the water. If you need help understanding your multiport valve, check out our guide on how to use a multiport valve.
2. Add the recommended dosage of flocculant to your pool.
3. Circulate your water for two hours, then shut off your pump and let it sit overnight. The floc will bind to the algae, then settle on the pool floor.
4. Turn the multiport valve set to Waste so dirty water doesn’t blast back into your pool through your return lines.
5. Hook up your backwash hose to the Backwash/Waste port. Direct your wastewater appropriately.
6. Vacuum your pool. Work slowly to make sure you get all the thick sediment off the bottom. If the water gets too cloudy, you may need to stop and allow the particles to settle again before continuing to vacuum.
7. Add water while you’re vacuuming to maintain your pool’s water level.
8. Double shock immediately after vacuuming to eliminate any remaining algae. You may also want to brush the pool sides and floor before shocking.
9. Run your filter until the water clears.

How to Prevent Algae in Your Pool

Following these basic pool maintenance principles will help prevent future algae issues.

• Test and balance your water once a week, after rainstorms, or after heavy use (like pool parties). Adjust your alkalinity, pH, and chlorine levels as needed
• Shock your pool once a week during peak pool season
• Run your pump 8 to 12 hours per day to fully circulate your water
• Clean or backwash your filter regularly
• Wash and sanitize your swimwear, pool equipment, floats, and toys before introducing them back into your pools
• Add flocculant or algaecide if you notice the early stages of algae growth

Frequently Asked Questions about Algae in Pools

Looking for more help with algae in your pool? Here are some common questions and answers.

Can you swim in a pool with algae?

Technically yes, but it’s not recommended. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with lots of algae can contain harmful bacteria and pathogens like E-coli. And cloudy water caused by algae can be a hazard if swimmers can’t see the bottom of the pool. Avoid swimming in a pool that isn’t properly sanitized and cleaned.

How do you treat algae in saltwater pools?

Getting rid of algae in a saltwater pool is exactly the same process as a traditionally chlorinated pool. Remember, a saltwater pool is a chlorine pool. You are just adding salt instead of a chemical to generate chlorine. Like a traditional chlorine pool, you’ll want to use calcium hypochlorite shock, also known as cal-hypo shock. For more information, check out our guide on how to remove algae from a saltwater pool.

Does phosphate remover kill algae in pools?

Phosphate removers work by cutting off the nutrient source for algae. The more phosphates in the water, the more there is for algae to consume. But phosphate removers won’t solve any underlying water chemistry issues, like low chlorine or improper pH levels. If you keep your water sanitized with chlorine, algaecide, and the occasional pool shock, you won’t need a phosphate remover. Be sure to check out our complete guide on phosphates in pool water.

Does shock kill algae in pools?

Yes, shock is the key ingredient to killing algae in pools. Shock raises the free chlorine levels in your pool water to the point where contaminants like algae die off. Depending on the severity of your algae growth, you’ll need to add 2-4 doses of shock. And it’s normal to see cloudy water after killing algae with shock. The water should clear up after you run your filter. Just be sure to vacuum and brush your pool before using shock. This helps remove and loosen up large amounts of algae.

Here’s the type of shock we recommend:

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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The post The Smart Way to Kill Algae in Your Pool Quickly appeared first on Swim University®.

Or maybe you’ve noticed orangeish-pink streaks or spots around your pool’s waterline, in the corners, on light fixtures and pipe fittings, or even on the water’s surface. You’re dealing with pink slime.

Fortunately, addressing both of these problems is as easy as preventing them from happening again in the future. All it takes is an understanding of what these substances truly are.

What is White Water Mold?

Just like any other type of mold, white water mold is a type of fungus. All molds are fungi, but not all fungi are molds. For example, yeast is also a fungus, but it’s not mold, which is a good thing because without it, we wouldn’t have bread and beer. Then again, without mold, we wouldn’t have penicillin. Regardless, white water mold is not something you want in your pool.

What is That Pink Slime in a Pool?

Because of its appearance, you may have heard pink slime in a pool referred to as pink algae. But it’s not algae at all. It’s Serratia marcescens, also known as pink bacteria.

You’ve probably seen it before, in your home, most likely in your bathroom. Maybe along the bottom of your shower curtain, or around the water line in a toilet bowl. You may have heard some people say, “Oh, that’s just rust. We have hard water.”

It’s not rust. It’s an airborne bacteria that loves moist environments, especially bathrooms, because it feeds on the mineral deposits found in soap scum. It also likes fatty deposits found in soap and shampoo residue. Apparently, pink bacteria is not a picky eater.

Aside from being unsightly, it’s also dangerous. If the bacteria enters the body, usually through the eyes or nose, or via an open wound, it can cause numerous illnesses such as pneumonia, urinary tract infections, lower respiratory tract infections, to name just a few. For this reason, it’s all the more important to get rid of it when you find it in your pool, or better yet, keep it from occurring at all.

Important: Another place you may see pink bacteria in your home is in a pet’s water dish. If this happens, you must clean and sanitize the dish, and keep it clean to prevent illness. Serratia marcescens can cause or complicate urinary tract infections in dogs, and bacteremia in both dogs and cats.

What Causes White Water Mold and Pink Slime?

Just like any other type of fungus or bacteria, white water mold and pink slime are organic, naturally occurring substances.

If you find either one—or heaven forbid, both—in your pool, it’s due to two factors: your pool isn’t clean, and the water isn’t properly balanced.

Does Biguanide Cause White Water Mold?

No. This rumor persists for some reason, but no. Biguanide (which you may know under the brand name Baquacil) doesn’t cause white mold to grow in your pool.

In fact, biguanide can help get rid of it, if that’s the system you’re already using in your pool.

Whichever problem you have, the first step in getting rid of either mold or slime is going to be to clean your pool.

Baquacil CDX - 1/2 gal. - 2 Pack

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How to Get Rid of White Water Mold in a Chlorine Pool

It’s important to be thorough in this process because even the smallest bit of white water mold left behind can multiply and go right back to being a big problem in no time.

1. Clean the Filter

If there’s white water mold in your pool, it’s probably in your filter too. So before you do anything else, clean the filter because you’ll need to use the filter later on to complete this process. It won’t be as effective if it’s infested with mold.

For this step, simply backwashing a sand or D.E. filter, or spraying the cartridge with a hose is enough, though you can also use filter cleaner if you want to.

2. Balance the Water

The most important level to balance is the pH. Make sure it’s between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.

3. Shock the Pool

A regular dose won’t be enough to kill the white water mold. You’ll need to triple or even quadruple shock your pool with chlorine shock. That means adding 3 or 4 pounds of calcium hypochlorite shock per 10,000 gallons of water.

If you’re not sure of your pool’s volume, you can use a pool calculator to figure it out before shocking.

Pool Volume Calculator Click on your pool shape to calculate the volume of water.

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Round

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Important: Remember, you need to shock your pool at dusk or night, so plan this process accordingly.

Our Top Pick

Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal-Hypo Shock)

This fast-acting, quick-dissolving swimming pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, controls algae, and destroys organic contaminants in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1-pound bags.

Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

4. Brush the Pool

Using a stiff pool brush, thoroughly brush the pool’s bottom and walls. The goal is to brush as much of the white water mold off the surface as possible.

Check in and around the skimmer and return jets, behind ladders, and in shady spots of your pool where mold likes to lurk.

Our Top Pick

Heavy Duty Round Pool Brush

The wide pool brush has 360 degrees of strong bristles to clean hard-to-reach pool surfaces fast, including steps, ladders, slides, diving boards, and tough corners/crevices in every type of pool. This one-of-a-kind pool brush eliminates back and hip pains associated with one-sided brushes.

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5. Run the Pump

Overnight is good, but for 24 hours is even better. The idea is to get all the mold you brushed from the pool into the filter, so give it as much time as you can.

6. Brush the Pool Again

Think you got all the mold the first time around? Think again. You probably missed some, and if you leave it, everything you’re doing now will be for nothing because it’ll come right back.

So brush the sides and bottom of the pool again, and then let everything you brush up settle on the bottom.

7. Vacuum the Pool

An automatic pool cleaner won’t be enough for this job. You’ll need to manually vacuum the pool. Be sure to vacuum to waste.

Tip: Depending on how much mold and other debris you have to vacuum out of the pool, the water line may drop too low. Have a garden hose handy to refill as necessary.

8. Clean the Filter Again

This time, definitely use a filter cleaner for a sand or D.E. filter, or a chemical soak for a cartridge filter.

9. Test and Balance the Water

You can use test strips or a liquid test kit, or take a sample of pool water to your local pool store and have them test it for you. Make sure you bring the pH, alkalinity, and especially the chlorine back up to the right levels.

Note: Yes, you do need to repeat a couple of steps. That should be an indication of what a problem white water mold is, and how difficult it can be to get rid of it. Be patient and thorough, because repeating a couple of steps is better than repeating the entire process if any mold is left behind.

Our Top Pick

Complete Liquid Test Kit for Pools and Hot Tubs

A simple but effective liquid test kit for chlorine pools and hot tubs.

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Keep an Eye Out for More Mold

You’ll want to closely monitor your pool for a few days to a week after this cleaning process to make sure the white water mold doesn’t return.

During that time, run the pump as often and for as long as you can. Also, brush and vacuum the pool every other day, just to be sure.

How to Get Rid of White Water Mold in a Biguanide Pool

This process will be very similar to the one for a chlorine pool, just with different chemicals and a couple of slight adjustments.

1. Clean the Filter

If there’s white water mold in your pool, it’s probably in your filter too. So before you do anything else, clean the pool filter because you’ll need to use the filter later on to complete this process. It won’t be as effective if it’s infested with mold.

For this step, simply backwashing a sand or D.E. filter, or spraying the cartridge with a hose is enough, though you can also use filter cleaner if you want to.

2. Balance the Water

The most important level to balance is the pH. Make sure it’s between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.

3. Use an Oxidizer

Remember, biguanide sanitizer doesn’t oxidize contaminants, so you must supplement it with an oxidizer. Also, you can’t use regular shock—chlorine or non-chlorine—in a biguanide pool.

A regular dose won’t be enough to kill the white water mold. You’ll need to use a triple or even quadruple dose. That means adding 3 or 4 gallons of oxidizer per 10,000 gallons of water.

Baquacil Sanitizer

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4. Brush the Pool

Using a stiff pool brush, thoroughly brush the pool’s bottom and walls. The goal is to brush as much of the white water mold off the surface as possible.

Check in and around the skimmer and return jets, behind ladders, and in shady spots of your pool where mold likes to lurk.

5. Run the Pump

Overnight is good, but for 24 hours is even better. The idea is to get all the mold you brushed from the pool into the filter, so give it as much time as you can.

6. Brush the Pool Again

Think you got all the mold the first time around? Think again. You probably missed some, and if you leave it, everything you’re doing now will be for nothing because it’ll come right back.

So brush the sides and bottom of the pool again, and then let everything you brush up settle on the bottom.

7. Vacuum the Pool

An automatic pool cleaner won’t be enough for this job. You’ll need to manually vacuum the pool. Be sure to vacuum to waste.

Tip: Depending on how much mold and other debris you have to vacuum out of the pool, the water line may drop too low. Have a garden hose handy to refill as necessary.

8. Clean the Filter Again

This time, definitely use a filter cleaner for a sand or D.E. filter, or a chemical soak for a cartridge filter.

Baquacil Universal Filter Cleaner - 1/2 gal.

$59.99

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01/28/2023 04:34 am GMT

9. Test and Balance the Water

You can use test strips or a liquid test kit, or take a sample of pool water to your local pool store and have them test it for you. Make sure you bring the pH, alkalinity, and especially the chlorine back up to the right levels.

10. Add Algaecide

Important: You won’t do this step until 5 to 7 days after completing the cleaning process.

We don’t normally recommend using algaecide. But a biguanide algaecide does more than fight algae. It also works with the sanitizer and oxidizer to kill and prevent white water mold.

Add 4 ounces of biguanide algaecide for every 10,000 gallons of water in your pool. You can continue to do this once a week for regular maintenance, if you like.

Baquacil Performance Algaecide

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Note: Yes, you do need to repeat a couple of steps. That should be an indication of what a problem white water mold is, and how difficult it can be to get rid of it. Be patient and thorough, because repeating a couple of steps is better than repeating the entire process if any mold is left behind.

Keep an Eye Out for More Mold

You’ll want to closely monitor your pool for a few days to a week after this cleaning process to make sure the white water mold doesn’t return.

During that time, run the pump as often and for as long as you can. Also, brush and vacuum the pool every other day, just to be sure.

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How to Get Rid of Pink Slime in a Chlorine Pool

Unfortunately, pink bacteria is resistant to most of the chemicals you use to clean and sanitize your pool, even chlorine. So the usual cleaning processes and sanitizer doses just won’t do.

1. Clean the Filter

If there’s pink bacteria in your pool, it’s probably in your filter too. So before you do anything else, clean the pool filter because you’ll need to use the filter later on to complete this process.

For this step, simply backwashing a sand or D.E. filter, or spraying the cartridge with a hose is enough, though you can also use filter cleaner if you want to.

Our Top Pick

Pool Filter Cleaner

Spray or soak your pool filter in this powerful cleaner to make your filter perform like new!

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2. Balance the Water

The most important level to balance is the pH. Make sure it’s between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.

3. Turn off the Pump

You’ll be adding some chemicals to the water, and you don’t want them to circulate just yet.

4. Brush the Pool

Using a stiff pool brush, thoroughly brush the pool’s bottom and walls. The goal is to brush as much of the pink bacteria off the surface as possible.

Check in and around the skimmer and return jets, behind ladders, and in shady spots of your pool where bacteria likes to lurk.

5. Add Algaecide (Sort Of)

We’ve already established that pink slime is bacteria and not algae. Yet, because so many people refer to it as pink algae, some companies have created products to address the problem as it’s popularly known.

So look for an “algaecide” that specifies it’s for treating pink slim or pink bacteria. One such brand is Pink Treat.

United Chemicals Pink Pool Treat Algaecide

$25.48 ($0.80 / Ounce)

Helps control blooms of red and pink algae. Plus controls white slime, pink, and white water mold in pools treated with chlorine or bromine.

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01/27/2023 03:47 pm GMT

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package to add the appropriate amount for your pool’s volume.

6. Shock the Pool

A regular dose won’t be enough to kill the chemical-resistant pink bacteria. You’ll need to triple or even quadruple shock your pool with chlorine shock. That means adding 3 or 4 pounds of calcium hypochlorite shock per 10,000 gallons of water.

Test the water between each application of shock. The goal is to bring the chlorine level up to 5 parts per million (ppm).

Important: Remember, you need to shock your pool at dusk or night, so plan this process accordingly.

7. Take a Break

With the pump still off, let the pool sit overnight.

8. Vacuum the Pool

An automatic pool cleaner won’t be enough for this job. You’ll need to manually vacuum the pool. Be sure to vacuum to waste.

Tip: Don’t allow the water line to drop too low. Have a garden hose handy to refill as necessary.

9. Clean the Filter Again

This time, definitely use a filter cleaner for a sand or D.E. filter, or a chemical soak for a cartridge filter.

10. Run the Pump

Keep it on as you normally would.

11. Keep the Chlorine Level High

For about a week after this treatment, keep the chlorine level at 5 ppm. You’ll need to test the water every day to ensure you’re maintaining this level.

The easiest way to test that often is with test strips or a liquid test kit.

Our Top Pick

Test Strips for Pools and Hot Tubs

Tests for 7 important chemistries in seconds: Total Hardness, Total Chlorine, Total Bromine, Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid.

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12. Balance the Water

After a week, allow the chlorine level to drop back to normal, then balance the water as you normally do, bringing all levels to where they should be.

How to Get Rid of Pink Slime in a Biguanide Pool

This process will be very similar to the one for a chlorine pool, just with different chemicals and a couple of slight adjustments.

1. Clean the Filter

If there’s pink bacteria in your pool, it’s probably in your filter too. So before you do anything else, clean the pool filter because you’ll need to use the filter later on to complete this process.

For this step, simply backwashing a sand or D.E. filter, or spraying the cartridge with a hose is enough, though you can also use filter cleaner if you want to.

2. Balance the Water

The most important level to balance is the pH. Make sure it’s between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.

3. Turn off the Pump

You’ll be adding some chemicals to the water, and you don’t want them to circulate just yet.

4. Brush the Pool

Using a stiff pool brush, thoroughly brush the pool’s bottom and walls. The goal is to brush as much of the pink bacteria off the surface as possible.

Check in and around the skimmer and return jets, behind ladders, and in shady spots of your pool where bacteria likes to lurk.

Add Biguanide Algaecide

Remember, you cannot use regular algaecide—or the pink-specific “algaecide”—in a biguanide pool. Add 16 ounces of biguanide algaecide for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.

3. Add an Oxidizer

Remember, biguanide sanitizer doesn’t oxidize contaminants, so you must supplement it with an oxidizer. Also, you can’t use regular shock—chlorine or non-chlorine—in a biguanide pool.

A regular dose won’t be enough to kill the chemical-resistant pink bacteria. You’ll need to use a triple or even quadruple dose. That means adding 3 or 4 gallons of oxidizer per 10,000 gallons of water.

4. Raise the Sanitizer Level

The usual range for biguanide is 30 ppm to 50 ppm. To kill the pink bacteria, bring the biguanide level up to 50 ppm.

6. Take a Break

With the pump still off, let the pool sit overnight.

7. Vacuum the Pool

An automatic pool cleaner won’t be enough for this job. You’ll need to manually vacuum the pool. Be sure to vacuum to waste.

Tip: Don’t allow the water line to drop too low. Have a garden hose handy to refill as necessary.

Recheck the Sanitizer Level

Make sure the biguanide level is still at 50 ppm. If it’s fallen, add more biguanide to bring it back up.

8. Clean the Filter Again

This time, definitely use a filter cleaner for a sand or D.E. filter, or a chemical soak for a cartridge filter.

9. Run the Pump

Keep it running continuously until the water clears.

11. Balance the Water

Once the water clears, allow the biguanide level to drop back to within the normal range, then balance the water as you normally do, bringing all levels to where they should be.

Keep an Eye Out for More Bacteria

You’ll want to closely monitor your pool for a few days to a week after this cleaning process to make sure the pink bacteria doesn’t return.

During that time, run the pump as often and for as long as you can. Also, brush and vacuum the pool every other day, just to be sure.

How to Prevent White Water Mold and Pink Slime in Your Pool

Whew! After all that work, you’ll want to make sure you keep that mold and bacteria where it belongs—out of your pool!

The best ways to prevent either invasion are to keep your pool clean (and we mean clean), keep the water balanced (especially the pH and sanitizer levels), and shock regularly (or use an oxidizer for a biguanide pool).

No More Pink, White and Blue for You!

Just when you thought it was safe to go back into the water—it is! After putting in all that hard work, you deserve to enjoy your pool. Just stick to your pool care schedule to keep that white water mold away, and don’t allow the pink slime back in your pool. A little maintenance goes a long way to keeping your pool clean, clear, and swimmable.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Get Rid of White Water Mold and Pink Slime in a Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

Because mosquitoes love water, humidity, and flailing humans, your pool area is the perfect place for a mosquito buffet. Don’t put up a neon “All You Can Eat” sign. Protect your family’s health by taking a stand to keep mosquitoes away from your pool.

The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) worked together to create best practices for municipalities working on mosquito control.

They advise organizations to take an approach they call “Integrated Pest Management,” which includes removing mosquito habitats, controlling mosquitos at all life cycle stages, and using structural barriers. We’ll help you take the same professional approach in your own backyard.

Serve Mosquitoes an Eviction Notice

Of their four life cycle stages, mosquitos spend three of them in water. Mosquito eggs hatch, become larvae, then grow into pupae, all in water.

Mosquitoes don’t bite during those stages, but they will when they mature. You can minimize the adult population by taking steps to rid your yard of mosquito breeding sites.

Dump Standing Water

Inspect your yard after a rain, and you may be surprised to find places where water lingers. Mosquitoes grow from eggs to biters in about two weeks, but eggs can survive for months waiting for water to help them hatch.

Turn over buckets, recycle old tires, and fill in areas of your yard that stay damp. For things you can’t empty, such as wading pools and fountains, change the water weekly.

Also, mosquitoes can’t breed and develop in moving water, so if you have a fountain or other water feature, keeping it in motion will help prevent mosquitoes from moving in, getting comfy, and getting busy.

Use a Pool Cover

When your pool isn’t in use, keep it covered. Although it’s unlikely your pool water will ever be completely still, it can be inviting to mosquitoes, and look like a good place for them to lay their eggs. Yuck! Keeping your pool covered when you’re not using it can help keep your water bug free.

Of course you don’t want to pull out your safety cover every time you get out of the pool. What a pain that would be! Your best bet is actually a solar pool cover.

Not only will it cover most of your pool’s surface and make it unattractive to determined mosquitoes, it can actually help heat your pool, and reduce evaporation. This will also help you save money on energy, water, and chemicals. It’s a quadruple win!

Keep Up With Your Landscaping

Mosquitoes love piles of soggy leaves, rotting logs, and tall, wet grass. Mow regularly, so you won’t have lots of grass clippings to deal with. Rake and dispose of leaves, pine needles, or palm fronds. Rotting logs should also be disposed of.

Pay special attention to areas that stay moist, such as underneath decks. Keeping those areas free of organic debris allows the water to drain into the ground or evaporate into the air before it becomes home to mosquito larvae.

Fill Tree Holes

Do you have old, knotty trees on your property? Trees with holes provide homes for several types of animals and insects. But if your tree hole holds water, it may also be a place for mosquitoes to lay their eggs.

To safely eliminate this problem without killing your tree, fill it with expanding foam insulation. The foam will seal off the hole without adding weight to the tree trunk. You can cut off any excess foam that comes out of the hole. Expanding foam can even be sanded and painted to blend in or match decor.

Note: Only fill in a tree hole if you’ve verified that it holds water. Tree holes that do not hold water can be homes and nesting sites for birds and other wildlife.

Repair Septic Tank Cracks

If there’s a way for mosquitoes to get into your septic tank to lay their eggs, they will find it. Search for any place they could get in, such as uncovered ventilation pipes, cracks in the tank walls, and gaps in the septic tank cover.

Cover ventilation pipes with screen mesh tight enough to prevent insects from flying through. Use cement to repair your tank walls. Replace tank covers that don’t have a snug fit. If you have an abandoned septic tank on your property, consider filling it in to keep it from turning into a big mosquito condo unit.

Maintain Proper Pool Chemistry

If your pool is full of clean, balanced water that’s being turned over by your pump every day, it won’t be habitable for mosquitoes. Keep up with pool maintenance, such as cleaning your filter and skimmer regularly. Create and stick to a pool maintenance schedule to be sure your pool stays clean, clear, and pest free.

How to Kill the Bitey Buggers

Once you’ve gotten rid of mosquito habitats on your property, it’s time to get rid of the blood suckers. Well, only adult female mosquitoes feed on blood, but they need males to breed, so we’ll help you get rid of all the mosquitoes at every stage of their life cycle.

Larvicides

Different types of pesticides kill insects at various stages. Larvicides kill mosquito pupae and larvae. They come in several forms: liquid, tablets, pellets, granules, and briquettes, but all are used the same way.

You place the larvicide in water where bug babies are likely to be, such as gutters, septic tanks, on top of pool covers, and in non-chlorine swimming pools or wading pools. The EPA registers larvicides and maintains information regarding their safe use around people, pets, and in the environment.

Adulticides

Pesticides that kill fully grown mosquitoes–you know, the ones that bite–are known as adulticides. They come in several forms, including sprays, aerosols, foggers, and coils. Some of them can also be used indoors.

For your pool area, be sure to choose products made for outdoor application. Pay special attention to moist, dark areas where mosquitoes like to hang out. You’ll also want to avoid spraying adulticide near fruit, veggie gardens, or blooming plants that attract pollinators, such as bees and butterflies.

Home Mosquito Misters

Want to rid your property of adult insects without hiring a pro or constantly spraying by hand? Check out mosquito misters. For small areas, you can try inexpensive hanging lanterns that spray a pesticide mist.

To get more coverage over a larger area, consider installing a full system with a reservoir unit that feeds pesticide through tubing to misters all around your property. While these systems may be convenient, you have a few important considerations before you buy.

• The pesticides used in misters may not be regulated by the EPA, but are regulated by some states. Be sure to check your state’s regulations about the pesticide you plan to use.
• Although the pesticides have been tested for safety, mist travels. It can get on people, pets, and plants, or may accidentally be inhaled. The EPA cautions, “No pesticide should be regarded as 100% risk free.”
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter, and proceed cautiously with any pesticide use.

Natural Predators

Now that you’ve seen the recommendations and some warnings about pesticide application, you may be wondering about more natural ways to combat mosquitoes. One way to eradicate problem insects is by introducing some of their natural predators to the environment they’ve invaded—in this case, your yard.

Three of the most effective mosquito killers are bats, dragonflies, and mosquito fish. But just how effective might it be to use them in your fight against bloodsuckers?

Dragonflies

Harmless and beautiful, these flying insects are mosquito-eating machines. Attract them to your yard with a predator-free pond featuring tall plants, such as cattails or reeds.

They typically lay their eggs on the water, with some dragonflies inserting their eggs into the stems of water plants. You don’t need a huge pond to attract them, either. A simple water feature in a small garden will do it.

Mosquito dunks, a mosquito larvicide, can be used to keep the mosquitoes from breeding in your pond without harming dragonflies, honeybees, or other critters in your pond.

Mosquito Fish

Ever heard of these guys? They’re an excellent natural predator to add to your pond or garden water features. Some vector control agencies will even give them to you for free because controlling mosquitoes on your property helps everyone.

However, mosquito fish (also called Gambusia affinis, or simply Gambusia) are such vicious little larvae hunters that they can cause trouble when introduced into the wrong environment, so they’re regulated in some places. Be sure it’s legal in your state to keep them in your pond.

Bats

Animals whose diet consists of insects are called insectivores, and this includes some species of bats. Their diets consist mostly of moths, beetles, wasps, and to a lesser degree, mosquitoes.

While they may not be as effective against mosquitoes as other predators, some insectivorous bats can help keep your yard and pool area clear of several other pests.

Let’s be clear—we do not recommend that you actively try to attract bats to your yard. Bats carry and transmit some dangerous diseases, such as rabies and histoplasmosis.

However, if bats already live on or near your property, rather than trying to get rid of them, we recommend that you simply leave them be, and let them do their thing.

They’re nocturnal, which means they’ll be out at a time that you’re less likely to be in your pool. And their goal when they’re out and about is to eat bugs and stay as far away from humans as possible.

Leave them alone, and they’ll leave you alone—and do you a favor by eating about half their weight in insects every night.

Roll Up The Welcome Mat

Emptying buckets of rainwater and spraying for mosquitoes will help put a dent in their population on your property. However, you can take steps to make your whole swimming pool area less inviting for mosquitoes. So, roll up those soggy welcome mats and give those bugs the boot.

Pool Enclosures

If you’re a native Floridian, the sight of a screened in pool enclosure is nothing new to you, but for some folks, this product is totally foreign. It’s basically a big room made of mesh, glass, or fiberglass built around and over your pool area.

Pool enclosures help keep bugs, debris, and possibly some ultraviolet rays (depending on the enclosure’s material) out of your pool area. Some of them can also withstand high winds, which can protect your pool from evaporation.

But just like a screen door, one little rip in a mesh pool enclosure (or a gap in a glass or fiberglass one) can let all the bugs in. Inspect your pool enclosure often, and repair rips and gaps as soon as you find them.

Bug Nets and Curtains

Long, flowy drapes can not only enhance your pool area, they help keep the bugs away, too. Whether you choose fabric curtains or bug nets, surrounding your pool or patio area with these will help shelter you from mosquitoes. Hang curtains from your pergola, pavilion, or lanai roof. Use a track or tie-backs to open them during the day, then close by dusk when the mosquitoes come out to play.

Mosquito-Repelling Plants

Stinky feet and Limburger cheese are attractive to mosquitoes. Just as those odors draw the insects in, could the scent of certain plants repel them? Maybe.

Marigolds, basil, lavender, catnip, garlic, and a handful of other plants are said to repel mosquitoes, though it can be difficult to find any actual scientific evidence to support this claim. If nothing else, marigolds are pretty, lavender smells nice, you can use basil and garlic in the kitchen, and your kitty will love the catnip.

Yellow Bug Lights

Bulbs of a certain color are outside the spectrum of light bugs can see, so they don’t attract insects. While the science behind yellow bug lights makes sense, they’re not a perfect solution on their own.

A study by the American Association for the Advancement of Science found a warm temperature, standard LED attracted even fewer insects than a “bug bulb,” though both effectively reduced bug draw.

Fans

Have you heard that mosquitoes can’t fly through the wind created by a fan? It’s true! Even the American Mosquito Control Association recommends using a large fan near outdoor gatherings to keep the insects away. Apparently, mosquitoes are weak flyers, so they really can’t get past the breeze from the fan to bite you.

Personal Insect Repellent

Diethyltoluamide, better known as DEET, is probably the most effective mosquito repellent on the market today. In fact, it’s in all three of the top performing insect repellents from a study of bug spray protection times published in the New England Journal of Medicine.

Citronella is moderately effective compared to DEET, but isn’t one of the EPA-recommended substances for repelling mosquitoes. They suggest products containing DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus

You can also try products that contain IR3535 (a synthetic repellent found in products like OFF! or Avon Skin So Soft Bug Guard Plus), or 2-undecanone (a synthesized version of a compound found in rue, wild tomatoes, and several other plants), though they may not be as effective.

The EPA provides a handy tool for finding the best, EPA-registered mosquito repellents for you.

Citronella Products

You probably can recall barbecues from your childhood surrounded by citronella tiki torches or those familiar tin buckets with a stinky, yellow candle inside.

Even though citronella can be somewhat effective at preventing mosquito bites when applied topically, the candles have proven to be pretty worthless. A fan is much better investment for your patio than citronella torches and candles.

Mosquito Traps

Using a variety of attractants, such as carbon dioxide, and various methods of containment, mosquito traps lure, then kill insects. The insects are either sucked inside to die, trapped in a sticky fly-paper substance, or electrocuted.

While all of that sounds very final, the use of attractant can be problematic, attracting more mosquitoes than the trap can handle. Remember that while no single solution will solve your mosquito problem, mosquito traps may be a useful component of your integrated approach.

One Final Tip

Mosquitoes are drawn to certain smells, hormonal changes, and chemicals. One major draw for mosquitoes happens to be carbon dioxide.

If you really want to avoid being bitten, just hold your breath. Or at least, try not to breathe as much as the person next to you. Just kidding!

Stick with those EPA-registered repellents, put up some environmental barriers, and invite natural mosquito predators into your yard, and breathe easy knowing you and your family are a little safer from mosquito-borne diseases.

Happy (bug-free) Swimming!

The post How to Keep Mosquitoes Away From Your Pool appeared first on Swim University®.

It’s a common problem, especially when you open your pool in the spring, and it has a simple cause: there’s air in the pool pump. Luckily, it’s easy to troubleshoot and fix.

How Did Air Get in the Pool Pump?

Don’t worry, it’s not as serious a problem as it may sound. When you see air bubbles in the pool, it’s likely the air is entering via the suction side of your pool. You can check three places to determine how you’re getting air in the pool pump.

The Skimmer(s)

This is where water is supposed to enter the filtration system. But if there’s a problem with the skimmer, there’s probably a problem with air in the system.

Check the Pool’s Water Level

If your pool doesn’t have enough water, your skimmer(s) might be pulling in air, which is why you’ll see bubbles in the pool. Be sure the water level sits in the middle of the skimmer’s opening.

Check the Skimmer Basket

Make sure the skimmer baskets are not damaged and are seated properly to ensure good water suction.

Check the Weir

This is the skimmer flap or door on the front of the skimmer. It’s there to trap large debris from entering the filtration system. It also regulates water flow into the system. Sometimes it can get jammed, so make sure it’s moving freely.

Note: If the skimmer doesn’t have a weir, it’s a good idea to install one.

The Pump

If everything seems to be OK with the skimmer, the problem may be with the pump itself.

Check the Pump Lid

If it’s cracked, that’s the problem. However, the most common issue has to do with the lid’s O-ring.

Check the O-Ring

Turn the pump off, remove the lid, and check the O-ring for cracks. Just bend the O-ring between your fingers, around the whole O-ring, to check for any signs of cracking.

If it looks like the O-ring is splitting or dry-rotted, it needs to be replaced. If there are no signs of cracking, that’s a good thing. Before you put it back onto the lid, spray it with a Teflon-based O-ring lubricant to create a better seal, and help keep it from drying out.

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In the video below (at the 8:28 mark), I demonstrate how to check for cracks and apply lube to your pump lid O-ring.

Check the Pump Basket

Sometimes, if the basket is cracked, it won’t be seated correctly in the housing. Replace the broken filter basket, then make sure you clean it frequently and keep it properly seated so the lid seals properly.

Check the Drain Plugs

On the pump housing, you’ll find a drain plug, possibly two. Make sure the drain plugs are not loose or leaking. You can apply some pipe thread sealant tape, also called plumber’s tape, to the drain plug threads for a tighter seal.

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01/27/2023 11:55 pm GMT

Note: Remember, after you take it apart for any kind of maintenance, you may need to prime the pool pump before you start running it again. Also check out our other pool pump troubleshooting tips if you need more help.

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The Union(s)

If you have an inground pool, you might have some unions in the plumbing. These are threaded connectors between piping that will allow you to easily replace your filter equipment without having to cut any pipe.

Inside the union, you’ll find another O-ring to check for damage. If you see cracks in the O-ring, replace it. If not, make sure the O-ring is properly seated inside its groove. If the O-ring isn’t in its groove (and we all know how that feels, right?), it won’t create a proper seal and will allow air to get into the system, which will create air bubbles in the pool.

Leave the Air Outside Where It Belongs

Air can be a good thing. It’s nice in balloons, in scuba tanks, and inside airplanes. But it’s not so great to get air in a pool pump.

Keep an eye on those jets, and the minute you start seeing bubbles in the pool, troubleshoot and the get the air outta there.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Fix Air in a Pool Pump appeared first on Swim University®.

But what happens when you look down at the water and find sand in your pool? How the heck did that get there?! Where did it come from? How do you get it out? And most importantly, how do you keep it from happening again? Don’t worry, there’s no reason to panic. This is all simpler than it may seem.

Why Do I Have Sand in My Pool?

The first question to solve this mystery is an easy one to answer: Do you have a sand filter? If the answer is yes, well, there’s the problem.

Finding sand in your pool means one or more parts of your sand filter have broken, and the filter is no longer functioning the way it should.

Broken Filter Parts

When something cracks or breaks inside your sand filter, you’ll know it because that’s when you’ll start to see sand in your pool.

Standpipe

Inside a sand filter, a standpipe that runs down the center of the sand. The standpipe is made of rigid, strong plastic, but it’s still possible for it to crack at some point, which will mean sand in the pool. At the top, the pipe connected to the multiport valve. At the bottom, it’s connected to laterals.

What Are Laterals?

Inside a sand filter tank, water pours into the sand from the top. As it makes its way down through the sand, small debris and contaminants are filtered from the water. Once it reaches the bottom of the filter, the now-clean water is expelled back into the pool through the return jets.

Of course, you only want water to go into your pool—none of the sand from the filter. To make sure that happens, at the bottom of the filter is an array of eight to ten laterals, which acts as a sieve. Each lateral is full of tiny perforations large enough to allow water to pass through the filter, but not sand.

If, for some reason, one or more of the laterals crack, sand will easily pass through and be sent into your pool along with the clean water.

So now you actually have two problems—you need to fix the filter, and you need to get the sand out of your pool, in that order.

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How to Fix a Broken Standpipe or Laterals

You may never find out how it happened. Maybe the filter was moved, which shifted the standpipe, and under the heavy weight of the sand, cracked the laterals. Or maybe your filter is just old and the parts have worn out. No matter how it happened, you must fix it to prevent a sandbar from forming in your pool.

It’s more common for laterals to crack than the standpipe, but it’s a good idea to be ready to replace both just in case. The good thing is, you’ll follow the same process you use when you change the filter sand. You’ll just add one step: Replace the broken pieces inside your filter before you add the new sand.

Important: Remember to order a new standpipe and new laterals before you start this process. It’s a good idea to keep a few of those parts on hand so you’re ready for this kind of repair if it happens again.

Once you’ve replaced the broken parts and put your filter back together, you can move on to addressing the sand in your pool.

How to Remove Sand From Your Pool

There’s a little good news in all of this. If your sand filter breaks and starts dumping sand into the pool, it will be fairly concentrated below the pool returns. If you had millions of grains of sand dispersed through the water, it would be a much bigger headache!

1. Use a pool brush to push all the sand to one area, or at least to a few concentrated areas.
2. Set the filter’s multiport valve to “Filter.” You can vacuum the sand back into the filter.
3. Vacuum your pool manually, .
4. Test and balance the water with test strips or a liquid test kit, and add chemicals as necessary.

While it does take some elbow grease, fixing the problem of sand in your pool is actually pretty simple.

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What if I Don’t Have a Sand Filter?

Let’s say you find a substance in the pool that looks like sand, but can’t possibly be sand because you don’t have a sand filter or live anywhere near a beach. We have a bit of bad news for you. It may actually be yellow pool algae, also called mustard algae.

To test this, use a pool brush to push it around a little. If it disperses into a cloud, it’s probably algae, so you’ll need to follow the steps to get rid of mustard algae instead.

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Use the entire contents of the bag when opened. If any granules settle to the bottom of the pool use brush to disperse them. Add the right dosage of this product during evening hours while the filter pump is running.

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Keep the Sand Where it Belongs!

If you find sand in your pool, you’ll be able to remove it, fix your filter, and get back to enjoying a nice swim. Just remember, you’ll need to take care of the problem as soon as you notice it. The more sand you allow to get into your pool, the more work it’ll be to remove it.

Happy Swimming!

The post Why There’s Sand in Your Pool and How to Get it Out appeared first on Swim University®.

The key is to know how to troubleshoot your natural gas pool heater. You’ll get back to enjoying your pool more quickly, and you’ll save money if you don’t need to call in a professional.

Common Gas Pool Heater Problems

Knowing what to expect is half the battle. When you’re prepared for the possibilities, troubleshooting is much easier.

The Pilot Won’t Light

This is the first thing to check on any type of gas appliance. If the pilot won’t light, the gas pressure could be low, the air supply may be poor, or the heater may not be venting properly.

Check the gas pressure, and adjust it if necessary. Then check all the vents to make sure they’re not blocked. If any of them are, simply remove the blockage, and try lighting the pilot again.

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The Heater Won’t Ignite

This brings you back to the first troubleshooting option: check the pilot light to make sure it’s lit. Then make sure the pool heater is turned on, and the gas supply valve is in the on position.

If all of that is in order, then make sure the thermostat is set to a temperature higher than the water temperature.

The Heater Won’t Reach the Desired Temperature

In most cases, this just means the thermostat is set too low. However, it could be that your heater is too small for your pool, or you don’t have an adequate supply of gas to the heater.

In some cases, the high limit switch could be faulty, which may signal a natural gas pool heater to turn off before it’s heated the water to the desired temperature. On occasion, you may just be running the heater when it’s too cold outside. If this is the case, you’ll have to wait for warmer weather.

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The Heater Cycles on and Off

This is usually caused by a water flow issue. This could be due to a dirty filter, a closed valve, or even reversed water connections. Sometimes, this can be caused by the thermostat itself, and you may need to replace it.

The Heater Is Leaking

Over time, the chemicals you use in your pool to keep the water clean can damage the heat exchanger. This could also occur due to low winter temperatures. In some cases, you’ll need to replace the exchanger, but you could also just have a leaky gasket or a loose connection.

Check the gaskets and connections first before moving on to more expensive repairs.

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The Heater Leaks When Burner Is Lit

This is often caused by condensation that builds up when heating very cold water. However, it can also be a result of a damaged internal bypass or excessive water flow. You may need to install an external bypass to reduce the water flow into the gas pool heater.

The Heater is Black on Top or Expelling Dark Exhaust

These are both signs that a gas pool heater is experiencing a buildup of excessive heat while running. If this happens, double check the gas pressure and make sure there’s an adequate air supply and proper venting.

In some cases, this problem could be caused by down-drafting or wind. To fix this problem, you’ll need to install a high wind stack. Most pool heater manufacturers sell this after-market accessory.

The Heater is Rusted

The same chemicals that can damage the exhaust can also corrode your heater. If you find rust in your pool while the heater’s running, it’s a good bet it’s coming from the heater.

Replace any corroded parts in the heater, and keep your pool water balanced to help prevent corrosion.

Call a Pro

If all else fails, or you’re uncomfortable working with gas, don’t be afraid to call in a professional. Better to spend a little money than deal with damage or possibly even injury.

Warm up That Cool Pool

Swimming when the days are cooling down is one of the best things about having a pool. There’s nothing quite like jumping into that warm water on a brisk day.

If you have a gas pool heater, make sure it’s in the best working condition possible when temperatures start to fall. You’ll be able to extend pool season and enjoy it a little longer.

Happy Swimming!

The post How to Troubleshoot a Gas Pool Heater appeared first on Swim University®.